Newbie Towing 28 Feet of Trailer

[u_lima]

Howdy--



Am preparing to buy a '67 Ambassador 28Ft (first time trailer) to restore and live in, and was hoping for some insight as to what I'm getting myself into.


Tow vehicle is a '13 GMC Sierra 1500 with a supposed trailering capacity of 6500lbs. Everyone I've talked to said I should have no issues hauling the trailer (which I was told was ~4500, and not much in it save for the built-in furniture) with this truck. I does however lack a trailer brake controller, which I am hoping to get installed soon. The tires seem decent, and the hitch rates at 7500lbs max with a 2" ball. The hitch shaft however says 5000max, but seems like a cheap and easy upgrade if necessary.



I thought maybe to replace brake pads and/or rotors on the truck depending on what the shop advises (but don't always say they need replacing?), since I recently inherited the truck and have no idea what's been maintained.



Are sway bars/stabilizers necessary, overkill, in-between?


Without spending alot of money right away, I'm trying to figure out what upgrades/additions/fixes are absolutely needed for safe hauling now (2hr desert highway drive), and later on this year (cross-country). Is there anything Im missing here?



Thanks for any and all replies

[Fungus]

Welcome to the forum.

Keeping it simple…

Trailer tires usually age out before they wear out. Check the DOT date on the tires. Five years old is the limit for me. First two digits are week of the year of manufacture. Last two digits are the year of manufacture. If Goodyear Marathons, get rid of them.

Towing is usually limited by tongue weight and payload. Check the sticker of the door of your truck. Look for payload capacity. That is as much as the truck can safely carry. People. Dogs. Tongue weight. Hitch. Everything. It assumes only a full tank of fuel but the driver counts against payload. For tongue weight limits check the receiver for capacities. Rear axle weight rating is another concern.

You will need sway control and weight distribution. So look for a hitch that can get you within the limits of your loaded-for-camping trailer-truck combo. Lots of them out there. Lots of threads and arguments about which is best or good enough. My current hitch is a ProPride but there are many other capable hitches.

[jondrew55]

How far do you have to tow it? A 28’ trailer on a 2” ball? Doesn’t sound right. If you only need to get it 100miles or less, maybe rent a 1 ton truck which would have more pulling and braking power. You should have working trailer brakes to drive safely/legally I’d think.

[u_lima]

150 miles, but eventually will drive it farther after some remodeling inside.

You should have working trailer brakes to drive safely

thats what I was thinking too.

[u_lima]

[AlbertF]

Originally Posted by u_lima

Howdy--



Am preparing to buy a '67 Ambassador 28Ft (first time trailer) to restore and live in, and was hoping for some insight as to what I'm getting myself into.


Tow vehicle is a '13 GMC Sierra 1500 with a supposed trailering capacity of 6500lbs. Everyone I've talked to said I should have no issues hauling the trailer (which I was told was ~4500, and not much in it save for the built-in furniture) with this truck. I does however lack a trailer brake controller, which I am hoping to get installed soon. The tires seem decent, and the hitch rates at 7500lbs max with a 2" ball. The hitch shaft however says 5000max, but seems like a cheap and easy upgrade if necessary.



I thought maybe to replace brake pads and/or rotors on the truck depending on what the shop advises (but don't always say they need replacing?), since I recently inherited the truck and have no idea what's been maintained.



Are sway bars/stabilizers necessary, overkill, in-between?


Without spending alot of money right away, I'm trying to figure out what upgrades/additions/fixes are absolutely needed for safe hauling now (2hr desert highway drive), and later on this year (cross-country). Is there anything Im missing here?



Thanks for any and all replies

The trailer is much lighter than newer models. 4500 lbs empty sounds right. GVWR of the Airstream is probably around 6200 lbs.

It will probably have a 2-5/16” coupler, not 2”.

Tongue weight is probably around 450 lbs dry, according to the vintage Airstream weight chart. Loaded including water it might be 650.

You have plenty of truck for a vintage trailer. I would always recommend a weight distributing hitch for maximum control.

