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Old 11-12-2014, 02:21 AM   #21
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Jerhofer,

Did you add that aluminum cover on top of the water heater drain plug? I didn't see one on my 2014.5.
Nope. That is the way I found it.
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:18 AM   #22
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Great job, guys!

Very little of this is relevant to my 06, however I have muddled thru and am hoping I got everything.

I think a video is an excellent, excellent idea.


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Old 11-14-2014, 08:20 AM   #23
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This has been so helpful to us. Thanks to everyone who has contributed. I love this forum! We live in NC and have owned our 2014.5 for a few months so winterizing is a new learning experience. I am wondering if there are levels of winterizing? We intend to use our rig during the winter months but we want to protect it during the occasional cold snaps. We have installed a 30amp connection to protect the batteries. Should we blow out the lines after each use? Any direction would be helpful from those of you who live in a similar climate.


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Old 11-14-2014, 12:52 PM   #24
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Don't forget that blowing out the lines still leaves water in the tank drain valves and macerator pump. Also you will need to blow out the black tank flush line because it has a check valve in it and could trap water in it.

As long as it doesn't get too cold, the tank heaters should protect the drain valves. But that still leaves the water in the macerator pump to have to be dealt with.

Also don't be surprised that after blowing out the lines, the water pump doesn't pick up its prime and provide pressure. If this happens, you'll need to force low pressure air into the water fill opening of the freshwater tank after filling the tank with water and turning the pump on. The easiest way to do this is to wrap a rag around the end of your air hose and jam it into the fill opening.
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:54 PM   #25
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I have also found that as a last step, I disconnect the water line from the discharge side of the water pump and run the pump for a few seconds an ounce of two of water will squirt out.


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Old 11-14-2014, 07:25 PM   #26
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Don't forget that blowing out the lines still leaves water in the tank drain valves and macerator pump. Also you will need to blow out the black tank flush line because it has a check valve in it and could trap water in it.
Last New Year's weekend, I was camping at Poverty Point State Park, Louisiana, with full hookups. The predicted low temperatures were above freezing, but the meteorologists got is soooo wrong! The second night, a blue norther blew in—the temperature unexpectedly dropped way below freezing and stayed that way for the rest of my trip. Between the tank heaters and the furnace, all of my plumbing stayed warm enough— EXCEPT my macerator pump, which froze. I had the good sense not to try to use it, and waited until I got back to the coast to dump my holding tanks. I consider myself lucky that the freezing didn't do any detectable damage to the pump. It could have been a lot worse. Thank goodness that whenever I run my pump, I run it dry for about half a minute once all the fluids have been pumped out. The amount of liquid left in the pump wasn't enough to expand and break anything.
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Old 11-16-2014, 05:14 PM   #27
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How to Winterize my Airstream Interstate?

Decided to install a bypass valve ahead of the pump on freshwater to make it possible to winterize with under 1 gal of antifreeze - I'm still blowing all the lines and draining the tanks, it just gets dang cold in Illinois so figure why not.

Without looking first I bought the standard Camco converter (diverted valve and hose) then went to install and found out pump has quick disconnects and it won't work.

Good news is all I need is the Flowjet quad port connector and a piece of hose.

Flojet 20381-009 Quad Port Fitting $5.89
Click image for larger version

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Just disconnect supply side and connect the hose, this should be included with van. EZ PZ.




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Old 11-16-2014, 06:51 PM   #28
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Decided to install a bypass valve ahead of the pump on freshwater to make it possible to winterize with under 1 gal of antifreeze - I'm still blowing all the lines and draining the tanks, it just gets dang cold in Illinois so figure why not.

Without looking first I bought the standard Camco converter (diverted valve and hose) then went to install and found out pump has quick disconnects and it won't work.

Good news is all I need is the Flowjet quad port connector and a piece of hose.

Flojet 20381-009 Quad Port Fitting $5.89
Attachment 226699

Just disconnect supply side and connect the hose, this should be included with van. EZ PZ.




Mike
Don't forget about the tank valves and the macerator pump.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:57 PM   #29
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Yep. No short cuts. This will save me from putting 2-3 gallons in freshwater tank like I did three times last year. Still haven't gotten the taste out of lines.

Will still dump 1/2 - 1 gal in black tank (and use it to flush with while limited use of toilet on return trip.


