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Old 05-12-2018, 07:39 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by sheakev View Post
One note, they only had the 36" wide roll thus a small part wasn't going to be covered. I opted to go all the way down to the bottom and leave a little gap on the outside top portion of the window. That portion is within the tinted eyebrow and doesn't affect my line of sight.
I know I have read it before but never paid attention to this 36" roll CRYSTALLINE limitation, until now, after reading yours & INTERBLOG's post. As excellent a product that CRYSTALLINE is, why is their roll only 36" ? I know it did not affect INTERBLOG's T1N coz her windshield is 35" , but NCV3's have over 40". After reading this, I am definitely glad I used LLUMAR on my AI. Full disclosure - I still would have preferred CR70 for my AI (if a local dealer with high bay existed) and I have CR70 on my other truck already (nornal height windshield). So, I am able to compare both side by side. LLUMAR AIR80 covers my entire windshield with 1 sheet. For the prices spent on LLUMAR AIR80/90 and/or CRYSTALLINE 70/90, not being able to cover the entire windshield with 1 sheet is just unacceptable IMHO. Let me ask it another way, would anyone want a left & right half of their windshield tint with a visible seam/cut vertically down the middle of windshield coz the sheet won't span the full width? I doubt it. So why would a horizontal seam be acceptable? If it was only a $100 product, ok I may forgive it 😉 I have residential tint in my house with massive picture windows double the height & width of the AI and they used 1 sheet for those 🤤
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Old 05-12-2018, 08:21 PM   #82
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I suspect that the 36 inch limitation is a result of the technology. Itís so hard and so expensive to manufacture the stuff that the cost-benefit analysis just didnít work for a larger production line. That would be my bet.

Itís especially unfortunate given that the only option is to consume 2x if a customer wants the same product on the eyebrow. Initially before we discovered we didnít need this, my husband asked if they could turn the sheet 90 degrees and do a vertical seam, which would consume one extra foot instead of five to six ( such a seam would be behind the rear camera monitor and we would not see it anyway). No dice. The material is engineered to shrink only one way. If itís up-ended, it wonít shrink properly.
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Old 05-13-2018, 06:00 AM   #83
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Not being able to do it with a single sheet for the newer AI, not really an issue... I will try to get photos of mine. The strip on top takes care of it and there is nothing in the line of sight that would bother the passenger or driver.

So outside of the cost or wasted material, it all works well.
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Old 05-13-2018, 06:16 AM   #84
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BTW, there are a couple of comments above about the vehicle needing to fit inside a shop in order to do the CR-70. I think I read that indoor application is stipulated by 3M, for cleanliness reasons.

Our Interstate's job was done outside. I was able to poke the nose of the van under one of their canopies, but it didn't come close to fitting into any enclosure. Poking the nose did not achieve much. It was an unusually windy day and the wind blew right through the canopy.

The skill of the applicator is probably the quality-determining factor. My husband had his daily driver tinted at another location, and his car is a typical econobox - it easily fits inside any garage bay. But his job is worse than the Interstate's job, in that it has more visible application flaws.

So, some installer may tell you that they can't do your 3M work because they don't have a bay tall enough for an Interstate, and they may want to stick to that as a policy. But unless there's a sand storm raging outside, I'm not sure that the fear is well-founded.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:28 AM   #85
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Bear with me through the first paragraph - I want to put something in context that is important for T1N Interstate owners.

Do you ever get a niggling feeling that there's something you missed that's sort of important, and it needs to break through to your conscious mind so that you can articulate it explicitly and deal with its implications? That niggling is originating with your subconscious, which is incredibly perceptive but which doesn't speak a single word of English. The subconscious mind is a lot closer in its function to the ancient reptilian brain than it is to the prefrontal cortex. As such, the subconscious only speaks Reptile, which the English-speaking (or other verbalized language) prefrontal cortex is not well-equipped to translate, hence the niggling feeling as the two of them persist in failure-to-communicate discord.

Six days after the initiation of a niggling feeling, the source of it finally broke through: the T1N Interstate's characteristic black mask appears as if it might have been applied BEFORE the windshield was installed, not after, as I would have expected on an upfit vehicle. I would have expected that the thing was delivered to Airstream as a stripped-down but functioning Sprinter, and then they proceeded to do their job, including the paint details. But if that had been true, I should have seen some evidence of the original MB paint under the windshield when it was removed. I don't think that was the case. It appeared to be a continuous black mask, the one that was added post-production for style reasons.

