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Old 06-12-2012, 11:17 AM   #1
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Trailer front electric jack

Hooked trailer to truck and started to raise the hitch to set the stabilizers (I think that is what they are called) and there was a snap within the jack tube.The lower part of the jack evidently broke loose inside the shaft and now the jack motor operates but is not connected to lower or raise the trailer. The lifting part of the jack can be moved freely in and out--not connected to anything. I have the lifting device removed from the trailer and there doesn't appear to be anyway to disassemble. Can I repair or will a new purchase be necessary?
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:26 AM   #2
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Wow, that's serious. For mine, the entire jack/tube assembly had to be replaced (I bent mine). Mine was just under $200, but you have to see what brand and model you have before you can price them out.
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:30 AM   #3
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Well, I broke the curbside rear window last week to a tune of $200....whats 200 more? I'm beginning to wonder......Thanks for a fast reply. Tom
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:47 AM   #4
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We bent ours too. You have to be careful hitching when it is fully extended. I was able to straighten it with a hydraulic press.

Dan
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:57 AM   #5
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Mine wasn't caused by hooking up to TV; it happened when I was hooked up and was lifting the trailer to hook up the stabilizers. There was a snap and the lifting (inner) portion of the jack will not raise/lower now. No external damage. Center part is movable with hand.
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:08 PM   #6
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They come off easily. Three bolts and an electrical connection. Take it off and see what you can. Have you checked the fuse in the electrical feed. Because ours was bent the strain on the motor trying to pull the bent shaft up into the sleeve kept blowing fuses.

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Old 06-12-2012, 12:43 PM   #7
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I got mine off without any problems. My question now is, the portion that slides in and out is not connected to anything---motor on my workbench---can be pulled in and out with the hand and no resistance except it sounds like there are gears within. But......not connected. Apparently something broke off inside and the "guts" are going to have to be removed to repair---if that is possible...That is what I need to know--repair or trash---fuse fine.
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:47 PM   #8
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Sorry, can't help you there. It sounds like the screw snapped. Can you turn the top gear with the manual socket AS gives you. I would think if you can turn the top and the bottom shaft is not responding you need a new screw. Kinda like the newer garage door openers.

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Old 06-12-2012, 03:27 PM   #9
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danlehosky....My career was with the federal government in a very important job mostly overseas. If I had screwed up as much with the job as I am with Bambi, we might be speaking another language. I have never had so many problems with any equipment (I was a technician believe it or not). I have been reading posts of individuals reaching their limit and trying something else. I hope that time never comes, but it has me thinking.....the unit is working great utilizing your suggestion (off the trailer). I will put it back on tomorrow and see what happens. It is great having people like you to turn to when we have a problem. Thank you, Tom
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:44 PM   #10
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I wonder if you just hit the weight limit for the jack. A pain in the neck, but you should be able to fix it. Jim
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigzagguzzi View Post
I wonder if you just hit the weight limit for the jack. A pain in the neck, but you should be able to fix it. Jim

Ya know, you're probably hitting on something. I was lifting the front of the trailer and rear of the truck so I could attach the stablizers. I hope I was doing it correctly: lifting trailer/truck until the stablizer arms can be attached. Will hook jack up in the morning and see what happens. Thanks Tom
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:05 PM   #12
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I'm surprised you didn't blow the fuse. Thats what happened when our shaft was bent.
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:24 PM   #13
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Sounds to me like it just broke internally. I don't think there is any disassembly fix on the jack tubes that can be made with any of them that I have seen. Time for a new one I suspect.

most of them have a 3000 to 4000 # lifting capacity, so I doubt that you caused the problem by lifting the back of the truck/trailer front to attach the spring bars (which is what they are generally called, not the stabilizer bars). I have done that for years with mine and it always works.
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:57 PM   #14
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There was actually very little about the Airstream trailer that I hated . . . but the electric tongue jack made that list the first time I used it. I actually was able to replace it with a front mounted crank sidewinder jack. No electric, no fuss.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:05 PM   #15
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Zigzagguzzi above suggested something to try in the morning. Presently, jack detatched and operating the device with tool supplied. She runs up and down like it is supposed to and the middle slidding portion seems to be locked in like it is supposed to be---Guys, many thanks to you all for suggestions and information....And...Spring bars noted...now all I have to do is remember it. Thanks.

Splitrock--I knew I had read that somewhere (you probably told someone else) and thought that might be the way to go...now I am almost convinced--thank U 2
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock View Post
There was actually very little about the Airstream trailer that I hated . . . but the electric tongue jack made that list the first time I used it. I actually was able to replace it with a front mounted crank sidewinder jack. No electric, no fuss.
I took Splitrock's advice and ordered this manual jack for my 27 FB. It works great and keeps my arms in shape.

Bulldog A-Frame Trailer Jack HB-155010

Good luck,

KDS
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:32 PM   #17
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kds, you're the second to suggest that....three may be a charm if anyone else suggest that.....
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:45 PM   #18
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I remember when tractors first came out with electric starters they still had a backup crank starter. That's how the electric tongue jacks should be made. The mickey mouse jack that came on my trailer required removing the motor by removing 4 bolts at the flange in order to use a 1/2 size hand crank.

It's dark, the wind is blowing, it's raining, and I'm trying to remove a motor on an electric jack so I can hitch up . . . or unhitch. Not for me! Why not design one that's duel fuel?

I may put an electric jack back on when I get old, but them again I'll probably just go back to building bird houses.
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:20 AM   #19
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I have two Reese electric tongue jacks, one on the Caravel and one on the 20' Argosy. Both were made in 1984/5. Both work faultlessly and have for almost 30 years.

This spring I purchased HF (cause it was cheap) for the Argosy 22. Hunk of crap, and I took it back. Got a Husky Brute which sounded like it was a good one. It is OK, but not even in the ballpark with the old Reese's. It is slow and wobbles even though they tell you how great it is with the "recirculating ball" screw jack post. Some say the Barker's are good, haven't tried one yet. The A&E looks ok, but again, no experience with it.

I want a 3rd Reese from the 80's. Anyone got one for sale?
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:14 AM   #20
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We have an Atwood Electric Tongue Jack, and the manual crank handle inserts directly in the front of the motor housing. See page 4, illustration 1, item C - Manual Crank Handle, in link below:

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...2011.21.07.pdf

As mentioned in other posts, we keep the top of the jack covered with an old boat fender that has one end cut off, secured with a bungee cord. This protects most of the mechanical parts from sun, rain, snow, rocks and dirt, road debris, etc.; and our jack looks and operates same as new after five years of use. The only maintenance I have done on it is to replace the light bulb.
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