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Old 02-18-2016, 08:58 AM   #41
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This from Chevy:
"WEIGHT-DISTRIBUTING HITCH This hitch type distributes the
trailer tongue load by using spring bars to shift some of the
hitch weight forward onto the tow vehicle’s front axle and
rearward to the trailer’s axles."

Note they say SOME of the hitch weight to the front axle and some to the trailer axle(s)....so rating the bars to the ENTIRE load is inappropriate, again, IMO.
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:59 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by kscherzi View Post
Switz makes a good point about tongue weight. The Airstream claimed factory weights are notoriously low. My 27FB 730 lb factory specification weight was closer to 900 lbs when weighed using a Sureline scale. You may actually need heavier bars than you think.
Always go by the scale with a loaded AS and TV. Only definitive way to determine your needs....and every owner has different needs based on their configuration and load.
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:11 AM   #43
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Question Tongue weight or ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by JCWDCW View Post
My experience is that you need bars rated higher than the tongue weight ..obviously, but if you go too light then the bars get bent severely and that puts a strain on everything. I would try bars rated about 100 lbs heavier than your tongue weight. The bars should not be flexed too severely when the rig is pulled up level; if they are then they are too light.
JCW
TW.....not so much.

The rating of the bars would be based on the weight being MOVED to get the AS & TV level with the proper amount restored to the FA.
This is where CAT numbers & receiver design come into play.

Bob
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:17 AM   #44
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I agree with Bob.

Continuing....Blue Ox says to match bars to the trailer TW ( contradiction to Hensley AND Reese):

http://www.hitchcity.com/Towing-BlueOx-WD.html
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:19 AM   #45
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Yes, loaded Airstream and loaded truck.

Are there other considerations, such as longer wheelbase truck or Hensley/ProPride hitches which move the w.d. bars farther away from the truck's rear axle? Does truck receiver or frame flex come into play, taking up some of the w.d. bar's force as weight distribution is applied?
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:42 AM   #46
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Doug,

All that comes into play, but would be accounted for when scaling and comparing WD applied and not applied numbers. It could affect bar selection, certainly.

Bottom Line: Manufacturers contradict one another, may not use the same rating system, and use different materials. We are on our own to experiment and potentially buy more than one hitch system or bar rating before we can get it right. It would be nice if the manufacturers reps could talk to this, but IME with talking to several of them, neither they, nor most of the customers they talk to can discuss at this level of technical expertise.

I believe Hensley has it right, but then....why don't they offer a bar and bushing set below 1000#s????? I think I know why, but it flies in the face of their position in the above link.
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:05 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Doug,

All that comes into play, but would be accounted for when scaling and comparing WD applied and not applied numbers. It could affect bar selection, certainly.

Bottom Line: Manufacturers contradict one another, may not use the same rating system, and use different materials. We are on our own to experiment and potentially buy more than one hitch system or bar rating before we can get it right. It would be nice if the manufacturers reps could talk to this, but IME with talking to several of them, neither they, nor most of the customers they talk to can discuss at this level of technical expertise.

I believe Hensley has it right, but then....why don't they offer a bar and bushing set below 1000#s????? I think I know why, but it flies in the face of their position in the above link.

Those Hensley links - it doesn't sound like he's actually talking about a Hensley in his description. If you have 1400# bars and only dial in say 2" of the WD jacks, you're probably only moving a couple hundred pounds to the front axle - maybe you'd need 3" with 1000# bars to do the same. I guess I don't understand what difference the classification of the bar would mean if you only dial in a portion of its total capacity? And wouldn't that be the same on the kinds of hitches where you twist up a certain amount of links?

Maybe I'm missing your point (I can be slow on the uptake sometimes &#128515
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:35 AM   #48
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OK, I had a blinding flash of the obvious!

The spring bars may be changed, leaving the original 'head' alone.

So, at the advice of many (but certainly not all), I ordered the Reese 'SC' hitch with the 1200-pound bars. If that turns out to be too much, it's relatively inexpensive to buy a pair of 800-pound bars... there's nothing in between.

Thanks to all who contributed here!!

Rob
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:19 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by RFP View Post
OK, I had a blinding flash of the obvious!

The spring bars may be changed, leaving the original 'head' alone.

So, at the advice of many (but certainly not all), I ordered the Reese 'SC' hitch with the 1200-pound bars. If that turns out to be too much, it's relatively inexpensive to buy a pair of 800-pound bars... there's nothing in between.

Thanks to all who contributed here!!

Rob
Yeah, Reese allows for mix and match of bars. Most, if no all others do not.
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:26 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Those Hensley links - it doesn't sound like he's actually talking about a Hensley in his description. If you have 1400# bars and only dial in say 2" of the WD jacks, you're probably only moving a couple hundred pounds to the front axle - maybe you'd need 3" with 1000# bars to do the same. I guess I don't understand what difference the classification of the bar would mean if you only dial in a portion of its total capacity? And wouldn't that be the same on the kinds of hitches where you twist up a certain amount of links?