That potentially explains why we had water leakage but no rust. During the windshield replacement job, my husband asked me in text whether I was SURE there was no rust? Implied question: how can there be no rust?! That makes no sense. T1N Sprinters are legendary for rusting around the windshield. At least they are, unless someone comes along later and adds another layer of paint in the form of a black mask. That paint still wasn't the correct formulation for optimal windshield adhesion (according to my installer), but at least it was, in fact, an added layer of protection - hence leakage but no rust.

So the news for T1N Interstate owners would appear to be mixed. You are at high risk of windshield leakage, in the expected fashion of the brand. But when your windshield does leak, rust may be slower in getting a foothold.
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Old 05-25-2018, 08:15 PM   #86
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After our 12 day trip, I can't recommend the 90% 3M Crystalline on side windows. Too much heat came through once we returned from cooler climates to Texas.


I thought the combination of original window tint (little as there may be) and the 90% would be enough to block the sun's heat and yet not affect night vision. Since the 90% is so light (hardly noticeable) and I don't really intend to drive at night, I now regret not going going with 70%.


Since we cracked the windshield before we even left our city limits on day 1, I'm so glad I didn't spend the $500 to have it tinted too. One bullet dodged.
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Old 05-25-2018, 08:19 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowiebowie View Post
After our 12 day trip, I can't recommend the 90% 3M Crystalline on side windows. Too much heat came through once we returned from cooler climates to Texas.


I thought the combination of original window tint (little as there may be) and the 90% would be enough to block the sun's heat and yet not affect night vision. Since the 90% is so light (hardly noticeable) and I don't really intend to drive at night, I now regret not going going with 70%.


Since we cracked the windshield before we even left our city limits on day 1, I'm so glad I didn't spend the $500 to have it tinted too. One bullet dodged.
CR-70 is the way to go... I apologize if I contributed to the confusion...

CR-70 is clear enough to not be an issue at night...
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:34 PM   #88
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I did 90 on windshield and 70 on doors right before I headed to Texas. Just returned home to SC and I can't imagine my trip without it. I slept in my AI 19 nights. I probably would have baked without it. A very good investment!
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:19 PM   #89
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CR-70 is the way to go... I apologize if I contributed to the confusion...

CR-70 is clear enough to not be an issue at night...

No need to apologize. I knew most were getting the darker crystalline tint and happy with it. I just decided to err on the side of night vision with side mirrors (even though I'll probably never drive at night). I was thinking a little more tint would be enough, but I had yet to own my Avenue through a Texas Summer, even though I should have known better.
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:34 PM   #90
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I did 90 on windshield and 70 on doors right before I headed to Texas. Just returned home to SC and I can't imagine my trip without it. I slept in my AI 19 nights. I probably would have baked without it. A very good investment!

You probably did the right thing. However, I still use commercial window coverings from "Coverking"when parked in direct sun and for night time privacy.
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Old 05-26-2018, 03:59 PM   #91
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Just washed all the Texas bugs off my AI, whoever mentioned the bounce dryer sheet to get them off....THANK YOU! However after only 3 weeks and 1 trip, I do have a small chip in the windsheild. I thought it was a baked on bug but its not. At what point do you have to do something? It is very small
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Old 05-26-2018, 04:23 PM   #92
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Just washed all the Texas bugs off my AI, whoever mentioned the bounce dryer sheet to get them off....THANK YOU! However after only 3 weeks and 1 trip, I do have a small chip in the windsheild. I thought it was a baked on bug but its not. At what point do you have to do something? It is very small

Someone else will have to answer. My windshield luck is always bad. I never get chips, only cracks which start out about 2"-3" inches then proceed to run horizontally across requiring replacement.



You could start with a call to your insurance company or a visit to a trusted auto glass shop
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Old 05-26-2018, 06:05 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowiebowie View Post
After our 12 day trip, I can't recommend the 90% 3M Crystalline on side windows. Too much heat came through once we returned from cooler climates to Texas.

Since we cracked the windshield before we even left our city limits on day 1, I'm so glad I didn't spend the $500 to have it tinted too. One bullet dodged.
Even though I do not have CR90 or CR70, I have to agree with you. CR90 TSER is 34% but CR70 is 50%. Big diff. Just by comparison, my LLUMAR AIR80 TSER is 43%. So I am dead smack in between the CR90 & CR70. Huge diff. with 43% vs. bare auto window. I think that extra 7% from mine would still be noticeable. But, look at it this way, you are still rejecting 34% more than without it for virtually the clearest tint of all options. If it was my wife's car (knowing she has to drive many times in the dark early hours and early night) I would probably have chosen CR90 or AIR90 too, just because she has a tough time with dark tint at night. But since I am the only person who would normally drive the AI, I was ok with the darker. Lucky dodge on windshield
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Old 02-05-2019, 08:56 PM   #94
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Check before tinting your side & rear windows

Just discovered today that my van comes with the W70 option. A source was generous enough to provide me info from my DataCard to confirm this. I assume that most AI's have this option, I just can not envision AS ordering the vans without the W70 and then tinting it themselves. MB states the side & rear windows come with dark-grey 90% tinting. It reduces heat from solar radiation by 90% (compared to un-tinted) & 85% (compared to the green-tinted driver/passenger/windshield glass). The 3 most important specs for evaluating window tint are TSER (Total Solar Energy Reduction), VLT (Visible Light Transmission), & UVR (UV Rejection). These MB specs already far exceed LLUMAR, 3M Crystalline, or any other after-market tinting product.

