Properly Adjusted Hitch!

[TravisH]

Hi,

Well I was bored yesterday and nothing much to do so decided to play with the adjustment of my Equal-I-Zer hitch. I had it well within specs but wanted to see if I could make "perfect" and see what that did for the ride.

It took 3 more tries but have is where it brings the truck to same attitude as when unladen. AS is perfectly level as well! Previously the front of my Tundra was lifted 1/2" and AS just a bit dipping down. Ride was good, cornering at speed a little loose and a slight push by semis but nothing alarming. Now it's a rail! The entire rig feels much more solid!

It's kind of a pain what with the various adjustments but worth the effort.

I don't see how a shop could possibly get this done as it takes some time. Coupled with my previous efforts ~2.5 hours and I know what I was doing. First try was acceptable and I'm sure a shop would have left it at that.

If you have an Equal-I-Zer and just close enough I encourage you to take the time one day to try some minor adjustments and see if you can make it "perfect". Just a slight change made drastic improvement!

The one time perfect is not the enemy of good enough!

Thanks!

Trav

[Wayne&Sam]

I plan of revisiting my setup too. It's good, but since I have plenty of time, I figured why not do it. Nothing may change, but that's not a bad thing. But maybe it will.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by TravisH

Well I was bored yesterday and nothing much to do so decided to play with the adjustment of my Equal-I-Zer hitch. I had it well within specs but wanted to see if I could make "perfect" and see what that did for the ride.
It took 3 more tries but have is where it brings the truck to same attitude as when unladen. AS is perfectly level as well! Previously the front of my Tundra was lifted 1/2" and AS just a bit dipping down. Ride was good, cornering at speed a little loose and a slight push by semis but nothing alarming. Now it's a rail! The entire rig feels much more solid!

It's kind of a pain what with the various adjustments but worth the effort.

I don't see how a shop could possibly get this done as it takes some time. Coupled with my previous efforts ~2.5 hours and I know what I was doing. First try was acceptable and I'm sure a shop would have left it at that.

If you have an Equal-I-Zer and just close enough I encourage you to take the time one day to try some minor adjustments and see if you can make it "perfect". Just a slight change made drastic improvement!

Execllent.
How did you accomplish that? Washers? "L" pads? Move on the shank?

[BayouBiker]

This encourages me to go tweak mine also. The last trip through the scales indicated I could do better. I also have a bit of slop in the receiver/shank I need to manage.

[ROBERT CROSS]

^
Fixed once and for all...after failed shims and other attempts.😕
A friend has a welding shop...he ran wide flat beads on three sides, top and both sides of the shank along with a wedge on the top.
I ground it down to fit, no more slop.

Bob
🇺🇸

[BayouBiker]

Very nice! A trip to a welder is in my future.

[TravisH]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Execllent.
How did you accomplish that? Washers? "L" pads? Move on the shank?

Ended up adding one washer and flipped the shank.

It's tricky because a single washer moves the height more than you'd think!

I got it exactly the height on the hitch by trying a couple times. One way it was 1/2" higher and same result as previously. I guess the holes in the shank are such that they are in between when you flip the shank so you can get a half hole adjustment. I didn't prove this but seemed to work out that way.

BTW my hitch height ended up being 22.25" when leveled up whereas the manual says 19"...perhaps AS measures to a different point. I measured top dead center of the actual socket in the hitch the ball goes in. I have to admit my first attempt was in a gravel space and impossible to get as accurate. I think I figured 20". Remember you can't measure true level but parallel to the ground to get hitch height. The effort was getting the ball at exactly 22.25" and that seemed to be the pay off!

[Profxd]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

^
Fixed once and for all...after failed shims and other attempts.😕
A friend has a welding shop...he ran wide flat beads on three sides, top and both sides of the shank along with a wedge on the top.
I ground it down to fit, no more slop.

Bob
🇺🇸

I did something similar to my shank. I drilled 2 3/8 in. Dimples on the top and on one side of the shank then welded and filled spots at each dimple. Then I used a Dremel tool to make it fit snug into a 2 1/2in. adapter. No play up and down or side to side. My adapter has a good fit into the receiver.

[rd tighe]

Originally Posted by TravisH

Hi,

Well I was bored yesterday and nothing much to do so decided to play with the adjustment of my Equal-I-Zer hitch. I had it well within specs but wanted to see if I could make "perfect" and see what that did for the ride.

