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06-12-2012, 11:17 AM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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Trailer front electric jack
Hooked trailer to truck and started to raise the hitch to set the stabilizers (I think that is what they are called) and there was a snap within the jack tube.The lower part of the jack evidently broke loose inside the shaft and now the jack motor operates but is not connected to lower or raise the trailer. The lifting part of the jack can be moved freely in and out--not connected to anything. I have the lifting device removed from the trailer and there doesn't appear to be anyway to disassemble. Can I repair or will a new purchase be necessary?
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06-12-2012, 11:26 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1995 30' Excella
Bowie
, Maryland
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,345
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Wow, that's serious. For mine, the entire jack/tube assembly had to be replaced (I bent mine). Mine was just under $200, but you have to see what brand and model you have before you can price them out.
__________________
1995 Airstream Classic 30' Excella 1000
2014 Ram 2500 Crew Cab with Cummins 6.7L Diesel
Sold but not forgotten: 1991 Airstream B190
Sold: 2006 F-250 6.0L Powerstroke Supercab
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06-12-2012, 11:30 AM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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Well, I broke the curbside rear window last week to a tune of $200....whats 200 more? I'm beginning to wonder......Thanks for a fast reply. Tom
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06-12-2012, 11:47 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Flying Cloud
Gig Harbor
, Washington
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 780
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We bent ours too. You have to be careful hitching when it is fully extended. I was able to straighten it with a hydraulic press.
Dan
__________________
TAC
Hope is not a plan.
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06-12-2012, 11:57 AM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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Mine wasn't caused by hooking up to TV; it happened when I was hooked up and was lifting the trailer to hook up the stabilizers. There was a snap and the lifting (inner) portion of the jack will not raise/lower now. No external damage. Center part is movable with hand.
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06-12-2012, 12:08 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Flying Cloud
Gig Harbor
, Washington
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 780
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They come off easily. Three bolts and an electrical connection. Take it off and see what you can. Have you checked the fuse in the electrical feed. Because ours was bent the strain on the motor trying to pull the bent shaft up into the sleeve kept blowing fuses.
Dan
__________________
TAC
Hope is not a plan.
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06-12-2012, 12:43 PM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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I got mine off without any problems. My question now is, the portion that slides in and out is not connected to anything---motor on my workbench---can be pulled in and out with the hand and no resistance except it sounds like there are gears within. But......not connected. Apparently something broke off inside and the "guts" are going to have to be removed to repair---if that is possible...That is what I need to know--repair or trash---fuse fine.
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06-12-2012, 12:47 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Flying Cloud
Gig Harbor
, Washington
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 780
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Sorry, can't help you there. It sounds like the screw snapped. Can you turn the top gear with the manual socket AS gives you. I would think if you can turn the top and the bottom shaft is not responding you need a new screw. Kinda like the newer garage door openers.
Dan
__________________
TAC
Hope is not a plan.
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06-12-2012, 03:27 PM
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#9
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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danlehosky....My career was with the federal government in a very important job mostly overseas. If I had screwed up as much with the job as I am with Bambi, we might be speaking another language. I have never had so many problems with any equipment (I was a technician believe it or not). I have been reading posts of individuals reaching their limit and trying something else. I hope that time never comes, but it has me thinking.....the unit is working great utilizing your suggestion (off the trailer). I will put it back on tomorrow and see what happens. It is great having people like you to turn to when we have a problem. Thank you, Tom
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06-12-2012, 04:44 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Mantua
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,062
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I wonder if you just hit the weight limit for the jack. A pain in the neck, but you should be able to fix it. Jim
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06-12-2012, 04:57 PM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigzagguzzi
I wonder if you just hit the weight limit for the jack. A pain in the neck, but you should be able to fix it. Jim
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Ya know, you're probably hitting on something. I was lifting the front of the trailer and rear of the truck so I could attach the stablizers. I hope I was doing it correctly: lifting trailer/truck until the stablizer arms can be attached. Will hook jack up in the morning and see what happens. Thanks Tom
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06-12-2012, 05:05 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Flying Cloud
Gig Harbor
, Washington
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 780
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I'm surprised you didn't blow the fuse. Thats what happened when our shaft was bent.
