The Best Sockets For An Equal-i-zer

[FamOfHealers]

Hi there everyone,

We just got a 2020 Flying Cloud Airstream, and we recently bought an Equal-i-zer.

Like my title indicates, what is the best brand and the best fit to add on an Equal-i-zer onto our airstream.

What the Owners manual says: The Largest Sockets we would need are: Bolts are 3/4" x 5" Grade 5 Bolt, and 3/4" Nut (Grade 8).

I have been to Ace Hardware, and Auto Parts and I couldnt find any socket that was the right fit. So I set my sights on the metric system, and I also couldnt find anything big enough those Nuts, and Bolts. I beleive it would be something closer to 17,18, or 19mm sockets, but I could not find 3/4th inch sockets.

Is there a place that I could get them? Like HomeDepot?

[SpinWhite]

Harbor Freight deep socket.

[GCinSC2]

I am in my garage and just checked my Equalizer.

They are not metric sized.

Shank bolt head 1 1/8”
Shank bolt nut same.

Sway bar socket nut 15/16”

L bracket bolt and nut 3/4”

Suggest a 1/2” drive six point deep set. You’ll find it can help elsewhere.

Please check length of hitch ball shank vs Equalizer specs. It is not same length as common shanks it’s shorter.

Read manual for setup directions, measure, take notes and learn your rig.

Post pics if backed into corner.

Gary

[SilverWind]

Equalizer sells this special thin wall socket for the hitch ball.
https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store...-walled-socket

[OTRA15]

Welcome to the forum -- nice signature under your OP!

At a minimum you should carry at all times:
-- complete set of 1/2" drive sockets
-- variety of deep and thin wall sockets.
-- breaker bar
-- torque wrench
-- etc.

For instance: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2-Inch...5&sr=8-36&th=1

"1/2" drive socket set" search results will reveal a variety of tool threads/posts to help fill out your needs:
https://www.google.com/search?q=1%2F...=airforums.com.

Happy trails,

[tyggeln]

I have another addition to the advice and admonitions...

I have the Equlaizer 12000# setup. Sounds like you might be doing a self install...not a bad thing but adhere to the necessary torque requirements on the fasteners to the hitch shank. The risk is that the head may move on the shank, and ultimately end up breaking the head and not provide the weight distributing function.

An air powered driver is probably the way to go, since finding the necessary torque wrench is really tough. I recall the requirement was something like 300 ft-lbs.

Good luck!

[Mollysdad]

I have this assortment.
a 1/2" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive deep socket 1 1/8"
A box end 1 1/8" wrench.

The box end fits the 3/4" bolts where the threads stick out too far for even the deep socket. The socket will fit the head also.
The breaker bar (from Harbor Freight) is inexpensive ($20), long (24") and allows you to add a length of galvanized pipe to get lots of leverage.

Hint: When working on the hitch bolts, don't hesitate to turn the assembly over in the receiver. I always want to be pushing down on the breaker bar so if it slips I don't bash the tailgate or myself.
I can also step on the breaker bar to get lots of torque.

Originally Posted by tyggeln

An air powered driver is probably the way to go, since finding the necessary torque wrench is really tough. I recall the requirement was something like 300 ft-lbs.

Being a shade tree mechanic, I make the torque adjustments like this. How much do you weigh? 200lbs? Okay to achieve 300 ft/lbs, you want to apply that 200 lbs (stand on) the breaker bar 1.5' from the bolt.
Or if you're 150lbs, stand on the breaker bar 2' from the bolt. I've watched that Harbor Freight breaker bar bend about 10 degrees, and it didn't snap! That's when you want to be near the ground, just in case.
I considered an DeWalt impact wrench, but the cost/benefit just didn't justify it for the few times I adjust the hitch.

[Mikebrady62]

I would go to Harbor Freight and pick up a 1/2” set like Gary mentioned above. Works for me.