Safe Hitch Installation?

[PonyPip]

Hey all -- we just recently got a hitch-ball installed on our 2017 Toyota Highlander in order to tow our new 2020 19' Bambi, and we're not sure if the job was properly done or not, or if the setup is completely safe for towing. We're planning on hitting the road for the first time in a couple weeks and wanted to be sure that what we have installed will be reasonably safe, or if there's any issue we need to address first.

Note: I'm using the term 'hitch-ball' to refer to the whole L-shaped piece of black metal + ball that got installed in the square hole at the back of our vehicle.

We had made an appointment with a local RV dealer/service location and they assured us they could install a new hitch-ball and sway bars no problem. Once we arrived, they realized the new piece they were going to install couldn't go low enough (19") so they repurposed a used hitch-ball and installed that instead, assuring us it would be fine. We're a bit skeptical that this is the case, and wondering if they just wanted to make the sale and stuck something on when in fact they didn't have the proper hitch-ball for this setup. One concern especially is that the bottom of the 'L' goes quite low and we're worried about clearance and the possibility of it striking the ground or something else, and the damage that that impact might have on the towing capacity or the trailer, especially if we're somewhere remote. I'm attaching a couple photos to give a sense of the installation.

Thanks in advance for any feedback or advice.

[KSA63]

Looks good to me. If you are concerned you can have a shop cut that piece sticking down so that it’s a little shorter. It would also be nice to see the ball a little closer to the bumper but that too would require drilling a new hole for the hitch pin and perhaps shortening the shank a bit so it doesn’t bottom out in the receiver.
Most hitches come with the hitch pin hole pre-drilled so the Installer would not normally modify it.
You should be fine with your trailer.
Kevin

[Mollysdad]

I see, and yes the "shank" (the 'L' shaped part) looks close to the ground. Mine is also kinda close and I've bumped it on the ground when exiting driveways or gas stations.
In your case. why not just flip the shank 180 degrees? You'd remove the two 3/4" bolts holding the head, flip the shank, and replace the head in a new set of holes, keeping the ball about the same location (20"). Probably an easy job for a shop, since it requires some wrenches that you may not have 1 1/8" sockets and breaker bars. There's no magic here, but brute force.
Your head is intended to have two spring bars in those sockets, did you get those?

[Al and Missy]

First - welcome to Airstreaming and the forums.

What Mollysdad said - turn the shank over. I don't recognize the hitch, but my Equalizer was similar and the bolts had to be tightened to over 300 lb. ft. Takes a special torque wrench or a long cheater bar for a 3/4" ratchet handle and good guessing skills.

FYI there are four major pieces there, starting at the bumper:
The receiver - "the square thing attached to the vehicle"
The shank - the L-shaped steel bar
The hitch head - the casting bolted to the shank
The hitch ball - bolted to the hitch head

Not criticizing or poking fun - just informing. If you call things by the proper term (you will learn hundreds of them as you go) people will better understand your question.

A good source for general information is the book or e-book:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUOZCC...ng=UTF8&btkr=1

[GCinSC2]

Can you provide a good pic of the hitch from both sides showing the two bolts that connect the hitch head to the shank. A bit like second pic but closer.

What I think I see on pic #2 is no washers under the bolt heads.

Gary

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

What I think I see on pic #2 is no washers under the bolt heads.

Gary

That brand hitch does not come with washers for the bolts, only one each for the nuts on the other side. I've used both washers on the upper bolt, so there is more surface to hold around the slot, but the instructions do say to use both washers against the nuts.

[GCinSC2]

Terry

Not familiar with model, which one is this?

The top bolt head looks like it’s over a slotted hole. Mfgr directions may rule but I’d have a washer over the slot. Just bugs me.

Gary

[PonyPip]

Thank you all so much for the responses, it's super helpful.

We took some additional shots of the hitch for clarification -- see attached.

It does sound like we might have to get it looked at again, especially for the issue of bottoming out somewhere with low clearance. And the issue of the washers sounds concerning as well -- as you can hopefully see, the top bolt seems to have very little surface area that it's actually pressing up against.

My guess is that they installed the shank in that orientation because the existing holes didn't align in the other direction. Either way, it does seem to us that this was not an optimal model to install on our vehicle, and that they used it because that was the only one they had laying around. If y'all have any further insights or suggestions, that would be much appreciated, and, think we'll call them in a day or two and ask what they think of the feedback. Thanks again.

[GCinSC2]

PonyPip,

Can you please provide the model number of this hitch. I found a Reese round bar hitch manual but best to be specific.

If you have the installation manual that has the parts diagram showing what goes where. Your last pic showing the bolt head on the slot w/o washer, not in my book.

Gary

[Mollysdad]

I don't always read the instructions, but if that were mine, it would have grade 8 washers on both sides and a split washer on the nut side. Grade 8 are super hard, inexpensive, don't rust, and easily found (Lowe's).
It's hard to believe that a manufacturer would recommend a bolt head or nut against that slot.

I keep a 1/2" breaker bar, a 6 pt deep 1 1/8" socket, a box end wrench 1 1/8", and a two foot section of galvanized pipe. If I need 300 ft/lbs, I imagine a 100 lb down force 3' from the socket. This ain't NASA, we're tightening nuts! I always orient the head so the force applied is down! That way I can step on the bar, and avoid bashing the tailgate if the wrench slips.

[BayouBiker]

A washer would have been nicer looking but is not functionally required. The setup looks good as other indicated. If you have more than 5 inches to the ground you have more than enough clearance. At 4 1/2-5 inches it will hit ground just a bit before the trailer does. I would rather have the shank hit than the trailer. If it's lower than 4 1/2 that may be a bit low.

It all appears to be appropriate.

[kscherzi]

Looks to me the shank can and should be flipped 180 degrees. The hitch head can be removed and reattached in the same two holes its bolted in now.

I bet when the trailer is hanging on the ball the rear.of the SUV will settle down an inch or two. If the shank isn't flipped over it'll be scraping on every little speed bump, not to mention gas station driveways.

I vote for two washers for the two bolt heads. My Equalizer, similar in design to this hitch, has washers everywhere.