Had It Weighed...Help Please

[dznf0g]

Here's a link to Equal-i-zer shank selections. Again they are interchangeable. I just like their layout with measurements better than the Reese sites. Once we figger out which you need, you can get any brand you want.

Specialty Adjustable Shanks : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

I'm going to take that measurement as soon as I can get on level ground - I've ordered Centramatics and I'm taking it to the tire store to have them put on when they come (tomorrow or Wed.) I'll take the measurement then. Thank you so much for your help!

Where do I buy a new part? 6" drop? (depending on the measurement) - where do you get parts?

I shop price on generic stuff like shanks. If you want one quick, any trailer supply or RV store has them. Typically, if you get into needing really odd stuff (like a 9" drop) you'd have to order them.

I've used Draw tite Trailer Hitches And Hitch Accessories. Drawtite, Reese Trailer Towing Products. before. Low prices and free shipping....on heavy stuff that makes a difference!

Call them if you don't see what you need on the site....it's a little cumbersome.

[palmtreegirl]

I'm on it!

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

?.. I believe you do not need the friction sway control with this setup. I'd remove it. When the cams are set up properly, they will perform the sway control you need, providing the cam surfaces are not excessively worn. ... It appears that after you remove the friction control "ball" on the frame you can move the chain lift ups forward some. Try to get the chains as vertical as you can. Your bottle cover may prevent you from getting the chains exactly vertical, but closer is better.

I agree with dznf0g on this. When correctly set up, you don't need the friction control, it may be counter productive to the operation of the cam system and it appears to be in the way of the proper location for the snap latch.

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

...The hitch has a label that rates it at 10,000 lb trailer weight and the model # is 54980 or 55990 (rubbed off and can't tell) and under the 10,000 lb trailer weight it says 1200 lb but the rest is gone.

This means the hitch (receiver - part that is bolted under the truck) is rated to tow a trailer up to 10,000# and can support a vertical load (tongue weight) up to 1000#. Per the weight numbers you supplied, you are in good shape here. Look at what should be stamped on the top of your ball. I've see 2 5/16" balls rated from 6000# to 30000#. Yours is likely to be rated at 10000# but it's prudent to check. You definitely don't want a 6000# rated ball for your trailer.

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

Sorry about that paragraph - it doesn't make sense to me either and I wrote it!

What I meant was this: the truck and trailer are attached and they are not in a straight line - the truck is pointing to the left as in going around a corner. What I was talking about was that in these two pictures, the part (not sure of the name) is not sitting in the saddle correctly (according to me) and this does not look right (correct) to me.

See my previous post about this. When the truck and trailer are in a straight line, the cam should be centered within the saddle. Any deviation from straight forces the cam up the leading or trailing slope on the saddle, increasing tension on the springs which try to pull the trailer back into line. If you back into a site and come to a stop so the the truck and trailer are not in line, you will see the cams positioned on the high spots on the saddle similar to your photos.

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I don't think this is necessarily true. If I understand PG correctly the 1200 stamp is on the hitch head. This would be a tongue load rating for the head. Since Reese spring bars are interchangeable, any number of lower bar ratings could be in play.

I agree again... My old style Reese had 1000# spring bars, my new one came with 1200# bars. I felt they were too stiff and switched to 800# bars. I believe 600# bars are also available. The rating should be stamped into the bars. My 1200# bars measure just under 1 1/2" where they mate with the trunnions, the 800# bars measure 1".

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

OK, I took a picture of the hitch as it goes into the truck and of the side of the truck (I don't know if that if helpful).

Sometimes photos can be deceiving... Your truck looks remarkably level to me contrary to what I expected to see based on your scale readings. That likely prompted the question about the air bags. It also looks like the PO fabricated a handle and mounted it to the top hole on the drawbar. That could be helpful if you remove and install the drawbar now and then. I also see quick links connecting the safety chains to the hooks. As others have already mentioned, these are a concern if they're inadequate.

Something like this might be a better choice.

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

No, no airbags (air suspention for load leveling) on this vehicle - yes on my Navigator though. Still deciding if I should tow with it......smaller gas tank and burns premimum gas.....cha-ching.

Should you decide you want to tow with the Navigator you need to switch off the automatic leveling feature when you do the hitch adjustments. It is my opinion that once everything is correct you can turn it back on, but others recommend leaving it off when towing. This switch on my '02 Expedition is hidden, it is likely in the same place on the Navigator... Mine is located in the front seat passenger area on the right end of the firewall, more or less behind and to the right of the glove box. I have to reach up there and feel for it. When switched off, an annoying Check Suspension light comes on in the instrument cluster. I believe your Navigator is rated to tow 8300#.

[ROBERT CROSS]

See Liz you are making progress....

Take your umbilical and thread it thru this...

