How to access house batteries

[CharlieOscar]

Originally Posted by Titus

I too would bet that poor charging routine by the previous owner and/or dealer ruined the house batteries. But it seems odd that you would notice that failure in 37 minutes. In saying that I am assuming that you were still driving at the 37 minute mark, and if that is the case the Sprinter alternator should have charged the house batteries via the BIM (battery isolation manager). You might notice a failure of the house battery system 37 minutes after you had stopped driving (ie. stopped charging), but it seems that it would take a lot of load to have them wiped out after 37 minutes. I am curious to know how you detected the 'electric started to fail' as that might provide some evidence of the source of the problem.

Just to clarify, basically when we left the dealer we unplugged from shore power. Had the TV's for the kids on. Stopped at Walmart to pick up a blueray and the step wouldnt go back in until I started the van (first indication). So came back into van side door not using the step in case step was broken.

Next tried to play Blu-ray and nothing. Checked charger controller which showed a "0A" fault code.

Drove to destination. Plugged into shore power and it wouldn't work. Started generator and got power to turn on heater but not the rest of house stuff. Battery progressively drained to less than 6V despite generator running and progressively died.

It was my early suspician that batteries were bad. My hope was the controller didn't cause it. But looking like that could be a contributing factor.

[CharlieOscar]

Originally Posted by Tronadora

The chassis is a 2014.5. My Grand Tour is not a Twin model, so maybe that's relevant for the batteries being underneath. I also have the hidden trunk compartment. I can pack a boatload of stuff, including all my wife's thread crochet supplies... yikes.

I have the trunk compartment too. Mine is the lounge EXT with the 9th seat conversion.

[Mansderm161]

Wow... you have a 2015, I have a 2018 and really believe I did "everything by the book" to preserve house batteries and yet, I could not go 18 hours, unplugged, with only fridge on and not have severe drain on the batteries. And with original batteries, they say one severe drain will damage them to point they will not hold a charge. I just got rid of mine, as I don't think they would have lasted another year. So if you have originals, there's a good possibility without extreme TLC, they are shot, in my opinion.

[CharlieOscar]

Originally Posted by Pahaska

Turning the disconnect off is safe any time. Turning it on with AC power present risks damage to the Magnum. There were some threads some time back that addressed this. It is a risk, not a certainty, that the Magnum can be damaged. Best to never turn on the disconnect when plugged in or generator running.

In my case, it cost me a Magnum.

I might add. I now have a manual switch replacing the original disconnect solenoid. I have no risk of damage.

So an update and newbie question. The magnum charger had a bad "board" and so needed replacement. The batteries were also bad and the technician suspects that had been frozen at some point (I did pick it up in zero degree weather). Those are also replaced.

He also indicated that the rear main disconnect works but the solenoid to the front disconnect does not work and needs to be replaced. He could not find this part.

I am going to use the AI as it is now without the use of the front switch.

What is the proper sequence of use for plugging into shore power with just using the rear switch?

Additionally my solar panel is dead as I suspected. I will plan to replace that with non-flexible panel when my warranty from dealer runs out.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by CharlieOscar

So an update and newbie question. The magnum charger had a bad "board" and so needed replacement. The batteries were also bad and the technician suspects that had been frozen at some point (I did pick it up in zero degree weather). Those are also replaced.

He also indicated that the rear main disconnect works but the solenoid to the front disconnect does not work and needs to be replaced. He could not find this part.

I am going to use the AI as it is now without the use of the front switch.

What is the proper sequence of use for plugging into shore power with just using the rear switch?

Additionally my solar panel is dead as I suspected. I will plan to replace that with non-flexible panel when my warranty from dealer runs out.

CHARLIEOSCAR - here's my take on plugging into shore power and turning on front switch - I have a Progressive EMS PT30X direct wired between my shore outlet and the ATS inside unit. Before I plug in, my front batt disconnect switch is almost always already on. Then I plug into shore power. The built-in EMS delay allows the physical connection without it electrically passing shore power to the house until after all the EMS testing and delay has completed. Then, the EMS takes care of passing power through without me worrying about physical arching.

FYI - on my 2018, there is an ACE (AC Enabled sense line). It's function is to disconnect inverter from house batts when there is no AC. I believe this only started in 2018. So in my unit, my Magnum is always connected to house batts provided AC is detected. So the risk/issue of damaging Magnum when turn on battery disconnect switch while connected to shore power, does not really exist since it already has a load everytime AC is sensed (regardless of batery disconnect switch is on/off). I still do not fully comprehend why on the older units, the risk exists to the Magnum. Maybe JOHN can explain further. I did not follow that issue since it had no bearing on how my unit is wired.

[CharlieOscar]

Ok, got the AI back finally. The front disconnect switch is not working due to death flaw that I know I have to fix. In the meanwhile please help me understand the user manual description of the rear disconnect switch. Manual says, ON, OFF, or disable positions? Is there really only two positions. If so which is in the ON versus OFF position? This position shown on manual is this intended to show the OFF position? Thanks.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by CharlieOscar

Ok, got the AI back finally. The front disconnect switch is not working due to death flaw that I know I have to fix. In the meanwhile please help me understand the user manual description of the rear disconnect switch. Manual says, ON, OFF, or disable positions? Is there really only two positions. If so which is in the ON versus OFF position? This position shown on manual is this intended to show the OFF position? Thanks.

CHARLIEOSCAR - I think I understand your question, but I do still have some confusion about how you worded it and how your manual (vs. mine describes it). So I just answer you with how I treat this switch.

1. The Manual Disconnect is exactly that. OFF disconnects your Ckt Brkrs from batts. Exceptions are noted in manual. ON connects them back.

2. The DISABLE function is achieved by going past either the ON or the OFF position until a distinct click is heard. The DISABLE OFF is used so that somebody does not accidentally hit the switch up front and connect the batts while the rig is in storage and drain batts. The DISABLE ON is used so that if you are camped and using your batts, someone does not accidentally disconnect your batts while say it is 4th down and 4 inches with 4secs. left in 4th qtr. in a tied game during Superbowl. So the DISABLE function just completely ignores what position the front switch is on. It locks the switch in the chosen mode ON or OFF.

3. Direction - OFF is CCW, ON is CW, DISABLE OFF is past OFF, DISABLE ON is past ON.

4. So in reality, there are 4 positions - OFF, ON, DISABLE OFF, DISABLE ON.

PS - just noticed, as the decal says - it is a Manual Override (of front switch with a lock function). The position in the pic in the manual has no bearing on whic of the 4 modes it is currently . Physically, the switch could have been installed & oriented a few degrees CW or CCW of top dead center orientation. You just need to see how far it goes CW and CCW.

[Titus]

Alex
Very interesting explanation of the four positions It makes me curious about mine, and I will check it when I get Titus out of storage. I never use my battery disconnect switch as I got lucky when Airstream rolled the dice to determine how to wire mine. When I am careful about keeping everything in the off position when not being used I have no parasitic losses that are not overcome by my now-200W of solar. I grew up tent camping, totaling over a year in tents in my younger days. So any and all power beyond a flashlight is a luxury for me, and thus conservation of that power comes naturally.