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Old 12-01-2007, 02:12 PM   #81
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Chaining alloy wheels?

Good advice Lew -- thanks!

Does anybody feel a need to resort to the chains like rfield54 uses?
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:28 AM   #82
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Thanks Lew,
I ordered one of these today since I will be headed less friendly places early next year.
Well mine arived at my sisters just before Chirstmas. It did not fit. I would have to grind the lip and I am not doing that. It will weaken it. For now I am sticking to the lock and the ball with no shank.
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Old 12-28-2007, 04:13 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecatsandi
Well mine arived at my sisters just before Chirstmas. It did not fit. I would have to grind the lip and I am not doing that. It will weaken it. For now I am sticking to the lock and the ball with no shank.
Hi, Michelle. Same thing, but different. I ordered the "Guardian G-37" tongue lock for 2 5/16" rolled lip coupler. Mine is safe, but a little looser fitting than I would like so I plan on makeing a horse shoe shaped rubber shim and glue it to the inside/top of my coupler lock for a better fit. Now all I need is a 6"x 6" piece of Marathon side wall to make it.
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Old 12-28-2007, 05:53 PM   #84
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I am thinking at this point a chain and a good lock between two of the tires is the way to go.
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Old 12-28-2007, 06:52 PM   #85
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My concern is if the trailer ever has to be left on the side of the road. We've had one roadside experience and when I told AAA that if they couldn't take the TV and trailer at the same time, to take the trailer first with my wife in the Tow Truck, then come back and pick me and the car up. That got them working to come up with two Tow Trucks with arrival at the same time. We still each rode in a TT so we'd be aware of any incidents.

But it bothers me as sometimes situations arise where that may not be an option. I've got a hitch ball type lock (don't remember the name but yellow and goes over the top of the latch as well) and I also have a padlock that goes through the latch separately. Slow them down and make it difficult is my motto. I've thought about a wheel lock as a third piece but so far haven't seen one that when not is use is easily stored. I may have to make something. I also need to put an alarm in it - anything to potentially make a thief think twice.

At my home it's tucked so far back no ones sees it and they'd have to work pretty hard to get it out of where we park it. In CG's I do the tongue locks as per above.

If a thief comes fully prepared and really really wants that trailer there's not a lot of other things I can think of.

Barry
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:46 PM   #86
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Isn't no use............

We are staying at a seemingly secured RV Resort here in the Palm Springs and A neighbor of ours here moved his new 24 ft. trailer just behind the outside wall of the compound. In broad daylight a whiye Ford pickup pulled in and within 3 minutes the occupants of the pickup had disabled and removed a brand new Gorrilla Brand hitch lock, a Master Lock hitch relase lock and drove off with the trailer in tow and were never traced. He said that he couldn't have done or installed anything that someone couldn't break off or remove in just a wink of an eye. His auto insurance won't cover the theft ubtil they get a release from the Police department. they won't issue any documentation of theft until 90 days from the date it was reported. We all now that the trailer will never be recovered and all of his possesions will never be returned. My advise about hitch locks or any kind of anti theft locks is forget it. The only thing that really can stop a thief is to never place your trailer in a situation where it would need the devises. Tell someone close by your leaving and never set yourself up as easy pray as the gap ever widens between the haves and the have nots.
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Old 12-29-2007, 01:54 PM   #87
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Dan
The way U discribe that rip-off Those guys were pro's and had the rite equipment,meaning lock picks and bump keys. With the correct bump key and a skilled person using it any pin-lock/cylinder lock can be opened in seconds.Id bet money that was the case. Im secure in knowing I have done what I can to protect my AS.
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Old 12-29-2007, 04:45 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikethefixit
Dan
The way U discribe that rip-off Those guys were pro's and had the rite equipment,meaning lock picks and bump keys. With the correct bump key and a skilled person using it any pin-lock/cylinder lock can be opened in seconds.Id bet money that was the case. Im secure in knowing I have done what I can to protect my AS.
Roger
Righto, you'll never stop the pros but you will stop the knuckleheads looking for drug money or a hunting camper no one else will ever likely see(deep woods/ squeeeelll).
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:36 AM   #89
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Well i haven't picked up my rig yet, but when i do, I'll use the chain between two tires approach (like rfield 540)
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:00 PM   #90
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Blaylock

We have a Blaylock TL-33. It has worked on both of our trailers.

