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Old 08-30-2018, 08:46 PM   #21
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Really awesome work.
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Old 08-30-2018, 10:00 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by wachuko View Post
Wow!! I am here shaking my head and just saying "over the top man!"
WACHUKO - Thanks. You know you had lots to do with this wiring redo I was doing bath mod and while waiting for glue to set, figured I can do a quickie with the WACHUKO Fusion double-disconnect switch. Well, I could not let the rats nest go untouched. 3.5 hrs. later and bath mod is unfinished

TOBBUN - Thanks. I just have this thing about unruly rats nest wiring. Goes back to my pet peeve installing mainframes for HP.
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:13 PM   #23
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Woohoo, weather this holiday weekend has been great, hot but not scorching. So, able to do more tinkering in AI. Found my way into the rear compartment and opened up the Airxcel Suburban on-demand H2O heater enclosure. I was pleasantly surprised to see I do not have to do a lot of rewiring to tidy up. But I found a mystery harness and an optional harness.

1. Optional harness - this connects to an optional on-demand control center. I asked my PDI guy about being able to control the unit myself & was told I could not? Huh? Well, now I know I can get this contoller, yeay!
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2. Mystery harness - found a 3-wire (white, blue, black) harness tucked between Auto Transfer Switch & rear of on-demand H2O heater. It has a couple of strange looking in-line connectors. It is labeled 7.5A Max. I have not had time to follow other end inside house electrical compartment under R/S jumpseat. Will do it next few days. Anyone know this?
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:59 PM   #24
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Nice job Alex! Personally, I would never attempt opening up the dash like you did. I always have parts leftover.


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Old 09-07-2018, 09:53 AM   #25
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Keep going Alex, and continue to post photos and the write up. I keep saving all this for reference if I ever have to go back in there!!
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Old 10-01-2018, 05:52 PM   #26
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Just finished another round of re-wiring, re-routing, or re-harnessing wires/cables perilously dangling close to ground level or close to moving parts in undercarriage. Either due to never being harnessed at all or held by same plastic wiring clamps used in powershades wiring. These plastic cheap clamps secured by doublesided tape that peels off at first sign of heat.
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:09 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Air99 View Post
Great idea! Try not to unplug any connector while you put on the wire loom covers or its closed circuit sensor will throw a “SRS system check visit dealer” code on the dashboard, as happened to mine. The tech said you must disconnect all energy sources before messing with these wires.
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Good catch. �� Yep, I did disconnect power, hence no visit to dealer. I should have stated that right off the bat, since we have SRS/sensors on front seats. One of those things I didn't think of and just assumed DIYers would do anytime disconnecting connectors is involved. Thanks.
With some vehicles I've worked on (Porsches for example), as long as the key is out of the ignition switch the SRS sensor won't throw a code when disconnected. Perhaps MB is different but, in any event, disconnecting the battery is usually a good idea when messing around with vehicle electrical circuits.

Anyway, enjoying this thread even though I don't own an AI!
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:37 PM   #28
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.Anyway, enjoying this thread even though I don't own an AI!
I have a feeling you will get your AI soon right after your test drive
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:38 PM   #29
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2018 AI Lounge - Tidy up wiring & trim pieces to match MB quality

Toyota, for one, notes for ANY SRS work, disconnecting the battery and waiting 1/2 hour or more the make sure the backup in the SRS system is fully discharged. Otherwise there is a risk of setting off parts of the system.
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Old 11-28-2018, 01:18 AM   #30
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Dashboard all apart AGAIN

I am pretty much an expert at taking entire dash apart now that I have done so for the umpteenth time. This time it's to route entire VB Air controller & wiring competely inside the center dash/console and into the empty rectangular bin under the hazard switch & above ashtray/cupholders.

First tried via the driver's side, but being right-handed and the parking brake lever on my left (as I laid in between driver/passenger seats), I gave up contorting on my non-favored side. So took the passenger dash apart instead. Lots more disassembly but roomier/easier path.

Luckily, I already had center console apart as I was also installing wireless rear cam receiver to the Fusion head unit. Was able to kill 2 birds with 1 shot.

