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toskeysam · 05-23-2017, 11:33 AM

He must've done something different. The old solar fitting is still up front, but sealed up with Sikaflex. Will send pic when I get up there.

toskeysam · 05-23-2017, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toskeysam

He must've done something different. The old solar fitting is still up front, but sealed up with Sikaflex. Will send pic when I get up there.

Just found one of Lew's progress pictures. It looks like the antenna line used the roof combiner box to enter the coach. There are lines from each panel and one more that looks just like the antenna feed.

FlyFishinRVr · 05-23-2017, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toskeysam

Just found one of Lew's progress pictures. It looks like the antenna line used the roof combiner box to enter the coach. There are lines from each panel and one more that looks just like the antenna feed.

Thanks for that. So he did use the hole for the solar. Seems like a reasonable approach.

FlyFishinRVr · 05-23-2017, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Njg

Three panels because my 2 new ones fit behind the AC and utilizing the third that was OEM from Airstream. I with they hadn't laid it crosswise on the roof because 2 panels could have fit in that space.

I was thinking about this some more, and doing a bit more research, and caught a key bit of info that I missed before. In short, since you've got a MPPT controller, I'd recommend wiring them ALL in series. Here's why: what I missed before is the MPPT controllers will take in the high voltage created by a series connection and convert it to current. For example, you can have 3 100W panels wired in parallel and you'd have about 18-20v and roughly 15-18A going into your controller. Coming out of your controller you'll have the same 15-18A. If you take those panels and wire them in series, you'll have roughly 60v and 5-6A going into the controller, and roughly 15A coming out. So why go series if it's the same? Because of sun angle and shading. Your controller needs to see approx. 20v before it will turn on. Early in the morning and later in the afternoon, the sun angle is such that the solar panels may only be generating 10v. In the parallel config., that's not enough to turn the controller on. But in the series config., you'll have 30v going into the controller so it will turn on. Same argument for cloudy days, partial shade, etc. By going series, you're adding the voltage from each panel and increasing the chances of activating your controller. There is an added bonus of not having to worry about running heavy gauge wiring on the roof if you're pushing 20A+ through long runs of solar panel wiring from a parallel connection.

So, change of plans for me. I'm going to run 3 panels in series and let my MPPT controller do its magic. Per Mcrider's findings, over the course of a day, this setup should yield 10-40% more energy being fed into the batteries.

jmoon2100 · 10-04-2017, 02:03 PM

Is there a summary of the latest options for upgrading power on the 2017 Grand Tour. Would like something to present to "installer" that represents best practices learned by the forum members.

btw...any referrals to installer in Southern California would be appreciated
thx!
john

FlyFishinRVr · 10-04-2017, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmoon2100

Is there a summary of the latest options for upgrading power on the 2017 Grand Tour. Would like something to present to "installer" that represents best practices learned by the forum members.

btw...any referrals to installer in Southern California would be appreciated
thx!
john

Welcome to the forum John.

No, I don't think there's a summary of options, but if you've followed the various threads on the topic, I think you'll see three basic approaches bubble to the top.

All of them include: Add more solar and swap out the existing Atkinson solar controller for a MPPT version.

Where they differ is the approach to energy storage and monitoring. In order of easiest to hardest (and most expensive):
1) Add 2 more 12v AGM batteries to what you already have. Order the OEM battery trays, install on passenger side across from existing batteries, wire it all up and be done.
2) Swap out the 12v AGM's that you have for 2x6v 220Ahr AGMs, and add 2 more if you want even more storage. You'll need custom trays for this, or find 6v high capacity batteries that will fit as-is.
3) Swap out the existing AGM batteries for Lithium and add all the bits needed to charge lithium batteries, isolate it from the AGM chassis battery, monitor it, etc. This is a pretty intense and expensive upgrade that will require a fair bit of system design. Amirm, Interblog/IB3, and a few others have written up their adventures in this area, and some have supplied complete parts lists and diagrams.

Which approach you take is up to you and the amount of time and money you have to throw at it.

Eberheld · 10-05-2017, 06:52 AM

Hi MiGriffen,
We have frozen Techni Ice Sheets or Polar Tech Foam Freeze and when parked without external power, transferred them to the refrigerator, turned off the freezer, and lowered the setting in the refrigerator. That should work for a two-day-one night stay. We have an Interstate Grand Tour 2016. Of course that means no frozen food in the freezer!
Hope that helps.