Generator positive wire

[Heckler56]

I am in the middle of upgrading to lithium batteries on my 2016 GT Ext and bringing them in the coach.
How have others wired the generator positive wire? Did you use an enclosed buss bar under the vehicle and run a wire up into the coach to hook to the batteries? Or run a new wire the right length from the generator to the batteries?

[Schmitte]

I ran a new wire up into the coach

[Heckler56]

Originally Posted by Schmitte

I ran a new wire up into the coach

All the way from inside the generator?

[Schmitte]

Yes, I ran the positive wire for starting the generator back into the coach to a post thermal near the inverter. I use my van year round and didn’t want any connections under the van to corrode from winter salt

[Titus]

The only under-the-van connections for my generator are on the lower, front, curb-side corner. I took the wires off a couple of years ago to clean them. Very dirty and corroded with pebbles stuck between the wiring and the frame. There was so much debris that I'm surprised the positive post didn't short to ground - especially when the gunk was wet. Like Schmitte I wouldn't want to have another connection exposed to that environment. Not sure why you would consider rewiring the generator when switching to lithium.

[Heckler56]

[QUOTE=Titus;2385341 Not sure why you would consider rewiring the generator when switching to lithium.[/QUOTE]

I have no sham in admitting I am in uncharted territory trying to upgrade the solar and batteries. Not sure if you mean that I would “not use the generator “ going forward now that I am going with a lithium set up? If so, I am only using two lithium batteries. If I want to run the AC I will still need the generator. At this point the generator is the last place I have not been in.

Since I am moving the batteries inside but on the opposite side of the vehicle I was hoping to reuse some wiring and not have to yank out all of the old wiring feeding the original battery bank underneath.

[Heckler56]

Originally Posted by Schmitte

I ran a new wire up into the coach

Did you run it to battery bank direct or a buss after your class t fuse block?

[Titus]

Sorry for the confusion. I hadn't thought about you changing battery location, which would lead to a re-wire. But I don't see any reason for the re-wire to include a third connection anywhere - especially underneath and exposed to debris.

[Heckler56]

Originally Posted by Titus

Sorry for the confusion. I hadn't thought about you changing battery location, which would lead to a re-wire. But I don't see any reason for the re-wire to include a third connection anywhere - especially underneath and exposed to debris.

The third connection was a consideration to get this on the road by next week. Road race in WI I cannot miss. Shopping around there is a problem with part shortages. Went into my local West Marine yesterday and thought they were going out of business. Amazon is also seriously delayed.

[Schmitte]

Originally Posted by Heckler56

Did you run it to battery bank direct or a buss after your class t fuse block?

I ran it to a buss terminal under the driver side jump seat where all the electrical stuff is. You will need some ‘great stuff’ foam to re-seal the hole in the floor under the cup holder

[rowiebowie]

I also moved my lithium batteries inside during my upgrade. After the initial wiring, the generator would not start. No power was getting to gen starter.

I moved all wiring from the old Isolator in favor of a new DC to DC charger between my alternator and new lithium coach batteries. So I disconnected the old coach battery connection (from the top left of the Isolator) thinking I did not need it and not knowing it somehow sent power back to my generator starter.

I connected the old coach battery cable positive (previously on the top left of the Isolator) to a positive wire from the new lithium. The generator now starts and runs like before.



Note: Previously, upon removing my old batteries from the outside battery compartment, I insulated the old cable-lug ends in with shrink-tubbing to eliminate the chance of shorts or grounds.


Here is what my Isolator looks like in case it is still the model used in your '2016.