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Old 06-03-2019, 07:38 AM   #121
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:43 AM   #122
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:59 AM   #123
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Our 2014 model 30 has always been twitchy. We removed the power cables from the back of the trailer and now carry them in the truck (50 amp service so that was a lot of weight). Our tongue weight is now 1,175 pounds per my two sets of wheel scales.

Had removed the factory receiver from the beginning. Have had excess movement wear in the receiver opening soon using a shim system to firm up the connection. Trailer was converted to disc brakes in the beginning and use a Tuson brake controller as the factory controller was incompatible with the disc brake electronics.

This summer I plan to do a detailed inspection of the installation while in Lakeside, AZ at Ponderosa Shadows Airstream only RV park for the summer. The drive thru the Salt River Canyon is at 35 mph going both ways which is fortunate with the 7% slopes.

If the problem continues, I will replace the receiver hitch on the truck to get a tighter fit between the tongue and the actual receiver.
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:22 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
Our 2014 model 30 has always been twitchy. We removed the power cables from the back of the trailer and now carry them in the truck (50 amp service so that was a lot of weight). Our tongue weight is now 1,175 pounds per my two sets of wheel scales.

Had removed the factory receiver from the beginning. Have had excess movement wear in the receiver opening soon using a shim system to firm up the connection. Trailer was converted to disc brakes in the beginning and use a Tuson brake controller as the factory controller was incompatible with the disc brake electronics.

This summer I plan to do a detailed inspection of the installation while in Lakeside, AZ at Ponderosa Shadows Airstream only RV park for the summer. The drive thru the Salt River Canyon is at 35 mph going both ways which is fortunate with the 7% slopes.

If the problem continues, I will replace the receiver hitch on the truck to get a tighter fit between the tongue and the actual receiver.

Here is what you need to firm things up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:32 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turk123 View Post
Here is what you need to firm things up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I thought the same thing...but the 'helper' won't work with the TowTector in place.
Tried shims but they didn't last.
...."Willy the Welder" and I finally got around too doing a permanent fix.
Three thin wide beads on each face, grind down to fit snugly, with one bead added where yours truly ground too much, less than 1/8" vert play, even less side to side.

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Old 06-03-2019, 08:45 AM   #126
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You have over kill bars. if you were to get #1000 bars and set up your trailer to them you will find out how much better it will handle. Don't know who told you that #1400 bars are what you need but they do not know what they are doing. I have had two 34' airstreams and most people with 30'+ only use #1000 bars. I have been towing trailers for more than 48 years and have always used #1000 or less bars. Bet your wife would love the towing than. Jim
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Old 06-03-2019, 10:20 AM   #127
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Just a question, as most of the focus has been on the hitch. Are the axles perfectly aligned and everything, from wheel bearings to brakes, checked? Just does not seem to be a hitch issue if everything has been checked multiple times.
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Old 06-03-2019, 11:26 AM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
...I use a stick-on tape measure on the bar between jack hook and end of the WD bars, one on each side to get tension close to identical.
Great idea Rich. I have been using my cordless drill with a socket on it for the jacks and gauge the tension by where the end of the jack tube ends up on the drill with the socket resting on the base of the jack. Not very precise.

Al
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Old 06-03-2019, 11:59 AM   #129
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This is what I was trying to get you to check way upthread:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
If I were you I would check and be sure that the yoke is not slipping and the linkage to it is free of any play. That is the only thing I can think of that would cause a problem, and it is possible that perhaps there is some movement as a result of it being installed differently than it was on your previous trailer. I have painted a line on mine with a paint marker where the yoke meets the trailer A frame, so that any slippage becomes obvious.


Glad you found it though.



Quote:
Originally Posted by crispyboy View Post
So those of you who have a pro pride hitch would it help if you added blue lock-tite to the threads or is there a place one could put a tack weld to keep this yoke from sliding?

