weight distribution and tire loading

[Al and Missy]

If the front axle is not overloaded to start, WD will not overload it since the goal of WD (used by some) is to restore 50%-100% of the weight lifted off of the axle when the trailer was hooked up without WD. The most one would see on the front axle would be the original weight.

I get it about 50/50 loading. I'm going to try that when I can get a good methodology of tuning the hitch real time.

Al

[AirMiles]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

�� Determining your WD with someone else numbers....now we ARE off track. ��

Bob
����

Just trying to show that the glossy brochure numbers are not real life. The OP needs to weigh the truck and post the scale tickets. Without scale tickets, it didn't happen. We're all wasting our time here.

Also, the truck needs to be packed for camping, all passengers, loaded bed . . . Who cares what a bare truck weighs.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

Just trying to show that the glossy brochure numbers are not real life. The OP needs to weigh the truck and post the scale tickets. Without scale tickets, it didn't happen. We're all wasting our time here.

Also, the truck needs to be packed for camping, all passengers, loaded bed . . . Who cares what a bare truck weighs.

That was my point exactly...sorry I was more obtuse than needed.🥴

My take...
I fail to see the logic in taking your TV's unloaded weight as a basis for weight distribution.
I have found it best to load everything for camping, weigh the TV alone and adjust WD to restore FA weight, every TV has a payload, a portion or all of that payload must be taken into account....Or more commonly, find a rationalization that works for you.🤓

Bob
🇺🇸

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

That was my point exactly...sorry I was more obtuse than needed.🥴

My take...
I fail to see the logic in taking your TV's unloaded weight as a basis for weight distribution.
I have found it best to load everything for camping, weigh the TV alone and adjust WD to restore FA weight, every TV has a payload, a portion or all of that payload must be taken into account....Or more commonly, find a rationalization that works for you.🤓

Bob
🇺🇸

The logic for looking at unloaded weight is that you will know how to load your rig before you actually do it, rather than getting it to a scale and then having to re-arrange it.

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

I tried to find an actual Ram 2500 Scale ticket to verify that a 2500 Ram would be so front heavy. I found this one from a 2012 Ram 2500 Diesel: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ml#post1285714

First my vehicle specs are (2012 Dodge Ran 2500 Diesel): GVWR 9600 lbs
Front Axle - 5500 lbs
Rear Axle - 6010 lbs
Combined weight - 1961

Scale Readings;
Truck Only - Steer Axle - 4780 lbs
Drive Axle - 3880 lbs
Gross Weight - 8660 lbs

Truck and Trailer - Steer Axle - 4860 lbs
Drive Axle - 4800 lbs
Trailer Axle - 8860 lbs
Gross Weight - 18,520 lbs

This puts a Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel at 55/45, the same ballpark as Ford and GM.

OK. So I did go out and weigh the truck:

Steer Axle: 4760
Drive Axle: 3240
Total: 8000

That's without driver, no cargo and a full tank of fuel (218 lbs).

This gives me a 60/40 weight distribution which is pretty close to the 62/38 that I get using RAM's SAE J2807 data. In other words, the RAM is more unbalanced than the Ford or GM when unloaded. Conversely, it is more balanced than Ford or GM when loaded.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by out of sight

The logic for looking at unloaded weight is that you will know how to load your rig before you actually do it, rather than getting it to a scale and then having to re-arrange it.

Ok...I will accept the fact that you have an inheritately unstable TV...load it as you see fit.

I load our 2500 Suburban at home and never have had to re-arrange at the scales. 👍

Bob
🇺🇸

[Bill M.]

I also have a Dodge diesel with a heavy front end. The engine is truly heavy. Have tried different adjustments of the bars. I like it with almost all the weight returned to the front axle. One link softer and it feels loose. One link tighter feels better yet except tht it makes it respond too much when a truck passes. I run my front tires the same pressure pulling or empty. Been a long time since I weighed it. Not really curious enough to do it again.