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by YankeeDoodle

Should you decide you want to tow with the Navigator you need to switch off the automatic leveling feature when you do the hitch adjustments. It is my opinion that once everything is correct you can turn it back on, but others recommend leaving it off when towing. This switch on my '02 Expedition is hidden, it is likely in the same place on the Navigator... Mine is located in the front seat passenger area on the right end of the firewall, more or less behind and to the right of the glove box. I have to reach up there and feel for it. When switched off, an annoying Check Suspension light comes on in the instrument cluster. I believe your Navigator is rated to tow 8300#.

Huh...Yankee, you're the first one to agree with me on this! I also believe it should be disabled only during hitch setup and adjustment. Contrary to the older auto level controls, which are basically just automatic air shocks, the newer systems are electronically tied to stability control systems and sway control systems. When disabled during driving, there could be negative impacts on electronically commanded accident avoidance systems during an emergency maneuver.
I've never fought that battle on the forum, as I thought it would lead to a quagmire....

[ROBERT CROSS]

It's the add on bags that usually start the flames, air suspension should not be a concern if set up properly.

Liz...

Get your umbilical cord up off the ground....thread it through your tongue lock pin clip>>>

Have'n fun?

Bob

[overlander64]

Greetings palmtreegirl!

I have read through this thread twice, and have found so many similarities to the problems I had when trying to connect my '64 Overlander to my 1995 Chevrolet pickup with the Z71 Off Road package. Your Dodge pickup appears to have the Dodge version of the Off Road package which makes me wonder if some of the same factors may be present in your setup issues. The following is what I learned after months of fussing with my Z71:

• The Off Road package raised the ride height so much that even the deepest drop Reese drawbar available at the time could only get the coach within 1.75" of level (nose high).
• Further investigation revealed that the Henschen DuraTorque axles on my Overlander were well worn which reduced my hitch height by a little over 3" which only served to complicate an already bad situation.
• Since the shop who was handling my work at the time told me that the axles had just assumed a natural "settled posture" and that there wasn't anything to worry about, I allowed them to custom weld a deeper drop drawbar . . . that got everything level, but the cost was far from reasonable for the custom work.

Since you have two tow vehicles that you are trying to choose between, my suggestion would be to make the decision about which one you most want to travel with . . . then focus your efforts on that vehicle as the hitch head and related equipment will require specific adjustments for each of the two vehicles meaning that it will be more complicated than just transferring the hitch head from one vehicle to the other. I also suspect that the Lincoln will need a heavier weight distribution bar than the Dodge to compensate for the Linclon's more subtle spring characteristics.

After three years of trying to make a tow vehicle with the Off Road package work with my Airstream, I would be reluctant to recommend one so equipped for the following reasons:

• The Off Road package raises the ride height which complicates getting the proper hitch head ball height correct. In addition, this added height can also impact center of gravity and overall stability . . . there was a world of difference in the stability between the Z71 and my K2500 Suburban without the Off Road package.
• The Off Road package also usually adds much stiffer springs and shocks resulting in a stiffer ride, and a stiff ride is something that an Airstream doesn't appreciate . . . with mine, I began to first see popped interior rivets, and then a crack began developing above the entry door.
• With the Off Road package it is impertaive to be certain that the weight distribution bars are rated properly, particularly when towing with the Reese Dual Cam System. With my Overlander (6,200 pounds Gross with 775 pounds on the hitch), I initially had 800 pound weight distribution bars on the Z71 . . . but didn't get satisfactory performance from the hitch until I went down to 600 pound weight distribution bars. See this link for a disucssion of weight distribution bar selection.

I suspect that you may find that setting up your hitch will be less difficult with the Lincoln Navigator. Towing with your Lincoln's level-ride should not pose any problems. Some of my favorite tow vehicles have had factory level ride (Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs) and there is no problem so long as the factory recommendations are followed regarding hitch setup and hitching practices. Your Airstream will likely greatly appreciate the more subtle ride of the Lincoln . . . I know that my Overlander immediately corrected its rivet popping ways once the Z71 was traded for the Suburban.

My suggestion would be to also check the condition of the axles on your coach utilizing the information provided by Andy of Inland RV. If your axles are worn out or nearing that point, you can save yourself a number of problems by attending to any axle problems as that would bring hitch height back to near factory levels and insure a smooth, subtle ride for the coach.

Good luck with your hitch configuration!

Kevin

[dznf0g]

64, I'm with you, but let's not overwhelm PG right now. If we can all teach her (I think) to set up the Dodge, she can set up anything she might need in the future. I also noted the POSSIBLE AS axle issue. From the pics it doesn't look like a ZZ Top low rider, but may be half way there. We do need a trailer level, ground to top of ball socket measurement in order to get the setup right. But facts are facts. We know she needs to set up a Dodge 2500 and possibly a Lincoln. We can work with that.
So many front end issues to deal with before we throw a whole set of variables in there. Right? Wrong?

I, personally, have no less than 4 shanks because of the many tow vehicle combinations I drive. From a 3" rise to a 9" drop, 1/2 ton - 1 ton. Since she presented with the Dodge, let's get her set then she can take the knowledge and GO FORTH!

Fair?

BTW, how are things down there in "Little Egypt?"

[palmtreegirl]

WOW! Thank you everyone!

