Hensley Arrow users

[s1000pre]

After moving from my F150 to an Expedition, I think I need a different drop in my stinger. I am currently using a 6” drop and considering an 8”.
Currently, the front of my trailer is 1/2 higher than the rear on level ground, and the expedition is squatting more than I want. If I move to an 8”, I’m guessing my trailer front will drop 1-1.5”. How much clearance do you guys have from the lowest point of your WD bars to the ground? I currently have 9”. Worst case would be 7” with the 8” drop.

I’m doing this to decrease drag while towing. I currently feel like I’m pulling a parachute. The vehicle slows while coasting down grades that would have made the f150 pick up speed. I get great mileage similar to the F150 at 45-50ish, anything more my MPG drops like a rock. Same engine, transmission, diff, etc.

[Fungus]

Look into Roadmaster Active Suspension to mitigate the squat. Then measure the trailer with weight distribution engaged. Should be level front to back, or slightly lower in front. RAS is a simple one-hour installation by yourself.

As for the speed, that transmission may be downshifting. Just a guess. Family vehicle vs a pickup. On my Fords I can see the gear the transmission is in.

[s1000pre]

Running on flat ground no incline 9th gear at 65mph about 7.5/8 mpg, The truck was 10-10.5ish.

[WhatNext]

The mileage dropping when above 50 mph seems to be an aerodynamic effect (I get where the OP is coming from). So getting the nose of the trailer down might help but lowering from 1/2 inch high I doubt will have much effect. Easy enough to test, just mount the lower stinger, drive it under the same conditions. But I'm guessing the mileage drop is mostly from the nose of the SUV being high due to the rear squat.

[s1000pre]

Originally Posted by WhatNext

The mileage dropping when above 50 mph seems to be an aerodynamic effect (I get where the OP is coming from). So getting the nose of the trailer down might help but lowering from 1/2 inch high I doubt will have much effect. Easy enough to test, just mount the lower stinger, drive it under the same conditions. But I'm guessing the mileage drop is mostly from the nose of the SUV being high due to the rear squat.

Somehow this post doubled when originally posted, though the photos didn’t transfer.
I hear you with the squat.
Here is my calculated theory???
Let’s call a perfectly level trailer “neutral”.
Lifting the front of the trailer from a neutral position will require more WD than lifting it from a position below neutral (I think) almost like a teeter-totter on the front wheels. ??????
With a 6” drop the front is 1/2” above neutral adding additional squat.
An 8” drop will lower the front 2”, though the same weight distribution will lessen squat, raising the rear of the vehicle and front of trailer.
The front of the trailer will end up a total of 2” lower to the tow vehicle than it is now, which could make up 1-2mpg. Probably only 1” lower to the ground(1/2 below neutral)

Thoughts?????????

[ROBERT CROSS]

Why not just add more WD to lower the front of the TV?

That's how I did ours...no add ons required.
I have my jacks marked for the different loads
I'm not going out to the garage today, (8*F) I think we are also using a 6" drop. Hensley originally recommended an 8".

Bob
🇺🇸
POI...don't be afraid to bend the bars a bit...we use 1000lb bars for a TW of 1200lb. More compliant the lash-up the less strain on the AS.

[s1000pre]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Why not just add more WD to lower the front of the TV?

That's how I did ours...no add ons required.
I have my jacks marked for the different loads
I'm not going out to the garage today, (8*F) I think we are also using a 6" drop. Hensley originally recommended an 8".

Bob
🇺🇸
POI...don't be afraid to bend the bars a bit...we use 1000lb bars for a TW of 1200lb. More compliant the lash-up the less strain on the AS.

I plan on adding a bit more WD. The issue is it will just lift the trailer front more along with the TV. My goal is to drop the front for less frontal area above the TV. I can get rid of a couple inches.

Do you know your clearance from the bend in your WD bars to the ground when hitched and ready?

[WhatNext]

The ideal goal is to have both the trailer and TV level. Level to the eye is good enough (nitpicking aside). Per the OPs pics, more WD needs to be dialed in to reduce the TV squat. That will raise the front of the trailer, so to compensate a stinger that lowers the hitch is needed. No calcs needed.

Although leveling the TV and trailer should help, I am now not convinced the 2 mpg drop is an aerodynamics issue. I recall a back-to-back test on YouTube where they were towing an AS with a pickup, then they installed a cap on the truck bed level with its roof. That is obviously a significant change in aerodynamics. Result: no real difference in gas mileage. (I assume OP's SUV and F150 were running at the same RPM?)

[ROBERT CROSS]

[QUOTE=s1000pre;2658175]I plan on adding a bit more WD. The issue is it will just lift the trailer front more along with the TV. My goal is to drop the front for less frontal area above the TV. I can get rid of a couple inches.

Do you know your clearance from the bend in your WD bars to the ground when hitched and ready?[/QUOTE

I don't, never measured, but whatever it is, clearance has never been a problem. BTW...adding more WD tension lowers the TV front, dropping it for an MPG gain would be moot, most of the drag is between TV & AS.

Originally Posted by WhatNext

The ideal goal is to have both the trailer and TV level. Level to the eye is good enough (nitpicking aside). Per the OPs pics, more WD needs to be dialed in to reduce the TV squat. That will raise the front of the trailer, so to compensate a stinger that lowers the hitch is needed. No calcs needed.

Although leveling the TV and trailer should help, I am now not convinced the 2 mpg drop is an aerodynamics issue. I recall a back-to-back test on YouTube where they were towing an AS with a pickup, then they installed a cap on the truck bed level with its roof. That is obviously a significant change in aerodynamics. Result: no real difference in gas mileage. (I assume OP's SUV and F150 were running at the same RPM?)

POI...towing with the boat on the roof 1-3 MPG gain.

Bob
🇺🇸

[WhatNext]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

POI...towing with the boat on the roof 1-3 MPG gain.

Bob
🇺🇸

Thanks - I see the boat is as high as the trailer roof and it makes a difference. Hopefully the OP posts results showing an improvement with the both the SUV and trailer near level.