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09-30-2021, 10:58 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
2002 25' Classic
Kalama
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 189
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Equalizing bar adjustment needed?
Flat ground, regardless of TV/trailer load placement, the right bar always requires more lift tension to install - although both sides are set the same. Better to keep both sides set the same, or make both sides install with the same tension? Both trailer and TV are level fore and aft. Any thoughts here?
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10-01-2021, 04:07 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2024 23' International
South of Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 682
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If the L brackets show about the same wear, I wouldnt be concerned.
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10-01-2021, 12:49 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
2002 25' Classic
Kalama
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 189
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Actually, I replaced the right side because it bent a little. So I think you've suggested a corrective action. Thanks, JJTX.
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10-01-2021, 02:53 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2013 27' FB International
El Dorado Hills
, California
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,023
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Try swapping the sides the bars are now on. Take the bar currently on the right side and put it on the left side. The labels will be upside down, but that doesn't matter.
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10-01-2021, 03:10 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Tampa
, Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 7,654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwclassic
Flat ground, regardless of TV/trailer load placement, the right bar always requires more lift tension to install - although both sides are set the same. Better to keep both sides set the same, or make both sides install with the same tension? Both trailer and TV are level fore and aft. Any thoughts here?
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Mine does the same, and it's baffling. Actually, mine changes sides randomly.
I assume you're noticing this because you've attached the coupler and raised the tongue jack to lighten the load on the bars for latching them on.
Once the trailer's hooked up, there's a lot of pressure on those surfaces.
My only idea is that the truck and trailer might not be perfectly aligned when hooking up, throwing the bars off.
Looking closer at your picture I have two observations. If that's grease on the "L" brackets, get rid of it, the friction is your anti-sway. There are "Bracket Jackets" that look like brake pad material and reduce the wear on the "L" bracket.
Then there's a new version of the upside down "L"s that capture the bars. Instead of a cotter pin, they use a captive spring making use so much easier.
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10-01-2021, 03:20 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
2002 25' Classic
Kalama
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 189
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Can't go a day w/o learning something
Aha! I decided to lower that right side bar, since I could not imagine a good reason for the bars to take an uneven load (the bent bracket should've made me curious enough to snoop when I replaced it). Well.........., looking further for that reason, I found it beneath the LEFT side mounting hardware: Beneath the A frame there is a copper gas line. The bracket was mounted below it with space to avoid touching it. The original installer merely counted the adjustment holes on each side. I did the same when I replaced the right side. With the sides unevenly mounted, the only way to even them is to use different adjustment holes. Problem solved! Thanks for the thoughts that pushed me to take a closer look .
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10-01-2021, 04:19 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Tampa
, Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 7,654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwclassic
Aha! I decided to lower that right side bar, since I could not imagine a good reason for the bars to take an uneven load (the bent bracket should've made me curious enough to snoop when I replaced it). Well.........., looking further for that reason, I found it beneath the LEFT side mounting hardware: Beneath the A frame there is a copper gas line. The bracket was mounted below it with space to avoid touching it. The original installer merely counted the adjustment holes on each side. I did the same when I replaced the right side. With the sides unevenly mounted, the only way to even them is to use different adjustment holes. Problem solved! Thanks for the thoughts that pushed me to take a closer look .
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Good catch, since that gas line could be damaged by the bolts.
With all due respect, though, it doesn't create this issue. The "L" brackets have a bolt on top and bottom. The one on top determines how low the bracket can go. (It is wise to put the bottom bolt BETWEEN the frame and the gas line, with a spacer for the gas line)
Here's an old thread about the gas line issue:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f23...on-204999.html
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10-01-2021, 06:18 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
2002 25' Classic
Kalama
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 189
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Good thoughts, Mollysdad. I’ll check into the parts you shared. Re the mounting position; w/o obstruction, the mounting bolts lay close to the A frame (as on my right side). Vertical adjustment is the job of the holes in the L bracket. My thought is that if the bracket were to move, it would go down, never up. So I like it as is. Of equal, maybe greater importance, it has not moved in 20 years. No need to tempt fate, when I can select a different hole to even the load. Re sway control, we’ve been tested every which way - never any sway. A concern I would have w/o grease, hot twisty road in fire season (almost always now) risks sparks, like dragging chains. Not likely perhaps, but if no added antisway force is needed, as is seems prudent.
Appreciate the comments.
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10-02-2021, 12:17 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville
, New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,164
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It would be a good idea to take those stainless pieces off the tongue to check for rust under them, they can trap moister. AS never intended for them to be left in place, they were only supposed to be there for when the transporter delivered the trailer to dealer so their W/D hitch didn't scratch the a-frame.
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10-02-2021, 12:39 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
I'm In
, Kentucky
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwclassic
Good thoughts, Mollysdad. I’ll check into the parts you shared.
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Definitely get rid of the grease and use the bracket jackets instead. They're available on Amazon too.
https://www.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer-S...dp/B08B2LH5F8/
The Snap L-Pin 90-03-9230 you'll probably have to order from Equalizer.
Both are excellent products and you'll appreciate the ease of use on the L-Pins and no grease on the L-Brackets.
__________________
-Rich
Rich & Yvonne
2006 Safari SE -Dora-
2004 4Runner SE 4.7L V8
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10-02-2021, 04:11 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,591
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Seems the as install instructions has a se tion re the L brackets and the gas line. I agree that the bolt goes between the frame and the gas line which on was slightly re-routed/lowered to make room for the bolt.
Edit...your install bars are a different style/vintage...fwiw re my comments. Attached a pic of my gas line & bolt setup with a garden hose sleeve.
Btw, i keep a coarse foam sanding block that i use the "touch up" the equ pads shdn they start to creak.
__________________
WashMoBob
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