[u_lima]

Woah, what I could find online for the truck model specs gives me a headache as a newbie

Gross Axle Wt Rating - Front
3600 lbs 3600.0 min 3600.0 max
Gross Axle Wt Rating - Rear
3750 lbs 3750.0 min 3750.0 max
Curb Weight - Front
2955 lbs 2955.0 min 2955.0 max
Curb Weight - Rear
2063 lbs 2063.0 min 2063.0 max
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating Cap
6400 lbs 6400.0 min 7100.0 max
Gross Combined Wt Rating
12000, 9500 lbs 9500.0 min 12000.0 max
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Trailer Wt.
5000, 4500 lbs 4500.0 min 5000.0 max
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Tongue Wt.
500, 450 lbs 450.0 min 500.0 max
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Trailer Wt.
6700, 4700 lbs 4700.0 min 6700.0 max
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Tongue Wt.
1005, 705 lbs 705.0 min 1005.0 max
Maximum Trailering Capacity
6500 lbs 6500.0 min 6500.0 max

Here is info directly from the truck:

[AlbertF]

Originally Posted by u_lima

Woah, what I could find online for the truck model specs gives me a headache as a newbie

Gross Axle Wt Rating - Front
3600 lbs 3600.0 min 3600.0 max
Gross Axle Wt Rating - Rear
3750 lbs 3750.0 min 3750.0 max
Curb Weight - Front
2955 lbs 2955.0 min 2955.0 max
Curb Weight - Rear
2063 lbs 2063.0 min 2063.0 max
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating Cap
6400 lbs 6400.0 min 7100.0 max
Gross Combined Wt Rating
12000, 9500 lbs 9500.0 min 12000.0 max
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Trailer Wt.
5000, 4500 lbs 4500.0 min 5000.0 max
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Tongue Wt.
500, 450 lbs 450.0 min 500.0 max
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Trailer Wt.
6700, 4700 lbs 4700.0 min 6700.0 max
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Tongue Wt.
1005, 705 lbs 705.0 min 1005.0 max
Maximum Trailering Capacity
6500 lbs 6500.0 min 6500.0 max

Here is info directly from the truck:

Attachment 414162
Attachment 414164
Attachment 414165
Attachment 414166
Attachment 414163

You're in good shape. Lots of payload capacity at 1722 lbs. You've got more than a thousand pounds for passengers and stuff in the truck after the trailer is hitched up. As I said, empty tongue weight (that would be without propane) from the factory is about 450 lbs. Loaded will be in the 650 range. You're nicely within published limits.

You will need a weight distributing hitch when the trailer is loaded. While I would always advise one, and stability would be compromised without it, you would be within the numbers to tow it home on the ball. In reality, since the trailer has been partially gutted, tongue weight might be a bit low. My sense is that older Airstreams tow nicely with about 11% tongue weight. If you're getting a bunch of parts and accessories (normal with any old vehicle) load them in the front.

That ball mount with the 2" ball is for towing a utility trailer or a boat trailer - not a travel trailer. You need a 2-5/16" ball, and you need to make sure it's at the right height - probably about 18" off the ground. It's important that the Airstream be close to level when towing; if it's nose high, you will put more load on the back tires.

In the longer term, you will want to buy a weight distributing hitch and set it up properly. The best? Around here that's a bit like politics and religion, but I've used Eaz-Lift for over 15 years and have been perfectly happy with that. A tapered round bar design is arguably the best; a good ride, easy on the trailer structure, but becomes progressively stiffer as weight is added.

When you buy one, we can direct you to good advice for setting it up.

[AlbertF]

A handy reference:

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...ts-guide-7.pdf

Note that with older units, the weight may not have included the awning and propane.

[u_lima]

You will need a weight distributing hitch when the trailer is loaded. While I would always advise one, and stability would be compromised without it, you would be within the numbers to tow it home on the ball.

That ball mount with the 2" ball is for towing a utility trailer or a boat trailer - not a travel trailer. You need a 2-5/16" ball, and you need to make sure it's at the right height - probably about 18" off the ground. It's important that the Airstream be close to level when towing; if it's nose high, you will put more load on the back tires.

super helpful thanks! if I can at least get it settled after a slow and steady 150 mile drive, I can have more time to research an appropriate weight distro hitch. in the meantime, I will try and upgrade the ball/shank and get the drop height as close to where it needs to be.

The best option is to buy a weight distributing hitch and set it up properly....When you buy one, we can direct you to good advice for setting it up.

I would like to, the name Curt keeps coming up recommended.

maybe something like this?

Curt MV Round Bar.

[u_lima]

1967AMBASSADOR28 DOUBLE- DRY WEIGHT: 4470HITCH WEIGHT: 445 BALL HEIGHT: 21.5

21.5" ball height? hmm, I wonder if that the optimal height of the top of the ball once hooked up? the ball on my hitch comes out to 20" from the top to the ground, as it is now.

I reckon installing the weight distro hitch would even everything out. I will keep trying to look into getting one before picking it up. one trick is going to be installing in small town at who knows where and at what hour before towing back to home base

[AlbertF]

Originally Posted by u_lima

21.5" ball height? hmm, I wonder if that the optimal height of the top of the ball once hooked up? the ball on my hitch comes out to 20" from the top to the ground, as it is now.

