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04-27-2017, 01:38 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
2016 30' International
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 772
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Turning while Braking
It seems to me that when I am braking and turning that "something" is not right back there. The rig seems to be rather jerky like the trailer brakes are locking up. But braking in a straight line I feel nothing wrong.
Also when I start from a stop the rear wheel will spin a bit so I have to take it easy.
2015 Ford F250
2016 30' International
Propride 3P
fat old bald guy
no experience
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04-27-2017, 02:52 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1969 31' Sovereign
Broken Arrow
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,455
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Could be the brake controller is too sensitive, installed wrong or loose wiring at the controller.
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Garry
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04-27-2017, 03:15 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
2016 19' Flying Cloud
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 103
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Does this happen while going around a curve at speed or while turning left or right at an intersection?
If it's while turning left or right, it could just be some play in your hitch setup? Maybe?
Also, per Garry's post, it could be sensitive brakes. Mine are sensitive at low speeds like when I would be turning
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04-27-2017, 06:42 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Walnut Creek
, California
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,952
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Sounds like the boost on the brake controller is set too high or something similar. That's the only time we have trailer braking issues.
For what it's worth, it has always been my understanding that braking on a turn should be limited to a very gentle caress to settle the rig. Braking and down shifting should be completed before the turn to keep everything smooth and controlled throughout the transition. That provides the tires all of the available adhesion to track through the turn. Pat
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04-27-2017, 07:12 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2016 30' International
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATownTX
Does this happen while going around a curve at speed or while turning left or right at an intersection?
If it's while turning left or right, it could just be some play in your hitch setup? Maybe?
Also, per Garry's post, it could be sensitive brakes. Mine are sensitive at low speeds like when I would be turning
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It does seem to be a low speed thing.
Maybe I gotta smooth my driving style.
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04-27-2017, 07:16 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2016 30' International
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI
Sounds like the boost on the brake controller is set too high or something similar. That's the only time we have trailer braking issues.
For what it's worth, it has always been my understanding that braking on a turn should be limited to a very gentle caress to settle the rig. Braking and down shifting should be completed before the turn to keep everything smooth and controlled throughout the transition. That provides the tires all of the available adhesion to track through the turn. Pat
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Your right. I'm going to work on that, and I sure don't have a gentle caress!
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04-27-2017, 07:17 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2016 30' International
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garry
Could be the brake controller is too sensitive, installed wrong or loose wiring at the controller.
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I'll look at that controller, thanks.
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04-28-2017, 04:37 AM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member
Chelsea
, Maine
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 380
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The wheel spin on starting from a stop is a concern as well. Could it be you have too much weight distributed off the drive axle?
__________________
2023 Entegra Odyssey 26M
2017 FC 27FB
2017 F250 Lariat Crew Cab 6.2L
Equal-I-Zer 10K/1000
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04-28-2017, 12:53 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2016 30' International
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMynes
The wheel spin on starting from a stop is a concern as well. Could it be you have too much weight distributed off the drive axle?
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Thats what I was thinking. And the jerkyness could be rear wheel antilock brakes activating. So how to tell how much, or where to set the weight distribution bars?
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04-28-2017, 03:50 PM
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#10
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4 Rivet Member
Chelsea
, Maine
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 380
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There are many threads addressing weight distribution, but in general, you measure from the ground, through the center of the front wheel, to the fender of your tow vehicle unloaded and unhitched.
Then hitch up and do not apply WD. Measure the front fender height again.
Now apply weight distribution to recover at least 50% of the difference in fender height.
Lots of differing opinions on how much front axle weight to recover, but at least 50%. Personally, I think 100% is better, in other words, put enough WD force in the hitch to put the front fender back to unloaded height. Other recommendations aside, I don't see the logic in lightening the front end if you can put it back to unloaded height.
If you apply too much WD and sink the front fender below unloaded height you're taking too much weight off the drive axle.
Once you get the front fender height correct, and the trailer level, take the rig to a CAT scale and get axle weights to make sure you haven't exceeded any of your capacities.
__________________
2023 Entegra Odyssey 26M
2017 FC 27FB
2017 F250 Lariat Crew Cab 6.2L
Equal-I-Zer 10K/1000
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04-29-2017, 10:33 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2016 30' International
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMynes
There are many threads addressing weight distribution, but in general, you measure from the ground, through the center of the front wheel, to the fender of your tow vehicle unloaded and unhitched.
Then hitch up and do not apply WD. Measure the front fender height again.
Now apply weight distribution to recover at least 50% of the difference in fender height.
Lots of differing opinions on how much front axle weight to recover, but at least 50%. Personally, I think 100% is better, in other words, put enough WD force in the hitch to put the front fender back to unloaded height. Other recommendations aside, I don't see the logic in lightening the front end if you can put it back to unloaded height.
If you apply too much WD and sink the front fender below unloaded height you're taking too much weight off the drive axle.
Once you get the front fender height correct, and the trailer level, take the rig to a CAT scale and get axle weights to make sure you haven't exceeded any of your capacities.
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OK . I'm looking forward to doing the CAT scale thing!
__________________
Randy and Beth 15 F250, 16 30' International, ProPride, Dexter 3" lift, Michelin 16, Dill TPMS, Centramatics, Battleborn x4, Victron BMV and 1.2KW inverter, Orion DC/DC, BlueSolar MPPT, 300W solar, Alpine iLX, Polk MM1, Samsung smart 42"
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04-29-2017, 11:23 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2012 28' International
Olympia
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 773
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The wheel spin at startup could also be your tires. The crappy Firestones that came OEM would spin out all the time, and their wet weather handling was awful. I switched to Michelins. Problem solved.
