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04-05-2020, 10:16 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
2017 28' Flying Cloud
2014 25' FB Flying Cloud
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Georgetown (winter)Thayne (summer)
, Texas & Wyoming
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,619
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Blue Ox is great; we have had 3 over the years with 3 of our different AS's. Lots of choices for the other stuff you asked about...all good.
I would agree with others on this thread; the 1/2T is fine for 25's. The "payload" sticker in the doorjamb is what you want to be concerned about and most 1/2T's "fairly well equiped", will not have more then 1300-1400 payload rating on the door jamb. I would suggest a 3/4 or 1/T for a 30' for a host of reasons including payload...control and braking being at the forefront of concerns. Power/torque also important in the mountains. Better to have more then you need, then to wish you had listened, later. Good luck!
__________________
Empty Nesters; Gypsies on the road! 2017 28' Twin Flying Cloud
2017 F250 King Ranch, 4X4, 6.7L, Blue-Ox WDH
Summer-Star Valley Ranch RV Resort (Thayne, WY); Winter-Sun City (Georgetown,TX)
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04-05-2020, 03:08 PM
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#22
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Rivet Master
South East
, Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midwest Greg
Newbie here who is ordering a new trailer and researching hitch works.
Blue Ox highly recommended (evidently doesn't make noise, no grease on hands when attaching sway bars, effective when backing).
Anyone care to weigh-in on this hitch?
Also would appreciate any quality brand suggestions for:
Surge protector, 50 amp adapter, hitch lock, sewer hose and adapter, wheel chocks/block kit, in-line water filter/hose, tank chemicals....anything else I need?
Thanks!
Greg
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Lots of folks use the Blue Ox with good results. Lots also use others in the same price range with equally good results. Personally, I use a Propride. After reading hundreds of posts, I’ve only seen 1 or 2 who swapped back from a Hensley style hitch, most who swapped from any other hitch seem to say “why didn’t I do this sooner?”. I know one guy who busted his toe with, I think, a Blue Ox, – the WD bar snapped down unexpectedly. Several long threads on this site discussing these hitches. Proride WD bars are permanently installed and can be adjusted with a battery drill/driver. You don’t need a hitch lock with this style hitch – few people have the correct stinger needed to hitch up. They are expensive but I think worth the price.
I currently have a hard wired Progressive EMS. Bought hard wire because I was worried about accidently leaving it at a camp site… FWIW, If I were buying new today, I would buy a Southwire model. Mike Sokol, the RV Electric guy has stated that Southwire has features not available on other brands that make it a bit better unit.
I use some 2x10s for leveling, bought as stair treads from a big box store.
I use the Fastway OneStep chocks. Easy to install and remove. With my boards, I can place them on both sides of the trailer. I used to use and now have for sale a pair of X-Chocks. X-Chocks to me are a pain to install and remove. Also, with the OneSteps, I don’t notice any better stability in the trailer with or without the X-Chocks.
At full hookup sites, I use a Vaultera Sewer Solution. I bought the setup as parts excluding the hose. I bought a ¾” ranch and garden hose from a big box store. I cut the hose into 7’ lengths and connect them with pieces of copper pipe – just friction fit together as needed. I have 40’ of hose, to reach any sewer. I can use it at home to reach over 200 feet! No worries about someone stepping on the hose or it getting hit with a weed whacker… I also have a low price slinky hose for use at dump stations.
For water filtration, I have a pair of common 10” whole house filters with opaque containers. Bought at a big box store along with connecting fittings to hook to hose and trailer. I have a cheap string filter in the first unit and a 0.5 micron anti-biologic filter in the second.
Consider getting a TPMS setup for your trailer tires.
I follow the geo-method. Dawn + Calgon or Borax. Works well for me. Supplies available at any grocery store.
For a quick easy electric checker to use before pulling into a camp site take a look at this video from Mike Sokol. https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-quick-30-amp-outlet-tester/
Best upgrade I've made to my trailer: I dumped the drum brakes and installed electric/hydraulic. Now the trailer seems to help stop the truck. Brakes use auto brake pads available everywhere.
Safe Travels and have fun!
__________________
Al
2017 29' SOB, 2022 Platinum F-150 SCrew, ProPride
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04-07-2020, 07:49 PM
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#23
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Rivet Master
2000 30' Excella
GTA
, Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorSam205
Lots of folks use the Blue Ox with good results. Lots also use others in the same price range with equally good results. Personally, I use a Propride. After reading hundreds of posts, I’ve only seen 1 or 2 who swapped back from a Hensley style hitch, most who swapped from any other hitch seem to say “why didn’t I do this sooner?”. I know one guy who busted his toe with, I think, a Blue Ox, – the WD bar snapped down unexpectedly. Several long threads on this site discussing these hitches. Proride WD bars are permanently installed and can be adjusted with a battery drill/driver. You don’t need a hitch lock with this style hitch – few people have the correct stinger needed to hitch up. They are expensive but I think worth the price.