Maybe I'm missing your point (I can be slow on the uptake sometimes &#128515
The Hensley write up seems to be a theoretical exercise covering the principles of WD, not just their product.

They don't all flex, dynamically, at a given WD "lift". Material and taper come into play.

There's a thread around here (2011?) which goes into this subject in depth. I'll try and find it, but it prompted Andy to do an experiment with a few bars and he has it on his website:

http://www.inlandrv.com/articles/hit...bar-story.html
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:28 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RFP View Post
OK, I had a blinding flash of the obvious!

The spring bars may be changed, leaving the original 'head' alone.

So, at the advice of many (but certainly not all), I ordered the Reese 'SC' hitch with the 1200-pound bars. If that turns out to be too much, it's relatively inexpensive to buy a pair of 800-pound bars... there's nothing in between.

Thanks to all who contributed here!!

Rob
If I were you, I'd start with 600 or 800#ers. I used 600# on my 30 Classic when I ran a Reese DC. Still have it. It is my backup hitch.
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:32 AM   #52
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Here's the test thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...hes-72197.html
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:32 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
If I were you, I'd start with 600 or 800#ers. I used 600# on my 30 Classic when I ran a Reese DC. Still have it. It is my backup hitch.

NOW
you tell me!
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:34 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by RFP View Post

NOW
you tell me!
I did! Up Thread....in so MANY words.

I'd wager from my experience and your brochure TW, that you'll wind up at 850 - 900#s after you're all loaded up with gear. That's right at the same weight I am at with my 30'er. For sure, IMO, 1200# is too much....600# would be my preference, and 800# would be alright probably.
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:38 AM   #55
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I did! Up Thread....in so MANY words.
Sorry, I misplaced my Captain Midnight Decoder Ring
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:41 AM   #56
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CRAP!!!!! I thought I smelled a brain FART!!!!

I had a flash and ran down to the basement to look...it's been 4 years since I looked at my bars....they are 800#ers!!!!!

Substitute 800 for all the 600# comments above.

If I were you, order the 800# bars..

WHEW, panic over.....
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:50 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
<<< snip >>>

If I were you, order the 800# bars..

WHEW, panic over.....
Well, probably so. The hitch with the 1200-pound bard is on its way from the warehouse near Dallas... I'll have it tomorrow. Worst case is that I buy a pair of 800-ers and that's that.

Please forgive my inability to figure this stuff out; I'm new to anything larger than a 17' Casita. I realize that 'recommendation' can be found in 'experience stories' ... I'm just not smart enough yet to be able to do that. I do appreciate your input!

Rob
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Old 02-18-2016, 12:18 PM   #58
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Change the order while you can. 1200 lb. bar will tare your trailer up.
if the truck is too lightly sprung you can change the spring pack or add a helper spring.
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Old 02-18-2016, 12:48 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Those Hensley links - it doesn't sound like he's actually talking about a Hensley in his description. If you have 1400# bars and only dial in say 2" of the WD jacks, you're probably only moving a couple hundred pounds to the front axle - maybe you'd need 3" with 1000# bars to do the same. I guess I don't understand what difference the classification of the bar would mean if you only dial in a portion of its total capacity? And wouldn't that be the same on the kinds of hitches where you twist up a certain amount of links?

Maybe I'm missing your point (I can be slow on the uptake sometimes ��)
Steve, I've wondered the same. I think the difference is in flexibility of the bars so we and our Airstream do get a decent ride, but maybe more importantly we don't over stress our A-frames and receivers at driveway entrances such as the sharp angle imposed by some gas stations.

That said, ProPride recommended 1400# bars for our FC 25 and Ram 1500 full coil spring, 120" wheelbase. Great ride, no porpoising, nothing breaks or gets tossed around in the Airstream. Using Inland Andy's technique of jumping on the hitch connection, there is a couple of inches of movement which he likes to see. Although some of that flexibility is in the truck's coil springs and and Airstream's torsion bar axles.

There's more to this than simple bar rating (surprise, surprise). As Steve said we need to experiment with our own particular rig to get the desired results. This is our third w.d. hitch in eight years.
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Old 02-18-2016, 01:14 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
The Hensley write up seems to be a theoretical exercise covering the principles of WD, not just their product.



They don't all flex, dynamically, at a given WD "lift". Material and taper come into play.



There's a thread around here (2011?) which goes into this subject in depth. I'll try and find it, but it prompted Andy to do an experiment with a few bars and he has it on his website:



http://www.inlandrv.com/articles/hit...bar-story.html

Thanks. Read the entire thread....

1) my head hurts as much now as yours did in 2011

2) quite a bit of drama there before getting to the punchline

3). The punchline still leaves me wondering but I'm no engineer either and think I'm probably asking the wrong question.

I know that I went with 1000# bars on my ProPride because of the countless threads from Andy that warned of ruining the trailer with too much stiffness in the bars (especially with a 2500 truck). Upgrading to the 1400# bars hasn't hurt the trailer at all. I can't tell if it's that or the proper reinstallation of the hitch by Colonial that improved the ability to distribute weight and reduce porpoising. But no damage or popped rivets.
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