It took 3 more tries but have is where it brings the truck to same attitude as when unladen. AS is perfectly level as well! Previously the front of my Tundra was lifted 1/2" and AS just a bit dipping down. Ride was good, cornering at speed a little loose and a slight push by semis but nothing alarming. Now it's a rail! The entire rig feels much more solid!

It's kind of a pain what with the various adjustments but worth the effort.

I don't see how a shop could possibly get this done as it takes some time. Coupled with my previous efforts ~2.5 hours and I know what I was doing. First try was acceptable and I'm sure a shop would have left it at that.

If you have an Equal-I-Zer and just close enough I encourage you to take the time one day to try some minor adjustments and see if you can make it "perfect". Just a slight change made drastic improvement!

The one time perfect is not the enemy of good enough!

Thanks!

Trav

Is what you are saying is when you hitch up your truck the rear stayed the same or just the front. And by ajusting the hitch you were changing the angle of the ball. With time on my hands and a new T.V .I would love more information.

[TravisH]

Originally Posted by rd tighe

Is what you are saying is when you hitch up your truck the rear stayed the same or just the front. And by ajusting the hitch you were changing the angle of the ball. With time on my hands and a new T.V .I would love more information.

Hi,

Didn't measure the rear as it's all about transferring load to the front. I think the rear axle is like a fulcrum and all the motion on the front. Mines perfectly level though. You can see 1/2" out of level.

So...

No load my Tundra sat at ~36"

FC 23 FBQ attached the front rose to over 37"

With bars attached back to 36" and AS perfectly level. Previously I was ~1/2" higher which is within specs. And AS just dipping down a tiny bit.

Equal-I-zer is about ball height being perfectly level with AS hitch and then angle of head to adjust load to front. I think you can add 6 or 8 washers (?) I have 5 now.

Not sure if I mentioned before but I have the 1200# bars. Equal-i-zer said they rate at highest load so if you're over 1000# tongue weight go with 1200#. I was at ~1050# so was trying to have the least WD as possible as some suggested too much strain can cause damage to AS frame.

[rd tighe]

Thanks for the update I spend the requisite time and checked it with my laser level. Spot on thanks for the help. Back of TV is down approximately 1 inch the front is within 1/16. Airstream look perfect Now all I need is the all clear. This quarantine is getting to me. My how I miss the highway. New TV, level, inexpensive gas and here I set. I guess tomorrow I can shine the lug nuts. You will know us when you see on the road very level and shiny lug nuts and a big smile on the driver.��

[BayouBiker]

I increased tension by about 400 lbs, shortened the shank 2 inches, and removed all the slop. I was not able to get the trailer perfectly level, it is 1/2 inch lower in front, vs. 1-1/2 before. Experienced noticeable improvement in comfort over bumps, elimination of all porpoising improved steering response and now no movement when a semi passes.

I knew there would be an improvement but I was surprised by the degree.

[PB_NB]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

^
Fixed once and for all...after failed shims and other attempts.😕
A friend has a welding shop...he ran wide flat beads on three sides, top and both sides of the shank along with a wedge on the top.
I ground it down to fit, no more slop.

Bob
🇺🇸

You little trendsetter! I am going to get this done as well!

I think we need another thread: "What would Bob do?"

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by PB_NB

You little trendsetter! I am going to get this done as well!



I think we need another thread: "What would Bob do?"

WWBCD wristbands anyone??

Me, I wear my “Macgyver School of Engineering” alumni tee shirt all the time...

“Improvise or Die”

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by TravisH

Equal-I-zer is about ball height being perfectly level with AS hitch and then angle of head to adjust load to front. I think you can add 6 or 8 washers (?) I have 5 now.

Equalizer states that 8 is the maximum. The "rivet" is only so long! However, you can remove washers and raise the "L" brackets one hole also.

Not sure if I mentioned before but I have the 1200# bars. Equal-i-zer said they rate at highest load so if you're over 1000# tongue weight go with 1200#. I was at ~1050# so was trying to have the least WD as possible as some suggested too much strain can cause damage to AS frame.

I have the 1000# bars. Which probably explains why I need more washers. However, the ride is smooth. I'm at 6 washers now, and I'll try one more.