I currently have a hard wired Progressive EMS. Bought hard wire because I was worried about accidently leaving it at a camp site… FWIW, If I were buying new today, I would buy a Southwire model. Mike Sokol, the RV Electric guy has stated that Southwire has features not available on other brands that make it a bit better unit.
I use some 2x10s for leveling, bought as stair treads from a big box store.
I use the Fastway OneStep chocks. Easy to install and remove. With my boards, I can place them on both sides of the trailer. I used to use and now have for sale a pair of X-Chocks. X-Chocks to me are a pain to install and remove. Also, with the OneSteps, I don’t notice any better stability in the trailer with or without the X-Chocks.
At full hookup sites, I use a Vaultera Sewer Solution. I bought the setup as parts excluding the hose. I bought a ¾” ranch and garden hose from a big box store. I cut the hose into 7’ lengths and connect them with pieces of copper pipe – just friction fit together as needed. I have 40’ of hose, to reach any sewer. I can use it at home to reach over 200 feet! No worries about someone stepping on the hose or it getting hit with a weed whacker… I also have a low price slinky hose for use at dump stations.
For water filtration, I have a pair of common 10” whole house filters with opaque containers. Bought at a big box store along with connecting fittings to hook to hose and trailer. I have a cheap string filter in the first unit and a 0.5 micron anti-biologic filter in the second.
Consider getting a TPMS setup for your trailer tires.
I follow the geo-method. Dawn + Calgon or Borax. Works well for me. Supplies available at any grocery store.
For a quick easy electric checker to use before pulling into a camp site take a look at this video from Mike Sokol. https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-quick-30-amp-outlet-tester/
Best upgrade I've made to my trailer: I dumped the drum brakes and installed electric/hydraulic. Now the trailer seems to help stop the truck. Brakes use auto brake pads available everywhere.
Safe Travels and have fun!
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Hey Sailer.
Can you tell us about your trailer and the Disc brake install
__________________
#4286 Stella the 2000 30ft Excella/Classic - Tow Vehicle - 2020 GMC Denali 1500 Duramax 3.0l Diesel, ProPride3 WDH.
previous tow vehicles 2012 Mercedes Benz GL350d - CanAmRv.ca hitch Reinforcement, 2005 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4L
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04-08-2020, 09:48 AM
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#24
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Rivet Master
South East
, Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultraclassic
Hey Sailer.
Can you tell us about your trailer and the Disc brake install
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I have a Flagstaff 26FKWS. 2 axle unit, 29' long, 7k lbs. Over the first year of ownership I had recurring issues with two of the nev-r-adjust brakes continually over adjusting, if I jacked a wheel off the ground I could not manually spin it. Also, hub temps were regularly elevated on these wheels. I got my brake system from Performance Trailer Braking and had them do the install. I had gotten very good reviews on them from several friends. PTB will come to you to do the install. I had mine done while on a trip We had ordered the system and had to wait a bit for Dexter to produce the hub/rotors. When they became available, we were about ready to leave on a trip, so we were able to schedule the install in a park along the way. Took their installer about 5 hours to complete the work.
In retrospect, I could probably have done the work myself, but am happy to have had a pro do the install. If you are experienced with brake systems, it is definitely a DIY job.
Note that the hub/rotors are specific to various axles, so you will need to have that info - for me, I got the info off the labels on the axle tubes.
System uses Dexter discs and the Titan Brakerite actuator.
System has worked flawlessly since install. Before making the change, I had a couple of whoa Nellie issues when some chucklehead pulled in front of me and decided to stop... With the discs it seems like my stopping distance is the same with or without the trailer. Heavy brake application throws us forward in out seat belts.
PTB was a pleasure to work with. If you decide to go with them, PM me. They have a referral program that will give you a $50 discount.
__________________
Al
2017 29' SOB, 2022 Platinum F-150 SCrew, ProPride
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04-10-2020, 05:26 AM
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#25
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Rivet Master
2000 30' Excella
GTA
, Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 507
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Sailor
Thanks for the info.
Cheers Ultra
__________________
#4286 Stella the 2000 30ft Excella/Classic - Tow Vehicle - 2020 GMC Denali 1500 Duramax 3.0l Diesel, ProPride3 WDH.
previous tow vehicles 2012 Mercedes Benz GL350d - CanAmRv.ca hitch Reinforcement, 2005 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4L
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04-11-2020, 09:18 AM
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#26
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2 Rivet Member
2021 30RB Classic
Lombard
, IL
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultraclassic
Sailor
Thanks for the info.
Cheers Ultra
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Thanks for all the great advice and information everyone.
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04-11-2020, 09:35 AM
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#27
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,225
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Just Joined: Blue Ox Sway Pro Hitch Works
SailorSam205
I am somewhat experienced but thanks for the great advice and information.
I have also converted to disc brakes for my 66 Tradewind and am very happy with them.
Dan
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