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Old 03-02-2019, 06:41 AM   #21
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There are some really interesting materials coming onto the market at relatively low prices. This is the SOL "all season blanket" which I picked up at REI yesterday.

Blanket?? Really, it's a tarp. But because it wasn't marketed that way, it didn't occur to me to investigate its sewing potential previously (nor its entire class of products).

In other words, there's a perceptual paradigm - buying a "blanket" and chopping it into pieces to make new products is not an obvious strategy. For one thing, "blankets" are typically too small for the conversion economics to work well. Buying a tarp-like product... yeah, moreso. I've already done that with conventional mass-produced tarps, with great success.

Anyway, this thing will either become a successful sewing mini-project, OR it will become an example of why this type of product ultimately proves to be not optimal for certain sewing applications. Stay tuned for that verdict.



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Old 03-03-2019, 09:16 AM   #22
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Looks are a bit deceiving on this one - it looks like I replaced one gray cooler cover with a second gray cooler cover, big whoop (the original gray tarp gasoline can cover is still beside it - I haven't re-sewed that one yet).

The mylar-coated material does not photograph well. It's actually quite bright to the eyes, and should perform better for summer heat rejection than plain tarp.

I used belt webbing as piping for this new cover around the side seams and bottom hem, so that it will be neat and fully reversible. I may want to turn the safety orange side out at certain times. For instance, when we are in Angelina National Forest during hunting season.

This material is much easier to sew than conventional tarp fabric and it certainly is better quality. What remains to be seen is how it stands up to road abuse. This area catches a lot of flak due to the wake turbulence that characterize a square-backed vehicle. It's always getting oily and filthy.

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Old 04-28-2019, 03:06 PM   #23
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A mini-project completed today - an alternate slider window covering.

My other DIY version is a full-on thermal unit, multi-layer with both Reflectix and Insul-bright in the core (Insul-bright is used as the heat-rejecting layer in pot holders). That other one is massive, heavy, and it blocks too much light for those instances when I am less concerned about heat rejection and more in need of feeding the optics of my security cameras.

So, this one is a light-gauge metallic fabric, lets in a lot of sun, but when coupled with the heavy slider window tint and its own reflective outward-facing surface, nobody can see in during daylight hours. But I can see out, like a one-way mirror. Which is good, especially when parked and working in urban areas, as I've done a lot of lately. If I hear a disturbance, I can see what's going on out there without having to remove anything.

It attaches to the same Velcro dots as were there for the OEM curtain. It is thin enough so that the slider can open with it in place, without it getting jammed anywhere.

Lingerie for the Interstate, so to speak.

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Old 04-11-2020, 10:35 AM   #24
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Re-doing no-see-um screens for the cab windows today. Weather is warming up, and with the coronavirus pandemic, there's very little left except off-gridding.

Changes to my previous approach:

(1) Neodymium dot magnets, as opposed to the magnetic strips I had sewn in previously. Those strips are do-able, but they are more fragile and less cling-y.

(2) Small neodyms. They tend to wear holes in fabric, especially if they are oversized for the job they are doing. My rear door screen is edged in non-ripstop fabric, and it's wearing.

(3) Larger neodym pockets for the same reason (see inset photo).

(4) Both cab windows this time, not just one as I had done a few years ago with my prototype.

For the moment, I've given up on DIYing a decent slider screen for the T1N Sprinter - it's a pain. Given that my barn doors are not obstructed, I prefer open cab plus open rear for air flow. I might change my mind on this eventually if I can simplify the process in a way that I can live with. Right now, my slider designs are too much work for too little result, especially when I can get reasonable air flow cross-section via the cab windows instead.

I have 14 neodyms in this design and ideally, I think I ought to have 16, but with other priorities consuming my lock-down time to date, I haven't gotten around to re-ordering:

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Old 06-03-2020, 09:42 AM   #25
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Should I do more homework on products before using them in projects?

Sometimes. But this one was a Johari window 4 issue - I didn't do the research because it never would have occurred to me that research was relevant, that any manufacturer would produce a tarp designed to reflect the sun that was not UV-stabilized. Nor would that have occurred to anyone else at the time, it seems. It's like producing a kid's swimming pool with holes in the bottom - who would even consider it as a possibility that should be looked out for?