I reckon installing the weight distro hitch would even everything out. I will keep trying to look into getting one before picking it up. one trick is going to be installing in small town at who knows where and at what hour before towing back to home base

You might be good with that height. The older models seem to sit a bit higher - the the axles have probably sagged a bit with time.

[mykytiukr]

Well….If you need to get to optimum safety, a WD hitch is recommended. However, for a 4500 lb trailer I believe it to be a luxury. My son has pretty much the same truck as you and has pulled my 24 ft Tradewind loaded, truck and AS for a week of boondocking a couple times. 600 mile round trip! No WD hitch. Also thousands of miles with his car 26 ft car trailer with 4000 to 7000 lb cars and trucks loaded. No WD hitch. Just drive sensible!

I do highly recommend/require that you have all the brakes working properly and your new brake controller tuned properly! This is your number one priority!
Also have some RV mirrors or mirror extensions installed as you’re gonna have a hard time seeing anything alongside the trailer and nothing behind it with the mirrors on your truck no.

Motor On!!!

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Based on the "max weight" number of 500 pounds on the hitch, I think you are a bit close to the limit if you are towing on the ball.

Bob

[DAVSCH]

I’m looking at the picture provided. Looks like one wheel there in a two-axel hole. Does anyone see the other axel/wheel?? This cell phone screen sometimes fuzzes thing out. Was that 28 footer a Bambi???

[cbburke]

Until 1969 Airstream used a 2" coupler. From that time forward their coupler is for a 2 5/16" ball.
So, unless the coupler has been replaced it will be for a 2" ball.

[superChop]

Your bigger problems will be the renovation, which will include new axles, subfloor and potentially appliances. Forty year old water lines, age of tires and many more things need to be considered, before taking it out on the road, after you get it home. We have a ‘64 and ‘89 and very familiar with the Reno considerations.

[jeffb831]

Originally Posted by DAVSCH

I’m looking at the picture provided. Looks like one wheel there in a two-axel hole. Does anyone see the other axel/wheel?? This cell phone screen sometimes fuzzes thing out. Was that 28 footer a Bambi???

There are 2 axles - one of the wheels has a white rim and the other has a black rim.

With the shadow, the second axle is hard to see but the bearing cap is visible.

[Trowbridge]

Have your brake pads and rotors checked before towing the trailer. That's a quick fix and you need to know.

Lacking brakes on the trailer is a problem. You will need to drive carefully and more slowly getting home, especially with a 1/2 ton truck. Leave plenty of distance between you and vehicles ahead. Also, consider driving at low traffic times of day.

Also, per an above post, the tires should not be much more than 6 years old. Even if the trailer tires were mounted brand new and still have nubs on full depth treads, rubber ages and will crack under load. Don't do it.

A 1967 trailer will probably have worn out axles. Airstreams use a rubber torsion axle which becomes like petrified wood over extended time. You can tow it, but you won't have any suspension travel. That will cause the trailer to sway much more and follow ridges in the highway.

We towed our 1964 Sovereign 30' home from Southern California to Northern California after buying it. Even with a 3/4 ton truck and (too) many years of towing experience, I was on the edge of my seat above 55 mph going up and over a steep section of highway known as the 'Grapevine' with many fast moving semis passing us. When we later had our axles replaced with new ones, no more problem. Our truck now easily pulls our trailer smoothly and easily >65 on smooth roads. We do not use an equalizer anti-sway hitch at all...but a 3/4 ton truck is more stable than a 1/2 ton truck.

Just be careful getting the trailer home. Then make the trailer safer as you modify it during your renovation project.

Finally, your title is "Newbie Towing...". If you do have towing experience with other types of trailers and this is just your first time towing an Airstream, ignore my comment here. But if you really are brand-new to towing trailers - - get someone with trailering experience to drive the truck and trailer for you. Trailering takes some learning, and pulling an older 28' trailer without brakes or suspension travel in a lighter truck is not how to learn.

[u_lima]

Originally Posted by mykytiukr

I do highly recommend/require that you have all the brakes working properly and your new brake controller tuned properly! This is your number one priority!
Also have some RV mirrors or mirror extensions installed as you’re gonna have a hard time seeing anything alongside the trailer and nothing behind it with the mirrors on your truck no.

thanks and agreed, this is what I am making sure I have first. I have some blind spot mirrors on the truck for now, hopefully that will suffice for getting it home.