Prodigy Brake Controller V's Older Tekonsha

[jbailey01]

I am towing a 2001 34' Excella with a 2002 F350 & using the original Tekonsha Voyager brake controller.

I have been given a 2010 Prodigy controller. Would it be to my advantage to change them? Anyone had experience of doing this?
Thanks , Jim

[aftermath]

I don't know how your older Voyager works but the newer Prodigy control is a proportional set up. The inertia of the vehicle determines how much braking force is applied. The more you need, the more you get basically. Some older units were timed controllers which meant the longer you applied the brakes the more pressure was applied. This wasn't so good in panic stops or the cases when you were "on" the brakes to slow things just a little, say as in going down a long gentle incline.

I would opt to change it out if only to get the newer technology. Of course if this will be a difficult thing to do and if the older one is working fine it will be up to you. Again, check the Voyager, it might be proportional as well. I see that their website lists them as such but I don't know what they were like in 2002.

[Alumaholic]

I installed the new Prodigy in my tow vehicle when I purchased my new-used 2007 Airstream in Sep 2011.
I really miss the Voyager which I had used for years on my 23' Safari, my 27' Safari, and my 31' Sovereign.
The Voyager was also a proportional controller, but with older technology.
For whatever reason, I was able to really tweek the Voyager and find that "just right" setting that I can't seem to find with the Prodigy.

[Airstreamer67]

I was really satisfied with my 1996 Tekonsha Commander until last year when my trailer's brakes began acting up. The old Tek seemed to be sending full power to the brakes, but when I tried to stop the trailer, the LEDs showing how much power it was sending to the brakes began to blink and the trailer jerked as thought the brakes were cycling on-and-off.

I coudn't tell if the Tek was broken or the trailer brakes or the wiring system.

However, figuring my 16-year-old brake controller might be the culprit and maybe it was time for an upgrade anyway, I bought a new Prodigy P2 controller. As soon as I hooked up the new unit, the info screen told me my trailer brakes had a short. Sure enough, I found one of the electric magnets had fallen off its perch, causing the wires to intermittenly short out as the wheel rotated, causing the jerky brakes I had been experiencing.

So, even though the new technology doesn't stop my trailer any faster or smoother, it is a lot smarter in diagnosing any problems with the brake system.

[Phoenix]

Just my opinion, but the Prodigy has an excellent track record; and the Voyager is a little less capable. Switching them should be easy. You might even be lucky and find they use the same connector.

[Alumaholic]

Originally Posted by Phoenix

Just my opinion, but the Prodigy has an excellent track record; and the Voyager is a little less capable. Switching them should be easy. You might even be lucky and find they use the same connector.

My earlier post not withstanding, the Prodigy really is a better controller.
Unfortunately, it will not use the same connector. Tekonsha monkeyed with the pins. The old connector will connect physically, but not electronically (I was told by a tech at Camping World). Might be worth a try though.

[Phoenix]

WARNING: If you decide to switch brake controllers, you should verify the following before actually installing the Prodigy in place of the Voyager. Also, see additional notes a the end of this post.

From the Tekonsha Voyager and Prodigy wiring diagrams, it appears that the wire color codes are the same for both. However, the connectors for the two controllers may have the pins swapped around.

First, verify that the wires in the existing harness that plug into the Voyager are color coded as below:

* WHITE = Chassis ground; a.k.a., vehicle ground

* RED = Brake/stop light switch

* BLACK = +12 volts (power source from battery)

* BLUE = Brake controller output to trailer brakes


Then, cut and splice the wires to the Prodigy connector per the Prodigy wiring diagram. (Crimped butt-splices would work well for this.) Assuming the keying plug on the connector denotes pin 1, the pin-out appears to be:

* Pin 1 = WHITE (Chassis ground; a.k.a., vehicle ground)

* Pin 2 = RED (Brake/stop light switch)

* Pin 3 = BLACK (+12 volts, power source from battery)

* Pin 4 = BLUE (Brake controller output to trailer brakes)


IMPORTANT NOTE: If the wires are spliced to incorrect pins, the brake controller may not work properly. In addition, per Tekonsha's installation instructions, if the BLACK and WHITE wires are SWITCHED, THE BRAKE CONTROLLER WILL BE PERMANENTLY DAMAGED!

==========

The above information was deduced from various reference sources on the Internet. If anyone has the actual Prodigy wiring diagrams, please feel free to correct the above instructions, as necessary.

[jbailey01]

I have the new connector for the 2010 Prodigy brake controller. Shouldn't it be just a simple swap out of both?

Thanks to all above.

Jim

[Alumaholic]

Originally Posted by jbailey01

I have the new connector for the 2010 Prodigy brake controller. Shouldn't it be just a simple swap out of both?

Thanks to all above.

Jim

If you have the new Prodigy connector for your vehicle, just use it. Tekonsha made the new connector to accommodate the pin swap.