towing a 30' Classic

[angustami]

Can I do this with my Yukon Denali?

[SteveH]

Yes, but it will be marginal on power, and you may not like it. It would handle better if it's the Yukon XL?

[terryV]

No, you need a Kenworth or Peterbuilt to do it.

Of course you can. Everyone seems to think you need to be able to charge up mountains at full speed or you are under powered.

With a proper hitch and brake control you will be just fine. Yes, you will be a bit underpowered on hills, but so what. It's a vacation, not a race.

[slowmover]

Details on the vehicle will help. Year, model, 4WD, etc. Door placard info and that from GM Towing Guide type sources. FAWR, RAWR, GVWR, GCWR.

Hitch receiver specifics of TW and WD info. Automatic rear leveling?

Multi week trips? Five passengers? Carrying a big payload? Trips exclusively to the Rockies for summer family trips and fall hunting trips? Generalities help, here.

For your reading:

A ProPride hitch and TUSON electronic antisway are state of the current art.

The TUSON DIRECLINK brake controller and antilock trailer disc brakes are worth your reading.

The better the setup on the TT, the easier the TV s job.

SteveH, you still have one of your scale tickets with TW? Or that we can calculate from the normal three readings?

[angustami]

I have a proride hitch
It's a 2010 Yukon Denali 4 wheel dr
Just me 185 lbs
The wife 100 lbs
And two small dogs 20 lbs total

[angustami]

Oops have brake control also

[slowmover]

Need either a picture of the drivers door placard or all the info posted.

Same for hitch receiver.

4WD or AWD

1500 or 2500

Rear gear ratio (sometimes on glovebox tag)

Tire size and load index from sidewall

Etc

GMC lists plenty of variations per 2010 Towing Guide online.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by slowmover

SteveH, you still have one of your scale tickets with TW? Or that we can calculate from the normal three readings?

This is all I have, and this was with an '08 GMC 3/4 ton Duramax, and I don't have any other tickets, but I remember the tongue weight on mine as used was right at 1,000lbs. I think it would be safe to figure the trailer weight at 8,000.

[slowmover]

TT axle weight of 7,300lbs; and with A/S pdf showing 7200 and 730 a low but acceptable 10-11%; and a GVWR of 8600lbs, or maybe

7900 at .92% as fair load. 11% for TW at 870lbs.

With FALR achieved, maybe at 700lbs on both TV axles.

600lb payload otherwise to be conservative.

1,300lb onto TV when loaded for camping, hitched and WD applied.

OP, these are guesses based on formulas and experience. To better your hitch lash up there needs be a trip to a Cat Scale and make three passes across that to dial in the combination.

The other information requested all adds to bettering that lash-up.

[SSquared]

I tow a 2013 25FB Flying Cloud. My tow vehicle is same as yours, 2010 Yukon Denali AWD short wheelbase.

My trailer is lighter than the Classic, but the Classic may have a lower tongue weight. Are you talking about the 2015 Classic? The Airstream web site shows tongue weight (empty) of about 770 pounds for that compared to 840 for mine.

The 25FB normally gains a lot of weight when loaded for travel, based on the location of the water heater, storage compartments, etc. My trailer tongue weight is around 1000 pounds now.

The receiver on the Yukon is rated for 1000 pounds when using a weight distributing hitch. However, it is kind of marginal for that weight. If you look at post number 16 in the thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...ts-129781.html (also about towing with a Yukon Denali) you will see a picture of my rig, showing how the receiver flexes. That was back when my tongue weight was about 900 pounds, and I used less weight distribution force than I do now. Since that picture was taken, I had my receiver reinforced (two bars of angle iron welded in).

So based on tongue weight, you could be OK as long as the trailer isn't too loaded, but you may want to beef up your receiver.

For total weight, the trailer GVWR is 10,000 pounds. That exceeds the Yukon's trailer weight rating, and also would exceed the Yukon's Gross Combined Weight Rating. The empty Classic weight is within the Yukon's ratings. As a practical matter, when you get a Classic loaded with water and personal and household effects, you will probably be over your GCWR rating. The Yukon has a good engine, and you might be satisfied with the acceleration and hill climbing, but more likely you will want something better.

Going down the road, I feel our Yukon is not as stable with the trailer behind it as I would like. I think a Suburban/Yukon XL or longer wheelbase pickup would feel a bit better. Also, a vehicle with a better suspension (i.e., independent rear) would probably do better.