About the axles: They were replaced in 2009 - EZ Lube Axles and new brakes. New Tires in 2010 and as soon as they come, I'm installing Centramatic Balancers.

Today, I am going to fix the chain links and remove the friction sway bar. Because it is all hooked up and ready to take to the tire store when the Balancers get here I won't be moving the bracket that snaps up the chain unless I get really ambitious. I am also going to proceed with my other project inside the trailer (building a bench and new mini dinette) and look around at what can be moved for weight distribution.

I will report back this evening, at the latest, about what progress I have made and any observations I can report.

Kudos,
Liz

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

WOW! Thank you everyone!

About the axles: They were replaced in 2009 - EZ Lube Axles and new brakes. New Tires in 2010 and as soon as they come, I'm installing Centramatic Balancers.

Today, I am going to fix the chain links and remove the friction sway bar. Because it is all hooked up and ready to take to the tire store when the Balancers get here I won't be moving the bracket that snaps up the chain unless I get really ambitious. I am also going to proceed with my other project inside the trailer (building a bench and new mini dinette) and look around at what can be moved for weight distribution.

I will report back this evening, at the latest, about what progress I have made and any observations I can report.

Kudos,
Liz

Awesome....No worries then! We do need to know, also, the distance from the ground to the top of the tongue ball socket with the trailer sitting level. This will give us the starting height relative to which holes in the shank to attach the hitch head. We'll want to be about an inch higher with the ball height than the socket height.

[Gene]

Liz, you are going about this well. Keep it up and you'll be training everyone else.

Gene

[palmtreegirl]

Hello Experts,

Today I removed the sway bar and the ball bracket.

I tried to replace the chain coupler with brand new stainless steel 3500 lb rated ones - much to my dismay, after I finally got the old one off, I found that the chain link is too small and the new one would not fit through. What to do?

Good news - the Centramatic Balancers came today and I have an appointment for tomorrow morning to put them on and check the balance and tread depth (wear) of the new-in-2010 tires. While the trailer is at the flat tire store, I am going to measure the front and rear of the trailer at the bottom trim to the ground and see how far off it is from level.

Bad news - While removing the dirty velour panel that is to the right on the wall as you enter the camper, I discovered soft floor in one small area, right at the edge of the upright outside wall - would have been under the couch but I moved the couch - about 18" away from all the battery stuff that was under the couch. (curb side under the window) - I could push my screwdriver right in and leave an indent. The PO installed cork flooring right up to/over it - no traffic that close to the wall though. I'm hoping it isn't an issue - don't need another one of those!

Please advise on how to handle the chain coupler not fitting into the safety chain links.

Oh, I also put the cord (and the break-away wire) through the pin that holds the tongue lock down as Bob mentioned.

[slowmover]

Weights on both:
Steer Axle: 3360 lbs
Drive Axle: 4280 lbs
Trailer Axle: 6620 lbs
Gross Weight: 14,260 lbs

Truck Alone Weight:
Steer Axle: 3740 lbs
Drive Axle: 3220 lbs
Gross Weight: 6960 lbs

Trailer Weight (subtract truck alone from 'both weight'): 7300 lbs

In both truck and camper was almost everything we carry.

I tow my 1992 29' Excella with a 2002 Dodge Ram 4x4 2500 Quad Cab (with HD towing package)


Liz, to play the numbers game (and figuring this out is easier than adjusting the hitch), one begins by going to the DODGE Towing Guide and following the menu selections provided in order to find the vehicle manufacturer towing values. From there it is a matter of keeping front axle weight constant (from unhitched to hitched), and that the TW is divided from TV to TT in about a 75:25 ratio.

I made guesses as to engine, transmission, rear axle ratio in order to come up with:

2002 dodge ram 2500/3500 pickup quad cab 2500 SLT, QUAD CAB, 4WD, SWB Bed, Transmission - Four-Speed Automatic, 46RE, Engine - 5.9L Magnum(R) SMPI V8:

With Axle Ratio - 3.55 Axle Ratio [i] You Can Tow 8100 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) [i] = 8800 lbs
Payload [i] = 3071 lbs
Curb Weight [i] = 5729 lbs
Curb Weight Front/Rear = 3299 lbs/3299 lbs
GAWR Front/Rear [i] = 5200 lbs/6084 lbs
Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) [i] = 14000 lbs

By the book it looks as though you are in range of the numbers published.

With "correct" WDH adjustment, the Steer Axle weight will return to the loaded but unhitched height and weight, and the balance of the remaining trailer tongue weight will be split approximately 75-25 from Rear Axle to Trailer axle.

That 380-lbs on the Steer Axle is what all the fuss is ever about.

.

[dznf0g]

Well, I guess you have 2 choices...replace the chains with a larger link chain...or, do you recall what the rating was on the next smaller diameter coupler was? I don't know what rating is required (or if there is a requirement) but I gotta believe if a 7600 pound trailer became disconnected that the pulling force of locked brakes and tongue on the ground couldn't be more than 5000#, could it? What say all of you?