2016 Interstate EXT Air Conditioner

[MobileRVR]

Has anyone found a way to lessen the noise of the air conditioner? There is hardly any sound difference between the low fan and high fan. We are in the deep south where temps are in the high 90s and low 100s with matching humidity and air conditioning is a necessity. Thank you.

[73shark]

Welcome to the AirForums.

Besides the fan noise, you have the compressor rigidly mounted to the roof which is like a large speaker diaphragm. Wait 'til you run it w/ the generator on. AFAIK, no one has come up w/ a noise reduction for the roof mounted A/C.

[FlyFishinRVr]

Check out this link: Link to external A/C unit install

It's sorta buried in another thread, but hopefully the OP will start a new thread and put this info in there so it's easier to find.

[amirm]

A portable unit with some way to vent outside seems to be the ticket. The other poster cut a hole in the chassis. But how about finding a way to vent through a side window?

[73shark]

Originally Posted by amirm

A portable unit with some way to vent outside seems to be the ticket. The other poster cut a hole in the chassis. But how about finding a way to vent through a side window?

I'll bet a sheet metal guy could fab a hood that would fit over one or two of the crank out windows in back and magnetically attach to the body.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by 73shark

I'll bet a sheet metal guy could fab a hood that would fit over one or two of the crank out windows in back and magnetically attach to the body.

Yes - you could make a panel the same size of screen on the rear side windows on each side. The screen pops out easily. But the required 4" air duct might get in the way of the sleeping area.


- - Mike
2013 Interstate Lounge EXT on 2012 Sprinter

[73shark]

I thought it would be on the outside. Shaped like a boot for a floor register in a house. One for cold air in and the other for the return to the outside unit like a system on recirc.

Something like this times two:

Might be lucky enuf to find something that already fits.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by 73shark

I thought it would be on the outside. Shaped like a boot for a floor register in a house. One for cold air in and the other for the return to the outside unit like a system on recirc.

Something like this times two:

Might be lucky enuf to find something that already fits.

Might have to modify that type of duct to account for the fact that the windows don't crank open a full 90°. Either that or get ducts big enough to fit over the glass and wrap around the opened windows, then seal to the glass with sticky-backed Velcro…

[AstroBruce]

The OP wants to lessen the noise from his air conditioner, not replace it.

Bruce

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by AstroBruce

The OP wants to lessen the noise from his air conditioner, not replace it.

But as long as the rooftop air conditioner is physically attached to the van and is not ducted, there is no practical or cost-effective way to reduce the noise level. Hence the suggestions about earplugs and separate free-standing A/C systems.

[73shark]

Might have to modify that type of duct to account for the fact that the windows don't crank open a full 90°. Either that or get ducts big enough to fit over the glass and wrap around the opened windows, then seal to the glass with sticky-backed Velcro…

Like I said it would be something a sheetmetal guy could custom fab. I thought magnets would be a good attachment method if they were covered so they didn't scratch the paint.

[markc12v30]

The add on A/C unit was a bit complicated but the final project turned out good. It is a standard room window a/c, 6,000btu, that I carry behind the lounge---weighs about 60#--so it is easy to set on the ground upon arrival at my campground. After hooking up the 110V power, I plug in the a/c and turn it on with the remote. The unit had to be modified to have a simple 4" dia room air input and a similar cold air output. I did that by removing the plastic shroud and making two sheet metal manifolds, one for cold air and one for return air. (It helps to have sheet metal fabricating capability.) The remaining problem was to then run two 4" flexible pipes into the back floor of the AI. This was done in the extreme back corners of the coach with tight fitting 4" pvc components. (Perfect fits and extra care in sealing keeps road odors out while driving.) It takes all of 5 minutes to set it up or take it down in the am. The procedure is this: When setting up for the night I
have both a/c units running---the loud one set at 78 degrees and the quiet one set at 74. By the time we crawl in bed the loud one cycles OFF and only the quiet one runs. The extreme back of the coach is the only place where it is 74---but that's OK.

“How about some pictures?”

I started with a standard 110V window A/C unit, 6,000 BTU bought at Home Depot, $175. The unit fits right behind the lounge for travel (Pic 1). The cold air output is on top and the return air duct is below.

Pic 2 shows the A/C Unit on the ground with the flex hoses hooked up to the AC unit. The next step would be to hook up the other end of each flex hose.

Pic 3 shows the location where the cold air hose comes through the floor---right back in the extreme corner of the AI. When the carpet is pulled back (Pic 4) the 4” dia seal is exposed. Remove the seal and (Pic 5) the PVC pipe fitting is exposed. The return air fitting is in the other back corner of the AI.

Cutting the two holes in the floor took some time but worked out just fine. The beauty of the PVC fittings is that they are perfect friction fits. Fittings were located so the seal would be perfectly flush with the floor, no bump in the carpet.

This is a small unit and WILL NOT cool the whole AI coach. But where we sleep it is cool and comfortable and very quiet.

[MILATV]

Originally Posted by markc12v30

The add on A/C unit was a bit complicated but the final project turned out good.

Wow! Good job. Have to admit I've passed on weekend camping trips in the heat because the noise of the AC is unbearable.


Mike