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Old 09-20-2020, 12:23 AM   #1
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Gray Tank Full

My Gray Tank is full and when I go to pump out nothing comes from the hose. However, the Black side pumps out just fine. I am away from gone and it is an issue as the kitchen sink is now full. I guess I am lucky that it is not the Black Tank!

Thanks in Advance !
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Old 09-20-2020, 06:53 AM   #2
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My Gray Tank is full and when I go to pump out nothing comes from the hose. However, the Black side pumps out just fine. I am away from gone and it is an issue as the kitchen sink is now full. I guess I am lucky that it is not the Black Tank!

Thanks in Advance !
Are you sure it’s not a clogged trap in the sink? Does the bathroom sink drain? If the grey tank is full typically it will start to come out of the shower drain first.

The only thing I can think of is the grey tank dump valve is broken internally if the tank truly is full.
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Old 09-20-2020, 08:04 AM   #3
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Your tank valve controls are switches, not a pull lever, and you have a macerator, right? Assuming this is correct and that the black tank is draining via the macerator:

(1) Per daleyocum, check to see whether the sink drain is clogged and look in the shower to see whether grey water has intruded there. If the shower is dry and water goes down the drain when you pour a cup of water into the shower, I vote for a sink trap clog. That's likely your best and cheapest option, so let's hope for that.
(2) It's probably not a fuse, but just in case the two tank switches are on different fuses, make sure no DC fuse has popped and that the grey tank valve switch has power.
(3) It could be that your gray tank valve has simply failed and requires replacement. this is the least desirable and most expensive option, but hey, as you said, at least it's not the black tank valve.

Here's hoping for a clogged sink!
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Old 09-20-2020, 04:50 PM   #4
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These relays which are behind the valve switches sometimes go bad. I am not sure what coach you have. I have a 2013 ext.
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Old 09-20-2020, 04:53 PM   #5
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These relays which are behind the valve switches sometimes go bad. I am not sure what coach you have. I have a 2013 ext.
Thanks for that, as I was not aware of this possibility. That should be relatively inexpensive to replace vs. a valve.
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Old 09-21-2020, 06:13 AM   #6
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There is one relay for each valve. I took the one that was working and plugged it in to the wires for the one that wasn’t working to test them. As it turned out I think the plug on the “bad” valve relay was just loose since they both worked after that.

I found the relays on Amazon. They are inexpensive and I carry a couple for spares.
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Old 09-21-2020, 10:45 AM   #7
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Sweet! Would you mind posting a link to those relays? I'd like to have a couple of those on hand as well. Oh, and a photo showing where the relays are so I can find them more easily would be super wonderful.
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Old 09-21-2020, 11:15 AM   #8
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I second the request for the link to the relays... was not aware it had those... might as well carry a few spares as well.

EDIT: Found them on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-SARL-11...-/223629598671
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Old 09-21-2020, 05:32 PM   #9
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It looks like eBay is your best bet. I checked amazon but they are out of stock and don’t know when they will be restocked.
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:40 PM   #10
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Thanks guys. I ordered a couple as well.
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Old 09-21-2020, 11:17 PM   #11
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Having a spare is always a good idea. In case you don’t, those are just standard 40amp automotive relays that any auto parts store will stock. They don’t have to be that particular vendor.
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Old 09-22-2020, 06:16 AM   #12
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Would someone please post saying exactly where these relays can be found? Photos are best, but general location is good too. I have a strong suspicion we'll need to replace at least one of these. Sounds like once I know where they are, it's an easy replacement? Thank you!
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Old 09-22-2020, 06:57 AM   #13
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On mine they are on the front slope of the drivers side rear wheel-well, near the wall of the van. I can get to them by half-way raising the side seat and/or reaching though wheel-well cabinet door on the aisle. Getting a spare is not a bad idea, but my plan was to swap wires if (when?) one fails during a trip to the dump station. Presuming of course that both do not fail at the same time.
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Old 09-22-2020, 03:02 PM   #14
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Thanks for that information, much appreciated. We were fortunate enough to have a successful "first dump" with our 2016 machine today, so for the moment we're in good shape. that said, I'm going on a wumpus hunt to figure out where our relays are so I can replace them if/when needed, and will arrange to have one or two of them on hand as spares.
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Old 09-22-2020, 03:23 PM   #15
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I accessed my relays by taking the plate out that holds the dump valve switches & macerator switch. 4 screws and the plate comes out. The relays are tucked back in there.
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Old 09-22-2020, 08:14 PM   #16
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That's great, thanks for sharing that info.


Now, on to the next challenge. Our macerator hose reel unwinds just fine, but it seems a bit slow and cranky on the rewind. (sigh) Maybe a bit of lubricant is all it needs, will have to crawl under there and take a look.
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Old 09-27-2020, 11:27 AM   #17
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You have to “guide” the hose as it rewinds, back and forth sideways. It will bind otherwise - and blow the fuse in a hurry.
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Old 09-27-2020, 02:27 PM   #18
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Our macerator hose reel unwinds just fine, but it seems a bit slow and cranky on the rewind.
Pretend you are the level wind on a fishing reel and move the hose side to side as it retracts. Stop when the nozzle gets close and tuck the nozzle in. Then take up the last slack.

Extend the hose carefully all the way. Then retract it about a turn. Wrap some tape around the hose or mark it indelibly so that you know when to stop extending. That avoids kinking the hose with probable damage.
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