Going from parked 20+ years to a 700 mile road trip

[TuffSnuffy]

I'm closing in on getting a 1966 Overlander Land Yacht. I've been chasing this for close to 20 years. It is up on a mountain side in the Rockies and I will have to go and get it. From what I understand it has been up on blocks to unload the tires with the outboard ends supported as well. I'm making a list of what I know I'll have to change out to make a 700 mile road trip to get it home, but am wondering on how to check a few items to make sure i don't do any harm getting it home. I'll start with what I feel must be done then what I think needs done and see if you can fill in anything I've missed.

1. New tires
2. Check / replace shocks
3. Check axles (I really don't think Axles are something I'll have on hand for just in case) but if they're shot I'll want to know and make decision from there.
4. Replace wheel bearings and seals (yes I know to pack with grease)
5. check and repair brakes & wiring (make sure they're not dragging at the least)
6. Check / repair trailer light wiring.
7. Check & secure all doors vents entry step and windows for safe traveling on the road
8. Do bumper check for floor separation. (How much is to much for trip home?)
9. Check for floor rot in bathroom, under windows, vent areas and by door. (Any other places to look?) and how much is to much for one road trip?
10. Frame rust / rot, any problem areas to check and how do I access them? I know about how to look for the tell tail signs but short of drilling out rivets and dropping skins I don't know about getting eyes on. Flashlights and inspection mirrors? borescope camera?

[BikeCamper]

New Trailer Battery(ies.) Necessary to operate the emergency brakes.

Consider having it hauled on a flatbed instead. Get it home safely and make repairs under less stressful circumstances.

[xpcdoojk]

Originally Posted by BikeCamper

New Trailer Battery(ies.) Necessary to operate the emergency brakes.

Consider having it hauled on a flatbed instead. Get it home safely and make repairs under less stressful circumstances.

Agree with the second part. Haul it on a truck, then figure it out after. I can’t imagine trying to get that thing 700 miles from 20 years of sitting.

JC

[coloradoup]

I think you have a good list already, Dont worry about the axels. Dont worry about the the floor sepperation. I doubt that the frame is so rusted that it would be a problem. Tires, bearings, lights, brakes, make sure windows and door are taped if needed. Verify that you have the correct ball size for the hitch. Drive home. Sticking it on a trailer is serious overkill. Good luck. I towed both my trailers from Colorado up in the mountains through snow storms to the eastern side of Kansas. 0 problems. No trailer brakes. I do drive a one ton diesel 4x4 Ford E 350 van though.

[BradB]

Agree with the last post, you could flat bed it but lots of people do things like this with proper preparation.

I think your list is good. You can likely just feel the wheels along the way to see if something is getting warm but I might suggest bringing an infrared thermometer to check anyway.

When I picked up my latest 34’ it was a 250 mile trip, I bought it from an estate and they were sure the bearings had been done recently so I felt it was a reasonable risk in my case to try it. I repacked them myself as soon as I got home so I knew what state everything was in. There’s a risk that once you get into it that you might have a bad bearing or something may not be a standard size for whatever reason which could mess things up unless there is a source for parts nearby. I’d try to have spares for all of those things if I could manage it.

[gamakai]

I would tow it but not without fresh tires, repacked wheel bearings and new brakes. Unless you have the knowledge AND a proper workspace, I would find a good local garage and tour the area while the work was completed.

[Bubba L]

Where in the Rockies do you have to pick it up? I just got back from Co.

[PA BAMBI II]

Originally Posted by coloradoup

I think you have a good list already. Don't worry about the axles. Don't worry about the the floor separation. I doubt that the frame is so rusted that it would be a problem. Tires, bearings, lights, brakes, make sure windows and door are taped if needed. Verify that you have the correct ball size for the hitch. Drive home. Sticking it on a trailer is serious overkill.

I totally agree with the above. I have rescued many travel trailers and the recovery missions are always unpredictable. With proper planning, you can get it home safely.

I did trailer my '64 Bambi II home from New Jersey to PA. It had obvious frame rot where the tongue protruded from the bellypan. I didn't feel safe towing it on its own wheels. But it is a small trailer. I was able to rent a deck-over equipment trailer and did not need to hire a company. It was also just a one-day adventure.

