Equal-i-zer & Shank for 2017 F250

[MWBishop]

Looking to get Equal-I-zer for 2017 F250 for 26U.
From reading other posts it appears the 12000/1200 is the proper hitch.
But now I need help to get the correct chank for my TV.
Plugging these values into the Equal-i-zer shank calculator:
Height of Hitch Ball:
3"
Ground to Inside Top of Receiver:
23" (2017 F250, 2 1/2 Hitch, 20" Tires)
Coupler Height above ground with trailer parallel to ground:
17.75" (from the 2017 AS Flying Cloud Owners Manual)
Receiver Size:
2.5" (but do have a 2.5" to 2" adapter)
Suggested Shank:
Given your inputs, we were unable to determine the right shank for you.

Well, that's just great! So I tried 2":

Receiver Size:
2"
Suggested Shank:
90-02-4400 (12" long x 9" max drop or 13" max rise)

Wow! 9" Drop? Is this correct?

So I have to ask.
For you guys with a Equalizer/TV similar setup, what did YOU use)?
And please don't say "Pro-Pride"

[ATownTX]

I think it is just suggesting you buy the shank with the 9" max drop. In my case, I was able to use the stock shank(max 3" drop?) and I had to use it all to get to an unloaded height of 19" to the top of the ball. I have a chevy Colorado z71 4x4 and the trailer was fairly level after hitching. With your truck you may not get as much deflection in the rear end as I do when applying the trailer load, so you may need to set yours at 18" or some such to the top of the ball before coupling. So if your truck is as high as I'm imagining, you may well need the 9" shank but that doesn't mean you will need all 9".

[Mollysdad]

I'll be curious to see what you settle with.
I too, am getting the 26U and look forward to learning more.

So I went to the same chart and plugged in my measurement.
(Toyota Tundra) 17.5" at rest empty.

Based on your inputs, it looks like the 90-02-4100 is the shank for you. Mount the head in the fourth hole from the top as shown above.

This is the standard shank. It is included with hitch models 90-00-0600, 90-00-1000, 90-00-1200, and 90-00-1400.

I guess you got the large drop because your receiver is 5.5" higher than mine and mine is already in the bottom holes.

I'm curious to inquire why you decided to go with the 12000 Equilizer since the GVWR of the 26 is 7600 and the hitch weight is 903?
I have the 10000 although I don't have the trailer yet so I may be full of beans.

[MWBishop]

Well, I've read other posts that the actual camping weight of the 26U (LP, Batteries, etc) is over 1000lbs. So I too have to wonder which is the best choice, the 10000/1000 or the 12000/1200? Decided to go with Equalizer because that's what the dealership said they'd mount for free - I have to hope they will get the set up correct since this is what they recommend. So if I show up with a ProPride or something else and they install it incorrectly then I'd be better off just dropping the AS on the ball, driving home, then installing the hitch myself. But seems a lot of AS'ers user Equalizer (and ProPride).

[MIFC]

When I traded our Tundra for a GMC 2500 I wanted to switch to the 2.5" shank to avoid the "slop" I get when using the 2" adapter.

I ordered this shank from etrailer -

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...0-02-4900.html

Not sure of the relative height of the hitch '17 F250 to the '16 GMC 2500, but this works well for me.

Good luck shopping!

[MWBishop]

Originally Posted by MIFC

When I traded our Tundra for a GMC 2500 I wanted to switch to the 2.5" shank to avoid the "slop" I get when using the 2" adapter.

I ordered this shank from etrailer -

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...0-02-4900.html

Not sure of the relative height of the hitch '17 F250 to the '16 GMC 2500, but this works well for me.

Good luck shopping!

Yep, that's the exact shank with the 6" drop I'd like to use if the 6" drop is enough. This is exactly the type info I am looking for - what other's are successfully using.
Do you know the distance from top of your receiver to the ground on your 2500?

[MIFC]

Distance from ground to top of the receiver (very top, not inner) is 23 3/4 inches from the ground.

I am using the lowest setting on that shank, but it gets my hitch ball to about 20", which is a good match for the trailer sitting level, slightly biased towards the tongue.

BTW, if you think that hitch with the 2" shank is heavy . . .

[MWBishop]

MIFC,

Thank you so very much for providing these measurements.
Your rig is a hair taller, so this shank should work nicely for me as well.
This is the exact shank I was hoping to be able to use for the F250.
So now I just need to make final decision on 12000/1200 or 10000/1000.
But that will be much easier...

[MWBishop]

Well, actually I'll likely just get the 14000/1400 Equalizer (with that shank).
Another 26U owner stated that with full LP and Batts his 26U weighs 1150#.
So adding more stuff (gear, water, etc) it'll break through 1200# at some point.
Equalizer states should never exceed tongue capacity, but bigger is ok.
Since looks like 14000/1400 is maybe the correct choice.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by MWBishop

Well, actually I'll likely just get the 14000/1400 Equalizer (with that shank).
Another 26U owner stated that with full LP and Batts his 26U weighs 1150#.
...looks like 14000/1400 is maybe the correct choice.

Okay. In theory, Airstream weighs the tongue with batteries and full propane. I'd venture the person claiming 1150 had loaded his gear near the front. It's tempting, because the door is right there, and the under dinette storage is so far to the front. I'm not sure where the water tank is located, but it's not 100% on the tongue, and I travel with just enough water to do dishes and a few showers. I don't want to drag water up and down mountains. Airstream's calculation of 903 pounds on a trailer with a base weight (Propane & batteries) of 5973 is already 15+%, probably just right. At GVWR it's still 12%.
Since I already have the hitch, I'm going to try it. I'm also installing it myself, because I like to understand how things work, it's not rocket surgery, and I understand the relationship of the washers to weight transfer. The bars are supposed to bend, after all, and lifting the 1000# bar is impressive in itself.
I suspect we'll both be fine.
As I drive the interstates here in Florida where there's a lot of recreational vehicles, I see boats, car haulers, horse trailers, Hi/Lo's, popup's, U-Hauls, and none have anti-sway hitches.
I think it's good to be safe, but perhaps many AS owners sharpen their pencils a bit too much in the quest of perfection.
I think my Yugo will pull that Classic 33 just fine.

