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Old 12-18-2006, 11:38 AM   #21
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We don't know all the loading particulars of your current setup. [on edit: deleted misleading suggestion.] Please be careful! This could be extremely dangerous if not resolved somehow -- keep us advised. Thanks!
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:45 AM   #22
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Quote:
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We don't know all the loading particulars of your current setup. But you could try to move all your cargo forward and see if that doesn't improve handling.
Sounds like with the remodel that they shifted a lot of weight to the tongue...
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Originally Posted by harestream
The mods made put more weight in the front, we replaced the gaucho with a booth seating arrangement, only the boothes are large storage compartments. We also removed one of the two twin beds in the back.
Could a tongue that's too heavy be causing this?

Shari
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:47 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
Sounds like with the remodel that they shifted a lot of weight to the tongue...
Could a tongue that's too heavy be causing this?

Shari
I wonder that, too. Also, the water tank is ~300lbs to play with forward of the axles...is it full, empty, or somewhere in between?
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:54 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
Sounds like with the remodel that they shifted a lot of weight to the tongue...
Sorry, I just saw this too. Results from overloading the tongue? Guess I'd go with Chuck's suggestions on checking tongue weight with a scale (weigh wheels while unhitched -- remember to block) and making sure one brake isn't hanging up.

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Could a tongue that's too heavy be causing this?
I wouldn't think so but I just don't know. It should be pretty straightforward to get 12-15% of gross trailer weight onto the tongue -- after which you could rule this out. It would be interesting hearing back if the tongue weight never was over 15% of gross weight!
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:03 PM   #25
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The trailer is dry, no water in teh water tanks at all. In the remods we didnt really add too much, only took stuff away really. we arent even 100$ compete yet. Thought we'd leave and work on our last details from the road. Bill is out there now rearranging things based ont eh advice given. we'll go get it weighed and then bring it by campers inn for a final check. thanks all of you.
-Kelly
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canoe stream
Sorry, I just saw this too. Results from overloading the tongue?

<snip>

I wouldn't think so but I just don't know. It
My thought is, w/o weight distribution, it could be making the TV "do a wheelie" which could make the set-up feel squirrely.

SHari
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:14 PM   #27
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I hear you Shari -- my brother put too much weight in the trunk of an Opel Kadett and it sure got squirrely because steering input went south. That's why I'd like to hear the results when they do weigh!
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:17 PM   #28
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My thought is, w/o weight distribution, it could be making the TV "do a wheelie" which could make the set-up feel squirrely.

SHari
...but it didn't feel that way before the mods were done. Hence my concern that something has changed...
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:23 PM   #29
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Quote:
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...but it didn't feel that way before the mods were done. Hence my concern that something has changed...
Exactly. The additional weight on the tongue w/mods & storage.

Shari
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:28 PM   #30
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BE SAFE - and see you down the road

I recently moved my trailer just 10 miles and it was acting very squirrelly - with a Reese dual cam ON.

When I got to my alternate "home camp site" I noticed that one trailer tire seemed low. It was very low and I'd checked it three days before moving. Thought I'd picked up a nail, but found that the valve was loose and leaking air. Tightened it up and refilled the air. Still seems to be holding air just fine now. Amazing how one tire on a tandem axle can do that much to make you feel like "a whole lotta shakin' goin' on".

PS: I know that with aluminum rims my tire pressure will leak out a bit more than with steel, so I do have to refill everything once a month if not more often. I'm not going to ASSume again, but will check right before hitching.

Paula Ford
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:31 PM   #31
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Okay, well we moved some of the heavier items back over the axel, in hopes to restore airstream design feng shui. We adjusted the chains and the brackets, so they are pulled taught at a 90 degree angle to the frame and we crossed the hanging chains, just for kicks.

We are heading out to our RV specialty store to have them take a look and we are going to weigh it at a place a long the way if we are still having sway.

Thanks for your help everyone. You're lifesavers.
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:52 PM   #32
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Be safe, and get back to us with the results!

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Old 12-18-2006, 12:53 PM   #33
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I hope it goes well Kelly. This is amazing real-time communication. We'll want to know more about your internet connections when you arrive safely.
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:59 PM   #34
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Hitch Ball?

I hate to add late confusion, and if answered on page 2 I apologize....