The '61 TradeWind was a different kind of adventure. The front frame was solid; the rear was rotted. It sat on its original axle, old tires (it had been sitting since the 1980s), had floor rot in all the usual places, questionable wiring to the running/marker lights, and barely-there safety chains. Knowing all this we decided we were going to go and tow this one home!

I convinced the previous owner to get new tires installed (he didn't see why I was so concerned about this?!?!?). He also checked the bearings and packed them well. But that was it. We towed it home on new tires, original axle, no brakes, temporary towing lights (I wasn't going to plug this thing in and risk shorting out my tow vehicle's electricals), and the rusty, inadequate, sketchy safety chains.

Our trip home was 286 miles; less than your 700. However, if you take it slow, and stop regularly to check your tow and equipment, I have faith you'll make it. We kept a big safety cushion around us, drove sensibly and followed posted speed limits...even going under if needed...and stopped regularly to check things. We made it home fine and had lots of stories to tell!

[GWBell]

I agree with BikeCamper….load it on a trailer and bring it home

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Guessing is fine. The guesses all *may* be correct. You only will know *after* you get to the trailer.

If your schedule forces you to "hit the road in 3 days", that's probably not a great idea. It would be more likely to work with the "put it on the truck" option. Even there, I can think of a really long list of "surprises" that could stop you dead.

20 years out in the middle of nowhere (I assume mostly with nobody around) is a really long time. That's on top of it being nearly 60 years old to start with. How many owners in that time? How did they each care for it? Just how well was it "set up" 20 years ago? Lots and lots of unknowns. No, that's not the same as lots of problems.

Alternate plan:

A 700 mile drive isn't that big a deal . ( we used to live in Kansas and drive back and forth to Colorado ....).

Head over, do the basics, get it down off the mountain. Go slow and be very careful.

Find someplace you can let it sit / work on it over there. Spend a week or three. Poke into this, look into that. If there are surprises, head home and get parts headed your way. If not, hook up and head home.

Heading home towing, you will need a proper WD/AS hitch and the shank setup to go with it. You also will need the adapters to go between "modern" wiring and what's on the trailer. You have a *lot* of driving to do. Unless you are doing a stationary "tiny house" you will need this stuff to use the trailer. Might as well get it now.

Typically folks don't run much over 5 hours a day towing. They also don't average 70 MHP while towing. You likely have a 3 day "road trip" towing the trailer back home.

Bob

[Minno]

We towed a '72 31 ft home from Mississippi (- 1000 miles or so) on 2 new tires on back axle, older passenger tires on front, extensive rear end rot, external trailer lights taped to the bumper with gorilla tape (really really well), door and all external storage areas taped shut with gorilla tape. We went slow ( 55 mph), carefully, and made it just fine. Axles were shot, but trailer rode well, and we had no major issues. Come prepared, and take your time.



Kay

[MrStreamer]

Originally Posted by TuffSnuffy

I'm closing in on getting a 1966 Overlander Land Yacht. I've been chasing this for close to 20 years. It is up on a mountain side in the Rockies and I will have to go and get it. From what I understand it has been up on blocks to unload the tires with the outboard ends supported as well. I'm making a list of what I know I'll have to change out to make a 700 mile road trip to get it home, but am wondering on how to check a few items to make sure i don't do any harm getting it home. I'll start with what I feel must be done then what I think needs done and see if you can fill in anything I've missed.

1. New tires
2. Check / replace shocks
3. Check axles (I really don't think Axles are something I'll have on hand for just in case) but if they're shot I'll want to know and make decision from there.
4. Replace wheel bearings and seals (yes I know to pack with grease)
5. check and repair brakes & wiring (make sure they're not dragging at the least)
6. Check / repair trailer light wiring.
7. Check & secure all doors vents entry step and windows for safe traveling on the road
8. Do bumper check for floor separation. (How much is to much for trip home?)
9. Check for floor rot in bathroom, under windows, vent areas and by door. (Any other places to look?) and how much is to much for one road trip?
10. Frame rust / rot, any problem areas to check and how do I access them? I know about how to look for the tell tail signs but short of drilling out rivets and dropping skins I don't know about getting eyes on. Flashlights and inspection mirrors? borescope camera?

