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Old 04-27-2017, 01:38 PM   #1
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Turning while Braking

It seems to me that when I am braking and turning that "something" is not right back there. The rig seems to be rather jerky like the trailer brakes are locking up. But braking in a straight line I feel nothing wrong.

Also when I start from a stop the rear wheel will spin a bit so I have to take it easy.



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Old 04-27-2017, 02:52 PM   #2
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Could be the brake controller is too sensitive, installed wrong or loose wiring at the controller.
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Old 04-27-2017, 03:15 PM   #3
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Does this happen while going around a curve at speed or while turning left or right at an intersection?

If it's while turning left or right, it could just be some play in your hitch setup? Maybe?

Also, per Garry's post, it could be sensitive brakes. Mine are sensitive at low speeds like when I would be turning
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Old 04-27-2017, 06:42 PM   #4
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Sounds like the boost on the brake controller is set too high or something similar. That's the only time we have trailer braking issues.

For what it's worth, it has always been my understanding that braking on a turn should be limited to a very gentle caress to settle the rig. Braking and down shifting should be completed before the turn to keep everything smooth and controlled throughout the transition. That provides the tires all of the available adhesion to track through the turn. Pat
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Old 04-27-2017, 07:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATownTX View Post
Does this happen while going around a curve at speed or while turning left or right at an intersection?

If it's while turning left or right, it could just be some play in your hitch setup? Maybe?

Also, per Garry's post, it could be sensitive brakes. Mine are sensitive at low speeds like when I would be turning
It does seem to be a low speed thing.
Maybe I gotta smooth my driving style.
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Old 04-27-2017, 07:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
Sounds like the boost on the brake controller is set too high or something similar. That's the only time we have trailer braking issues.

For what it's worth, it has always been my understanding that braking on a turn should be limited to a very gentle caress to settle the rig. Braking and down shifting should be completed before the turn to keep everything smooth and controlled throughout the transition. That provides the tires all of the available adhesion to track through the turn. Pat
Your right. I'm going to work on that, and I sure don't have a gentle caress!
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Old 04-27-2017, 07:17 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by garry View Post
Could be the brake controller is too sensitive, installed wrong or loose wiring at the controller.
I'll look at that controller, thanks.
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Old 04-28-2017, 04:37 AM   #8
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The wheel spin on starting from a stop is a concern as well. Could it be you have too much weight distributed off the drive axle?
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Old 04-28-2017, 12:53 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by JMynes View Post
The wheel spin on starting from a stop is a concern as well. Could it be you have too much weight distributed off the drive axle?
Thats what I was thinking. And the jerkyness could be rear wheel antilock brakes activating. So how to tell how much, or where to set the weight distribution bars?
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Old 04-28-2017, 03:50 PM   #10
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There are many threads addressing weight distribution, but in general, you measure from the ground, through the center of the front wheel, to the fender of your tow vehicle unloaded and unhitched.
Then hitch up and do not apply WD. Measure the front fender height again.
Now apply weight distribution to recover at least 50% of the difference in fender height.
Lots of differing opinions on how much front axle weight to recover, but at least 50%. Personally, I think 100% is better, in other words, put enough WD force in the hitch to put the front fender back to unloaded height. Other recommendations aside, I don't see the logic in lightening the front end if you can put it back to unloaded height.
If you apply too much WD and sink the front fender below unloaded height you're taking too much weight off the drive axle.
Once you get the front fender height correct, and the trailer level, take the rig to a CAT scale and get axle weights to make sure you haven't exceeded any of your capacities.
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Old 04-29-2017, 10:33 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMynes View Post
There are many threads addressing weight distribution, but in general, you measure from the ground, through the center of the front wheel, to the fender of your tow vehicle unloaded and unhitched.
Then hitch up and do not apply WD. Measure the front fender height again.
Now apply weight distribution to recover at least 50% of the difference in fender height.
Lots of differing opinions on how much front axle weight to recover, but at least 50%. Personally, I think 100% is better, in other words, put enough WD force in the hitch to put the front fender back to unloaded height. Other recommendations aside, I don't see the logic in lightening the front end if you can put it back to unloaded height.
If you apply too much WD and sink the front fender below unloaded height you're taking too much weight off the drive axle.
Once you get the front fender height correct, and the trailer level, take the rig to a CAT scale and get axle weights to make sure you haven't exceeded any of your capacities.

