How does my tow rig set up look folks?

[Niblet]

I have a 2020 Chev Silverado LT 2500HD towing a 27' FB AS
was wondering how my hitch height and coupler look,,,? (Blue OX hitch)
my truck sits high so I had to bring the ball down 1 hole from the previous owners set up (he had a Toyota tundra)

whats your opinions based on this photo?

[McStreamy_]

It appears level to me but I'm far from a professional. Have you measured from the ground to the base of the trailer at the front and rear, then compared those measurements? That's going to be much more accurate than an eyeball check. Also, welcome to the Forum!

[thewarden]

Looks good. Trailer looks nice and level as does your truck. It also looks like you have the right ball angle as your WD bars are in the right spot. If you are parked on level ground, get a carpenters level on the floor in the middle of the trailer. What does that tell you?

When you set up you WD did you do any measurements to see how much weight you are moving to the front axles when hooked up? With your truck you want to get about 50% of the weight the trailer took off your front wheels moved back to the front by way of your WD bars.

[Niblet]

No I didnt do any measuring, quite frankly I just watched the blue ox set up video and just kind of winged it,,,because I was purchasing the AS and just wanted to get it hooked up and get home. Do you know a resource where
I can go to figure out these measurements?
Thanks..I'm a rookie

[McStreamy_]

I have reached out to BlueOx customer service a few times and have found them to be both helpful and knowledgeable. You can email them at info@blueox.com or by phone at 800-228-9289. The owners manual might be of help also https://www.blueox.com/wp-content/up...5002000-11.pdf

[PB_NB]

There is a video on the Equalizer website that shows what to measure and explains how a WDH works to move loads around. You can also go to CanAmRV's website and they have. a bunch of downloads on all sorts of things to look at.

Youtube is helpful as well. You might need to rig up a means of measuring the tongue weight of your trailer using a bathroom scale and some lengths of lumber. There are some tongue scales that can be purchased to make that easier. Sherline is one and I think that can be bought off the etrailer website for example.

Maybe we will see you around the area when the borders open up. We like to spend time at the Fort Casey campground and over in Coupeville!

[ROBERT CROSS]

The camera lens could be contributing...but the rear of the TV looks high and the rear of the AS low.

Make sure the pavement is flat the entire length of the rig and measure.

Bob
🇺🇸

[DoubleR]

On a level spot you should compare the measurement from the ground to a spot on the truck about the middle of the front tire without the trailer hooked up and thetrsiler hooked up with WD fully setup. The measurements should not change much. But taking it to a CAT scale would be the best comparing weights of the steer and drive axles with and without the trailer hooked up. Visuals are great, but the numbers never lie.

[Niblet]

how do I do the CAT scale thing,,I never have before and there is one just down the road from me,,is their a detailed guide? do I weight the TV without the AS first?

[Niblet]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

The camera lens could be contributing...but the rear of the TV looks high and the rear of the AS low.

Make sure the pavement is flat the entire length of the rig and measure.

Bob
🇺🇸

Its not the camera,,you are correct,,,maybe I need to come down another hole on the hitch

[DoubleR]

Originally Posted by Niblet

how do I do the CAT scale thing,,I never have before and there is one just down the road from me,,is their a detailed guide? do I weight the TV without the AS first?

Basically I do the CAT scale weighing on the way to take a trip. Load the truck like normal for a trip and a full tank of gas. Drive the truck only to the CAT scale and stop on the scales with your steer tires On scale #1 and your drive axles on scale #2. Go hookup the trailer with WD setup as normal and reweigh with the steer wheels on scale #1, drive wheels on scale #2, and trailer on scale #3. You can weigh the truck & trailer again with WD not enguaged. You can then determine several things about your truck and trailer. YouTube also has several examples and better detailed descriptions.

[Daquenzer]

I used a level on the inside when parked on a flat place. I also measured. Once you get it set up right then it’s just a matter of doing the same thing every time. If you are going to error you want the front a bit lower to prevent sway. Definitely not the reverse.

[McStreamy_]

There is a CAT Scales app that makes the process much quicker. Download the app, enter your info, drive on the scale, press the weigh now button in the app and you get your weight ticket emailed to you. Saves you having to park and go inside.

