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Old 08-30-2018, 11:19 AM   #41
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Peoria , Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans627 View Post
I know this is an older thread but it applies to my question.

For those with the RAM 2500 TV how many washers do you use on the pin to set the stinger to the correct angle? And what is the correct angle?

Thanks for your input!
When I sent Sean at PP this pic of my setup, the stinger was pointed slightly up. Here's what he said to do:

"Put the tilt pin in the top position with a couple washers to push the top bolt back toward the trailer and the bottom bolt toward thebtow vehicle."

I did this with the pin but didn't need any washers. Stinger now pointed slightly downward before hitching (no pic of new setup). Load jacks working well at 5-1/2". Hope this helps.

Wade
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Old 08-30-2018, 06:47 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb7our View Post
When I sent Sean at PP this pic of my setup, the stinger was pointed slightly up. Here's what he said to do:

"Put the tilt pin in the top position with a couple washers to push the top bolt back toward the trailer and the bottom bolt toward thebtow vehicle."

I did this with the pin but didn't need any washers. Stinger now pointed slightly downward before hitching (no pic of new setup). Load jacks working well at 5-1/2". Hope this helps.

Wade
I have not talked to Sean yet (I don't even have the ProPride yet). So the goal is to have the stinger pointed slightly down before hitching?
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Old 08-31-2018, 06:28 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans627 View Post
I have not talked to Sean yet (I don't even have the ProPride yet). So the goal is to have the stinger pointed slightly down before hitching?


Parallel to SLIGHTLY downward is where you want the hitch before connecting.
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Old 08-31-2018, 06:39 AM   #44
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I use a Propride adjustable stinger modified for my Hensley and have the stinger set level before hitching. With the stinger level it makes for easier hookups in most conditions in my opinion.
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Old 08-31-2018, 06:55 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by DBinSD View Post
Parallel to SLIGHTLY downward is where you want the hitch before connecting.
Yep! Mine being "slightly" down works great but parallel would be fine too, just likely to need a tad more lift on the jacks.
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Old 08-31-2018, 08:13 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb7our View Post
Yep! Mine was "slightly" down works great but parallel would be fine too, just likely to need a tad more lift on the jacks.
One more agreement. I had a slight downward pointed stinger (as per Sean) and it caused all sorts of issues trying to connect. When I leveled it out, all my issue went away. I was running about 6 1/2' on the towers and had lots of distribution. I own an F-250 (2017) TV with a diesel engine. I believe you just have to learn as much as you can, put a little sweat into the project, take your time and try more than one possible solution. Don't just follow the manual and be done with it.

A little note on Ford hitches. They are the worst at least this particular year! After several weeks on the road, I stopped at a Ford dealer to see why my hitch had so much play. The service manager looked at it and said, "That is not safe!". Ford could not supply me with a hitch that did not have the same problem. Ford bought me a Curt hitch.

As for play, if you have a 2 1/2 hitch using a 2" adapter, throw all that away. ProPride sells a 2 1/2' stinger. I also use this. It will stop your pin hole from "ovaling" or worst, like mine, flaring. It will also work with the 2" adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:11 PM   #47
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Turk, I have an F250 also. How many washers did you place?
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Old 09-26-2018, 07:12 PM   #48
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I can’t tell you now, but enough to get the stinger level.
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Old 09-27-2018, 04:56 AM   #49
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Thanks
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Old 09-28-2018, 08:07 PM   #50
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An interesting note from talking with Sean at PP.

I decided to install my hitch with my bed “loaded” for travel. This would ensure the proper angle when hitching up.

I have had zero issues (10k miles) and with my portable backup camera and remote control jack it takes less than 4 minutes to get connected EVERY time. Never leaving the driver seat !
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Old 10-05-2018, 04:49 PM   #51
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Propride WD Adjustments

I have my Propride installed and took the AS to the local CAT scales to dial it in. I have a 27' Globetrotter.