Will need to fabricate an acrylic faceplate for the controller to square off that odd shape.
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Old 12-04-2018, 08:27 PM   #31
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Saw this trick on Instagram and thought of Alex’s wire tidying job.

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Old 12-04-2018, 09:33 PM   #32
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Saw this trick on Instagram and thought of Alex’s wire tidying job.
INTERBLOG - Thanks for thinking of my work. Nice find of that pic. When I installed Enterprise mainframes for Fortune 500 companies, I used similar tie wrap techniques, though not that exact one you found, but a more compact loom. You should have seen my tie wrap expense report. The HP factory allowed a certain amount of install time. I took 2-3x longer. But my customers loved it/me. And it made for easy troubleshooting & maintenance for my techs. In the last house we built in Chicago in 1984, I wired the entire house electrical myself, including low voltage & audio/video, then after inspection the drywall & finish guys came in to wall it up. Of course, that's after I cleaned every inside cavity of garbage left by the framing guys that would've been drywalled in. Then in less than 2 yrs. I was transferred by HP to R&D Prototype work in Silicon Valley. Full paid move, so I guess they thought I was qualified to prototype computers?

My dream is to do my own empty B-van infrastructure/mechanicals from scratch, before the furniture guys wall it in. If I had a completely bare van inside, your pic would be one way I would wire it and sacrifice a little floor & ceiling space for a trough/conduit to fish new cables afterwards. Not sure I can pull it off. So don't tempt me & tease me with these "wire porn" pics. It will keep me sleepless for days

2 samples of AI wiring vs. AVI re-wiring (overhead wiring & on-demand water heater wiring).
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Old 12-05-2018, 05:10 AM   #33
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...

My dream is to do my own empty B-van infrastructure/mechanicals from scratch, before the furniture guys wall it in. ...
I'm currently working on LB_3 to get him to move away from the very paradigm of "wall it in".

We've got a little 'vacation shack' we are working on, and I don't want conventional walls (modern industrial theme, so anything goes). Sure as heck, we are going to want to open those walls back up in the future to do something else behind them. No drywall. Drywall is permanent, and passe'. Just like the Interstate, the entire shack should be designed from the get-go so that it can be assembled and disassembled and reassembled with none of this ridiculously unnecessary step called "demolition".

It's just a matter of how to configure the interior walls to allow that. The current idea is maybe screwed plywood base layer painted dark so that it recedes from view when subject to a structural off-set (the plywood is already in the shack, so it's paid for) overtopped by perhaps composite cement panels made to stand proud (float) over the plywood by maybe half an inch, maybe with LEDs backlighting them or something, so that the walls glow.

Something out of the ordinary, at least. Not the same-old-same-old. There's been zero innovation in building components like interior walls - why?

The thing is a long-term work-in-progress.
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:59 AM   #34
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I don't want conventional walls (modern industrial theme, so anything goes). Sure as heck, we are going to want to open those walls back up in the future to do something else behind them. No drywall. Drywall is permanent, and passe'. Just like the Interstate, the entire shack should be designed from the get-go so that it can be assembled and disassembled and reassembled with none of this ridiculously unnecessary step called "demolition".

It's just a matter of how to configure the interior walls to allow that. The current idea is maybe screwed plywood base layer painted dark so that it recedes from view when subject to a structural off-set (the plywood is already in the shack, so it's paid for)
INTERBLOG - I really like this industrial idea with screwed in plywood or some other easily disassembled, reassembled material other than drywall. I would not even mind the screw heads exposed. But stainless steel with intentionally oversized heads. And evenly, identical spacing. A bit more labor for me but my time is free. Then I would just paint the walls with elastomeric paint. Polish or epoxy the concrete floors. Love the industrial look. Easy to maintain. Can still soften it with strategically placed area rugs & furnishings.
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Old 12-06-2018, 04:57 AM   #35
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Drywall, how do I HATE thee - let me count the ways. Termites eat your paper coverings and burrow into your surfaces. Cockroaches do the same munching. Mold flourishes on you. You get soggy and deform when wet, or even slightly damp. You break easily. Your damage repair potential is both material- and labor-intensive. You are not versatile. And if you are of a certain Chinese variety, you off-gas both volatile organic and sulfurous compounds.

