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Old 11-19-2015, 08:39 PM   #41
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La Center , Washington
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Originally Posted by Ynefel View Post
We just picked up our 2016 AS GT yesterday (Albany RV in NY) and drove it back to New Hampshire. We asked the dealer to ensure it was winterized, and indeed it does have a sticker that says it is winterized. However, we are novice enough RV'ers (just in 'pretirement ;-)' that I want to make sure it's ready for a NH winter. Note: It is going into modestly heated indoor storage with charging capacity.

Plus, does anyone have 'Master Checklist' for startup or shutdown coming out of or going into storage? I'm filling up a Microsoft OneNote Notebook with all the hints I'm getting here. A profound thanks for sharing your collective knowledge!

I'll be spending much of my free time trying to ingest all the information in the briefcase full of manuals!

Best,
-Robert

Welcome..
I have been doing pretty much the same thing (tracking all the relevant sites and articles I find with useful information) and would be willing to share with everyone. I like the idea of One Note too, I use it at work a lot
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:54 PM   #42
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Well, just got my first and only started reading the library that came with it. In Texas and this weekend it will get to 30 degrees. I stay in it full time and very concerned about something is going to break.
I will keep it nice inside and the sticker on the door stated it has been winterized. Can some one tell me what to do? I will start reading again but, now I don't know what to do.

Shaking in Texas / 25 cloud 2015 5 months old
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Old 11-20-2015, 01:48 PM   #43
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Well, just got my first and only started reading the library that came with it. In Texas and this weekend it will get to 30 degrees. I stay in it full time and very concerned about something is going to break.
I will keep it nice inside and the sticker on the door stated it has been winterized. Can some one tell me what to do? I will start reading again but, now I don't know what to do.

Shaking in Texas / 25 cloud 2015 5 months old
FWIW, you are in the Interstate section. Your profile suggests trailer.
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Old 12-06-2015, 12:22 PM   #44
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I went through the winterization for the first time this weekend and found the opearators manual helpful, but not well organized. So I made a cheat sheet after opimizing the steps for my purposes. Hope this is helpful for others.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Winterization Cheat Sheet.pdf (45.2 KB, 165 views)
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Old 12-07-2015, 09:23 AM   #45
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Good check sheet. I'm surprised that only two quarts were enuf to both prime the pump and fill the hose. It took me about two gallons.

What purpose does pouring antifreeze down the drains serve? There are no P-traps.

Maybe I missed it but did you either blow out the black tank flush line or introduce antifreeze in it?
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Old 12-07-2015, 10:16 AM   #46
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What purpose does pouring antifreeze down the drains serve? There are no P-traps.
The black tank and gray tank are never completely empty even after dumping, so pouring antifreeze down ONE drain and the toilet gets antifreeze into the waste tanks. But since the antifreeze is diluted by whatever was left over in the tank, it can be less effective. The final pre-winterization black and gray tank dump will be more effective if you elevate the passenger side of the van before and during dumping.

Fair warning, RV antifreeze mixed with some black tank treatments can form a thick, viscous goop (with a consistency similar to snot, ew!) that will not do your macerator pump any favors. Strongly advise flushing the black tank thoroughly to remove any trace of black tank treatment before adding antifreeze.
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Old 12-14-2015, 04:58 PM   #47
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Here's another take on winterizing.
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Old 10-17-2019, 11:08 PM   #48
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The Winnebago Era winterizing video strongly suggests NOT replacing the plastic drain plug with a copper plug because if pressure builds and needs to blow, the plastic plug allows for this where a copper plug will not blow. This could pressurize your water heater system making it blow somewhere else, which may be inside the coach. It might not seem like a big deal now, but it is made out of plastic for safety reasons.

Thank you for the pictures as they are helpful!
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Old 10-18-2019, 08:23 AM   #49
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In the thirty years I've been winterizing RVs, I've learned to abandon the "blow the lines out" step completely. It's a waste of time, and could still lead to the freezing and cracking of your toilet flush valve, water pump housing, and/or water pump strainer as it's difficult if not impossible to clear those of water by using compressed air.

