Towing an Airstream with 1000 pound tongue weight

[Daquenzer]

Question to the OP: What is your max tow capacity of your TV?

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Daquenzer

Question to the OP: What is your max tow capacity of your TV?

Max Tow capacity is not the only issue...a VW can "tow" a heavy trailer way beyond it's specs...there are several folks here who exceed that all the time; it is the Max Payload...passengers (including driver), cargo, and tongue weight you want to be careful about...thats what all the hub-bub is about all the time here in these discussions...the door sticker is what you should be paying attention to, and not exceeding, to be within vehicle specs. Some folks want to know, and some folks don't care because they are driving what they want to drive to tow..."It was a safe trip last time, so should be good next time" as they are over the spec limits... right?

[jcl]

One source of confusion is that the receiver is not designed to just one single limit. It is near impossible to design a component so that it hits the rated design capacity in multiple aspects at the same time. One consideration will be more critical than the others.

There is the strength of the receiver in being able to handle the tongue load applied. There is the strength of the receiver in being able to handle the torsion loads of the WD equipment. There is the knock on effect of rear axle loading, based on the geometry (eg rear overhang) but also impacted by how the WD is set up. There is the knock on effect on vehicle dynamic stability, which is also impacted by vehicle speed and height of the various loads.

A receiver that is conveniently listed at 10% of the tow rating is likely either due to the limiting design factor being receiver strength, and the tow rating is then a result of the 10% calculation, or the tow rating is the designer's working limit, and the nominated receiver limit is simply a 10% math calculation.

It is likely that the receiver in question can handle more than the load label on it states. But that needs some engineering judgement to decide, it shouldn't simply be changed because of which way the wind is blowing.

Personally, I always respect axle load ratings, as they are regulated for good reason, and I would adjust the WD to set the combination up safely. I have less concern over "rated payload" since it is a derived calculation, it isn't the starting point. If I was planning to exceed a receiver rating (as may be required here) I would use my engineering judgement combined with an ongoing inspection program, but I would most likely also contact CanAm who have set up this specific vehicle and ask for their recommendation on strengthening the receiver, and if they recommend doing that in this specific case. They will know. And if I did decide to modify or exceed the factory rating of the receiver, or even if I didn't, I would weigh the combination to ensure that I was within axle load ratings, which are safety critical items.

[DCPAS]

Originally Posted by switz

So the number is before propane is added to the tanks.

The brochure for my year (2019) says that both hitch weight and unit base weight is "with LP & Batteries."

[Fungus]

Originally Posted by DCPAS

The brochure for my year (2019) says that both hitch weight and unit base weight is "with LP & Batteries."

But what does the scale say?

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Fungus

But what does the scale say?

Scale?...I have an APP.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Texarado]

As a way to help reduce tongue weight, how many of you have traveled with only one of your 30# propane tanks? I saw on another thread someone mentioned losing the spare tire. I’m less inclined to lose the spare, but doing without a 30# propane seems more manageable if necessary.

Presumably the new tankless helps reduce propane consumption and will help increase longevity of a single propane tank.

(I’ll spare everyone the question of how a Cybertruck will do towing the AS.)

[Adiredneck]

Concisely... No.

[Capt who]

If someone is leaving a spare tire or a propane tank behind they need to start shopping for a bigger truck.....

[Texarado]

On the spare, I agree. But on the propane, there are many current and older travel trailers that have 2 (or even 1) 20#. So, leaving a 30# behind doesn’t seem like complete blasphemy.

A larger TV is in my future, but not for another year-ish. So this is really what to do to still allow for safe travel between now and then.

[Ray Eklund]

I like my Equalizer Hitch with 750# bars when towing with the 2016 Tundra and a 25 foot rear bed International... fully loaded (fresh water, closet, pantry, refrigerator, etc.) and the Tundra with tools, shovel, two water jugs empty until ready to go Off the Grid, etc.).

The Leaf Springs in the Tundra were FLAT. Any adjustment of the Equalizer made the ride with leaf springs harder and had to back off the hitch setting to back to level.