__________________
Dave
2014 Ram 2500 CTD
Pro Pride
Centramatics
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04-29-2017, 11:37 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Your tow vehicle Firestone tires would spin out when you were starting up from a dead stop?
Or did you mean the trailer tires spun out under these conditions?
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveswenson
The wheel spin at startup could also be your tires. The crappy Firestones that came OEM would spin out all the time, and their wet weather handling was awful. I switched to Michelins. Problem solved.
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04-29-2017, 11:40 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mythbuster88
It seems to me that when I am braking and turning that "something" is not right back there. The rig seems to be rather jerky like the trailer brakes are locking up. But braking in a straight line I feel nothing wrong.
Also when I start from a stop the rear wheel will spin a bit so I have to take it easy.
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Just to be clear, have you described two problems?
1. trailer brakes locking up; and
2. tow vehicle rear wheel spins a bit.
If one (or more) of your trailer brakes is out of adjustment, and locks up prematurely, could this cause both problems?
Maybe have another person identify which wheel on the trailer locks up, and check the tire for unusual wear. Probably a good idea to have your trailer brakes adjusted, and the pads inspected for wear also.
Good luck!
Peter
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04-29-2017, 04:17 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2016 30' International
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15
Your tow vehicle Firestone tires would spin out when you were starting up from a dead stop?
Or did you mean the trailer tires spun out under these conditions?
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Tow vehicle spins out on start from dead stop, especially when wet.
This truck has TOYO tires, LT275/65R20
__________________
Randy and Beth 15 F250, 16 30' International, ProPride, Dexter 3" lift, Michelin 16, Dill TPMS, Centramatics, Battleborn x4, Victron BMV and 1.2KW inverter, Orion DC/DC, BlueSolar MPPT, 300W solar, Alpine iLX, Polk MM1, Samsung smart 42"
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04-29-2017, 04:36 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2016 30' International
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15
Just to be clear, have you described two problems?
1. trailer brakes locking up; and
2. tow vehicle rear wheel spins a bit.
If one (or more) of your trailer brakes is out of adjustment, and locks up prematurely, could this cause both problems?
Maybe have another person identify which wheel on the trailer locks up, and check the tire for unusual wear. Probably a good idea to have your trailer brakes adjusted, and the pads inspected for wear also.
Good luck!
Peter
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Thats right, two problems.
I mentioned them together because I thought they may be related.
Also I'm not sure if the trailer brakes are in fact locking up.
__________________
Randy and Beth 15 F250, 16 30' International, ProPride, Dexter 3" lift, Michelin 16, Dill TPMS, Centramatics, Battleborn x4, Victron BMV and 1.2KW inverter, Orion DC/DC, BlueSolar MPPT, 300W solar, Alpine iLX, Polk MM1, Samsung smart 42"
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04-30-2017, 04:00 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mythbuster88
. . .
Also I'm not sure if the trailer brakes are in fact locking up.
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Thanks for the two replies. Ascertaining which trailer wheel (if any) is locking up should be fairly easy to do. On level pavement with some sand on it, a light manual application of the brake controller should lock up any brakes which are grabbing first. Once identified, moving to clean dry pavement would permit further testing and adjustment of the brake controller as well.
Good luck!
Peter
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04-30-2017, 04:19 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Mantua
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15
Your tow vehicle Firestone tires would spin out when you were starting up from a dead stop?
Or did you mean the trailer tires spun out under these conditions?
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I had firestones on my tv and they were very slippery the more they wore. I could get wheel spin on take off on anything but dry pavement. As they wore down near the indicators they became outrite dangerous in the wet. They seem to be okay as trailer tires but are slippery on the tv. I would have used them as replacements but the michelins called my name. As new the firestones were okay with an occasional slip on acceleration, but as they wore close to the indicators they were slippery.
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04-30-2017, 08:37 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,408
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Me...
Lift trailer one side at a time.. can you move each wheel similarly?
Grab tires, front and rear..try wiggle any direction... as you move.. are bearings ok?
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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05-05-2017, 02:53 PM
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#20
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Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
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Turning while Braking
The habit to have is to finish braking before turning wheel. No exceptions for any external cause. Any vehicle, and any time or speed.
Anyone needing to rotate premium tires on a pickup before 25-30k miles is possessed by a truly bad habit.
Brakes should last 70-100k miles.
Factor that in. Too fast into turns, and late braking.
Loss of control accidents with travel trailers are entered as "too fast for conditions". Driver skill or experience is moot.
On some turns wil be the need to re-engage throttle just past turn apex to bring the trailer back into a sort of cohesive balance with the TV. To bring it around. Not all turns, but it's an ideal.
Positive tension at the hitch ball by the TV. Anything else is a primary contributing cause of accidents. No slack except under straight line conditions.
Brake controller should engage trailer brakes "harder" to maintain this positive tension by the TV.
Late braking screws things up. Causes premature wear, for one. Two, the rig is vulnerable in a turn, and with brakes on even more so. Think other vehicles and slick road surface.
Towing means better habits.
All said, the above items listed for you to check are on par. A good list to start with.
And, damned funny signature.
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