just picked up used equalizer 600 4 way

[starcraft]

The stainless tank cover is in way only spot I found for mounting hardware puts it at 26 1/2 inches center ball to bracket. Manual says 27 min perfect being 32inches. I could cut stainless tank or run without.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by starcraft

The stainless tank cover is in way only spot I found for mounting hardware puts it at 26 1/2 inches center ball to bracket. Manual says 27 min perfect being 32inches. I could cut stainless tank or run without.

Hi, maybe you could post a picture so we can see what your set-up looks like. My hitch was originally set at 29"s and I moved it back to 32"s. This picture was before I moved it back to 32"s.

[starcraft]

Looks like I need to drop front down grade 8 bolts appear larger than 3/4 need to do some shopping. Measurement of frame in back 13inch and change while front is 18 and change. I did move brackets back 29inches and set stainless cover on top, tilts forward. Is there a way to move rod for tank cover to spin it longer. Bottom bolt came loose but top is on there. Would rather not cut cover if I can get away with it. First 2 pictures are at 26 1/2 front cover with bracket. Last is 29 part bracket under cover.

[xrvr]

Tilt the ball down toward the trailer, this is better and will lower the front of the trailer. Jim

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by zigzagguzzi

Tilt the ball down toward the trailer, this is better and will lower the front of the trailer. Jim

Hi, looking at your pictures, I can see that the ball mount is tilted pretty good. But it is either a bad camera angle, your truck is down hill, or your truck's receiver is bent upward. I see what you mean by the tank cover since your's is different than mine. Set up your hitch as best as you can with the cover off, and maybe put a spacer on top of your frame, the same thickness as the hitch bolt. This would allow your tank cover to at least fit level. I don't think that I would modify the tank cover by drilling or cutting into it.

[dkottum]

Set the Equal-I-Zer support brackets back the full 32". The Equal-I-Zer has the least flexible wd bars on the market and the Airstream 16' has a light frame. The longer bar setback will give the bars the most opportunity for flex, which won't be much.

doug k

[Wsmith]

Originally Posted by starcraft

Looks like I need to drop front down grade 8 bolts appear larger than 3/4 need to do some shopping. Measurement of frame in back 13inch and change while front is 18 and change. I did move brackets back 29inches and set stainless cover on top, tilts forward. Is there a way to move rod for tank cover to spin it longer. Bottom bolt came loose but top is on there. Would rather not cut cover if I can get away with it. First 2 pictures are at 26 1/2 front cover with bracket. Last is 29 part bracket under cover.

It appears that as Robert mentioned your receiver is not level on the truck and you probably do not need the spring bars on a 16' Bambi except to damper street dips.. You can tear the tongue off the Airstream in time if you apply too much force from the truck to trailer.( lower the back arms) You are 5" too high at the ball if you are on level ground, and you have to be on level ground to set up the hitch. You may need to flip the ball mount bracket over by unbolting the head so you can lower it the needed distance. If you slack off the bar tension you will get closer to the 13" at the ball.

[dkottum]

The purpose of the "spring" or weight distribution bars is to redistribute the weight of the trailer tongue to the truck and trailer axles, and on this style hitch, provide sway resistance with friction of the bars moving at the head and at the bar brackets mounted on the trailer frame. The weight distribution is important because it puts weight back on the truck steering axle that is lost when the trailer is dropped on the hitch ball.

If the head is tilted down towards the rear (as it should be), additional sway resistance is provided as the trailer moves sideways, however more stress is also put on the the trailer frame, especially in dips on the road such as gas station entrances. Take these slowly.

doug k

[starcraft]

I can move it back little bit but frame cross member is in this location as well. I made no adjustments to used hitch just slapped it on. 6 washers on adjustment part. If I remove 2 big grade 8s can I take one washer out. So your thought is to drop one hole for receiver get ball lined up at 13inches or so either flipping it or dropping.

[starcraft]

I bought 1 1/8 wrench to loosen hardware and removed 2 washers. Now set with 4 washers. Loaded up with bars rear frame is 15inches, front 14 3/4. I am gaining 1/2 inch with bars no bars 32, no hitch resting height 33 1/2 rear right tire. Also I think my final setting is one hole lower on shank.

[68 TWind]

You can download the manuel from Equalizer, if you haven't already. Excellent info in setting it up. Also, if you have any questions, and I did on mine, call the company. The folks at the help desk were very friendly and answered all my questions on set up.
Make sure you use some grease on the pivots on the head but not on the brackets where the sway bars rest. Lot's of squeaking and creaking if you don't.

[starcraft]

measure bottom portion of frame in couple places in front and then check rear. I know with regular mounts you want trailer as level as possible. I would try next bottom hole then adjust your bars. Mine is currently under WD but think when I add weight in truck should be close. It is better than inexpensive hitch though my calcs are closer, this small trailer should not need much. I do not see any other holes on your adj shank did you cut it. The bottom portion of my ball looks like it lines up with truck 2 inch receiver yours way over top.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by starcraft

measure bottom portion of frame in couple places in front and then check rear. I know with regular mounts you want trailer as level as possible. I would try next bottom hole then adjust your bars. Mine is currently under WD but think when I add weight in truck should be close. It is better than inexpensive hitch though my calcs are closer, this small trailer should not need much. I do not see any other holes on your adj shank did you cut it. The bottom portion of my ball looks like it lines up with truck 2 inch receiver yours way over top.

Hi, after about six years of use, my trailer did settle some, and I did lower it one hole to level out my trailer. [this was also done after this picture was taken]

[Farmer Dan]

Starcraft
I recommend the bracket jackets that are offered by equalizer. They will take most of the noise out of the bars sliding on the "L" brkt. I used the jackets on my 1000# setup and was very happy with the performance on my 3500 mi. trip to FL. I was so impressed with the performance overall that I got a used 600# Equalizer hitch to use on my 25' Excella.
Dan

[JimGolden]

I use a 14,000/1400 pound capacity Eq on my 34 footer and have been very happy with it.

On the noise....I don't worry about it. You don't move the bars enough on the road to hear it. Only at low speed and tight turns will you notice that you sound like a machine shop coming through the campground

It's a good hitch though. The ball cant angle is one of the variables that you use to set it up. You do want the ball to lean back, toward the trailer. Changing one washer's worth of cant kind of gets you between two notches on the L brackets. So if one hole on the L bracket is too low, and the next raises you too high, go back to the low and change a washer on the cant angle. It took me a couple hours to set mine up, but once a person did it, you could probably set one up in 45 minutes pretty handily.

I agree with the others on the WD bars....you don't want them very heavy on this little camper.

Best of luck!