I did not need scales to show me that my Tundra and 25 foot International were at maximum... if not more. There was NO Spring left on the rear axle... it was maxed out. I could have reduced the bed weight by removing the Topper and maybe 125 pounds... but that protected the contents for camping needs.

Thus going to the F250/F350 options and found a good deal on a new Diesel F350 4x4 that the two added leaf springs contact the lower group when fully loaded, as designed. The 1000# Equalizer Bars, with level tow vehicle and Airstream having a small drop at the ball... often has no weight distribution. I could tow on the Ball and the sway bars only add to my security... which even the vehicle weight overcomes cross winds and all other 'mischief' when improper tow vehicle and trailer combinations are MAXED.

If you are towing an Airstream with a Tundra and you look at the rear leaf springs... you are maxed out if the leaf springs are FLAT. I am a big fan of Tundra's... but not for towing a heavy trailer. The F350 tows the 27 foot with ease.

The Tundra and the F250/F350 also have BIG Brake Rotors and Pads... you need to consider stopping, as well.

Check the leaf springs. If you have coils, inserting the coil hardware to stiffen the ride might work... but then again... you are maxed out.

[DCPAS]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

Any adjustment of the Equalizer made the ride with leaf springs harder and had to back off the hitch setting to back to level.

Did you mistype something here?

[uncle_bob]

Hi

How much propane you need to carry depends on how much you will go through on this or that trip. In the middle of the summer, you likely will not go through a whole lot. If you are out here or there in the fall or spring and it's dropping below freezing at night .... you will go through quite a bit of propane. If it's winter and below freezing all day .... yikes ....

It's easy to say that you won't be out when it's cold. Next thing you know, you are out to Yellowstone in late September. Surprise !!! they call that white stuff on the ground snow ...

You very much *do* need to heat the trailer in these conditions. Having the pipes freeze is *not* something you want to have happen.

We have two 40 pound tanks. There have been trips that drained them both.

Bob

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by DCPAS

Did you mistype something here?

No. I just could have gone on and on to explain...but here is how a sentence becomes a Thesis...

*****
My front end on the Tundra was high and my attempt to transfer weight from the rear to the front, only made the ride ROUGH. The leaf springs were flat and resisted going into an arch the opposite direction.

Many would say... get this other brand of Hitch. Why? The situation was already not satisfactory for ME. My tow vehicle was not capable and I changed the vehicle to what was appropriate. No issue now towing... If riding a horse gives you saddle sores... find another saddle or horse? Your posterior needs to BEEF UP.

This is why I wanted a 3/4 ton tow vehicle and ended up with a 1 ton (has an extra leaf spring on each side, that does not engage until weight is applied onto the rear axle is the difference). When the trailer is attached these 'extra leaf springs' would get the initial weight. Anyone with a F350 can probably explain why and how... You see it.

I enjoy the F350 as a vehicle driving and towing.

It is a choice and the 'stiff' ride is never an issue. Some may feel the 'pea under their mattress', but some of us just understand that there are Trucks for pleasure... and Working Trucks.

There are Lap Dogs and Working Dogs out West. Those who have one or the other, know the difference.

IF anyone tries to adjust their Hitch of any brand and the ride does improve OR worse... you may know, but just avoid doing what would work best. Get a Tow Vehicle that can haul all of this WEIGHT... or get a Lighter Trailer.

Brake rotors are for stopping. Leaf Springs are for carrying a load, but not finding ways to add bladders, etc. for them to do carry weight they were not designed to manage. It is a slight of hand to get by.

Engines... Rear Differential Ratios... Transmissions... Leaf Springs... BRAKES...

I did not mention color, trim options, window tinting, moon roof, interior leather or carpeting or audio enhancements. These options are not needed to tow. Just the basics. City Cowboy pickups. These are nice... but get to the BASICS FIRST. Towing.

