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Old 08-10-2019, 06:08 AM   #21
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Thanks for all the guidance. I found the wiring harness under the rear jump seat and have identified wire 6a. All these switches have ground connections which I presume goes back to the common ground in the wiring harness? Just a matter of location and switch style now!
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Old 08-10-2019, 06:57 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Hammy Jr View Post
Thanks for all the guidance. I found the wiring harness under the rear jump seat and have identified wire 6a. All these switches have ground connections which I presume goes back to the common ground in the wiring harness? Just a matter of location and switch style now!
You do not need any ground. Simply cut wire 6a and splice two wires into the cut ends. Run these two wires to wherever you want your new switch and attach them to the contacts of the switch. You just want a simple SPST switch in series with wire 6a.

Reminder ... the new switch MUST be in series with the circuit.
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Old 08-10-2019, 12:47 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Hammy Jr View Post
Thanks for all the guidance. I found the wiring harness under the rear jump seat and have identified wire 6a. All these switches have ground connections which I presume goes back to the common ground in the wiring harness? Just a matter of location and switch style now!
HAMMY JR - Yes, what JOHN said. The only switch style that may need extra wires is if you went with lighted led, i.e. the one where it is configurable (lit with switch off -or- lit with switch on -or- lit all the time). My led is lit with switch off to act as night light and easy to spot with eyes half closed. But it is pretty bright, especially when pitch black. So I may resistor dim it or just reverse to be unlit with switch off
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Old 08-11-2019, 07:35 AM   #24
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Thanks to all!

VERy helpful. Thanks to everyone. One final question for you. If I do go with a lighted LED switch, where did you connect the 3rd wire?
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Old 08-11-2019, 12:00 PM   #25
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VERy helpful. Thanks to everyone. One final question for you. If I do go with a lighted LED switch, where did you connect the 3rd wire?
HAMMY JR - Depends on how many leads your switch has. Mine has 5 connections and came with a 5-pigtail connector/wire harness to tap into. Depending on how the connections are wired determines how the switch (latched/unlatched) controls the behaviour of the led (on/off) or the output-device is (on/off). There are 4 different outcomes/combo of led/output-device for my switch. See pics.

Some led switches are very basic, led on when load is connected, led off when disconnected, or led on all the time. Whichever you buy will have the correct pinout diagram for you to follow. I can not specifically speak to the pinout for those as they vary. In either case, putting an led switch will require access to a constantly hot +12v from somewhere. And it does not even matter if it comes from house, chassis, Energizer A23 battery, ac/dc 12v adapter, etc because it is only meant to power the led and not affect the mechanical functionality of the switch itself. Good luck on your choice.
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Old 08-11-2019, 01:43 PM   #26
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I see no reason to have a LED indicator on the switch. We turn on the switch when propane is needed and it is on the pre-travel checklist to turn it off before leaving. Nothing wrong with having the LED, but I wouldn't bother (and didn't).
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Old 08-11-2019, 04:02 PM   #27
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EDIT window missed:

HAMMY JR - found a diagram for the most common 3 wire connection for led lighted switches. This will only have 2 modes - lighted all the time or turns on when switch/device is on.

BTW if you do use led lighted switches, best to pickup your tap between wiring harness & external switch (wire Red - 6) because that is always hot. That makes it much easier to have your source of +12v and load wires at same location. If you put your tap between external switch & solenoid (wire Red/Blk - 6A) you will not have constant +12v on wire 6A as that is the output of the external switch and depending on where you make the splice, you may be too far away from a convenient constant +12v
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Old 08-12-2019, 05:26 AM   #28
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Like Pahaska, I did not see the need for a LED. I have a small rocker switch that is clearly marked with a 1 (on) and 0(off) side. I listen for the metallic 'clank' when switching it on to assure that the solenoid did open. Solenoid closing is silent.

