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10-06-2011, 01:23 PM
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#21
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Still thinking here...
Looking at kimd8888's graphic and recalling my past experiences with the tail protectors dragging -- the problem is aggravated by the depth of the gutter in relation to the street and the driveway slope.
Any chance of building a couple 4-5' long ramps to bridge across the gutter. Could lessening the dip into the gutter solve the whole problem for you? And how much less gutter depth? 4-5"? You'd need to build the ramps a bit longer the more you want to lift the trailer across the gutter gap.
This may take some woodworking or tools some are not prepared take on. I'd probably make each ramp about 2-3' wide to allow some allowance that not every backup yields the same results.
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10-06-2011, 01:27 PM
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#22
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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It's pretty easy to scribe the gutter contours. See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...pes-29321.html
I'd probably build the ramp with a minimum of 3/4" ply and think of 3 or so longitudinal stringers under each ramp -- along with a few crosswise braces to keep the ply from sagging in between.
[okay, that's 3 posts in a row. I'd think the mods should do something about people inflating their post numbers! ]
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10-06-2011, 01:54 PM
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#23
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2 Rivet Member
1999 19' Bambi
Cape Canaveral
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 56
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Thanks. You may be right. A short ramp over the gutter might work.
It is hard to drive and see the position of the trailer at the same time.
Perhaps a friend might back the trailer up while I try to figure out how much is needed.
I am pretty handy with wood and have all the tool. I was just trying to find a solution that would not involve moving and storing 2 heavy ramps everytime.
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10-06-2011, 02:43 PM
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#24
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2 Rivet Member
1974 Argosy 22
1976 Argosy 28
1972 Argosy 24
Chico
, California
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 52
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I'm trying to imagine this, sounds like a lift of the Bambi a few inches would solve it. Harbor Freight carries some car dollies that might do the trick. It would require you to jack up the bambi to get them in, but you would have the ability to slide it around once it is on them. Maybe pick up a winch to bolt to the back wall of the garage and winch it up sans truck. I would do a test run with my neighbors Babmi first.......
Vehicle Dollies - 2 Piece, 1500 Lb. Capacity
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10-06-2011, 03:08 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,177
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Bridjit Curb Ramps - The No Jar To Your Car Curb Solution
Depending on the slope of the driveway and the gutter style these may help you to get up the driveway without scraping. You don't have to bring them with you or bolt them down. Check it out.
Rich the Viking
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10-06-2011, 03:39 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VIKING
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Interesting. I'm not sure that one would need to go through the bolt together "2-man, 15 minute installation" -- just lay a section down for each track when moving the Bambi in our out. This should allow some compensation for the trailer taking one path and the tow vehicle being on a different one as you back up. A homebuilt version should be easy enough. It remains to be seen if a solution like this would work for kimd8888's 1:10 slope. Would be good to hear about how different solutions work out!
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10-06-2011, 04:19 PM
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#27
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4 Rivet Member
1977 25' Tradewind
Waskesiu Lake
, Saskatchewan
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 394
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A little backyard crane?
__________________
Every home needs a dog, and every dog needs a home.
1977 25' Tradewind (with two ... three... FOUR dogs)
2011 Ram 1500 Quad cab, 5.7 Hemi, tow pkg.
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10-06-2011, 04:54 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,177
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From the looks of the diagram in the initial post it appears that eliminating the dip at the bottom of the driveway would eliminate most of the problem. I've often thought of a hitch design with a built-in jack so you could raise or lower the front of your trailer as you were backing in. Any takers?
Rich the Viking
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10-07-2011, 01:58 PM
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#29
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1 Rivet Member
2006 19' International CCD
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 15
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Well folks the makeshift ramps seem to have worked. Still require some physical effort and slow moving but probably 20 min vs 2 hrs.
Ramps are 2x6s, 2 boards high, 6 boards parallel attached with a bit of a gap between using poly strapping screwed into the sides - kinda like a futon. There's a strap at each end so they can be moved around & we have 4 in total. The end is only one board high for a gentle on & off. The 2 ft width works & they are long enogh to rest on while I move the 2 nd set. It's a workout but workable....