I agree with the majority comments to have it moved with a flat bed transportation company. I had a on the road breakdown years ago, 2010 Explorer V8 TV with 1973 Land Yacht 31' blew transmission. Had 100 mile roadside protection, and still cost $900 to move TV and trailer total 240 miles. Don't risk it!!

[Life is a Highway]

Do not just hope in that and drive for your safety and others on the road

It will need a safety inspection of the frame and suspension then if that passes
All fluids changed and the engine checked over belts hoses etc

Originally Posted by BikeCamper

New Trailer Battery(ies.) Necessary to operate the emergency brakes.

Consider having it hauled on a flatbed instead. Get it home safely and make repairs under less stressful circumstances.

[SlowPokePete]

Originally Posted by Life is a Highway

Do not just hope in that and drive for your safety and others on the road

Yes, please consider your own safety as well as other motorists.

SPP

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Ok, I have a boat trailer over in storage. It's been off the road for 20 years. Title? .... hmmm .... registration? .... hmmm .... out of state plates expired long ago.

I very much would not hook that up behind a truck and try to "sneak" it 700 miles to a new destination. It would need plates and that feeds into all that other nonsense. How long it takes to sort all the nonsense out .... who knows.

What are the licensing requirements in Colorado? I have absolutely no idea. How well do they deal with stuff made *before* the current vehicle numbering system came out? I also have absolutely no idea. Are the number plates even still on the trailer? Who knows ...

Here in PA you have the "fun" of a safety inspection every year on something this size. On the smaller stuff ... not so much. To get plates on any size, you run over for a "official check" on the trailer numbers as well.

I think I'd put "check into this nonsense" on the to do list if it's not there already. It also is yet one more advantage of that flat bed truck.

One random note: If you fry the transmission on your van heading back to Kansas: Do it once you get over the top of Vail Pass. You can pretty much roll the whole way into Denver from there. Been there / done that.

Is the flat bed truck the *only* way to do this? Certainly not. You can indeed get this trailer up to "tow on the road" condition. Once that's done, it most certainly is safe and practical to tow it back to Kansas. The *only* point is that there are a lot of unknowns associated with doing that.

Fun

Bob

[JJTX]

Dont tow it. Hire transport.

[crispyboy]

You have a good list.
Take pop rivets and a drill in case the belly pan gets loose. You want to pop the front section loose to inspect the a-frame area.
Hydraulic jack, blocks, foil tape,…. Consider a way to add some tail lights if the originals don’t work. 2” ball
New tires, grease the wheel bearings and get down the road.

[Bill M.]

""Going from parked 20+ years to a 700 mile road trip"

Did that about 10 years ago. Found a local tire shop to replace tires and check bearings and brakes on site. Actually the seller found the shop for us since she had lived there for a long time. Had to rewire the umbilical cord for a modern 7 pin connection. Did not know that ahead of time. 9 pin to 7 pin conversion. Fortunately had a manual to go by. That cost us one more night than I expected to spend. Rented a site at the same resort and could pull it the half mile without public streets and wiring. New batteries for the trailer brakes. Gonna need tires and batteries anyway. Do a check for A frame rust. An icepick in bad looking areas works. We were on a short time frame to have it off site so the outside help was good. Already had a similar trailer so our WD hitch setup was dialed in okay. Every thing went well.

[farafield]

Floor rot could be anywhere and everywhere. Might be worth it to pull up whatever flooring and check.

[TuffSnuffy]

Thank you for the input so far. I do feel that some have replied to the title without reading the post. I have no intention of moving the trailer a foot until I know it's road worthy. My list is what I plan to do before it's put back on the road. It's not sitting abandoned in a field, it is in a dry climate being used as a guest house on the property. The main thing that draws me to this trailer is it is owned by a family member and is 95% plus original and I plan to keep it that way so I have no intentions of gutting and remodeling it, if it needed that kind of repairs I would pass it on to someone else.