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Old 08-11-2013, 07:14 PM   #1
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Hitching up the Propride

We recently changed our hitch to a Propride 3. We find that the TV has to be angled at 45 degrees in order for the hitch to engage. We've tried to have the hitch straight on and when the TV tries to connect, the hitch moves to the right. Any words of wisdom on hitching up? We finally get it hitched and connected, but it can be a pain and quite frustrating at times. Thanks
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:35 PM   #2
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The only time mine shifts is if I am at an angle, or the elevation of the trainer doesn't line up with the stinger on the truck. Have you called Sean at ProPride and asked him? He has always provided great support.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:39 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by kswelsh View Post
We recently changed our hitch to a Propride 3. We find that the TV has to be angled at 45 degrees in order for the hitch to engage. We've tried to have the hitch straight on and when the TV tries to connect, the hitch moves to the right. Any words of wisdom on hitching up? We finally get it hitched and connected, but it can be a pain and quite frustrating at times. Thanks
Hi. I'm learning something new about it every time. It's critical when you UNHITCH to ONLY take the weight jacks down to the point where they're loose (can be kicked with your foot). That's the angle you depart and that's the angle you'll come back to hitch. If it moves the head, try adjusting the weight jacks until it moves in to place. A little practice and you'll get it!!
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:09 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post

Hi. I'm learning something new about it every time. It's critical when you UNHITCH to ONLY take the weight jacks down to the point where they're loose (can be kicked with your foot). That's the angle you depart and that's the angle you'll come back to hitch. If it moves the head, try adjusting the weight jacks until it moves in to place. A little practice and you'll get it!!
Do you mean the weight distribution jack when you say "weight jack"?
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:52 PM   #5
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The trick is to have the opening in the hitch head properly lined up with the stinger, especially horizontally. If the jacks are properly loose, the head will rock a bit vertically and the stinger will still go in. Horizontally, if the angle is off very much, the hitch head will cock to the side and entry is impossible without starting again.

My main hookup tool is a 10' piece of heavy (about 3/4") orange rope with a strong magnet on one end and a weight on the other. I stick the magnet below the hitch head opening and align the rope with the angle of the hitch. I use a backup camera stuck to the stinger to keep the black stinger right over the rope as I back in. The same would work with someone directing you. They can advise you when the stinger is in line with the rope.

The rope really works well at night or when the trailer must be hooked up at an angle, such as in some of our state parks with the tight little circular sites.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:23 PM   #6
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The trick is to have the opening in the hitch head properly lined up with the stinger, especially horizontally. If the jacks are properly loose, the head will rock a bit vertically and the stinger will still go in. Horizontally, if the angle is off very much, the hitch head will cock to the side and entry is impossible without starting again.

My main hookup tool is a 10' piece of heavy (about 3/4") orange rope with a strong magnet on one end and a weight on the other. I stick the magnet below the hitch head opening and align the rope with the angle of the hitch. I use a backup camera stuck to the stinger to keep the black stinger right over the rope as I back in. The same would work with someone directing you. They can advise you when the stinger is in line with the rope.

The rope really works well at night or when the trailer must be hooked up at an angle, such as in some of our state parks with the tight little circular sites.
Thanks!
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:37 PM   #7
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So far it's been working well for me just backing into it, but I'm think of trying three of the magnetic hitching rods. (I need one more.)

Two on the ProPride, one in front and one farther back, both aligned with the stinger box. Then one on the back of the stinger itself.

When we back the truck, keeping all three lined up, it should slide right in (if the hitch height is set the same).

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Old 08-12-2013, 04:09 AM   #8
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Do you mean the weight distribution jack when you say "weight jack"?
Yes - imprecise language again - my apologies
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:42 AM   #9
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I cheat with my Hensley. My magnetic camera is mounted right on the stinger shaft, at the drop bar junction looking straight along the stinger and at the hitch box opening as I back up. No doubting height and straightness any longer.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:10 AM   #10
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hitching up

I have a Hensley. My camera is mounted at the top of the license plate. I painted a white stripe on the middle top of the stinger and a matching one on the receiver. Works great for me.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:45 AM   #11
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I'm a bit nervous about hitching up mine at my house - the trailer will sit on flat surface but my truck will come in at a different angle on my yard - Sean told me to loosen the LD bars on approach and make sure that when un hitching to leave the hitch as it lays so that on re hitching the angle is right

However my approach in the yard is a bit weird and not level so I'm a bit concerned about how hard it will be
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:01 PM   #12
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Brilliant!

The two white stripes is a brilliant idea! I just painted them on my 3P and it makes the visibility much, much better for lining up with the camera. Thanks!!!
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:15 PM   #13
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The two white stripes is a brilliant idea! I just painted them on my 3P and it makes the visibility much, much better for lining up with the camera. Thanks!!!
Larry
Sorry to be this dense but exactly where are you painting these stripes, how wide and with what? I just imagine any paint there disappearing after each hookup?? Any photos? Thanks!
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:22 PM   #14
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On top of the stinger and on top of where the stinger enters the hitch, about 1/4 " wide. I taped and spray painted with Krylon white. I do not know why it should strip off as the black paint on the stinger seems OK as long as you get the trailer at the right height.
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:34 PM   #15
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Wow. How about PPILS "ProPride instrument latching system"???

A couple of white "pinstripe" would be easier and neater than any painting I might attempt!
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:37 PM   #16
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I put white electrical tape on top of the stinger pointing front to rear and white tape on top of the 3P hitch opening pointing side to side. I use the hitch mirror that Sean sells. This setup works very well for me. Tape has not come off of either area in about 10,000 miles of towing. I'll see if I can get some pictures to post.
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:46 PM   #17
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I put white electrical tape on top of the stinger pointing front to rear and white tape on top of the 3P hitch opening pointing side to side. I use the hitch mirror that Sean sells. This setup works very well for me. Tape has not come off of either area in about 10,000 miles of towing. I'll see if I can get some pictures to post.
Here a couple of pictures of what I have described.
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:09 PM   #18
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I might be able to do THAT!
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:51 PM   #19
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If it seems logical to assume that a Hensley hookup is similar to a ProPride then - for a foreseeably challenging hookup:

- lining up is everything .....
- longer struts are a lot more forgiving than shorter struts
- stopping the stinger a couple of inches before entry - then lining up the hitch head (up, down, left, right) so it is absolutely dead centre - maybe even slightly low - means a lot.
- a little WD40 on the wedge and end portions of the stinger goes a long way to eliminating any sticking or jamming of the stinger partway into the head.
- stopping again when the stinger has entered the head a couple of inches - and checking to make sure it is exactly centered is very helpful.
- stopping at the first sign of resistance and - if it is needed - then again adjusting the head (almost always up by this point) will allow the hook-up to be completed.

May take a little longer - but it works and saves a lot of frustration .....

On occasion - in really uneven ground - where the TV and trailer form a bit of an obvious "V" - then it may also be helpful to lift the back end of the TV by putting a pair 2X6's under the back wheels of the TV to lift the stinger up.

Rereading this makes it sound kinda onerous - but on uneven ground it works ...... really .....


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Old 08-12-2013, 06:22 PM   #20
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Loks like a lot of non-sense.
Get an Equalizer hitch and get on the road and on with your life.
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