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Old 08-24-2021, 04:22 PM   #1
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Gray Tank :How to manually empty?

2018 AI & macerator is working, black tank empties, gray tank is full but won’t open with the switch. Had this problem before & Colonial Airstream was supposed to have fixed it. This is the second time out since then 🤬.
Airstream “ service says I can open tank manually but could not tell me exactly where that is. I don’t want to get under the van and open the wrong thing!
Anyone have pic or diagram of exactly what I am looking for and where it is? I already have water coming up into shower . Also, once I find it, do I open and then start macerator or will tank just empty from gravity?
Thanks
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Old 08-24-2021, 04:29 PM   #2
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Tank contents will flow to macerator by gravity.

There are two sewage valves. The black tank piping goes up into the black tank above the floor and is easy to identify. The gray piping goes to a tank suspended below the van floor. You can see the motor and the linkage to the valve.
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Old 08-24-2021, 04:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
Tank contents will flow to macerator by gravity.



There are two sewage valves. The black tank piping goes up into the black tank above the floor and is easy to identify. The gray piping goes to a tank suspended below the van floor. You can see the motor and the linkage to the valve.


So the valve to open gray tank is under the van and on the macerator side of the van. I should see it crawling under macerator? And is it a c-clamp? Thank you
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Old 08-24-2021, 04:50 PM   #4
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You say the black tank worked? Did the black valve close all the way? The gray valve will not operate unless the black valve is totally closed.

If the black valve is totally closed, do the following:

Get someone to operate the black tank switch while you get your head under the coach and watch. You will be able to see the black valve open and close. Once you understand how the valves work and which valve is which, you can open the gray valve by pushing on the gray valve linkage. It takes some pressure since you have to spin the motor and it is geared.
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Old 08-24-2021, 04:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
You say the black tank worked? Did the black valve close all the way? The gray valve will not operate unless the black valve is totally closed.



If the black valve is totally closed, do the following:



Get someone to operate the black tank switch while you get your head under the coach and watch. You will be able to see the black valve open and close. Once you understand how the valves work and which valve is which, you can open the gray valve by pushing on the gray valve linkage. It takes some pressure since you have to spin the motor and it is geared.


Ok, that makes sense. Thank you.
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Old 08-25-2021, 06:33 AM   #6
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Per the instructions I down-loaded, you cannot (or at least should not?) force the valve open with the motor connected. Instructions to manually open the valve are to remove the bolts on the side opposite that where the control rod emerges. These are the bolts that are go through the cover plate that the wiring passes through. (5/32" allen wrench in the bolt head, 3/8" open end wrench on the nut.) This (apparently) disconnects the connection to the motor, allowing the valve to be moved manually. I have not tried it, but identified bolt sizes while it sat in the driveway in case I needed to do it on the road.

I don't know how one reconnects the motor - I'd guess you push the valve back to the position it was when you removed the screws and then wiggle it a bit until the bolts slip back through.

Please post a reply if you try this and it actually works as instructed.
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Old 08-25-2021, 07:11 AM   #7
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Just a thought: TP jammed in the black tank valve could easily prevent it from closing properly, and that could in turn prevent the grey tank valve from opening.
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Old 08-25-2021, 08:37 AM   #8
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Following up on Rocinante's point. Some Model Year's have an interlock requiring one valve to shut before the other can open. Other Model Year's do non have this.
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Old 08-25-2021, 09:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
Per the instructions I down-loaded, you cannot (or at least should not?) force the valve open with the motor connected. Instructions to manually open the valve are to remove the bolts on the side opposite that where the control rod emerges. These are the bolts that are go through the cover plate that the wiring passes through. (5/32" allen wrench in the bolt head, 3/8" open end wrench on the nut.) This (apparently) disconnects the connection to the motor, allowing the valve to be moved manually. I have not tried it, but identified bolt sizes while it sat in the driveway in case I needed to do it on the road.

I don't know how one reconnects the motor - I'd guess you push the valve back to the position it was when you removed the screws and then wiggle it a bit until the bolts slip back through.

Please post a reply if you try this and it actually works as instructed.


