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07-04-2013, 06:12 PM
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#101
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Rivet Master
2014 30' FB FC Bunk
Hoover
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,530
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I I do self install I can get into the hitch for $1650 my costs - but they have not told me how much they would charge me for the install so tack onto that te install costs - so perhaps +200-300 bucks?
How long would it take me?
I'm not not handy but I'm also not very handy...I'm sure I could do it??
Or just have dealer install....not sure
__________________
“The atoms of our bodies are traceable to stars that manufactured them...We are not figuratively, but literally stardust.”
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07-04-2013, 06:43 PM
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#102
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,406
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Someone local might come by for moral support. . And to make historical pics. They might have tools and know how to use them. ????
Edit: you can have the dealer install a no-drill option to get you home.
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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07-04-2013, 06:48 PM
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#103
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4 Rivet Member
2006 30' Classic
Yonkers
, New York
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek
I I do self install I can get into the hitch for $1650 my costs - but they have not told me how much they would charge me for the install so tack onto that te install costs - so perhaps +200-300 bucks?
How long would it take me?
I'm not not handy but I'm also not very handy...I'm sure I could do it??
Or just have dealer install....not sure
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You need someone else to be responsible for any adjustment needed during & after installation since you are not so handy. If the stinger is too short or too long, you don't want to deal with the cost of swapping i.e shipping. With warranty, you swap stinger for free but pay $32 X 2 (UPS) shipping. If dealer install then you let them deal with the shipping cost if they order the wrong stinger size. Sometimes the TT is not level after installation despite pre measurement and adjustment have to be made including but not limited to stinger change. Also if the dealer is not used to Hensley installation, take your Hensley / PP to someone that knows and pay them to do it right the first time. Just my 2 cents.
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07-04-2013, 10:08 PM
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#104
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek
How difficult would a self install be ?
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The ProPride is easy to install but requires access to big wrenches and a floor jack to lift it in place would be good. No drilling, it's all bolt on. The ProPride truck receiver drop bar is adjustable in height, the Hensley drop bar is not and must be exchanged as needed.
A small Airstream shop in Tucson put mine on for $200 in the middle of a trip, first ProPride but they had done many Hensley.
doug k
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07-05-2013, 12:48 AM
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#105
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Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
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I was very surprised at the movement of the AS with every passing "bow wave". I had never felt any indication of loss of control when driving and DW said she hadn't either. After towing for 18 seasons, I was used to the 18 wheeler "push". I never realized just how much movement there actually was.
I'd make this challenge to anyone driving a non-VPP hitch. The TT moves all the time.
Keeping it straight-on with the TV is night & day.
The test of any of these hitches is in the combined rig remaining upright and lane-centered havng come down from highway travel speed at the highest rate of deceleration. And this despite any obstacles of traffic (volume & type, not just driver error), road surface (tripping hazard plus surface imperfections or surface type), weather and problems inherent to TV and TT.
The best hitch is dirt cheap compared to any new or used RV. Why it is seen as optional is the mystery (to kep things polite).
.
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07-13-2013, 10:17 PM
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#106
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Rivet Master
2017 30' Classic
Anna Maria
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,642
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For what this is worth.
We tow a 2013 International 31' with a 2012 F-150 Ecoboost, 3.7 axle and heavy duty tow package that includes anti sway control. We have the 31' fro 3 months and previously we were towing an International 28' with the same rig. I have a 12,00 LBS friction bar and weight distribution e-2 Hitch. Most of our trips are between Sarasota and Chicago through the mountains and Atlanta etc. In reasonably light traffic which is not often on this route, I set the cruise at 70 MPH and in heavy traffic at 65. I have had absolutely no problems. The hitch is performing solidly and it is a breeze to hook up with. The dealer installed it originally however they did a lousy job so when I switched trailers I did the installation and tweaking myself. Yes I do notice when a semi passes. I believe the notion that there is a hitch out there that totally anchors you and gives you a solid drive in all weather and traffic conditions is a is a bunk. In my younger years I use to drive Semi trucks and we use to rock each other passing. In my humble opinion the two most expensive hitches are also the most complicated. It is like mounting another piece of machinery on to the trailer. I am a firm believer of the kiss method.
Keep it Solid and Simple. I learned that during my 45 years in the heavy Highway Construction Industry. By the way I average 11 MPG on these trips.
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07-14-2013, 06:20 AM
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#107
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Denver
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
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Like Lucky 2 above, I drove a semi in my youth. He makes salient points. I have an old Tahoe and Reese dual cam setup. What I've noticed is if the setup is too tight, and I mean by one link in the chain, you get the tail wagging the dog effect. When the setup is correct it's a dream to tow.
Personally I want to know that the trailer is there. I like it just a tad looser so I can feel it and adjust my driving. I do not like the rig to feel like it is one large unit as it tends to feel as if the front end is floating slightly and I am being pushed down the road.