The F350 could tow on the ball. I could have used 750# bars, rather than the 1000# bars. When sitting level, with a slight nose down on the trailer, slight nose down... I can go to these Bars and often can swing them out with no or little effort. The hitch adjustment did most of the work. The sway bars are like adding a wrist watch and ear rings... if I end up hauling an elephant in the pickup bed. Seriously. Stop me when you see us out camping.

My tow vehicle is on many posts. It rides level, and comfortable. Some say that this will cause my Rivets to Pop and damage to the trailer. I had a 2006 Toyota pickup towing a 23 foot Safari... rivets popped on the interior. Hinges came loose.

There is not one correct way to tow. Just many more ways to NOT.

Thank you for following this. I need not even post and save myself alienating myself from the 'Airstream Family'... but some of us want to offer alternatives to the majority. Serves us well and we never have to ask... Why did this happen to ME? Tools are available at a Hardware Store. Knowledge is not...

[DCPAS]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

No. I just could have gone on and on to explain...but here is how a sentence becomes a Thesis...

Thanks for the explanation Ray. I inadvertently ended up with too much weight distribution after installing a different shank to remedy a nose high problem. I did not notice any particular ride degradation with that change, but then I have a softer springed SUV so maybe I just didn't notice.

I am still not following how adding more distribution could not unflatten your leaf springs or cause a rough ride. It seems to me that restoring some spring compliance in the rear and restoring weight to the front would improve ride, but obviously there is something more going on which I do not understand.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by DCPAS

Thanks for the explanation Ray. I inadvertently ended up with too much weight distribution after installing a different shank to remedy a nose high problem. I did not notice any particular ride degradation with that change, but then I have a softer springed SUV so maybe I just didn't notice.

I am still not following how adding more distribution could not unflatten your leaf springs or cause a rough ride. It seems to me that restoring some spring compliance in the rear and restoring weight to the front would improve ride, but obviously there is something more going on which I do not understand.

Watch a few WD (weight distribution) webistes or Youtubes about what WD actually accomplishes when set up properly, and that will help you. You want to "distribute" the weight back to the front of your TV (tow vehicle) and to your TT (. You gain better control/handling and eliminate proposing in many casses... Here are some youtubes to help you...also, check MFG of WDH and see their explaination on how each one works. Your Tow Vehicle Payload max number is also important to understand...your SUV may be too small to safely tow your AS...check that also. (Lots of data here on this topic!)
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...hs-att-att_001

[Hermes]

Originally Posted by DCPAS

I am still not following how adding more distribution could not unflatten your leaf springs or cause a rough ride. It seems to me that restoring some spring compliance in the rear and restoring weight to the front would improve ride, but obviously there is something more going on which I do not understand.

I would suggest that you also consider the impact of excessive WD on the trailer itself; been there, done that:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f23...am-225389.html

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Capt who

If someone is leaving a spare tire or a propane tank behind they need to start shopping for a bigger truck.....

^
👍

Not necessarily bigger, but at least one spec'd to handle the job.

You can't tweek the payload, TW or WD.

Best to start off with what's needed right off the bat.

Bob
🇺🇸

[JeffE]

The purpose of the WD hitch is to apply [vertical] torque to the receiver, thus forcing some of the actual load to the front axle. The heavier the bars, the more load is sifted from the back axle to the front.

The only weight added by the hitch is the weight of the hitch components themselves. So going to heavier bars only affects weight in that the larger bars may weigh marginally more than the small bars.

Using a CAT scale to get the actual weight on both axles will show you the total added weight (tongue weight + hitch weight). Just get a baseline w/o the trailer or hitch installed. You've got a door sticker that tells the maximum weight each axle can handle. It'll also show how you're distributing the added weight (hitch + tongue) between the axles.

If the added weight (hitch + tongue) exceeds the receiver's capacity, you probably need a different receiver.

Jeff

[sarge12212]

Just quick opinion. You have too much weight for not enough truck. Even a WD hitch leaves you too close for comfort. Get a TW that will EASILY tow your trailer without WD, but with sway control. Then add the WD, for added peace of mind, if you need it. 😎✌