This is the tarp I sewed into a Yeti cooler cover just over a year ago. It is now worse than useless but I'm having difficulty identifying a replacement. My question posed to the universe of Instagrammers who might also use these things:



EDIT:

Years ago, I lived in a home where the same phenomenon had destroyed the HVAC ductwork. The manufacturers did not think that UV stabilization was necessary for their product because they assumed that attics would be dark enough to prevent damage. Wrong answer. This is an example of one product that simply fell apart over time due to light leakage. In my old home, silverized HVAC insulation did much the same thing:

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Old 07-06-2020, 09:20 AM   #26
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I JUST found this ...thank you for starting it! Soooo helpful!
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Old 07-06-2020, 10:26 AM   #27
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I did end up re-sewing three (count 'em) new covers for the Yeti cooler:

1. A double-layer InsulBright jacket (I had been wrapping it previously - not an elegant or efficient approach)

2. A reflective cover to be used only when transporting frozen food

3 A conventional tarp cover to go over the new reflective cover, which hopefully will block enough UV light to extend its life.

Given that I am now piling up multiple covers to be re-layered based on need, I'm making all of them more loosely-fitting now, so that they accommodate each other.

Further discussion of this rationale is found at the epic thread called Ideas for larger-scale meal transport in an Interstate?


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Old 07-08-2020, 09:30 AM   #28
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Just curious..what kind of sewing machine are you using. I've been a sewer since I was about 12 years old, but my machine is not great with thick fabric. I used to even make my own jeans, but they were only completed after a bunch of broken needles and resetting the parameters. Thanks
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Old 07-08-2020, 09:42 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mansderm161 View Post
Just curious..what kind of sewing machine are you using. I've been a sewer since I was about 12 years old, but my machine is not great with thick fabric. I used to even make my own jeans, but they were only completed after a bunch of broken needles and resetting the parameters. Thanks
Low-end Kenmore which cost about a hundred bucks maybe 20 years ago. I use and abuse it. It will sew almost anything. I may have busted one or two needles, but not enough to discourage me.

Some people invest in higher-quality machines, but I have never felt the need.
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Old 07-12-2020, 07:46 AM   #30
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One of several sewing projects in the works right now. This tarp bag is to carry my very heavy ice blocks (30 - 35 pounds each) that contain vacuum-packed meals.

Note the features that are responsive to the weight of what it must carry:

(1) WIDE carry handles for comfort, so that they will not cut into the hands.

(2) Handles are sewn DEEP into the sides of the bag, for maximum surface area to distribute the weight. Most commercially-available tote bags have handles attached only near the top.

(3) Bag was scaled to conform to the shape of the cargo for which it was designed.

See this post in the "large-scale meal transport" thread for more details.

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Old 07-13-2020, 08:15 AM   #31
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Drawstring carry pouch for my Magma 15" grill when disassembled. I converged on the rounded footprint of the bag mostly by trial and error because it was a 3D shape and not worth my time to over-design.

Evidence of the pandemic: I ran out of black thread, so I used royal blue. I don't leave my house any more than necessary, with infection cases quadrupling in my city in the past month. I suppose I could order thread on Amazon, but it's almost all huge quantities that are offered for sale. I only need two spools.

Also evidence of the pandemic: My sewing machine is not tensioning properly but I have so many other things to do that I cannot be bothered with it. You can sort of see the improper tensioning in the photo.

Good thing I'm a fabric-hoarder. I had enough ripstop and paracord on hand to spare for this mini-project.

It's loosely made because I will need to put the used grill into a disposable plastic bag before inserting the works into the pouch. I will field-clean it but it's impossible to totally degrease without a lot of soap and more water than I can spare on most remote campsites.

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Old 07-13-2020, 03:18 PM   #32
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Well, I don't know if the world is my oyster, but the garage is certainly my sewing room.

Three more projects completed:

(1) A tarp sleeve for the Wavian 20 liter fuel can to be carried on the rear - nothing new or earth-shattering there.