Here is a link to another thread discussing coupler locks.
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:04 PM   #91
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Picture of the Blaylock TL-33.
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:00 PM   #92
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FLYFISHFRED
Thats another great approach use the coupler lock of your choise and the heavist chain U can buy that will fit thru the spokes of the two wheels and a lock like is pictured above.
Thats all U need to slow the bad guys down ,the pro's U cant stop.
Good luck to U ,
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:11 PM   #93
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It's no use...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dan50w
We are staying at a seemingly secured RV Resort here in the Palm Springs and A neighbor of ours here moved his new 24 ft. trailer just behind the outside wall of the compound. In broad daylight a whiye Ford pickup pulled in and within 3 minutes the occupants of the pickup had disabled and removed a brand new Gorrilla Brand hitch lock, a Master Lock hitch relase lock and drove off with the trailer in tow and were never traced. He said that he couldn't have done or installed anything that someone couldn't break off or remove in just a wink of an eye. His auto insurance won't cover the theft ubtil they get a release from the Police department. they won't issue any documentation of theft until 90 days from the date it was reported. We all now that the trailer will never be recovered and all of his possesions will never be returned. My advise about hitch locks or any kind of anti theft locks is forget it. The only thing that really can stop a thief is to never place your trailer in a situation where it would need the devises. Tell someone close by your leaving and never set yourself up as easy pray as the gap ever widens between the haves and the have nots.
Ya, in this day and age of battery operated tools and/or quiet generators in the back of a vehicle, it sure doesn't take much to fire up an angle grinder with a cut off wheel that will go through steel "in a heartbeat". Well, it may take several heartbeats but you get the ieda.

Sans an armed guard there's nothing that can guarantee security and even that is open to all kinds of abuse.

But I agree with others who suggest that making your vehicle/trailer slightly more difficult to deal with than the one next door is a wise practice. Just ask the person who owned the car parked next to us in the motel in downtown Salt Lake City last month. The rear of our P-Cup was loaded from front to back and floor to ceiling of the "topper" but they smashed her window to get to the stuff they could see. We had placed black sheets over the top and down the sides of our load. This, combined with the height of the load and the smoke windows on the topper made it virtually impossible to see anything inside.

Security by obscurity.

YMMV

Jim
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:26 PM   #94
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Sometimes the best solutions to anti-theft are also the simpleist. I came upon one of the best by accident. I picked up my new AS (finally) from the dealer last thur and arrived at my storage facility fri afternoon. had a few notes on how to unhitch rig but was very tired after driving for 2 straight days. Tokk pressure off equilizer hitch bars and removed them, but was then confused on releasing ball trailer hitch lever and continued raising electric jack until it wouldn't go higher. Ofr course i burned out elec jack fuse. Luckily storage mgr was around and got me a replacement fuse. Then it dawned on me how easily it would be for one to remove fuse from jack wiring and plug back together without fuse then jack will not operate, thereby preventing theif from raising jack to hookup trailer. How many thief's carry spare fuses around ??, even if they look at wiring it looks ok as you cannot see missing fuse. Not bad eh.........
Fred
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:47 PM   #95
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I'm not at all paranoid about theft or vandalism. Not at all.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:56 PM   #96
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I timed out on trying to add an image. These forums are extremely s l o w in my recent experience.
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:33 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rog0525
I'm not at all paranoid about theft or vandalism. Not at all.
I see what you mean Rog. As is evident you took the minimalist route to quietly get the point across.

I'll bet your wife is impressed.

Uh, where is your trailer? It looked like it's gone.......

Barry
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:44 PM   #98
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Uh, where is your trailer? It looked like it's gone.......
Barry
bejeebers, Barry, you scared me. I had to go look at my silver bucket just to be sure it's still there and unharmed.
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Old 01-20-2008, 04:21 PM   #99
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They make a wheel boot for trailers. It doesn't fit the newer aluminum wheels though. I place expandable stabilizers between the wheels to limit trailer movement from walking. Also, figure it's another step for a thief to undo inorder to pull.
I like the disabling the jack idea. Where is the fuse at?
A hitch lock is OK, and I use one, but, a thief can wrap a chain around the hitch and tow it. Does anyone have a GPS theft location system installed in their TT?

Tom
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Old 01-20-2008, 04:43 PM   #100
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I like the disabling the jack idea. Where is the fuse at?

Tom
On my rig the fuse is spliced into the wiring behind the drivers side of the channel frame (between jack and propane tanls). Its somewhat hidden so you have to get under and look up for the wiring.
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