__________________
TAC
Hope is not a plan.
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06-12-2012, 06:24 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Sounds to me like it just broke internally. I don't think there is any disassembly fix on the jack tubes that can be made with any of them that I have seen. Time for a new one I suspect.
most of them have a 3000 to 4000 # lifting capacity, so I doubt that you caused the problem by lifting the back of the truck/trailer front to attach the spring bars (which is what they are generally called, not the stabilizer bars). I have done that for years with mine and it always works.
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06-12-2012, 07:57 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls
, South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
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There was actually very little about the Airstream trailer that I hated . . . but the electric tongue jack made that list the first time I used it. I actually was able to replace it with a front mounted crank sidewinder jack. No electric, no fuss.
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06-12-2012, 08:05 PM
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#15
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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Zigzagguzzi above suggested something to try in the morning. Presently, jack detatched and operating the device with tool supplied. She runs up and down like it is supposed to and the middle slidding portion seems to be locked in like it is supposed to be---Guys, many thanks to you all for suggestions and information....And...Spring bars noted...now all I have to do is remember it. Thanks.
Splitrock--I knew I had read that somewhere (you probably told someone else) and thought that might be the way to go...now I am almost convinced--thank U 2
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06-12-2012, 08:21 PM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
2008 27' Safari FB SE
Frederickburg
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock
There was actually very little about the Airstream trailer that I hated . . . but the electric tongue jack made that list the first time I used it. I actually was able to replace it with a front mounted crank sidewinder jack. No electric, no fuss.
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I took Splitrock's advice and ordered this manual jack for my 27 FB. It works great and keeps my arms in shape.
Bulldog A-Frame Trailer Jack HB-155010
Good luck,
KDS
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06-12-2012, 08:32 PM
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#17
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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kds, you're the second to suggest that....three may be a charm if anyone else suggest that.....
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06-12-2012, 09:45 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls
, South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
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I remember when tractors first came out with electric starters they still had a backup crank starter. That's how the electric tongue jacks should be made. The mickey mouse jack that came on my trailer required removing the motor by removing 4 bolts at the flange in order to use a 1/2 size hand crank.
It's dark, the wind is blowing, it's raining, and I'm trying to remove a motor on an electric jack so I can hitch up . . . or unhitch. Not for me! Why not design one that's duel fuel?
I may put an electric jack back on when I get old, but them again I'll probably just go back to building bird houses.
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06-13-2012, 12:20 AM
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#19
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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I have two Reese electric tongue jacks, one on the Caravel and one on the 20' Argosy. Both were made in 1984/5. Both work faultlessly and have for almost 30 years.
This spring I purchased HF (cause it was cheap) for the Argosy 22. Hunk of crap, and I took it back. Got a Husky Brute which sounded like it was a good one. It is OK, but not even in the ballpark with the old Reese's. It is slow and wobbles even though they tell you how great it is with the "recirculating ball" screw jack post. Some say the Barker's are good, haven't tried one yet. The A&E looks ok, but again, no experience with it.
I want a 3rd Reese from the 80's. Anyone got one for sale?
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06-13-2012, 04:14 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
2005 19' Safari
GLENDALE
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,453
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We have an Atwood Electric Tongue Jack, and the manual crank handle inserts directly in the front of the motor housing. See page 4, illustration 1, item C - Manual Crank Handle, in link below:
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...2011.21.07.pdf
As mentioned in other posts, we keep the top of the jack covered with an old boat fender that has one end cut off, secured with a bungee cord. This protects most of the mechanical parts from sun, rain, snow, rocks and dirt, road debris, etc.; and our jack looks and operates same as new after five years of use. The only maintenance I have done on it is to replace the light bulb.
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