Removing weight distribution bars while maneuvering

[gypsycoder]

New to towing and backing these larger trailers, have a 30 ft globetrotter. We moved to this from a 41ft motorhome so the size does not bother us, but the bending in the middle is a bit to get used to…along with the passenger not being able to move about.

We were wondering if removing the weight distribution bars before tight maneuvers, especially reverse ones like into a tight campsite or driveway, would aid in the process?

[BT2513]

For most WDH setups, yes, removing the bars is better for making tight maneuvers but you need to be mindful of the camper body as it gets closer to the truck body on a tight turn. The exception to this is the ProPride WDH or Hensley Arrow which uses a dual cam system that puts the trailer a little further away from the rear of the truck and can accommodate up to a 45 degree turn. I use a ProPride now and have never had to de-tension the bars to back in.

With my old Fastway E2, I was able to pull nose first into a tandem "buddy" site with my Tahoe and Lance trailer. I disconnected the bars and executed a 47 point turn to get the tow vehicle out of the spot but it worked lol. The one advantage of this type of hitch is that you can hitch and unhitch at pretty extreme angles which is how I got it out of there. You just pull the rig to somewhere flat and straight and tension the bars there.

The main problems I encountered early on with this type of hitch and tight turns was the tendency for the mounting plates to migrate on the trailer which at least once caused a bar to slip off on a tight turn which then drug a bit on the highway. I've also bent the aluminum "L" pins that hold the bar onto the plates from egregiously tight turns. If you go with this type of setup, I would order extra L-pins, cotter keys, bracket set, and maybe extra bolts to hold it together in case something gets damaged. All of this was early on in my camping experience - I learned from it.

I'd say 95% of the time we didn't disconnect the bars when backing in to a conventional site. The exceptions being sites on a steep uphill grade where the rear of the trailer was bottoming out or the very occasional really tight turn - more the former than the latter.

[majorairhead]

I think i may have removed my equalizer hitch bars once, maybe twice over the years. Not due to cornering, rather to off camber camp site in relation to the road. That puts stress on the bars and can make them hard to remove.

[kscherzi]

The type of hitch makes a difference when backing up. I seen it recommended to remove the friction bars prior to backing up. My equalizer hitch, trunnion style, doesn't need its weight distribution bars removed.to back up.

[NMathews]

Same here. Blue OX's manual with our hitch/bars kit said it was not necessary to remove them prior to backing in/turning sharply. In our storage site the thoroughfares are very narrow so I pull them off and just take the tight turn into our spot *very* slowly with a spotter to prevent a jackknife. I still remove them out of caution when backing into a campsite also. Better safe than sorry...

[Mollysdad]

I've never removed the Equalizer bars prior to backing.
But then, I don't do jackknife maneuvers, because I'm more concerned with crunching the propane tank cover.

[gypsydad]

My Equalizer bar twisted and broke years ago while backing in a parking lot with our 25'AS; dealer only had Blue Ox in stock. Thus is 3 AS's later now, and love the Blue Ox. I do not disconnect when parking 98% of the time. Every now and then, I have been in tight angle situation at a campsite where I did need to hookup on the ball and pull the AS out if the campsite to a more level surface due to the angle of my TV when hooking up sway bars. Never had to remove backing/parking however. Some hitches do recommend you remove the sway bars. BO does not. The chain/cam system allows sway bars to swing/move independent of a fixed A frame on the AS.

[delrossa]

In our six years and many parks I have never removed the WD bars. I have a Reese anti sway WD bar hitch. I use the TV rear camera to watch the jackknife issue. When in doubt get out and look. I always use a spotter backing up.

[AirChuck]

I left the Equalizer WD bars on while backing in and out of a tight turn site that had deep wash-out gullies. Some months later I noticed a top corner weld on one of the bar sockets on the hitch was cracked thru. I realized the twisting of the trailer and TV in opposite directions was probably the cause. My dealership replaced the Equalizer hitch assembly at no charge under the lifetime warranty.

[lemley]

Reese dual cam WD hitch here.

I’m normally too lazy to stop and remove the bars. A couple of exceptions…

We have one campsite that we love but getting into it is tough. It involves pulling up two fairly steep hills and then backing up a steep spot to settle into the spot. The slope plus the gravel makes it a challenge in my 2wd Yukon. This last trip I dropped 10 pounds out of the tires and removed the WD bars. It was like magic. Dropping the tire pressure increased the surface area. Removing the WD bars put the weight back on the drive axle.

The second time was unplanned. Made a U turn in a tight parking lot. The bar on the outside of the turn came off. Fortunately we noticed before getting back on the road.

[Life is a Highway]

I have never removed our Equalizer bars backing in however this summer I wish I had..

Not backing in but leaving the campground near Sequoia National Park. It was a very steep drive up and out to the road and then a sharp right. This jacked up the ft end of our trailer i’m sure. Popped ever screw out from under the trim moulding

From now on I’ll be on the ball is steep entrance and exits-

[richard5933]

The only time I remove the bars on my Reese Dual Cam is when the site is situated so that the truck and trailer don't end up in a straight line when the trailer is in the final position.

Really tough to remove the bars when the two are not lined up. Sometimes it's not even possible to open the rear doors on the Suburban (where we keep the tools to remove the WD bars) making it a must to remove them first.

[civeng99]

Originally Posted by gypsycoder

New to towing and backing these larger trailers, have a 30 ft globetrotter. We moved to this from a 41ft motorhome so the size does not bother us, but the bending in the middle is a bit to get used to…along with the passenger not being able to move about.

We were wondering if removing the weight distribution bars before tight maneuvers, especially reverse ones like into a tight campsite or driveway, would aid in the process?

I always park on the ball. Removes additional points where I could mess something up. Has to be done eventually anyway.

Old Reese setup. Rwd van.

[SlowPokePete]

Originally Posted by civeng99

I always park on the ball. Removes additional points where I could mess something up. Has to be done eventually anyway.

This makes a lot of sense.

SPP

[Thiss]

On the ball on backroads, boondocks, campgrounds, on and off a ferry. Anytime I am not going to drive more than 40mph.

[civeng99]

Thank goodness there’s someone else out there willing to use some common sense. In before the pro ride or instant death crew checks in.

Originally Posted by Thiss

On the ball on backroads, boondocks, campgrounds, on and off a ferry. Anytime I am not going to drive more than 40mph.

[tjdonahoe]

I have many times

[gypsycoder]

Thanks everyone for their replies, like I said new to the trailering stuff, so I am glad there is a place like this to ask seemingly stupid questions like this.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by gypsycoder

Thanks everyone for their replies, like I said new to the trailering stuff, so I am glad there is a place like this to ask seemingly stupid questions like this.

There are no stupid questions; just stupid people! (except here on the Forum...no stupid people here on the Forum!)

I have found the Forum folks (for the most part) to be extremely helpful with their knowledge...saved us lots of time and money posting questions and DIY with advice from the "experts" here.