[thewarden]

The other thing to remember is that you are towing with a 3/4 ton so, theoretically, you could tow without WD. I would not recommend that but it means that the amount of weight being distributed by your bars is not critical. You just have to make sure that it is not too much.

Just make sure that the trailer is level front to back and if you can not get it exact, a little lower on the front is better than a little lower on the rear. Again, I park on a level surface and use a level inside the trailer for this. There are other ways that work as well including measuring the front and rear of the trailer to the ground. Do what works best for you.

Go to the CAT scales and weigh the truck's front axle and then the rear. Then hook up the trailer without your WD bars and weigh front and rear again. Take note of how much lighter the front axle is and what the difference is between what the front axle was without the trailer and what it is with the trailer and no bars. Now, you want to tension your bars until you return about 50% of that weight back to the front. This will be a bit of trial and error until you get the right tension.

The goal is to make sure you have a level trailer and that when you use the WD you are putting back about 50% of the weight the trailer takes off the front when the weight of the trailer tongue is on the hitch ball without WD bars.

[Atwebs]

That is what we tow with and just about what we tow...we have a 27' GT and our tow is a 2019 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD diesel, with the Blue Ox as well. Looks great and you will have no issues with power.

The suggestion to measure front and back of the trailer is spot on. Ours was set up by a dealer and they took it on a test run just to be sure before we took possession. That's how they tested it. An old trucker showed us how to load the trailer and truck for the best towing results and we've never had any feeling of instability at all.

The other thing that amazes us is the mileage, on a 6,000 mile trip with hills, valleys, and traffic we averaged about 15 mpg! That's better than when we were towing a tent trailer with a full sized gas van.

[Mollysdad]

It looks really, really close.
Maybe the rear of the truck and the front of the trailer are a touch high, so maybe add one link to the chains? Take a little WD out? That's a quick test without disassembling anything.
Drive to a Cat scale and get it weighed.

[tjdonahoe]

Measure the front of frame..and rear...not on a parking lot they are unlevel....use a shop floor or the concrete at a scale house....good show..

[jeffmc306]

Niblet, congratulations on the new Airstream!

I agree with the other poster’s suggestions. Your 2500 will need less weight transfer than a 1500 due to the stronger rear suspension (will drop less).

We have a similar setup - RAM 2500 with a 27’ Globetrotter and Blue Ox. I have two sets of bars, 1000# and 1500#. Our tongue weight is around 1100 lbs.

After experimenting, the 1000 lbs. bars did just fine on a 2200 mile trip to Colorado last week. I’ve got them set with 3 1/2 links showing at the latch. I’m guessing that should be fine for an initial setup. You can fine-tune as necessary. You want the bars to flex which transfers less stress to the trailer.

A couple of tips about the Blue Ox: Never disconnect unless the truck and trailer are straight. Any turning will tension one bar more than the other; that’s how the anti-sway works. Also, lock the hitch on the ball then raise the tongue jack to make it easier to tension / remove the bars.

Happy camping!
Jeff

[gr.austin]

Is your rig ready for camping? Is it full of clothes, food, propane, dishes, water? Is your truck full of traveling stuff, chairs, grill, fishing stuff, Maps, tools (it's an Airstream so you will need lots of tools)? If it is then the ball is 1" to high from my calibrated eye. If it isn't ready for travel, you are very good. Make sure you look at the door sticker for you maximum gross combined towing capacity and your maximum payload. When I am ready to go with my Ford F250 my payload is way short. So much for thous that said a 250 is overkill. You've got a great rig enjoy and be safe. With you 100K investment I would certainly recommend a PPP Hitch. You will immediately feel the difference. If you are a novice trailer puller the extra insurance has saved me a couple of times. Very cheap extra insurance for such an expensive rig. Happy Streaming

[RamRider]

When I moved up from a 1/2 ton to a 3/4 ton truck I needed a longer shank to get my rig level, I think you should do the same as it appears that you are a tad high in front and you want to reduce the risk of dragging the rear of your AS, I also agree that 3 1/2 links showing and 1000# bars are right on for your BluOx. You have a beautiful set up, enjoy.
I purchased a Blu Ox shank, but Curt also makes one that will work, I talked an e-trailer rep before ordering and they told me right that a longer shank is needed for 3/4 ton truck