(2) A tarp sleeve for our new Clam Venture, which will serve as our first ever true outdoor room. The Clam Venture (discussed on this thread) will be carried on our roof. The sleeve is not waterproof, but it will protect it well enough from road dirt and soaking rain.

(3) FINALLY, I have created a sized carrier for the Berkey water filter - black ripstop with an orange paracord drawstring, similar to the carry bag for the Magma grill. Probably the first time in... 41 years that I have sewn a circular bottom onto any crafted item.

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Old 07-13-2020, 05:09 PM   #33
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Sewing machine woes... poor tensioning:
Reduce the tension to 0, remove thread, using a lightweight long bristle brush, clean between all the disks and go 360° around the knob. Try again on a piece of scrap and readjust as needed. Look carefully at your needle too, if it is binding on your thread, try a heavier one with a bigger hole. Do check that you havent installed the bobbin backwards in the case (Look at the picture and verify yours is rotating the right way). Last try cleaning lint from your bobbin case tension. I have 2 bobbin cases for my good machine, one is for heavy upholstery thread. Adjusting the tension with the screw on a bobbin is not a good idea if you aren't a pro.
And if your machine doesn't have a "walking foot" it is easy to have the bottom layer of fabric moved forward by the feed dogs while the top layer is stretched back by the presser foot. There is a pressure foot pressure adjustment on top of most machines that allows you to make the foot loosen up or press down harder. Read your manual, clean and oil the machine, use only needles designed for your machine... and know that there is a walking foot attachment for most machines that is not quite as good as a built in one, but worth a try.

I have a 1953 Singer, all metal gears, and Amazon or Ebay is a lifesaver for needles.
I love the instruction manual too, almost 80 pages of detailed instructions in English only, using complete sentences and pictures - no assumptions that the reader has ever used a machine before.

Breaking needles. Most often caused by one of the problems above... same fixes. Other big problem is the 4 to six thicknesses of fabric on "flat felled seams" used with jeans. Cuss a lot and just stop sewing over those doubled up lumps. If you are topstitching in contrasting white or orange thread, then hand stitch the top layer of the fabric on the top of the seam, or cut away the seam allowance on the inside at the seam, then topstitch.
(Some machines reload the bobbin in place. Neat and easy. Had one once, but everything in its guts was plastic and planned obsolescence would have killed it if I hadn't thrown it from a 4th floor window... missed the dumpster too.)

Do NOT try to drag your fabric forward to clear a big lumpy seam, that will bend and break the needle for sure. Needles do last for a long time, but will wear out. Try a new needle and if everything works better, throw the old one out.

If you've never used a serger but sew a lot, consider getting one. OMG be prepared for an almost religious experience. They have a steep learning curve, even to thread, but fast and great on knits and spandex, and neatly finishing seams... wow. After that you will want a top stitch machine, and an embroidery machine, and.... it's a bit like Airstreams. There are lots of youtube videos (sewing porn) and serger prices have come down in recent years. I paid about $600 for mine, but one with the same features today would be about $250 last I checked. Brothers has good reviews, but I haven't used one myself.
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Old 07-14-2020, 06:17 AM   #34
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Great info - thanks! If I didn't abuse the heck out of my machine, I might try upgrading. But it's sort of like my daily driver's windshield at this point - broken in 7 places, and I'm holding off on replacement because I don't want that 8th rock to land on a brand new windshield.

I have one more sewing project that I must complete for this season - a sleeve for our lithium weed wacker, which we must take to our summer property. That has to be carried on the roof.

I also might make a couple of sleeves for the new cast iron cookware pieces I got this year. I can live without them, but "clean" is never equal to "totally degreased" with cast iron.
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Old 07-14-2020, 09:00 AM   #35
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You are holding off unnecessarily. New machines are generally very inexpensive, and good bargain used machines can be found on Craigslist, Ebay, at thrift stores and sewing machine repair stores (which are becoming hard to find). Singers were excellent through the 1950s and maybe the early 60s. Ditto New Home (Janome). Haunt estate sales.too. I've acquired and resold quite a few Singer feather weights that way,, though not the holy grail - the 120 volt free arm model. Got one for $15. Check ebay... you'll see. Craigslist of course, too.