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Old 11-16-2014, 07:17 PM   #30
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I ordered the Quad Port fitting last week...used a hand pump to get the city water connection and the black tank flush port. Will use the new fitting to get the rest of the system next time I winterize. Now that it has been worked out, with a lot of help from this forum, I will have no qualms about winter camping.
I'll keep the lines below the coach filled with antifreeze, between dumps, and purge the rest when time comes. Combination of that and tank heaters, while camping, should keep me in business.....I hope.
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:26 PM   #31
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The basics of winterizing should be covered in Section G of your Airstream Interstate Owner's Manual, under the heading "Storage and Winterizing."
In step 6, "apply at least 60psi of air pressure at the city water inlet" you'll need a blowout plug for that....you should reclose the low-point drains and leave both faucets open halfway between hot and cold so that you can blow out the whole system, and not just the part of the system between the city inlet and the low point drains.
This is my first time to winterize and I tried to follow the manual for the compressor but need to go back and follow step 6 that Protagonist has listed.
However, I have a question, I think I got confused and turned the heater valve to the bypass position should I not have done that for the compressor method?

Appreciate any insight.
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:38 PM   #32
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This is my first time to winterize and I tried to follow the manual for the compressor but need to go back and follow step 6 that Protagonist has listed.
However, I have a question, I think I got confused and turned the heater valve to the bypass position should I not have done that for the compressor method?
You did just fine. With the valve in the bypass position compressed air doesn't pass through the water heater, but the water heater drains just fine by itself if you open both the drain plug and the pressure relief valve. There won't be enough water left in the heater to cause any damage.

And besides, the shape of the water heater means that even if you do try to blow it out, a small amount of water will still be trapped anyway. Six of one, half dozen of the other.
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:06 AM   #33
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We just picked up our 2016 AS GT yesterday (Albany RV in NY) and drove it back to New Hampshire. We asked the dealer to ensure it was winterized, and indeed it does have a sticker that says it is winterized. However, we are novice enough RV'ers (just in 'pretirement ;-)' that I want to make sure it's ready for a NH winter. Note: It is going into modestly heated indoor storage with charging capacity.

Plus, does anyone have 'Master Checklist' for startup or shutdown coming out of or going into storage? I'm filling up a Microsoft OneNote Notebook with all the hints I'm getting here. A profound thanks for sharing your collective knowledge!

I'll be spending much of my free time trying to ingest all the information in the briefcase full of manuals!

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Old 11-15-2015, 02:17 PM   #34
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Welcome to the Air Forums. This thread contains probably the closest thing to a checklist for winterizing as anything you'll find. You can also check your Airstream owner's manual for some information regarding winterizing.
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Old 11-15-2015, 07:52 PM   #35
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Welcome! From neighbors over in Mont Vernon NH
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Old 11-16-2015, 06:03 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Dalwyn View Post
This is my first time to winterize and I tried to follow the manual for the compressor but need to go back and follow step 6 that Protagonist has listed.
However, I have a question, I think I got confused and turned the heater valve to the bypass position should I not have done that for the compressor method?

Appreciate any insight.
Welcome to AirForums and Interstate ownership.

I have deep Mississippi roots, going back over 200 years.

A beautiful state.


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Old 11-16-2015, 05:07 PM   #37
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Sitting deep in the woods in deep East Texas, outside temp 75, inside the Interstate is 77, doors open, screens up, just hiked 5 miles, sweating like a dog and reading a winterizing thread.
:-)

Looking forward to seeing an instructional append for the T1N, or, maybe I will write one if hell ever decides to freeze over here. We never winterized last year, didn't even come close. One of the Gulf Coast's short list of benefits.
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Old 11-16-2015, 08:35 PM   #38
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Forgotten valve

Our 2013 AI Ext come from cold country and the previous owner forgot the valve on the back of the commode.
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Old 11-17-2015, 08:58 AM   #39
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Our 2013 AI Ext come from cold country and the previous owner forgot the valve on the back of the commode.

Yes - that one is a "got ya" item. It got me last winter so this year I'll be more diligent. I winterize about twice each season. Once now as the temps start to get below freezing here in Maryland. Then again after we return from our winter trip to Florida.


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Old 11-17-2015, 03:43 PM   #40
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In step 6, "apply at least 60psi of air pressure at the city water inlet" you'll need a blowout plug for that. I use a Camco 36153 brass blowout plug. But you should reclose the low-point drains and leave both faucets open halfway between hot and cold so that you can blow out the whole system, and not just the part of the system between the city inlet and the low point drains.
I want to thank Protagonist for this step. I had first followed all the steps in the manual and was concerned when I did not get any water out of the sink faucet, but that was what the steps said to do. I went back after I read Protagonist's steps and was amazed at the water that came out of the sink faucet.
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