I have a 2018 RAM 2500 with CTD. The FA (front axle) weighs in at 5050# without the AS in tow.

After multiple trips across the scales I have the towers adjusted to 6 1/2" which restores the FA to 4860#, or about 200# less than with no load. The last 1/2 inch of adjustment, from 6" to 6 1/2", only gave me a gain of 40# on the FA, from 4820# to 4860#. Does these number make sense to those of you who have a Propride?

BTW it tows beautifully with this setting.

Thanks!
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:44 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans627 View Post
I have my Propride installed and took the AS to the local CAT scales to dial it in. I have a 27' Globetrotter.

--------------------------snip---------------------------

BTW it tows beautifully with this setting.

Thanks!
IMHO, the fact that it tows beautifully is a sign you hit the sweet spot. The numbers help verify that, but if the rig behaves well, it is well...

Mine is sensitive to adjusting the WD jacks up or down 1" max from about my usual 7" starting point depending on loading and conditions. If I get light on the front end I can feel it, as it tends to porpoise, and feels 'uncertain' on the steering inputs. If yours feels solid, it should be good.
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Old 11-03-2018, 10:10 PM   #53
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What does 7” mean? 7” from a bottomed out jack or something else?
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Old 11-03-2018, 10:15 PM   #54
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Propride Dial-in

Yup. Bottom jack mounting plate top surface to bottom edge of outer jack tube—the part that moves up as you tighten the WD bars.

Please not that this is only MY rig’s usual starting point. The ProPride manual discusses this in some detail. Best way to find the sweet spot is the “three pass CAT scale” method discussed elsewhere. Please search for it.
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Old 11-04-2018, 04:46 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans627 View Post
I have my Propride installed and took the AS to the local CAT scales to dial it in. I have a 27' Globetrotter.

I have a 2018 RAM 2500 with CTD. The FA (front axle) weighs in at 5050# without the AS in tow.

After multiple trips across the scales I have the towers adjusted to 6 1/2" which restores the FA to 4860#, or about 200# less than with no load. The last 1/2 inch of adjustment, from 6" to 6 1/2", only gave me a gain of 40# on the FA, from 4820# to 4860#. Does these number make sense to those of you who have a Propride?

BTW it tows beautifully with this setting.

Thanks!
It’s about all three points: Steer Axle, Drive Axle and Trailer Tandems. Sure, shorthand is restore Steer to Solo Value, but the amount to the trailer once tensioned is needed.

“Trailer Level” is what I see on the road as almost universally ignored with pickups. A carpenters level across the doorway is the reference. Dead level.

Sorta level isn’t okay. Slightly nose down isn’t okay.

A TT with independent suspension bouncing down the road on its front axle has problems waiting to expose themselves. Do what’s necessary to achieve level.

A split-Axle weigh is done on a CAT Scale with the weighmasters help. The instructions for that is in the CAT Reference Manual at the Fuel Desk.

Find the “hitch untensioned“ value per trailer axle, and then with it tensioned. There may not be changes in the TT to effect the differences per wheel, but the final application of hitch tension SHOULD show equal value. (Trailer tires at max sidewall pressure, but especially for test).

Until that attitude bias is nailed, the TT is reliant on two, not four, tires, and not giving the driver the feedback he needs. The trailer WILL NOT perform as it should. A pickup needs all the help it can get in staying upright, not just lane-centered. As this TT has greater stability than this TV, the inputs (forces acting against the Drive Axle) need to be kept to a minimum).

Address this, AND THEN (with TV tire pressure adjusted to actual load per Load & Pressure Table PLUS inside vehicle manufacturers range) one is close.

Testing tires for pressure rise (7-9% after 1.5-hrs steady state highway) is the final touch.

KONI or BILSTEIN shock absorbers should be installed on any TV. Brand new. Same for polyurethane anti-roll bar bushings.

Brake testing is next. Loaded rig should come to a complete stop faster than when the trailer is dropped.

.
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