Fantastic Fan reseal

[Tincampers]

The FF had a small leak, so I pulled it out of there today. In between the ribs were some 3/8” wood spacers to level things out. I have some butyl tape and was wondering if I could just double up on that or replace the spacers?

Also, there is no wooden spacer around the opening like I’ve seen in others. Lily & comes to mind. Should there be one?

[Lily&Me]

Might call FF and see what they say.

You have a more recent model than mine, so something may have changed.

Maggie

[Bill M.]

When I did mine I inserted wood strips on all 4 sides of the opening. I arched the cross pieces to the curve of the roof. Worked good.

[Tincampers]

Originally Posted by Bill M.

When I did mine I inserted wood strips on all 4 sides of the opening. I arched the cross pieces to the curve of the roof. Worked good.

This was in a trailer? The Interstate has ribs on the roof and is not flat up there.

[Al and Missy]

I framed around my FF with 1x1x1/8 aluminum angle on my trailer roof. I don't know how curved your roof is, but mine was probably 1/8 - 3/16" below the FF frame at the outside edges. The fan was originally installed with a foam gasket which had long since compressed, and the aluminum skin was flexing. I use Sikaflex sealant to replace the fans. I match drilled the aluminum angles to the FF, put sealant on the angle between it and the skin and stuck toothpicks in the holes to aid alignment after covering the FF flange with sealant. I put some masking tape around the mounting area to give a good line on the sealant. The angle gives a secure mounting area for the FF.

If your roof is too curved for the aluminum angle approach, I'd put in the wood. Screwing the FF to the skin just didn't seem very secure.

Al

[Tincampers]

It is fairly flat except for the ribs. Of course AS couldn’t have moved it over a bit to get away from that long section of rib.

[Tincampers]

Well, I got in in there. The toothpick trick worked well. I reused the pieces of wood and sealed them in with Sikaflex, lining them up with toothpicks and holding them in place with spring clamps. After those were in, I reinstalled the fan and replaced the screws. I only had to drill out one new hole! I then sealed around the edges and smoothed in place with a gloved finger. I’ll let that set overnight and then do a final seal over the crew heads.

After that, the other roof penetrations will be redone.

[Tincampers]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I framed around my FF with 1x1x1/8 aluminum angle on my trailer roof. I don't know how curved your roof is, but mine was probably 1/8 - 3/16" below the FF frame at the outside edges. The fan was originally installed with a foam gasket which had long since compressed, and the aluminum skin was flexing. I use Sikaflex sealant to replace the fans. I match drilled the aluminum angles to the FF, put sealant on the angle between it and the skin and stuck toothpicks in the holes to aid alignment after covering the FF flange with sealant. I put some masking tape around the mounting area to give a good line on the sealant. The angle gives a secure mounting area for the FF.

If your roof is too curved for the aluminum angle approach, I'd put in the wood. Screwing the FF to the skin just didn't seem very secure.

Al

Going to try the tape. Did you take it right off or let it setup a bit first?

[Al and Missy]

I took it off right away. Would depend on what sealant you are using. If self levelling might want to let it set up a bit or it might run.

Al

[Tincampers]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I took it off right away. Would depend on what sealant you are using. If self levelling might want to let it set up a bit or it might run.

Al

Thanks, I’m using Sikaflex 221.

[Titus]

Was there a wood frame between the roof of the Sprinter and the aluminum ceiling panel of the Airstream? I don't see it in your picture, but thought I read about it in another post. I would replace the inner frame (if there is one) and the topside spacer strips with treated wood. IMO using 3/8" of tape to fill the gap sounds like a bit much.

[Tincampers]

Originally Posted by Titus

Was there a wood frame between the roof of the Sprinter and the aluminum ceiling panel of the Airstream? I don't see it in your picture, but thought I read about it in another post. I would replace the inner frame (if there is one) and the topside spacer strips with treated wood. IMO using 3/8" of tape to fill the gap sounds like a bit much.

No inner wooden frame. I may add that at some point as the rear most area of the vent is not supported at all.
The strips were PT wood and I just reused them. Sealed them in place with Sikaflex and then put the tape over that. Sealed up around the edges and screw holes pretty well. Hard to with a zillion ladybugs flying around your head! None yesterday, today they are everywhere!

Moved over to the black/gray tank and reseal the vent for that. Will do the reefer vent next, but of the three it is in the best shape.