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Old 12-16-2019, 07:32 AM   #1
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vashon , Washington
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Trailer plug to truck issue.

Hello, all -

We had a new plug installed on our `68, along with a complete overhaul of the trailer brakes. We've had zero issues with it, until... we took it to a repair guy we thought was reputable. Turns out not to be the case.

This guy, without any authorization by us, told us our plug wasn't wired correctly. I said we've had zero issues with it. But now, after he's touched it, we get a "check trailer brakes" light in our truck.

Anybody have any idea what this guy did to it?

Thank you for any thoughts.
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Old 12-16-2019, 07:44 AM   #2
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Maybe this mechanic should touch the plug cord again and fix it no charge!
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Old 12-16-2019, 08:13 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airdreamers View Post
Maybe this mechanic should touch the plug cord again and fix it no charge!
ABSOLUTELY! Don’t accept anything less!
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Old 12-16-2019, 08:27 AM   #4
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I lived with that issue for a couple of years. I reworked all the grounds but still the connection issue was there.

It turned out that the brand new Ford OEM truck replacement receptacle had the blade that carried the electric brake signal bent just enough to make a bad connection. Historically the round pin plug was in favor with the users because it had much better pin to socket contact. You might be suffering from your mechanic bending the connector too much or just that pin. I think I used a small flat blade screwdriver to bend the pin/blade on the truck side.
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:25 AM   #5
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In the past, the normal position was with the PLUG index in the 12 position. I encountered this with my NEW ford. The plug index is in the 3 position; Ram 12 and GM in 9. Go figure
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:30 AM   #6
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This is a 2019 RAM 2500.

Thank you all for your input. I will NEVER go back to this guy. He did all sorts of things to our trailer without permission, charged us for it and said if we didn't pay he'd start charging us storage.

Horrible experience. I've heard of this happening to other people, first time for us.
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:36 AM   #7
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Maybe it was the mechanic, maybe not. And, just to make it clear, am not defending.

If not already done, might consider doing your own test to verify that at least the trailer plug connections are working correctly by jumping each port in the trailer connector to the 12v port. There are diagrams available on the Internet for which port is which. Just make sure to use a wire that is able to handle a brief application of the brakes.

If the trailer's plug tests out Ok, it will help narrow as to whether there is now an issue with the brakes themselves as the magnets can cause all sorts of fun when they start to die.

FWIW, new trucks with computerized senses can also make diagnosis fun with less than new trailers. So, like an earlier post, maybe it is the trailer, maybe it is the truck.
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:13 AM   #8
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Trailer Plug

We have had this problem for a couple of years. Thanks for this post. I now have a place to start sorting it out
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airtandem View Post
In the past, the normal position was with the PLUG index in the 12 position. I encountered this with my NEW ford. The plug index is in the 3 position; Ram 12 and GM in 9. Go figure


I think you’ll find the reference for 7 way plugs is the INDEX KEY not the physical position the receptacle is mounted in.
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:34 AM   #10
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Thank you for your input...

I really do appreciate it. I will pass all this along to the next shop.

I will restate that we had no issues until this guy messed with the plug, which we did not ask him to do.

The brakes, axles, tires, bearings were all completely overhauled - brand spanking new everything - just in October. Have not had one issue before this.
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:41 AM   #11
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Graciedog,

Can you tell us the year make and model of your tow vehicle?

If the trailer plug needs or was replaced the wiring should be connected to match the tow vehicle. Much easier to make corrections at the trailer plug and leave a assumed newer tow vehicle receptacle alone.

Start with simple stuff. Check turn signal lights, running light and brakes while connected to rig. But many tow vehicles receptacle has not done a good job of holding a plug in place especially those with the cap hinged at the bottom. It doesn’t hold like a top hinged cap does. You and try a small bungee cord to keep cover applying holding force to plug.

Good luck

Gary
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Old 12-16-2019, 11:01 AM   #12
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Get yourself one of these

This $10 tool was designed for the layman. I was having problems with my 1991 Excella and this tool can be used to eliminate the problem being in the truck lighting socket.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 12-16-2019, 04:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aznomad450 View Post
This $10 tool was designed for the layman. I was having problems with my 1991 Excella and this tool can be used to eliminate the problem being in the truck lighting socket.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
WOW< great test tool!
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Old 12-16-2019, 05:45 PM   #14
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Keep in mind that if your ‘68 had the original 7 conductor wiring, it’s different from modern trailers. It’s likely he wired it using modern standards which would conflict with this. Here is the diagram from the ‘68 owners manual.

Click image for larger version

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Old 12-18-2019, 09:59 AM   #15
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Our truck is a 2019 Ram. We've honestly never had an issue until this guy touched it. I will show my husband this thread and see what the heck was changed. I am very grateful for all of your input.

Since I'm here, can somebody tell me how I get your replies emailed to me? Or do I have to just check the forum each time?
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Old 12-18-2019, 10:10 AM   #16
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Gracie dog,

Not sure about the email might just have to copy paste.

I’m recommending leaving the truck seven way connector AS IS! Don’t change what’s not broken and just change the connection of the wires in the trailer end plug to match.

If someone can look under the truck and check the cables to the seven way receptacle it should look factory stock. If the previous repair involved any rewiring there I’d consider that to be the first area to fix.

Pics can help if you’re not sure.

Gary
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Old 12-19-2019, 09:32 AM   #17
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Hopefully this will help you or someone with this issue.

Check the wiring on the brakes themselves by tugging on the wire to make sure they have a good crimp/connection.

I'm restoring our '59 Tradewind so all of the electrical is new, installed new 7 way wiring (including pig tail), axle and brakes.

I'll try to keep this short
When it came time to test connecting the trailer to the truck I also had the "Trailer not connected", but it was intermittent, it would say connected, then not. I'd unplug it and plug it back in and it would say connected, I turned off the truck for a minute, started it back up (didn't move out of the seat or anything) and it said "not connected".
Over the next couple weeks I did all kinds of tests trying to figure it out, hooking up the truck to a different trailer worked, so it wasn't the truck. Adding a new 7 way on the pig tail (didn't work),

So I decided I would start from the brakes and check each connection and work forward. I tugged on one of the wires on the first wheel I checked and it came out of the butt connector (what the heck).

I had originally used a ratcheting crimp tool with semi-flat jaw thinking that was the best to use, turns out it wasn't.

After finding this wire easily pulled out I used a different type of crimper (w/notch). Connected to the trailer to the truck and it said "connected", tried again (connected), unplugged and plugged the 7 way back in (connected) YES..
So I redid all the connectors with the new crimpers. That was a huge relief.

This is the crimpers I used, huge difference.
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Old 12-19-2019, 10:19 AM   #18
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Tony,

I bought a ratcheting crimper and had some crimps pull out and it lost favor as a new fancy tool. Then on another forum a pro pointed out that the dies are directional this side for crimp and that side for crimping insulation and they are adjustable. So lesson learned and back into regular use.

Gary
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Old 12-20-2019, 07:59 AM   #19
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Thanks Gary, that's good to know. I'll check it out
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Old 12-22-2019, 10:07 AM   #20
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The new plug could also be a little loose. I was getting occasional error messages until I put electrical tape around the plug, one turn did it. I make sure both the plug and the socket are clean with fresh dielectric grease. It could be as simple as that.
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