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Old 02-05-2017, 05:21 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete B55 View Post
I swapped out the ram extension (that came with the pad welded) using an Atwood 82660 extension pad on my 2017 Classic. It fits like a glove on the ram and is perfect length. With this now my propride can be at any angle and I can get past the sway bars.

I recommend it. $16 bucks on Amazon
How did you get the original one off?
Thanks,
SS
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Old 02-05-2017, 10:27 PM   #22
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If worried get or build your own jack foot. Here is one..
http://shop.redneck-trailer.com/p-83...in-140070.aspx
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Old 02-06-2017, 10:38 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Llando88 View Post
I am looking at that on Amazon, but am having trouble picturing how that helps?

Do you only install it when lowering the jack foot?


SS- yes - here is a picture of it
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:27 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete B55 View Post
SS- yes - here is a picture of itAttachment 279303
Pete,
Thans for the picture. How did you get the old one off? Did it just slide off and you slide the new one on when cranking down the jack? I am confused, I thought the original foot was welded on somehow???
Thanks for your help!
SS
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:30 AM   #25
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Jack Pad

I think some of them are held on the ram with a single bolt up from the bottom. Mine was loose when I got the AS, and I never bothered to look to see what might have held it on.

I just keep it in the TV when I'm not using the jack...
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Old 02-06-2017, 02:39 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by SilverSinbad View Post
Pete,

Thans for the picture. How did you get the old one off? Did it just slide off and you slide the new one on when cranking down the jack? I am confused, I thought the original foot was welded on somehow???

Thanks for your help!

SS


My 2017 Classic had a 12 inch extension with a welded pad that slid inside the ram. All I had to do was hitch up the trailer, pull the extension pin, pull out the old extension, and add the new extension with pad. The main difference is the new part does not pin into the ram and the ram slides into the pad/extension. When you hitch up and retract the ram, the pad/extension disconnects. When you unhitch, extend the ram with the pad/extension on the ground. At no time will it interfere with the propride sway bars, no matter what the angle of the hitch.

The Atwood is very stable on the ram and is rated for 6000#

You may get by with just an Atwood pad (as opposed to this one with an extension) however the travel of the ram may not be sufficient depending on the slope of a site. I think this part is optimum length
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Old 02-06-2017, 03:02 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by SilverSinbad View Post
Pete,

Thans for the picture. How did you get the old one off? Did it just slide off and you slide the new one on when cranking down the jack? I am confused, I thought the original foot was welded on somehow???

Thanks for your help!

SS


Also to help you visualize- the Airstream supplied extension slid snug inside the ram, required to be pinned to one of six lengths, and U need a hammer to remove - too much at every hitchup/hitchoff.

The new part slides outside the ram but loosely- so removal is easy, has stops for a fixed 7" extension, does not require a pin ( but you could add one if you wanted). This is much more flexible and quick when hitching and unhitching. You just need to carry it with you because it wont stay on the trailer like the original did.
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Old 02-06-2017, 03:32 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete B55 View Post
Also to help you visualize- the Airstream supplied extension slid snug inside the ram, required to be pinned to one of six lengths, and U need a hammer to remove - too much at every hitchup/hitchoff.

The new part slides outside the ram but loosely- so removal is easy, has stops for a fixed 7" extension, does not require a pin ( but you could add one if you wanted). This is much more flexible and quick when hitching and unhitching. You just need to carry it with you because it wont stay on the trailer like the original did.
Thanks Pete you have been very helpful! I am interested in the ability to use the pin. I am concerned my storage yard may misplace the foot. So your solution would give me the ability add a pin at the times I felt I needed it (storage or service) and then leave it off at other times? I am assuming it would use the original holes in the Atwood to pin through?

Thanks so much! Picking up our Classic in two weeks and leaving within a day or two, so trying to be prepared to make that change right away.
Best,
SS
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Old 02-06-2017, 05:24 PM   #29
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Before the days of tear cameras, this was even more valuable to make those minor adjustments in hitching. Still helps.

BAL 28100 Tongue Twister Trailer Hitch Alignment Aid
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Old 02-06-2017, 05:55 PM   #30
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I have had the issue you describe and have found that unbolting it with my electric ratchet and a 3/4 inch socket is so easy, fast and convenient that I haven't bothered to find a more elegant solution. It does not occur very often.
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Old 02-08-2017, 11:04 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete B55 View Post
SS- yes - here is a picture of itAttachment 279303


Thanks!
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Old 03-06-2017, 09:12 PM   #32
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I use a Pro Pride with my FC 27. The key is to have your WD jacks totally loose before you unhitch or hitch. In a few instances, I've had to swing the rear of the truck by turning full lock and moving a foot or so to clear. Not a big issue for me, and I've been in many tight spots (National Parks, etc.). As with most things, you get better with practice.
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:16 AM   #33
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I don't think I ever had a jack pad on mine. I have an aluminum "foot" (made by someone in the forums) that I place on the ground and the jack rests on it. It's rare when I can't get the jack through the bars but if I'm really that twisted up I pull forward to straighten out and go back straight. That feels like less work to me than swapping out hitch bars and when I'm camping, work is not allowed

Seriously though, there's no wrong way to do it. If that method works for you, have at it!
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