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10-08-2011, 06:29 AM
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#30
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2 Rivet Member
1999 19' Bambi
Cape Canaveral
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 56
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Great! Glad you found a solution. Is there any way you could post or email a pic? I would appreciate it since I am still working on mine.
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10-08-2011, 06:43 AM
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#31
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2 Rivet Member
2007 23' Safari SE
Matawan
, New Jersey
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 46
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Yes! Pictures would be great...if it's not too much trouble. Thanks!
__________________
Claude & Marianne
2007 23' Safari SE Lounge (IdaJune)
'05 Toyota 4Runner LE 4.7 V8 4WD w/ tow package
What if the Hokey Pokey really IS what it's all about?
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10-10-2011, 06:10 PM
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#32
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1 Rivet Member
2006 19' International CCD
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 15
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Will definitely post some pics of the $60 lumber solution - cheaper than the gutter ramps but those would probably have worked too. The trailer dolly was a thought but whether it could handle the steep slope was a concern. Never really had the problem until the new driveway was in (though it was close).
Good luck Luc - keep us posted.
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11-05-2011, 06:09 AM
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#33
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2 Rivet Member
1999 19' Bambi
Cape Canaveral
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 56
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After considering every possible scenario and practicality I called Power Movers and ordered an electric dolly. I hated the expense but was assured that if it didn't work, I would get my money back, minus shipping. It arrived a week later and although I was eager to try it, I felt a little uneasy. My driveway is not very wide and slopes a good bit the last few feet: it drops 22 inches in 22 feet to be exact.
I practiced back and forth on flat surface, used the brakes a few times and finally went for it. Works perfect!!!!! Bambi gets up and down the driveway and no scrapping. I did it several time to be sure. Not the cheapest solution but one of the easiest: The motor does all the work. Damage to the trailer would have been expensive, storage fees would have added up... I recommend it.
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11-06-2011, 09:17 AM
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#34
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1 Rivet Member
2006 19' International CCD
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 15
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Which model Powermover did you buy? Even tho we have the ramps - the mover is still being considered? Maybe we'll call them to discuss since we would need one of their adapters to allow us to raise & lower the trailer as we back in.....
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11-07-2011, 04:37 AM
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#35
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2 Rivet Member
1999 19' Bambi
Cape Canaveral
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 56
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I got the AC10 with brakes. You do need an adapter to fit the frame of the trailer and a longer handle. With 5 wheels there is no traction problem but I do go up and down the driveway at an angle to minimize the grade. I can stop anytime with the brakes. No scrapping! Again, it was not a cheap solution but very practical. Call Brady and mention my dolly. He is now more familiar with a 19' Bambi weight and size. Let me know what you decide.
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11-07-2011, 07:13 AM
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#36
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one of those
2011 27 FB International
'03 F250 PSD
, Airstream summers, Catalac winters
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,091
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I was going to suggest maybe the simplest thing yet, other than going to bigger tires. If you could get by with 1.5" more ground clearance, why not just lay two 2x12's by ten feet long flat right on the driveway in front of the tires? Or is an inch and a half not enough clearance? If you needed more than ten feet, you could buy four 2x12's, 8 ft. long or whatever. Would store easily in your garage rafters or wherever. Really low tech. But cheap.
Heck, if you just ran ONE set of boards down one side, and only had to keep one tire on it, would be even easier and might be enough tilt. You could do that really quickly, if you didn't have to line up two boards to match the wheelbase. Could double two sets of say, six ft. long 2x12's. so you could get three inches of additional clearance on one side, and the two short sections would make them easy to move and to move along a curved path if you needed to. I think I like this one better. tilt the trailer up on one side. Better logistics. cheaper. Less cost.
you only need to raise the trailer precisely at the spots where it is going to hit, right? I bet you know those two spots by heart now.
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09-05-2012, 08:01 PM
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#37
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1 Rivet Member
2006 19' International CCD
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 15
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Sorry this post is so late but here is a photo of our ramps. We have 4 total made from 2x4s with backpack strapping screwed in with washers, leaving a bit of a gap to allow for some movement/curving. We also switch out our travelling hitch fir a straight hitch to get it out of the driveway. It has reduced our time to about 10 minutes. We are still planning on getting a PowerMover but need to reconfirm our measurements.Hope everyone enjoyed their summer.
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