Lost Trailer Brake 2016 2500 Durmax

[slowmover]

Thank you, 66Overlander.

[66Overlander]

Originally Posted by kd7trx

There are a lot of plug options on Pollak's web site. I'll start studying them, but if you have any advice or insights, please share.


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

If I remember correctly, the Pollak 12-706 trailer plug was what we found used on some trailers and thus was tested in the study.

[slowmover]

It's a flat blade for trailer end.

[Seabloom]

Originally Posted by rpenczek

Coming home from the JC with my 2005 Classic and about 2 miles from storage (in Indianapolis) I got a trailer brake warning light on the dash. I cleared it with the control and then noticed there was no brake output to the trailer while braking.

I tried the manual lever on the brake controller and no trailer brakes there either. Everything else seemed in order, running lights, tail lights, etc...

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Hi rpenczek.

I have a 2012 GMC 2500 HD and tow a 76 Overlander. This summer on our vacation I hit a massive overpass on ramp in the Calgary area which jolted my entire truck and trailer. Immediately there after I got an error and like you my trailer lights all worked but I had no brakes to the trailer. I did a lot of google searching that night and found that the first place to check was the fuse group under the hood. In the end one of my 'J - Fuses' was blown. I think it was a 30 amp. Weird thing was there is a "trl brk" flat fuse but that's for lights. The ones I am talking about have the glass top to them. I am really sorry but I can't remember what it was called it was something like "Aux 2". Your onboard braking system is referred to as many things in the manual ITBC = Integrated Brake Controller, TBM = Trailer Brake Module (is under the frame near the rear tires). Anyway the fix for me was the glass fuse and it worked instantly without any other issues. If you can't figure it our send me an email to kkseabloom@hotmail.com and I will spend some time looking at my underhood fuse panel and see if I can remember.

I should stress again, the fuse I fixed was not the one I would have expected it to be. Make sure you check them all even if you have to take them out and use a multi-meter.

Best regards,

Kristien

[Wingeezer]

I had a lot of trouble with the built in brake system in our 2008 GMC 2500HD.

It kept on popping up dash messages indicating problems with the traier brake system (on the truck, not the trailer - that is a different message!)

After multiple trips back to the GM dealer wherein they could not find the problem (but charged me anyway!) They finally seemed to resolve it by replacing the trailer brake control module located on the truck frame near the driver's side rear wheel.

Touch wood I think it is ok now, it has been for the last year or so. I was almost at wits end and wanting to bypass the system and use a regular aftermarket brake controller!

With all the messing around I went through with this frustrating system, I am at east well set up now to do some trouble shooting!

I have a digital AC-DC clamp meter and adapter plug I can use to measure brake current flowing through the umbilical to the trailer and to each wheel.

I made up a dummy load of four old brake magnets that I can plug into the truck 7 way connector to simulate the brakes to use with my clamp meter to see what the truck system is actually doing!

Hopefully I won't need any of this - brakes are fine for the moment!


Brian.

[Ruscal]

This problem seems pretty widespread. I thought I was alone with a flaky receptacle. I purchased an OEM replacement receptacle for my new tug. It was very pricey, so I figured it would be of higher quality than the run of the mill offerings. I admit the orientation is flap to the right, so it is not helping hold the upper pins in place. I also admit that my trailer is 8 years old with an original Airstream plug attached. That said I can not maintain a usable connection. The first thing I did was research trailer end plugs to replace my 8 year old one. Guess what? only plastic clones of one another available. One metal exception looked like it was engineered by ancient civilization. We are talking safety here ladies and gentlemen. if it costs $1.00 to produce, and it retails for $8.00, is that the criteria for a needed price point to manufacture these cheesy objects? When your brakes don't stop and your lights don't light how much danger are you in? Why not sit down and design something that actually works? What if it costs $25.00? Who cares, as long as the brakes function to avoid hitting that pedestrian. Military grade Cannon plugs are examples of what can be done when reliability matters, but cost of those pushes them out of feasibility for this market. Just taking features of them like threaded locking rings would be doable. The flap could then be just used for weather protection. No orientation problems then. Some Cannon plugs have a removable screw cap for weather protection. The cap is tethered with a short chain so you don't lose it. The flap may not seal as well as the caps. Plated brass for contacts would be better than plated steel seen on cheapie plugs. The ground and charging pins should be sized to handle some big wire too.
This market needs an infusion of quality.....
Russ

[dznf0g]

Check out Ez Connector. I'll be going that route if I ever run into issues, which I haven't thus far.