Draining and bypassing the water heater, draining the tanks, and pumping the non-toxic pink antifreeze through ALL of the water lines, pump, and valves takes about ten minutes, completely clears the system of water that can freeze, and assures that your system is truly winterized. Further, it can be done "on the road" in about the same amount of time with no special equipment except the intake hose, when necessary.
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Old 10-24-2019, 02:27 PM   #50
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I have a 2020 interstate 19, I have question, after winterization , I should still be able to use the heat pump? As long as I do not use the plumbing system I should be able to use the shore power and use the heating system?
Am I correct? Apologize if itís a little off topic but still in the winterization. This is our first motor home and donít really want to mess it up.
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Old 10-27-2019, 06:39 AM   #51
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Can someone explain in more detail the valve behind the toilet?

We blew out the lines and ran RV antifreeze through the lines, but didn't touch that valve. What/why/???? Uh...huh?
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Old 10-27-2019, 07:32 AM   #52
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The valve behind the toilet is a shut-off for the fresh water used to flush the toilet. I start my winterizing by opening the two sets of drain valves and draining the hot water heater tank and draining the fresh water tank. I then apply ~40 psi of air to the fresh water fill fitting and then open all faucets and the outside shower and hold down on the toilet flush valve. I do this one valve at a time to maximize the air flow through each line. Leave each valve open until only air comes out. Don't forget to do the faucets in both the hot and cold position. I cycle through each valve a couple of ties in case draining one line puts water back into another line. Also apply air to the black tank flush fitting near the macerator hose reel. I then end by opening the low point drain valves again removing the hot water tank plug again - in case the air pressure has forced some water back into the hot water heater and low point drains. After getting water out of everything best as I can with air pressure I then put RV antifreeze in the tanks, macerator, and fresh water pump. I am sure that the above 2 hour process each year is overkill but beats having to spend far greater than 2 hours fixing a leak due to freezing.

I also drilled a 3/4" hole in the hard plastic pipe that is after the black and grey tank valves and before the macerator. This allows me to drain about 2 gallons of water that is otherwise trapped in that section of plumbing. I use a 3/4" rubber sink drain plug held in by a large hose clamp around the pipe.
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:30 AM   #53
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Titus, that is a good explanation and what I pieced together to do after reading most of the posts on winterizing. The manual version is not written well in my opinion. I questioned opening all the points for the water/air to go out basically at once as the manual seems to state, as it doesn't push the water and air to the points it needs to drain out of. As most of you have said, do one point after the other basically. That makes way more sense than the manual's explanation.

The only things I feel a bit unsure of is having gotten all the water beyond the lounge low points/water heater as I don't think I found the instructions to do one after the other as I was blowing it out. I think I followed the manual instructions to blow out the lines which wouldn't seem to push the water past the lounge low point drain valves in my estimation. I did use RV antifreeze though so I'm hoping that compensates for that possible oversight.

Did you have problems with the macerator freezing? When I was reading the manual instructions, I felt they were very light on protecting that system so I might do what you suggest and drill a hole in the line to make sure nothing is left to chance.
Ours will be stored inside a heated facility, but would like to use it yet on days below 32 degrees and if we happen to be lucky enough to head south for a trip yet this winter. Always better safe than sorry.
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:57 AM   #54
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Winterization Check List

FWIW, Got this from another contributor here on the forum.

Let the snow begin!!!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Winterization Cheat Sheet.pdf (45.2 KB, 16 views)
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Old 10-28-2019, 07:07 PM   #55
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To protect the macerator:

I pull the macerator hose all the way out and clamp it to the top of a stepladder. I then pour some RV antifreeze into the hose from the discharge end. I then turn the pump backwards with the screwdriver slot until I see pink liquid coming out the 3/4" hole that I drilled. I then put the rubber stopped back in the hole and secure it with the large hose clamp.

To protect the fresh water pump I put about 1 qt of pink stuff in the fresh water tank. I then disconnect the hose at the outlet of the pump and screw on a 18" section that I run into a bucket. I turn on the pump until I see pink stuff. This was I get antifreeze in the pump but nowhere else in the fresh water system. I leave my cheater hose in place over the winter. In the spring I drain the antifreeze out of the fresh water tank and put in fresh water. I then turn on the pump until I see clear water, remove the cheater line and reconnect the discharge line.

As stated above some of this is probably overkill but I can do it all in < 2 hours.
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Old 10-29-2019, 02:36 AM   #56
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Very through explanation and I bet you wouldn’t have much chance of having any damage with your procedure. Thanks for sharing, I’ll be following your lead! A couple dollars worth of RV antifreeze and a couple hours are certainly better than hundreds of dollars of damage and the time it would take to fix it.

This very early snowfall puts an emphasis on being prepared....
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