You want it to be able to slide so that the hitch doesn't break if it is subject to excessive lateral force while backing. This can happen either as a result of letting the trailer turn to an excessive angle, or just because you're backing up an incline or through the mud or both.
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Old 06-03-2019, 12:03 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
^
X2

I have a maintenance and Winter storage obsession which includes Hensley removal at the end of every Season. Some may consider such an obsession a bit anal but it does force an understanding of how the hitch works and confirmation that all systems are go.👍

Bob
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Why don't you just leave the hitch on your TV and raise the trailer with the tongue jack? Much less work than trying to support it with a floor jack
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Old 06-03-2019, 12:26 PM   #131
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Often overlooked, but causes handling issues for trailers and tow vehicles- air pressure in tires to proper inflation, alignment of wheels, balance of each wheel, and, tires having unequal wear or are out of round.
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Old 06-03-2019, 12:34 PM   #132
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Propride Hitch problems (is this Blasphemy?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
Great idea Rich. I have been using my cordless drill with a socket on it for the jacks and gauge the tension by where the end of the jack tube ends up on the drill with the socket resting on the base of the jack. Not very precise.

Al


I believe these stick-on tape measures came from Cabellas or similar sporting goods store. Google for them. I put one on each side on the bar that connects the jack to the WD bar end. Use the edge of the Jack bracket for the indicator line.

About 1/2 inch wide and about a foot long. Designed to stick on the side of a boat to measure ‘keeper’ fish. I got tired of looking for my tape measure in the truck toolbox...
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Old 06-03-2019, 12:37 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
Why don't you just leave the hitch on your TV and raise the trailer with the tongue jack? Much less work than trying to support it with a floor jack
Probably because the jack is on the ground and has wheels, haha can then be rolled to the AS door, raised to the height of the shipping container, transferred and stored inside the AS.

Bob
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Old 06-03-2019, 04:14 PM   #134
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I would check your shocks from a loose or missing bolt. We had a missing bolt on our ‘18!Classic and the experience sounds similar to ours.
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Old 06-03-2019, 04:56 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
I believe these stick-on tape measures came from Cabellas or similar sporting goods store. Google for them. I put one on each side on the bar that connects the jack to the WD bar end. Use the edge of the Jack bracket for the indicator line.

About 1/2 inch wide and about a foot long. Designed to stick on the side of a boat to measure ‘keeper’ fish. I got tired of looking for my tape measure in the truck toolbox...
Didn't find them on Cabellas or Bass Pro but Googling yields a roll of 41 12" tapes by Rapala for $7. I previously found 12" stainless engraved rules at HF for $1.99 each. I think I'm going to get two and stick them on with double-sided tape.

Al
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Old 06-03-2019, 04:58 PM   #136
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That would certainly be very durable if put on with 3M UHB tape. Just get it in the right spot first! Clean surfaces first with brake cleaner, not alcohol (Per Lewster).
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:20 PM   #137
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Thanks to all on this thread. On my last trip, trailer started acting a bit wonky and the truck was pulling to the left. Took a look today and, yup, the frame bracket had shifted. Reset, lubed, and checked all nuts for torque. Ready for my next trip.
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Old 06-03-2019, 09:27 PM   #138
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Mark it in some permanent manner once it’s properly lined up. Makes it easier to fix on the proverbial “dark and storm night “ at the side of the road...
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Old 06-03-2019, 11:25 PM   #139
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Too much focus on the hitch, not enough on the trailer. Symptoms indicate an axle/ spring issue. Something broken, loose or grossly mis-aligned. A very close look is warranted.
Just my opinion.
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Old 06-03-2019, 11:27 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
That would certainly be very durable if put on with 3M UHB tape. Just get it in the right spot first! Clean surfaces first with brake cleaner, not alcohol (Per Lewster).
Hi, everything that I stick together with 3M two sided tape is cleaned with Alcohol pads; Then wiped with a clean paper towel. I have never had a failure doing this. Some of the things that I stick together are made out of plastic; I don't think brake cleaner would be good for these. Why is Lewster against Alcohol?


Way back in the 70's when I worked at a Lincoln Mercury dealer, I installed [stick on] body side moldings mostly on Mercury Capri's. Cleaned with alcohol. Also never had a problem.
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