So, what's the big deal? Well, if it were not for the powershades enclosure that is such a PITA to remove and my tint shop did not want to get involved in that, I would have spent lots of money to re-tint the side & back windows. I have been led to believe by 100% of any tinting shop or tint manufacturer that the factory tints that vehicle manufacturers put in the rear section of vans/suvs are no more than "low VLT dark privacy tinitng" that does nothing to help TSER & UVR reduction.

The other big deal is the windows with the flip-out bottoms are not MB OEM, they are CR Laurence windows. And the only spec they post for their Sprinter windows is they are 28% solar privacy glass. What exactly does that mean? 28% VLT or 28% TSER or both?
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Old 02-20-2019, 09:04 PM   #95
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My Classic SonderKlasse W140

While this is not an AI, it is still a MB that has taken advantage of the new technology in window tinting. This SonderKlasse (S-Class W140 ) is a 1995 part of the 1st batch to land stateside in early 1994. It will be officially a "Classic Car" status in couple of months. 25yrs. old & 25,000 dry highway miles. Though things still break - not from abuse but lack-o-use. At my mechanic's advice, I will use it more - in summer time of course. So it was imperative to get the latest tinting tech.

To celebrate it's new status and the fact that it has crossed over from the 20th to 21st century, the old technology tinting has been ripped off. It now has the same tinting as the AI.
- front windshield - Llumar Air Block 80 BL SR HPR
- front visor - Llumar CTX15 CH SR HPR ceramic
- side windows - Llumar CTX15 CH SR HPR ceramic
- rear windshield - Llumar CTX05 CH SR HPR Limo ceramic
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Old 07-16-2020, 07:57 AM   #96
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My bad for doing this, but masking tape is not supposed to leave a residue.

Does anyone have any tried-and-true suggestions for removing gunk from high-end tints such as 3M crystalline?

I have tried the acetone-based cleaner recommended by the manufacturers. Not working.

I have not yet hit upon a good way to mount stuff to the inside of the Interstate windshield. I always use a Heatshield reflector, and if the paper permits and receipts are not affixed securely, they tend to fall down to where they are not fully visible.

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Old 07-17-2020, 03:36 AM   #97
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I wonder if a hair dryer and gentle rubbing would work or opposite, ice and gentle scraping. I'm close to the dealer who applied my coating so I think I would go back there so as not to avoid the warranty.
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Old 05-14-2021, 09:31 AM   #98
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Postscript to the issue of the 3M CR (crystalline) tint -

That is one tough tint, and I consider that it paid for itself this morning, because I think I caught a stray bullet on the Gulf Freeway. The FORCE with which that projectile hit my windshield was *WAY* out of line with the prevailing road circumstances - it was traveling faster than any object in my vicinity. My first thoughts were, "How can I still have a windshield at all?" and "I better run my hands over my chest to check for blood".

Anyway, I think the reinforcement of the tint layer helped to absorb the initial shock. I have to get the windshield replaced anyway, because the point-of-impact hole is all the way through, and because the cracks are growing so fast that one can sit there and watch them propagate. My windshield guy will hopefully begin the replacement job in about an hour. At my request, he first tried to drill the cracks out to stop the spread and maybe prolong the life of this very expensive windshield, but they were growing so fast that he couldn't do it.

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Old 05-14-2021, 12:27 PM   #99
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Ugh, Iím going to need to re-read this entire thread. I opted to NOT put a high-end tint on the new windshield until I verify that it does not leak at the corners that are so problematic with T1N Sprinters. The installer I use guarantees his work, but that means nothing if the tint is already on there when the leak first gets detected. They canít do anything corrective at that point.

But oh, I hate it without the tint. Hands on the steering wheel feel like they are thrust under heat lamps at the nearest greasy spoon buffet.

Installer recommends Madico Black Pearl ceramic tint. Iíll need to compare all its specs to the original 3M CR, because the cost is better. Yet another research project on my list.
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Old 05-15-2021, 05:53 AM   #100
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I have tried so many different films… once I did the 3M I stopped looking at anything else.

Keep us posted on how that Madico works out.
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