[Tyvekcat]

I agree with Bill M. I will have to find my figures from the Equalizer worksheet I wrote down when adjusting the Equalizer hitch way back in 14, when we bought the AS.

You do measure the bottom of the front wheel well and the rear one's from the ground, all being level, before the hitch and after adjusting the hitch. I wonder where I put that worksheet? I guess I could check that again, but truck and trailer are 'one' with that Equalizer. It has always handled and drove well. I think I only tightened it once, in high wind.

I've pulled the AS local for short distances without the distribution hitch, its okay, but I do notice a little more 'bounce', not really bounce, kinda hard to describe, nose goes up. Yeah I always use the equalizer if I go anywhere.

I noticed one previous comment in this thread, where someone said the truck doesn't drop much when the trailer is connected.
Mine does. Its back there on the very tail of the truck and I think that 28' is a nose heavy little (beep). It drops D-Ram more than a 1" 1/4 " when I set it on the ball.

You know, I like the 80 psi in the rear tires on the truck when towing, but I like 67-70psi on the fronts. Higher pressure in the front tires, I seem to be constantly adjusting going down the highway. Tires look the same, they don't look underinflated with 12 psi less. But it does drive different with air adjustments.
Have a good one !
rock on

[DoublTrouble]

I am intrigued. I always understood that the goal was
around 50% Front Axle Load Restoration. FALR.



So here are my fully loaded weights. 2015 F250 Diesel. 2×4. Oh, before anyone asks...yes it is time to go back to the scales.

BTW tongue weight - Pro Pride Hitch.

If I try to get the load to 50/50. I know that I will be too light on the front axle. Not a comforting feeling while driving California bumpy freeways. I tend to run at 4320# or so on the front axle or arounf 42% FALR...It suits me.[ATTACH]335543

[crispyboy]

Going to the scales when setting up your rig the first time is a great way to get a baseline on the initial adjustment to the weight distributing hitch.Overtime and experience has shown me that you have to pay attention to what the tow vehicle is telling by how the suspension, steering and tire temperature is handling the load for that particular trip. Speed also plays a factor in this too. Depending on what I load in the the truck will depend on how the weight distribution gets adjusted. Sometimes I do stop early on a trip to tweak the WD to improve the ride and handling. On longer trips I actually pack a bit lighter (depending on trip activities). If we are hosting a KY - WBAC Airstream rally we take lots of stuff such as tables, firewood, food, coolers, grill, etc.... Sometimes you really crank up the WD and slow down a bit.
I was really quite surprised it took so much for the OP to finally get satisfactory towing from the new F250. I figured it would be the cat's meow for a tow rig. Once I read he was getting a Propride hitch it was just a short matter of time until he would be smiling.

Congratulations to the OP for finding the sweet spot with the new tow rig and trailer.

[AirMiles]

Originally Posted by crispyboy

Going to the scales when setting up your rig the first time is a great way to get a baseline on the initial adjustment to the weight distributing hitch.Overtime and experience has shown me that you have to pay attention to what the tow vehicle is telling by how the suspension, steering and tire temperature is handling the load for that particular trip. Speed also plays a factor in this too. Depending on what I load in the the truck will depend on how the weight distribution gets adjusted. Sometimes I do stop early on a trip to tweak the WD to improve the ride and handling. On longer trips I actually pack a bit lighter (depending on trip activities). If we are hosting a KY - WBAC Airstream rally we take lots of stuff such as tables, firewood, food, coolers, grill, etc.... Sometimes you really crank up the WD and slow down a bit.
I was really quite surprised it took so much for the OP to finally get satisfactory towing from the new F250. I figured it would be the cat's meow for a tow rig. Once I read he was getting a Propride hitch it was just a short matter of time until he would be smiling.

Congratulations to the OP for finding the sweet spot with the new tow rig and trailer.

Thanks Crispy. I'm not the OP of this thread but am the poster that struggled to get my new F250 to perform as expected while towing my FC25FB. I really like the adjustability of the Propride. Yes, it sounds like overkill on an F250, but it makes towing a pleasure even with my 3/4 ton truck.