Todays machines are all Chinese made with nylon gears. They are brilliant until the gears wear out within 2 to 7 years. Then repair costs are similar to buying new, but most are $400 or less.

As far as I know, Elna and Pfaff and probably Husqvarna are still made in Europe and are precision tools.
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Old 07-16-2020, 04:08 PM   #36
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Quote:
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...

I have one more sewing project that I must complete for this season ....
Well, I spoke too soon, didn't I?

Of course I did.

The Amazon fairy left this Coleman camp oven on my doorstep today. It is intended for use on top of a Coleman camp stove, but my intention is to try it over a wood fire by positioning it on top of our portable grill stand as shown below.

If you are ever lucky enough to travel to Fortress Louisbourg National Historic Site, you *must* try the soldier's bread that the animators sell there, the bread that they tried mightily to make as authentic to the year 1758 as possible. It is the best bread I've had in my entire life - I would almost drive six thousand miles round trip just for it.

They bake that bread over a spruce fire. I do not expect to replicate anything near that kind of quality, but I'm looking forward to messing around with this Coleman oven to try it out.

If I use this on a fire, it's going to get sooty. Hence it needed a tarp envelope for storage in our rig (the oven folds flat for transport).

That camp fire looks naked, does it not? It needs more stuff on it.

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Old 07-17-2020, 03:30 AM   #37
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Once you've mastered that bread recipe, please share. Since you are spending money, I also bought the square pizza stone for the oven since some mentioned it helped keep the heat more even in the camp stove, but I made it dual purpose....it fits in my home toaster oven that I use a lot.
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Old 07-17-2020, 05:39 AM   #38
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Rocks. I have an abundance of rocks at my site, and I thought about piling up rocks to help with the oven's heat distribution.

Many of them are already heat-tempered from having spent several years in previous campfires. And they are also very tough, because they are also tuff, very welded, and very old (600 million years). Thermal stresses tend to crack them in half, rather than exploding them in one's face, as some rocks do when subjected to extreme heat.
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Old 07-27-2020, 04:45 PM   #39
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This might (?) be my final sewn item in advance of this trip.

It’s just a closed-end tube for storing our lithium-powered string trimmer. Last year, we used a manual scythe-like device to cut back the weeds on my property, but we need something more robust.

This will be a “roof rider” along with several other pieces of equipment, hence the simple tube cinched with small shock cords. The tarp cannot be allowed to catch any wind, but there is no way to make this into a shaped, form-fitting device, so cinching it is.

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Old 10-25-2021, 04:42 AM   #40
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Now *THAT* is a #vansizedsewing project. It’s not finished - I still have to add more grommets to the bottom edge of the larger panel. The smaller panel was hung yesterday, so the wrinkles haven’t come out. And I hung them with twine until the solar fabric relaxes and I know how best to tighten the final installation.

The fabric is described on Amazon as “Patio Paradise 8’ x 25’ sunblock shade cloth roll”, about $55 when I bought it (with inflation and supply chain issues, who knows how that price will evolve… diesel is now $3.40 per gallon… in Texas). It’s the best fabric I found for the money - I tried other sources first but was not impressed with the quality.

I was able to sew it with my consumer-grade Kenmore although I did shear off one needle. I had to use the UV resistant heavy-gauge outdoor thread which the machine detests. That stuff scares me. It’s almost unbreakable, which means that a jam may send metal shards flying in different directions. The needle will shatter before the thread breaks.

You can start to get a bigger picture sense from this scene also. Remember the big Texas freeze of last winter, and on another thread, I mentioned that we re-plumbed our Interstate to accept external sources of propane? Well, now that new connection is positioned adjacent to 140 pounds of propane. Once bitten, twice shy.

Our Interstate docking station at Texas Airstream Harbor. As part of this project, I had to go to Metal Mart and the hardware store to get the materials for the closest metal pole, rather than pinning the solar cloth to the side of the building as many installers do. But I wanted to maintain a walk-through passage next to the propane bottles:

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