There are 3 sizes of chrome/steel hitch balls, and your trailer needs the largest (2 and 5/16") and it looks in the picture on page on that yours is 2" in diameter...

If that is true, trailer could pop out of hitch and really test chains and emergency brakes...

Easy way to test is latch hitch ball into hitch without any spring bars, and then try to jack up trailer using electric jack.. If it won't lift Suburan off the ground, then ball might be too small...

And all of the tires in the Suburban should be pumped up to at least 65 psi, preferably 70 psi....
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Old 12-18-2006, 03:44 PM   #35
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OK, I know you've had to process a lot of information here, but I think there are a couple of other things to consider.....how much weight is in the back of the Suburban (luggage, etc.), what condition are the shocks & springs on the rear axle of the Suburban, does the front end of the Suburban rise when you hook up the trailer? If your weight transfers significantly to the rear axle of the tow vehicle, your steering is going to be affected.....and this effect will increase with road conditions (dry vs. wet/slushy/snow). And on a related issue, watch out for anti-icing gel that highway departments are using.....there have been a couple of serious accidents out here caused by that stuff making the road more slippery.
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Old 12-18-2006, 06:49 PM   #36
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Harestream , I just got back home , you guys have started quit a thread here . Gives you some idea of what a great community this is and how willing people are to help , on another day you'll have the chance to help someone else and I know you will. When you can let us know how you made out at Campers Inn, that was a wise decision to have them check it out. Hopfully it will make your journey a pleasant experience . Good travels , Bob
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:21 PM   #37
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Hi, Harestream,

We see here why this forum is so great - it works.

My '75 Argosy has one of these hitches. After reading about some failures here, I towed it 220 miles home on the ball.

To get weight distribution, you need to have some upward deflection in the lift bars them self - parallel is not doing much for you at all.

A typical failure mode of this type of hitch is to have one of the lift bars fall out of the hitch while going down the road. If the hitch is correctly loaded when this happens, one could be in a bad situation.

What you can do to lessen the chances of this happening is to inspect the slot in the lift bar and the part in the hitch that it fits into before you hitch up. If either appears damaged or worn, don't GO.

And save up some funds and get a modern hitch for it when you can.

Good luck!

Lamar
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Old 12-21-2006, 09:50 PM   #38
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Thanks all for your input on our hitch sitch. We got into Nashville today. The hitch worked great, a vast improvement in handling and the guy at Camper's Inn gave it two big thumbs up. Changing to the WD hitch moved a lot of the weight to the front of the TV, and made it tow like one piece. We also redistributed the weight from the tongue back to over the axels.

So we made it up the rotten gas guzzling mountains and down the beautiful flat plains and apart from our TV busting 10 miles from our destination...(seriuosly) things went great and it was a fast fun drive from NH to TN.

The fate of our TV is still in flux at the moment but that is another thread. Literally. We are looking for information on whether or not our head gasket is busted. But the hitch worked beautifully. Thanks again everyone from Harestream and myself. Also we are going to be posting our before and after airstream renovation shots as soon as we get it cleaned up from the drive.

Best to all.
Bill
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Old 12-21-2006, 10:21 PM   #39
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Whew!

Glad to hear that you made it. That was a pretty exciting start to your trip.
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Old 12-22-2006, 09:38 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again
I recently moved my trailer just 10 miles and it was acting very squirrelly - with a Reese dual cam ON.

When I got to my alternate "home camp site" I noticed that one trailer tire seemed low. It was very low and I'd checked it three days before moving. Thought I'd picked up a nail, but found that the valve was loose and leaking air. Tightened it up and refilled the air. Still seems to be holding air just fine now. Amazing how one tire on a tandem axle can do that much to make you feel like "a whole lotta shakin' goin' on".

PS: I know that with aluminum rims my tire pressure will leak out a bit more than with steel, so I do have to refill everything once a month if not more often. I'm not going to ASSume again, but will check right before hitching.

Paula Ford
All great points, Paula. Actually this entire thread is a good reminder-reading for everybody after letting the trailer sit for an off-period of time (i.e. winter).

I have an air compressor in my garage and when the Airstream gets hooked up I hit every tire with the digital air gauge to make sure they are all up to the proper levels and all have equal air pressure, including my TV. Any below level reading and the air compressor goes to work.

Proper tire inflation is the first thing I check in my pre-travelling checklist right after proper hitching connections.
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