What's not to hate? Only the price, about ten bucks a sheet. Opiate of the suburban residential masses.

I ordered some samples of Hardie panel which is intended for exterior butt-jointing. Gosh, it's beautiful stuff. Semi-gloss textured surface and designer colors all the way through (no painting) and indestructible. Husband is like, "But that's lap." And I said, "No - it's actually panels, like drywall, only about a thousand times better quality."

I don't have a price yet - generic Hardie is about $15 per 4x8 sheet. This is probably more, but the beauty of doing a small vacation shack is that not much material is needed.

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Old 12-06-2018, 11:02 AM   #36
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I don't have a price yet - generic Hardie is about $15 per 4x8 sheet. This is probably more, but the beauty of doing a small vacation shack is that not much material is needed.

INTERBLOG - I would have him read this from Allura. 8 ways to use fiber cement siding as an interior. Not sure which is better, Hardie or Allura but the article is genericly applicable. Yes, I was surprised at the diff colors now available. And they do come in many shapes & textures, not just ship-lap.
https://www.allurausa.com/blog/fiber...iding-interior

In a small vacation home, the extra price would be not too prohibitive. But you would more than recoup that with the minimal maintenance needed.
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Old 12-06-2018, 01:56 PM   #37
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https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...p?albumid=6611

Check this van build out. IB gets her insulation and Alex gets wiring conduit. I like the in floor heating.
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Old 12-06-2018, 02:59 PM   #38
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https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...p?albumid=6611

Check this van build out. IB gets her insulation and Alex gets wiring conduit. I like the in floor heating.
GETRIDAONE - All I can say is WOW! Thats an impressive build and definitely something I can be extremely happy with. If I was to nitpick, the only area I am unsure of is the foam insulation. I am may still opt for the easier to remove batt insulation just in case I need to go back in there for additional.mods at a later date. However, if I was VERY certain I wont ever, ever need to open up those cavities, I would probably foam it 100% also and even expoxy coat entire floor and walls. Leave the ceilings un-epoxied for in case a need to fish wiring through conduits. I did not see a real conduit system going fore/aft. Its mostly lateral. Maybe not as easily discernable in the pics. Love the hydronic floor heating system. Would love to see the entire finished rv. I was disappointed to not see even a very teeny bath or just toilet provision. Obviously, everyone has their own wants/needs. But that one is a deal breaker for me, no matter how impressive the build. I wonder what the R-value of that total foam insulation is. I bet its a big help.
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Old 12-07-2018, 06:15 AM   #39
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https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...p?albumid=6611

Check this van build out. IB gets her insulation and Alex gets wiring conduit. I like the in floor heating.
Yes, this is what we were talking about. Except in a shack, there would be fewer attachment points by virtue of the flat walls, so it would be a cleaner look.

Originally I was thinking birch plywood with a whitewash, so that the grain would barely be visible. But then I started thinking about cement board (which would not work in a van, obviously). I'm leaning toward a commercial grade of wood-look vinyl on the floor to help with insulation and moisture issues, and wood on the walls would be an overload. Some of the newer composite vinyl floor products are starting to remind me of Dynamat.

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Old 12-09-2018, 07:42 AM   #40
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OK, a bit thread-divergent, but taking that idea above one step further with the pic below for inspiration:

Visualize something like the pic below, only with:

(1) The underlying base being plain old ordinary plywood painted charcoal black so that it recedes from view,

(2) Plain monolithic cement board floating over top of the recessive background, but with similar backlighting as shown in the pic. With narrower gaps between the panels, more complete wall coverage, and with precisely-spaced attachment hardware similar to the van ceiling example pic provided above, except less of that hardware.

This for modern-industrial walls, instead of ordinary ten dollar wallboard. If executed properly, I think it would be cool. Some DIYer on the internet did this with plank flooring, but it could be done with other materials:

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