I'm not saying everyone needs a Propride because my Blue Ox SwayPro worked perfectly for 30,000 miles behind my other two diesel trucks. But if you are not confident after many attempts at adjusting your current weight distribution hitch, you may want to consider buying a Propride. It fixed my F250's loose and wandering feeling on windy days and the push-pull from passing semi's that I could not dial out with the SwayPro. The Propride return my, and more importantly my wife's, total confidence in our rig again.

[rmkrum]

I’ve found that the ProPride is very good at “tuning” the ride on my rig. If I don’t have enough WD dialed in, it porpoises enough to make DW seasick. A 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch more tension makes a huge difference in the ride and handling on my admittedly marginal Tacoma. Some day I’ll get the Tundra, but for now, I can tow safely and comfortably with what I’ve got.

[drbrick]

We use the Reese Straigth-line dual cam WDH with our AS & TV. The tires on our TV are BF Goodrich KO2's lt275/65r20/e 126s rated at 3780lb at 35lb PSI we also have a 2" front lift. Run GYE e rated 65lb PSI on the AS dual axle - no worries no problems.

[MissingLink5]

This intended for Gypsydad:
I thought the Goodyear Endurance recommended psi was 80? Am I wrong? They are 10 ply and rated for 70 mph I believe under normal load.

[wizardglass]

Originally Posted by out of sight

I had the blowouts on a 22 sport single axle trailer. The tires were factory Goodyear Endurance load class D. I heard that Airstream recently upgraded the factory tires to load class E because of this problem.

When you have a flat/blowout on a single axle trailer you don't know it until the tire starts disintegrating. I now have a two axle trailer and I hope that I can catch a flat before the tire wipes out my wheel wells. I'm also looking into a TPMS. Airstream should be providing a TPMS on all new trailers but they don't. Maybe they are making too much money on wheel well repairs.

That's why I use Michelin LTX suv tires on my 1970 trailer, 10 years and not a single problem. I know 10 years is pushing it for tire life, but I store them in doors for the winter and still no signs of cracking our dry rot. I'll be finally replacing them this year, putting them on my spare set of rims.

[out of sight]

I just looked at the nominal tire load on a 22FB with original Goodyear Marathon class D tires. Those tires were loaded to 82% of maximum using Airstream factory specs. That's significantly more than the 56% of my new 28 with Class E Goodyear Endurances and it goes a long way to explaining why the Marathons were blowing out.

[MandDinSpgTX]

Originally Posted by out of sight

No WDH. No, I have not been to a CAT scale yet, but I did calculate the loads based on MFR load data and dimensions. I have also weighed the tongue using the old bathroom scale technique, mainly when I was towing the 28 with my SUV. In that case I had to use a WD hitch because my headlights were pointing at the sky. My RAM 2500 drops only 1 1/4 inch with the full tongue weight on the ball, so no need there.

I see your point about the lower tire pressure making for a softer ride, but that's not too good for your tires. I'm probably too tire sensitive after having two wheel wells destroyed. I run mine at the recommended 80 PSI for max load.

80 PSI.....recommended tire pressure from the MANUFACTURER - not any of us on here....the MANUFACTURER. Spoken to them myself. Never deviates more than +/- 1 or 2 lbs, no matter what weather. Happy travels!

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by MissingLink5

This intended for Gypsydad:
I thought the Goodyear Endurance recommended psi was 80? Am I wrong? They are 10 ply and rated for 70 mph I believe under normal load.

From the Goodyear Endurance E chart; confirmed by GYthis morning:
ST225/75R15: 87mph weight/tire= 45PSI-2020lbs; 50PSI- 2150 lbs; 55PSI-2270lbs; 60PSI- 2380lbs
"Max pressure" numbers is listed is a guide for those who don't know their trailer weights...which many don't. GY recommends you use the chart if you know your trailer weight for max performance. Your mileage may vary...and of course, as always, you can run any pressure you feel you want to...just be careful!