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3bcamper · 05-22-2018, 02:34 PM

Hi All,

I just received my replacement dump hose from Clean Dump. My original hose has developed several pinhole leaks. The replacement seems easy, but is there anything I should be aware of before I make the replacement, and are there any videos out there on this subject?

2009 AI.

Thanks.

Tim

Titus · 05-22-2018, 02:40 PM

I have not replaced ours (yet), so cannot offer any advice on how to do it. But when I do I am going to make it about 3' shorter. I have never needed to full length, and the last couple of feet jam when rewinding and are tough to pull out.

ben322 · 05-22-2018, 03:34 PM

Ours was replaced under warranty as some of the mounting screws protruded and cut the hose. In Jackson Center, the dropped the entire unit and replaced the hose that way but I would probably extend the hose all the way out and look at the connector before dropping the spool.

Lineolated · 05-22-2018, 04:10 PM

It is possible to replace the hose without dropping the exterior box, but it is a severe PITA because there isn’t much working space going in from the side. Take a look and see what you think.

Airstream has a write up on replacing the hose by dropping the box. We called and they emailed it to us.

3bcamper · 05-24-2018, 06:22 PM

Thank you everyone for all your advice. I got the job done in the driveway today. It took three hours from start to finish, which surprised the devil out of me; I thought it would take much longer. I know this would have taken 1/2 hour if someone, anyone, would have let me use their lift, but no such luck. I considered doing this through side opening, but after a quick examination I realized that wasn’t gonna happen. Hopefully I’m good for another 9 years. Thanks again.

Titus · 05-24-2018, 06:55 PM

Could you please post the procedure that you used, and hints you discovered - it is something we'll all have to do at some time.
Thanks

pilotbit · 06-14-2018, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Titus

Could you please post the procedure that you used, and hints you discovered - it is something we'll all have to do at some time.
Thanks

Titus, I just had to make this replacement "on the road" therefore I did not have the tools that I would normally have available at home. I am attaching a crude drawing which is also an "on the road" effort.

My AS is a 2017 with about 25' of sewer hose which is wound onto a drum through a small opening from the outside through a fairlead roller arrangement which has an opening of about 4" x 2". The 1" plastic hose is "armored" by a thin blue plastic spring embedded in the wall. The inside diameter is 3/4".
The hose is generally pliable when warm but becomes extremely stiff when cold - this is when the problems occur in releasing and retracting the hose and the factory installed ball valve.

I was recently in high altitude and cold Colorado when I realized that there were leaks in the hose when the pump was activated. One at the forward attachment next to the ball valve due to bending of the hose during final stowage of the valve with ultimate cracking of the hose at that point. The other was deeper in the system and could not be seen from the outside.
A call to the nearest AS dealer was discouraging since they could only see me in 6 weeks! So, I decided to make a field repair.

I could not "drop the box" since it appears to be riveted in place so I made the repair through the side of the vehicle. Attached is the crude drawing of the cross section of the system as I saw it. The red line represents the drum.

The hose is attached to a 3/4" elbow as it exits the macerator pump which allows it to be directed around the storage drum in the correct direction for storage and release. It is then secured tightly to the drum by two Adel clamps spaced about 3" apart and then continues around the drum to exit the side of the vehicle through the fairlead arrangement.

The lead Adel clamp creates a big problem if the hose is "released" to its full extent because it causes the hose to bend backward upon itself and either obstructs or cracks the hose wall.

The fix is accomplished by first removing the fairlead apparatus so that you can get small hands inside. Release the hose to its full extent and remove the two Adel clamps; unscrew the hose clamp at the hose barb elbow and cut off the hose. Remove any damaged hose.

Replace the hose onto the hose barb elbow and replace the Adel clamps. Retract the hose approximately one to two feet and mark the hose at that point with electrical tape, or similar. This should indicate the "NEVER RELEASE FURTHER" point so that the Adel clamp will never crimp the hose again.

Retract the hose onto the drum and cut off the last 36" so that the drum motor does not get overwhelmed by the length and volume of hose. Add whatever fixtures you want to make stowage and use easy. I used threaded PVC devices so that I didn't have to deal with PVC cement on the road.

Hope this helps.