OK . I'm looking forward to doing the CAT scale thing!
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:23 AM   #12
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The wheel spin at startup could also be your tires. The crappy Firestones that came OEM would spin out all the time, and their wet weather handling was awful. I switched to Michelins. Problem solved.
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:37 AM   #13
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Your tow vehicle Firestone tires would spin out when you were starting up from a dead stop?

Or did you mean the trailer tires spun out under these conditions?



Quote:
Originally Posted by daveswenson View Post
The wheel spin at startup could also be your tires. The crappy Firestones that came OEM would spin out all the time, and their wet weather handling was awful. I switched to Michelins. Problem solved.
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:40 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by mythbuster88 View Post
It seems to me that when I am braking and turning that "something" is not right back there. The rig seems to be rather jerky like the trailer brakes are locking up. But braking in a straight line I feel nothing wrong.

Also when I start from a stop the rear wheel will spin a bit so I have to take it easy.
Just to be clear, have you described two problems?

1. trailer brakes locking up; and
2. tow vehicle rear wheel spins a bit.

If one (or more) of your trailer brakes is out of adjustment, and locks up prematurely, could this cause both problems?

Maybe have another person identify which wheel on the trailer locks up, and check the tire for unusual wear. Probably a good idea to have your trailer brakes adjusted, and the pads inspected for wear also.

Good luck!

Peter
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Your tow vehicle Firestone tires would spin out when you were starting up from a dead stop?

Or did you mean the trailer tires spun out under these conditions?

Tow vehicle spins out on start from dead stop, especially when wet.
This truck has TOYO tires, LT275/65R20
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Just to be clear, have you described two problems?

1. trailer brakes locking up; and
2. tow vehicle rear wheel spins a bit.

If one (or more) of your trailer brakes is out of adjustment, and locks up prematurely, could this cause both problems?

Maybe have another person identify which wheel on the trailer locks up, and check the tire for unusual wear. Probably a good idea to have your trailer brakes adjusted, and the pads inspected for wear also.

Good luck!

Peter
Thats right, two problems.
I mentioned them together because I thought they may be related.
Also I'm not sure if the trailer brakes are in fact locking up.
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:00 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by mythbuster88 View Post
. . .
Also I'm not sure if the trailer brakes are in fact locking up.
Thanks for the two replies. Ascertaining which trailer wheel (if any) is locking up should be fairly easy to do. On level pavement with some sand on it, a light manual application of the brake controller should lock up any brakes which are grabbing first. Once identified, moving to clean dry pavement would permit further testing and adjustment of the brake controller as well.

Good luck!

Peter
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:19 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Your tow vehicle Firestone tires would spin out when you were starting up from a dead stop?

Or did you mean the trailer tires spun out under these conditions?

I had firestones on my tv and they were very slippery the more they wore. I could get wheel spin on take off on anything but dry pavement. As they wore down near the indicators they became outrite dangerous in the wet. They seem to be okay as trailer tires but are slippery on the tv. I would have used them as replacements but the michelins called my name. As new the firestones were okay with an occasional slip on acceleration, but as they wore close to the indicators they were slippery.
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:37 PM   #19
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Lift trailer one side at a time.. can you move each wheel similarly?

Grab tires, front and rear..try wiggle any direction... as you move.. are bearings ok?
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Old 05-05-2017, 02:53 PM   #20
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Turning while Braking

The habit to have is to finish braking before turning wheel. No exceptions for any external cause. Any vehicle, and any time or speed.

Anyone needing to rotate premium tires on a pickup before 25-30k miles is possessed by a truly bad habit.

Brakes should last 70-100k miles.

Factor that in. Too fast into turns, and late braking.

Loss of control accidents with travel trailers are entered as "too fast for conditions". Driver skill or experience is moot.

On some turns wil be the need to re-engage throttle just past turn apex to bring the trailer back into a sort of cohesive balance with the TV. To bring it around. Not all turns, but it's an ideal.

Positive tension at the hitch ball by the TV. Anything else is a primary contributing cause of accidents. No slack except under straight line conditions.

Brake controller should engage trailer brakes "harder" to maintain this positive tension by the TV.

Late braking screws things up. Causes premature wear, for one. Two, the rig is vulnerable in a turn, and with brakes on even more so. Think other vehicles and slick road surface.

Towing means better habits.

All said, the above items listed for you to check are on par. A good list to start with.

And, damned funny signature.
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