Thank you. I will post results of my efforts.
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Old 08-25-2021, 09:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocinante View Post
Just a thought: TP jammed in the black tank valve could easily prevent it from closing properly, and that could in turn prevent the grey tank valve from opening.


After reading your reply, I thought about how the black tank sounds when I close it. It seems fine but there’s no sort of click at the end . Hmmmm
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Old 08-25-2021, 10:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carpenc View Post
After reading your reply, I thought about how the black tank sounds when I close it. It seems fine but there’s no sort of click at the end . Hmmmm
Is the indicator light on the black tank switch going out when you close the valve?
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Old 08-25-2021, 01:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Is the indicator light on the black tank switch going out when you close the valve?


No, it doesn’t work and neither does the light on the gray tank switch. Neither has worked for months. And I have checked the fuses. They are good.
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Old 08-25-2021, 02:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carpenc View Post
No, it doesn’t work and neither does the light on the gray tank switch. Neither has worked for months. And I have checked the fuses. They are good.
Sounds like you might have issues in the relay system that interfaces the black and gray tank valves. Attached photo is wiring mess on backside of the dump valve switch panel. Recommend you pull it out and make sure all those connector are firmly in place. As I recall it is only held in place by four screws.

Hope this helps,
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Old 08-25-2021, 03:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
Per the instructions I down-loaded, you cannot (or at least should not?) force the valve open with the motor connected. Instructions to manually open the valve are to remove the bolts on the side opposite that where the control rod emerges. These are the bolts that are go through the cover plate that the wiring passes through. (5/32" allen wrench in the bolt head, 3/8" open end wrench on the nut.) This (apparently) disconnects the connection to the motor, allowing the valve to be moved manually. I have not tried it, but identified bolt sizes while it sat in the driveway in case I needed to do it on the road.

I don't know how one reconnects the motor - I'd guess you push the valve back to the position it was when you removed the screws and then wiggle it a bit until the bolts slip back through.

Please post a reply if you try this and it actually works as instructed.


Thanks Titus. Where did you find such detailed instructions? When I called Airstream “Support” months ago about this issue, they never mentioned disconnecting anything first. But then they just sent me the AI manual which says very little.
I’m still trying to figure out which valve is the gray tank valve as there are a few of those “drain motors” under the van— though I do now know which one is the black valve so I’ve pared it down.
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Old 08-25-2021, 03:38 PM   #15
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I found the instructions by Googling the name of the company I found on the sticker on the valve. I will scan and send them to you if you want to PM me with your e-mail address.
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Old 08-26-2021, 09:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
I found the instructions by Googling the name of the company I found on the sticker on the valve. I will scan and send them to you if you want to PM me with your e-mail address.
Please post those instructions in this thread for others who might need them.
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Old 08-26-2021, 11:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxster1971 View Post
Sounds like you might have issues in the relay system that interfaces the black and gray tank valves. Attached photo is wiring mess on backside of the dump valve switch panel. Recommend you pull it out and make sure all those connector are firmly in place. As I recall it is only held in place by four screws.



Hope this helps,


Thank you Boxster, at least I don’t have to get under the van to check that panel out. It is too hot for that here.
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Old 08-26-2021, 11:44 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxster1971 View Post
Please post those instructions in this thread for others who might need them.


My email is carpenc@mac.com
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Old 08-26-2021, 02:55 PM   #19
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Sorry Mike, but I have been unable to figure out how to post anything - pictures or files. I can send them to you as a pdf file if you are able to post them.
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Old 08-27-2021, 01:46 PM   #20
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UPDATE:GrayTank: How to

Thanks for all of the help everyone. I learned a lot but unfortunately the problem persists as even my strong neighbor could not pull the clamp on the Auto Drain on the gray tank. Posting a few pics in case one of you catches something amiss.
Tests done/checks:
—black tank IS closing completely ( which could cause gray to fail to open)
—Fuses are good
—wiring behind the tank open/close /power panel APPEARS to be intact and joints checked to ensure complete connection
Gray tank Auto Drain motor makes no sound when button pressed and am unable to pull clamp out manually.
Seems like I need to replace the auto drain “box” ?
Thoughts welcome .
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