Air99 · 06-15-2018, 09:18 AM

Excellent write up, it’s the cold weather and sharp bends causing all the hairline cracks on the hose near the T handle ball valve, I just chopped off another 12” section on our last winter trip.

Alex AVI · 06-15-2018, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pilotbit

I am attaching a crude drawing which is also an "on the road" effort.

cut off the last 36" so that the drum motor does not get overwhelmed by the length and volume of hose.

Hope this helps.

PILOTBIT - YES, this helps tremendously. Drawing may be crude BUT it is just as clear and effective as a pic. Will implement tohe warning markings and make 1st pass at shortening.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Air99

I just chopped off another 12” section on our last winter trip.

AIR99 - I had been thinking of cutting off a little at a time but still hesitant, until now. I know I have never needed that much length, with the AI being so flexible in how close to park near hookups, so will chop off some to start (betw 2-3ft) and eventually work my way to optimal length

jstucson · 07-23-2020, 02:43 PM

I used my wife's hair dryer to soften the hose works perfectly, changed without removing the drum.

Titus · 07-23-2020, 04:04 PM

I will have to remember the hair dryer trick if I ever have to replace mine again. I fought trying to get the hose off the elbow fitting on the hose reel. Was afraid I would break the fitting, but it survived. I finally had to carefully slit the hose, but not gouge the fitting, to get the old hose off. I bought 25' replacement, and used half of it. I have never come close to needing all of my shortened hose.

RIZZOU812 · 08-02-2020, 02:58 PM

Recently, I could not dump because the hose was kinked. We unwound the whole wad to discover a kink near the drum. I have never unwound the hose the full length until that moment. Thus, it came from the dealer/factory messed up. I was done at that point.

I cut 9 ft off the hose and now it rolls perfectly. I suspect the pump will not have to work as hard since the waste only travels half the distance. I will leave that to the physicist in the crowd. I ultimately decided on cutting off 9 ft because now I have about 9’ replacement. We have never used more than 5 ft of hose, ever. I used a dremmel to remove ear clamp. I bought an expensive, but very good pinch clamp tool. (I know I will use it again) 1 bag of 1” pinch clamps. This job takes 30 minutes. 5 minutes to cut and re-clamp. 25 minutes of fretting how much hose to cut. Everything was purchased at home depot. I decided I did not have enough time to mess with the drum connection problems. I just straightened it out as best I could. So thank you for the post. I will start with the hairdryer. I differ in opinion in one area...from now on, I will be carefully unrolling all the hose so that I know exactly what is transpiring in and around the drum. I wish I had shortened immediately after purchasing. I hope the photos help. Go for it!

Here are the links for the tool and clamp.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1...10PK/301541072

Rickeyt · 10-26-2020, 09:38 AM

I have had to cut off the end of my macarator pump hose 2 times now because of small pinholes. It is the original hose on my 2015 Airstream lnterstate Lounge. I found this 100 ft roll of hose today on internet and they had it in stock. Covid19 has caused a sortage of almost everything. BW075X100 Kuriyama Tigerflex BW Series Blue Water Low Temperature PVC Suction Hose - 3/4" -100ft. Final cost with shipping is around $110.
https://hosewarehouse.com/collection...hose-3-4-100ft

gmillerok1 · 11-03-2020, 08:56 AM

If anyone needs a replacement hose, I have some Kanaflex .75 i.d. 1" o.d. hose that is superior to the OEM hose and fits the reel. I replaced my OEM hose long ago, but had to buy a roll of 100'. I have about 40' left. Just send me your address and it's yours just for the cost of shipping it to you. PM me if interested.

**Rocinante** · 11-03-2020, 05:34 PM

In spite of these great instructions and suggestions, we're finding that getting the new Kanaflex hose onto the elbow at the hose reel is nearly impossible. We've tried a hair dryer to heat up and soften the hose, but we're pretty nearly stymied. One post above says, "Replace the hose onto the hose barb elbow" - but it might as well say, "God smiles down, the clouds part, and a miracle occurs."