If I had a LED I would want it on when the switch is on, and powered by the wire that is being switched. That way, if the Airstream-installed switch is off the LED would be off even if the second switch is in the on position. If the LED was powered separately the solenoid would be off if the Airstream switch is off even though the second switch (and LED) would be on. (The above assumes that the two switches are in series, which is the way they should be for filling-safety reasons.)
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Old 08-12-2019, 11:30 AM   #29
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.If I had a LED I would want it on when the switch is on, and powered by the wire that is being switched. That way, if the Airstream-installed switch is off the LED would be off even if the second switch is in the on position.
TITUS - Yes, that my preferred way too & how I wired mine. It is sort of becomes a remote indicator for the OEM outside switch
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Old 08-29-2019, 07:23 AM   #30
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Thanks - extremely helpful. Iím using the same switch so will use wire 6 instead of 6a to ensure constant 12v for powering the LED on the switch.
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Old 08-29-2019, 09:18 AM   #31
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Thanks - extremely helpful. I’m using the same switch so will use wire 6 instead of 6a to ensure constant 12v for powering the LED on the switch.
HAMMYJR - Yes. Also sent you PM in response to your related questions.
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Old 06-20-2020, 12:50 PM   #32
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finding the right wire

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Originally Posted by Hammy Jr View Post
I found the wiring harness under the rear jump seat and have identified wire 6a.
I am wondering how you identified the correct wire.

A lot of discussion on where to locate the switch (all very good) but not much on actually finding the wire itself.

Under my rear curbside cupholder cut out are several wire looms. All are covered in black weave so I will need to open the weave to see what's in there.
Anything you found e.g. unique color, other wires in the loom would be helpful.
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Old 06-20-2020, 01:38 PM   #33
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Red 6A

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Originally Posted by sheakev View Post
I am wondering how you identified the correct wire.

A lot of discussion on where to locate the switch (all very good) but not much on actually finding the wire itself.

Under my rear curbside cupholder cut out are several wire looms. All are covered in black weave so I will need to open the weave to see what's in there.
Anything you found e.g. unique color, other wires in the loom would be helpful.
In my 2015 lounge, it's a Red wire with a 6A stamped on it in black. I had to cut the black weave covering the bundle of wires located underneath the curb side jump seat to find it.
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Old 06-20-2020, 03:35 PM   #34
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In my 2015 lounge, it's a Red wire with a 6A stamped on it in black. I had to cut the black weave covering the bundle of wires located underneath the curb side jump seat to find it.
I found one red wire in one of the looms. I will need to get a magnifying class to see if anything is printed on it. It is the only red wire I am seeing in this area. The other low voltage loom only had a couple of larger orange conductors. There are two other looms but they are just protecting the 120VAC line to the GFCI outlet right there.
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Old 06-20-2020, 04:48 PM   #35
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I found one red wire in one of the looms. I will need to get a magnifying class to see if anything is printed on it. It is the only red wire I am seeing in this area. The other low voltage loom only had a couple of larger orange conductors. There are two other looms but they are just protecting the 120VAC line to the GFCI outlet right there.
Correction, I found three red wires in this loom bundle. I haven't been able to find any markings on them. I guess I will start cutting them and the one that disables the solenoid will be the winner.
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Old 06-21-2020, 05:31 AM   #36
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The wires definitely have numbers printed on them but you will need to take the black weave off quite a bit and look at the wires to find it. My numbers were printed so lightly it almost looked like they used an invisible grey ink.
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Old 06-21-2020, 07:13 AM   #37
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If I recall correctly there were two red wires leading through the bottom of the van to the propane switch located behind the right rear tires. Cut either of these and run one side of the cut wire to your second switch and the wire from your second switch goes to the other side of your cut wire. It doesn't matter which of the two red wires you cut; both switches need to be ON for propane to flow.
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Old 06-21-2020, 08:11 AM   #38
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If I recall correctly there were two red wires leading through the bottom of the van to the propane switch located behind the right rear tires.
I have three redwires in this loom and I cannot see where they go through the frame to the switch. Perhaps when I remove the jump seat it will be visible and become clear.
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Old 06-21-2020, 12:38 PM   #39
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I have three redwires in this loom and I cannot see where they go through the frame to the switch. Perhaps when I remove the jump seat it will be visible and become clear.
I removed the jump seat to access the bundled wires and also took the 2 retaining screws off the clips that held the bundle to the side of the AI.

If you cut n peel enough of the black mesh off of that bundle, you should be able to look at 12 -18" of the red wires and find the one marked 6A!
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Old 06-21-2020, 08:11 PM   #40
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If you cut n peel enough of the black mesh off of that bundle, you should be able to look at 12 -18" of the red wires and find the one marked 6A!
Eureka! I found it. I removed more of the loom and finally found the light grey printing on the wire: 6A.

I just need to fish a pair of wires from the splice point (under the cup holder) to the switch which will be above LP Detector. I got the same pushbutton switch mentioned above. Drill a hole for it and pick up a ground for the LED and I will be in business.

Thanks to everyone here for the ideas, help, and patience while I got this all sorted out.
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