I do feel a tiny amount of bow wave for the large rigs when they pass, but to me it is negligible.
My trailer, when loaded correctly weighs approximately 5500. Lbs so the Tahoe z71 is completely adequate for towing.
I also have a Hayes Genesis brake system which I'd use in a heart beat to straighten the trailer out should it become squirrelly.
For the folks who had the roll over, I'm very glad that you're ok. A truck and trailer is just stuff, human life is irreplaceable.
To me this discussion is like Budweiser vs any good Belgian brew. They'll both get you there - it's just a matter of taste... And empirical data.
To Pharmgeek. If you are not handy, installing a hitch setup may not be a good place to start. Good luck!
__________________
Lucky Dave, Denver NC
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07-14-2013, 07:12 AM
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#108
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Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
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Hi, Lucky2 and welcome to AIR!
I can make comparisons between hitch types over forty years of types of tow vehicles as well as travel trailers, and use commercial experience of all types to round it off . . and tell you that a VPP type hitch makes a much superior system. I can do maneuvers with my rig that would have you in the ditch with yours even with your TTs superior suspension (and even if you had a TV with superior handling). The same is true against any 5'er as well.
That is how much better a VPP hitch really is.
Your trailer is better than your pickup through the slalom . . that is the weak link that needs the help is a way of looking at it just as explaining the difference between hitch designs as being sway-resistant and sway-eliminating. The performance envelope is wider.
Driver skill is an okay thing, but risk minimization is the better approach where minimizing untoward motions by the rig trumps half-measures , , that is keeping it simple where the driver already has his hands full.
An AIRSTREAM trailer by virtue of its design (aero, low center-of-gravity and fully independent suspension) was the important choice in combined rig performance. A tow vehicle of the same rough spec would have been second. The quality of the lash-up (verified numbers per scale values) is next, and the hitch design very close to it . . loss of control by the driver (the usual citation) can be helped from several directions. Don't be fooled by an excellent trailer into thinking an inferior hitch is "adequate" as a few dollars won't matter at all when it counts.
The rest of the day on the road means a more rested driver with this hitch type and I know you won't discount that aspect.
Nearly every "objection" to the best hitch type comes down to difficulties in understanding value received for monies paid. In this instance it is clear to anyone who has made the change. Would you exchange the 4-whl disc brakes on your TV for 4-whl drums? You wouldn't, any more than you'd swap for bias-ply tires either . . that is the quality of the difference.
So, sure, you'd could get down the road with drums, bias-plies and hydraulic shocks . . but you already know you'll replace those wearing items with OEM-spec or better. Just as with those this hitch type is pennies compared to the cost of the combined rig. Keep that perspective on the discussion as to value received.
I bought my Hensley Arrow just a few months before the Pro Pride brand came out. A superior design I'd have much rather have had (and may still).
Braking distance is the coupling factor to hitch type and lash-up. Disc brakes on the TT not only "eliminate" fade, they significantly shorten the distance in total . . done right, even shorter than your pickup when solo.
But one wants a hitch which can make the best of this as well.
.
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07-18-2013, 01:00 PM
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#109
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Rivet Master
2017 30' Classic
Anna Maria
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,642
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To slomover.
Should the time come when I feel unsafe in any way at all with my current hitch, I will be getting read of it. One thing I did was that I did not go with the minimum recommended by the MFG. I went 30% over. It made all the difference. As it is now it is working beautifully, and some times I almost forget that I have a trailer attached.
Incidentally, my hitch cost $ 900.00.
Peace of mid of course is priceless and the if the very best is that one needs to feel save by all means do it and forget the cost.
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07-18-2013, 01:37 PM
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#110
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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"I believe the notion that there is a hitch out there that totally anchors you and gives you a solid drive in all weather and traffic conditions is a is a bunk......."
What's a "bunk"?.....
It's good you "believe" and do not state that you know. You can't appreciate towing with one of the anchors 'til you've tried it.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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07-18-2013, 03:10 PM
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#111
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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Agree Bob. I had no idea towing could be that stable and comfortable until we got the Hensley/ProPride design.
doug k
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07-18-2013, 04:01 PM
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#112
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4 Rivet Member
2001 25' Safari
London
, Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky2
To slomover.
Should the time come when I feel unsafe in any way at all with my current hitch, I will be getting [rid] of it.
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Towing a 30 foot heavy with a F150 with a non-vpp hitch, if you tow long enough and far enough...that day could come. To be clear; that's not to say you're unsafe or any such thing. All I'm saying is that if you tow long enough chances are you will experience a situation that will reveal the weakness of a non-vpp hitch.
Just sayin...
__________________
Gary & Debbie
2001 Safari 25 SS
2011 Chevy Traverse 3.6L AWD • Hensley • DirecLink • McKesh
Set-up by Can-Am RV
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