My trailer is almost 6800 pounds with full fresh water. Climbing mountains in Colorado, I wish my Yukon has a better transmission cooler. I find that when I get half way up a big climb like Vail, Monarch, Wolf Creek and Rabbit Ears passes, the tranny temp is up to 240 or more, and I pull over to let it cool (I had my Yukon in the shop just yesterday to get measured for a bigger cooler). If you are going to stay out of the mountains you should be OK with the stock cooler.


Let me ask you a question: Have you replaced the tires on your Yukon? What model and how do you like them? (I bought my Yukon used, and it has the OEM Bridgestone Alenzas).

[slowmover]

OP, if you indeed have a house near Columbus, OH, then it is but a little over 300-miles to Can Am RV in London, ON. Andrew Thomson is the acknowledged expert in towing setup. We armchair experts can be okay, but you'd be best served in a service trip to his location.

Posts here as Andrew_T. Reading those plus his online articles and videos will give you a step up.

We can continue to get you roughed in at home with your hitch, and then dialled in at a scale. Still need the above requests filled in to do that well.

In a review of some old posts Andy notes the 30's are coming in at 7,600lbs or less on the axles. One at 8400 that may have been an SO. An estimated TW of 840lbs. Easily within what the Yukon can handle. Payload on the Yukon will likely be lower than my above estimate.

But there is another level of things.

My son is supposed to be out of the USMC this next summer and start grad school in Connecticut. I'm thinking of detouring thru London coming out of Corpus Christi on my way to the Northeast. That's a lot more than a 300 mile detour, FWIW.

For your rig it may be specific tire recommendations, an exam of that GMT900 integrated hitch as to strength, and best settings for the PP.
Worth your time. You can also PM, email or telephone as he considers this a hobby. Get started on the right foot.

[angustami]

Ok found my original window sticker
It's AWD

[angustami]

Originally Posted by SSquared

I tow a 2013 25FB Flying Cloud. My tow vehicle is same as yours, 2010 Yukon Denali AWD short wheelbase.

My trailer is lighter than the Classic, but the Classic may have a lower tongue weight. Are you talking about the 2015 Classic? The Airstream web site shows tongue weight (empty) of about 770 pounds for that compared to 840 for mine.

The 25FB normally gains a lot of weight when loaded for travel, based on the location of the water heater, storage compartments, etc. My trailer tongue weight is around 1000 pounds now.

The receiver on the Yukon is rated for 1000 pounds when using a weight distributing hitch. However, it is kind of marginal for that weight. If you look at post number 16 in the thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...ts-129781.html (also about towing with a Yukon Denali) you will see a picture of my rig, showing how the receiver flexes. That was back when my tongue weight was about 900 pounds, and I used less weight distribution force than I do now. Since that picture was taken, I had my receiver reinforced (two bars of angle iron welded in).

So based on tongue weight, you could be OK as long as the trailer isn't too loaded, but you may want to beef up your receiver.

For total weight, the trailer GVWR is 10,000 pounds. That exceeds the Yukon's trailer weight rating, and also would exceed the Yukon's Gross Combined Weight Rating. The empty Classic weight is within the Yukon's ratings. As a practical matter, when you get a Classic loaded with water and personal and household effects, you will probably be over your GCWR rating. The Yukon has a good engine, and you might be satisfied with the acceleration and hill climbing, but more likely you will want something better.

Going down the road, I feel our Yukon is not as stable with the trailer behind it as I would like. I think a Suburban/Yukon XL or longer wheelbase pickup would feel a bit better. Also, a vehicle with a better suspension (i.e., independent rear) would probably do better.

My trailer is almost 6800 pounds with full fresh water. Climbing mountains in Colorado, I wish my Yukon has a better transmission cooler. I find that when I get half way up a big climb like Vail, Monarch, Wolf Creek and Rabbit Ears passes, the tranny temp is up to 240 or more, and I pull over to let it cool (I had my Yukon in the shop just yesterday to get measured for a bigger cooler). If you are going to stay out of the mountains you should be OK with the stock cooler.


Let me ask you a question: Have you replaced the tires on your Yukon? What model and how do you like them? (I bought my Yukon used, and it has the OEM Bridgestone Alenzas).

Ssquared I have the same tires as you.....I did upgrade to the new 2015 GMC wheels. I had the original factory 22" chrome wheels, up here in the North the salt destroys them and they rust around the tire. Could never get them to hold air. Im on my 3rd set of OEM tires, 97k on the truck....so far so good.

[Tino643]

I tow my 30 International whit a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel whit a nice Husky centerline hitch. And it is very nice...

[angustami]

I'm sure I'll be fine