We haven't removed the reel from the van, though we did remove three bolts underneath so we could move the box a little to the side and at least get our hands in there to stop the reel from turning while attempting to attach the hose, but it's just awful. Any suggestions for getting the hose onto that elbow would be more than welcome, because we're close to giving up the project due to this one failing step. Thanks.

gmillerok1 · 11-04-2020, 08:17 AM

Try using a lubricant, such as Dawn detergent on the inside of the hose, as well as a hair dryer to soften. That worked for me when I replaced the OEM hose with Kanaflex (presuming you have the correct size I.D. hose).

GM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocinante

In spite of these great instructions and suggestions, we're finding that getting the new Kanaflex hose onto the elbow at the hose reel is nearly impossible. We've tried a hair dryer to heat up and soften the hose, but we're pretty nearly stymied. One post above says, "Replace the hose onto the hose barb elbow" - but it might as well say, "God smiles down, the clouds part, and a miracle occurs."

We haven't removed the reel from the van, though we did remove three bolts underneath so we could move the box a little to the side and at least get our hands in there to stop the reel from turning while attempting to attach the hose, but it's just awful. Any suggestions for getting the hose onto that elbow would be more than welcome, because we're close to giving up the project due to this one failing step. Thanks.

Rickeyt · 11-04-2020, 08:43 AM

I took on the task of replacing the macarator hose yesterday along with the macarator pump. Lots of lessons learned. To get the hose to go onto the fitting was not an easy task. Heating the hose to what I thought was almost too hot was the answer. I just kept on heating the hose and squeezing it with gloves on until it became somewhat soft. It was still rather hard to push over the fitting. Turning and pushing seemed to help as my first attempt at placement did not turn out with good results. I replaced the macarator pump on my 2015 AI at the same time. I broke the hose gong from the pump to the reel gettting it off and it is not the same size as the discharge hose. It is 1in id. I had to have a replacement hose quickly and ended up finding something that would would at a very unlikely place. Whylie Sprayers our local agricultural dealer had a hose that woked.

**Rocinante** · 11-04-2020, 01:26 PM

Great stuff, thank you folks. I wish we had thought of the Dawn detergent trick in addition to applying the heat. We very carefully confirmed the ID for our hose to be 0.75" before buying the Kanaflex. Interestingly, inside the door to our dump controls we still have a sticker saying that the original hose was made by "Clean Dump." When I looked on Amazon for their hose, it had an ID of 1", and I saw no option for 0.75" - this is why I went with Kanaflex instead of buying the Clean Dump hose off Amazon.

We went back at the task again this morning. We removed the three screws that held the box under the reel to the frame, and were able to get hands in there as well, which helped a little. We couldn't actually remove that box unless we either removed the hose from macerator to the reel or cut the box with tin snips, but we had no interest in doing either.

Today we combined the hair dryer trick with serious twisting and managed to get the hose properly seated on the elbow, followed by the hose clamp and the two Adel clamps on the reel, which were no mean feats.

About then, we realized the Kanaflex hose was not the least bit interested in being rolled tightly around the reel. So for the first roll-up, we used a hair dryer to really heat up the hose as we slowly, painfully, and manually rolled the hose on the reel, inch by inch, for the first time until we had filled the reel and had roughly a foot and a half of hose outside. Then we put the roller guides back on, re-attached the valve body at the end, re-attached the box underneath, and placed the exterior end of the hose inside the locking box, where it belongs. Looks good, hope it works as intended. We will leave the hose reeled up in there for quite some time before rolling it back out again. We're hoping the Kanaflex simply needs to be "trained" to properly roll up on the reel and that once it's been in there a while, the next time we extend and retract that hose will be tolerable.

Mr. B · 12-19-2020, 12:26 AM

Hi mates! Good thread to learn before replacing that hose!

Did you jack the rear left wheel before unscrewing the square metal box?

Tronadora · 12-19-2020, 06:16 AM

I've fixed pinholes to greatly extend the life of the hose by using self sealing Loctite Go2 silicone tape. https://amzn.to/34q22Sg

With all the reeling in and out of the hose the tape will fail over time but I just re-apply a new strip of tape and it's good to go again. Tip: use a permanent marker to indicate the pinhole locations. That way, each time you repair that hole, you won't have to search again. Be sure to stretch the tape as you wrap to get a good seal.