[66Overlander]

Regarding the current 7-way plug vs military alteratives, it was a very specific design criteria to allow the plug to pull out of the receptacle without damaging either part should a driver forget to unplug after taking the trailer off the hitch ball. This may be a rare event, but it could turn out quite expensive if a twist lock connector was used, potentially causing damage to both the truck and trailer.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by 66Overlander

Regarding the current 7-way plug vs military alteratives, it was a very specific design criteria to allow the plug to pull out of the receptacle without damaging either part should a driver forget to unplug after taking the trailer off the hitch ball. This may be a rare event, but it could turn out quite expensive if a twist lock connector was used, potentially causing damage to both the truck and trailer.

Joe,

What twist lock alternative are you referring to? I ask because with the EZ Connector, my understanding was that the rare earth magnet is the "locking" mechanism and I can find no reference to a twist lock. However, when I watch the video at their website, it appears they are giving the connector a slight counter-clockwise turn after inserting it. Does anyone have one of these who can clarify?

[Ruscal]

Originally Posted by 66Overlander

Regarding the current 7-way plug vs military alteratives, it was a very specific design criteria to allow the plug to pull out of the receptacle without damaging either part should a driver forget to unplug after taking the trailer off the hitch ball. This may be a rare event, but it could turn out quite expensive if a twist lock connector was used, potentially causing damage to both the truck and trailer.

Joe,
That does make it more challenging to design in "idiot proof". Getting enough tension on the pins, but not allow the tension of 7 pins to pull the wire through the strain relief. I wonder if round pins work better than blades? Regular house 120v receptacles have blades that last for a lot of cycles and have no locking dogs, but they get loose over time. Round pins can be Coke bottle shaped for a little locking action if the socket is correspondingly detented. Anderson Powerpole connectors have really good semi bladed pins with ramps and dogs to keep them together. They produce a very satisfying snap when plugging or unplugging. You wire the conductors directly to the pins by crimping, and then snap them into the housing. To integrate their system into a RV plug it would likely have to be a little bulkier than what we are familiar with.
Russ

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Check out Ez Connector. I'll be going that route if I ever run into issues, which I haven't thus far.

It's been on my list for years. Just wish my list didn't keep growing.

[Jacob D]

Originally Posted by Jacob D

What everyone else said plus.....Check the wire connections inside the trailer plug and use a volt/ohm meter to check the receptacle on the TV to ensure your TV is generating a brake signal.

Just wanted to add that my 50 year old Overlander is still original with a Pollack round pin connector, 7 pin. This rig has been in my family since new and has been mine for almost 30 years. This Pollack system is very sturdy, with good connections, but slightly hard to disconnect as there is fairly large contact surface between the pins inside the receptacle part on the TV and the trailer plug which slides deeply into the TV socket. I have been told this system still exists but is used mostly on semi rigs.

About twice a year I spray both halves of the connection with contact cleaner and using a Qtip I clean each pin and pin receiver and then put a small amount of contact grease on the round pins to make disconnect a little easier.

The only problem I have ever had was a loose wire in the TV socket which I had installed myself on a 1970 Cadillac which happened to be the brake wire; entirely my fault.

[Ruscal]

Today I had to hook up the Airstream to get ready for her tomorrow appointment. This time I inspected the trailer end of the plug. It had corroded brass terminals and the 2 piece individual contacts were not touching each other which means they would not grab a flat blade when inserted. No tension. I carefully inserted a flat screwdriver blade behind each contact to tighten their grip. I then took a small diamond file and removed all corrosion from the contacts. I blew the crud out with compressed air and plugged her in. Guess what..... No brakes. Same as last time. So I kept wiggling and re-inserting the plug for 15 minutes but no brakes. The vehicle end receptacle is a brand new Pollack OEM style with flap lid to the right opposing another 4 pin receptacle with its own flap cover. The trailer end plug has no name, and may be original Airstream in 2008. It is molded black plastic with no removable parts. (it is what it is) I may just cut it off and try one of the available cheap replaceable ends to see if it solves the intermittent problem. Eventually today I got a brake signal, but I have no idea what caused it to start working. Not confidence inspiring....
one could always choose to go to a non industry standard plug and receptacle that has a good reputation, but you would not be able to tow other friend's rigs, and they could not tow yours. I guess I'll try a new trailer end plug and see if I can get my reliability up to 50% from the 3% I have now. Argh.
Russ