[SCOTTinNJ]

Not sure if this will help the OP or not, but I had a 2014 25' FC with 600/6000 bars for my F-150 per dealer's suggestion. I thought it towed fine but I suspected it could be better. I did have some sway.

Then I moved to a 2014 30' FC and called Equalizer for a suggestion. They moved me to a 1,000/10,000 hitch and I can say the 30' tows much better than the 25' ever did.

I would think 1,000/10,000 would be what you want for the 26'. Particularly since you have a higher rated truck as well.

[hhendrix]

I'd be very careful about the 1200lb bars on a 3/4 ton truck. When I bought my first WD system, I really didn't know that much about them even after many years of towing.
I had a 3/4 ton Ford 4WD towing a 27' FB Flying Cloud. I went to a trailer dealer and he sold me the 1200lb bars that came with the system. It was way too much for the trailer and the stiff suspension of the truck. It actually caused stress cracks in both of the lower corners of the front outside compartment. Also had many instances of doors and cabinets opening while towing.
I read many comments here but Andy, a commercial member, and a few others commented on stiff truck suspensions and bars that are too strong for the trailer to survive.
Fortunately for me, the dealer allowed me to trade for lower rated bars and towing is much easier on the trailer while still towing well with my truck.

[gecko]

I second the notion to not overdo the Equalizr bars.

We are very happy with our Equalizr and used it on our 2000 3/4 ton Suburban and currently use it in our 1 ton Sprinter to tow our 28' 2009 International Ocean Breeze. It is a very comfortable package, but since we switched up to 16" Sendels and XPS ribs with Centramatics and have been running them from initial 78 psi to current 63 psi, instead of the 65 psi on GYM's, we have noticed significantly more trailer rattling--we now pop 2-5 rivets on a long trip, instead ofof zero-1 rivet. Hopefully the recent shift to 73 psi will alleviate this, but I certainly wouldn't want to go above 1000 lb bars.

Our coach is 6100 dry and 6980 loaded with 1/4 tank of fresh and full propane. The tongue weight is 1200-we have 400 amps of AGM's in four forward batteries, and the 28's start with the highest tongue weight anyway. We carry nothing heavy in our forward under gaucho storage.

I think the 1000 lb bars will be plenty fir you.

[graysailor]

Contact equalizer. They do have a 2 1/2" shank. Not a good idea to use an adapter as they can slip and can cause the shank to get stuck in the receiver.

[CarolynSteve]

I bought our AS slightly used and the hitch was included.
The User /Owner Manual is superb. It is on-line.

There is a ton of info and diagrams.

I also called the manufacturer and got some excellent input and info. They are very helpful.

Even with all of that, I brought my AS for an unrelated work to a large RV dealer service department and had them at my setup. It was a well spent 30 minute labor charge as they made some small changes and torque checked everything. A well spent few bucks that made the set-up even better. Perfect.

Considering we are towing a valuable trailer with an expensive tow vehicle our possessions and ourselves this was a very small investment for safety and a relaxed frame of mind.

I have a well stocked and well used tool box. This set-up required some experience and knowledge.

BTW, they added one more washer for the ball tilt. The tweek made the difference. Made a big difference. Go figure.

[MWBishop]

Thanks for the recommendations everyone.
I am aware of Andy's posts even though in direct conflict with Equalizer.
But it does seems logical that HD trucks would need less.
Therefore sounds like the 10000/1000 might be most proper for F250/26U.
Sure would be a lot easier to just drop on ball and go like I did with boat.

[cabinetmaker]

My Ram 3500 SRW 4x4 Megacab Cummins doesn't drop but maybe 1" with my 26U fully loaded just using the ball.

Why are you guys wanting to use a weight distribution hitch? You don't need to transfer hitch weight to the front of a heavy duty truck 3/4 or 1 ton. You also don't need to transfer weight back to the trailer axles. Plus your putting undo strain on the airstream frame.

Maybe use a sway bar if you feel the need but these hitches are made for light weight tow vehicles not heavy duty. All you doing is adding more weight with this hitch setup.

I tow on the ball with no sag or sway what so ever. My 26U rides smoothly behind us and we don't have rivets popping or anything moving inside.

[MWBishop]

But that's on a Ram 3500.
Don't they have a stiffer rear suspension than F250 (I don't know)?
If F250 only drops 1" or so I'd happily just drop on the ball.
But another post stated his F250 dropped well over 2".
Is that still ok?
Maybe when I pick up 26U just drop on a ball and see what happens.
Then if I do not need the WDH hopefully can just return it.
But if I show up without WDH and need one, then I'm hosed.

[MWBishop]

Follow-up.
Salesman from dealership contacted AS with respect to WDH for 26U.
And AS actually does recommend the 10000/1000 size for Equalizer.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by MWBishop

... with respect to WDH for 26U.
And AS actually does recommend the 10000/1000 size for Equalizer.

Great to hear! Especially since I already have mine.
I gave the bars a fresh coat of paint, my goodness, they are heavy!
I can't imagine them bending, but I guess they do.
I bought one of those gadgets for carrying the head, it looks like an orange handle with a "C" shape that hooks the ball. I'll say it doesn't work unless the head is upright. I was terrified of dropping it on my foot!