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Old 06-30-2023, 08:50 AM   #1
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2019 25' Flying Cloud
Brooklyn , New York
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 35
Enough Weight Distribution?

Went to a scale today for the first time and Im curious if others think Im using enough weight distribution. Im using a ProPride and RAM 2500 diesel to tow a 25 FBT. I only raise the jacks 2.5 due to some fear of front end separation, and I think everything handles fine (maybe a touch of proposing on bumpy roads). I also weighed everything with the jacks at 4 to get a comparison.

Here are the results:


Truck Only
Drive: 5000
Steer: 3340
Gross: 8340

0
Drive: 4460
Steer: 5020
Trailer: 5480
Gross: 14960

2.5
Drive: 4580
Steer: 4860
Trailer: 5540
Gross: 14980

4"
Drive: 4680
Steer: 4720
Trailer: 5560
Gross: 14960
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Old 06-30-2023, 10:42 AM   #2
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Wasilla , Alaska
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label question

Is it possible your "Drive" and Steer" are reversed? I would not expect the steer axle to increase with the trailer hitched...
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Old 06-30-2023, 11:05 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjshier View Post
Is it possible your "Drive" and Steer" are reversed? I would not expect the steer axle to increase with the trailer hitched...
He definitely has swapped the drive and steer data.

To the original OP, once you hook up your trailer, the tongue weight of the trailer causes the drive axle load to increase and the steer axle load to decrease.

Applying WD tension reduces the load on the drive axle and increases the load on the steer axle by increments as you add more tension to the WD apparatus.
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Old 06-30-2023, 01:23 PM   #4
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Brooklyn , New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjshier View Post
Is it possible your "Drive" and Steer" are reversed? I would not expect the steer axle to increase with the trailer hitched...
Youre both right! Thought itd be easier to type than taking photos and I was wrong. Heres the fixed version:

Truck Only
Steer: 5000
Drive: 3340
Gross: 8340

0
Steer: 4460
Drive: 5020
Trailer: 5480
Gross: 14960

2.5
Steer: 4580
Drive: 4860
Trailer: 5540
Gross: 14980

4"
Steer: 4680
Drive: 4720
Trailer: 5560
Gross: 14960
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Old 07-13-2023, 12:26 PM   #5
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1981 25' Excella II
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Jul 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mixolydian12 View Post
Youre both right! Thought itd be easier to type than taking photos and I was wrong. Heres the fixed version:

Truck Only
Steer: 5000
Drive: 3340
Gross: 8340

0
Steer: 4460
Drive: 5020
Trailer: 5480
Gross: 14960

2.5
Steer: 4580
Drive: 4860
Trailer: 5540
Gross: 14980

4"
Steer: 4680
Drive: 4720
Trailer: 5560
Gross: 14960
Hi. A very accurate way to determine how the weight is being distributed. Using 2 pieces of masking tape about 6" long. Place each piece vertically, one on the front bumper and one on the back, at around the same height. Pick a measurement that will be within both tapes, say 28", and mark it.

Now it is trial and error. If your WD setup has chains, then adjust the links while the trailer is raised.
What you are looking for is for both the front and the back measurements to be just below 28". Below by essentially the distance.
At this point, 2/3 of the Tongue Weight has been distributed on the TV. I know some don't see this. My custom built receiver actually takes the 2" receiver all the way to the suspension cradle so the torque of the WD has a stronger and longer fulcrum to transfer the weight.

So that's my 2 cents worth. This works. 53 years means something.
Cheers, Paul
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Old 07-16-2023, 08:02 AM   #6
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If you dont over load your camper with things you dont need, heavy things mainly like your dumbell set, in the front, and distribute things evenly and dont hoard supplies, theres no need to weigh your truck/trailer, as you've just proven to everyone on here. Your common sense loading and vehicle/trailer combination by default means its fine.

I giggle whenever I see the term 'porposing' on these forums. Your WD hitch is a spring. It's designed to do this. If its too rigid, your beating up your camper. If its too 'springy' you need new rear truck struts installed ASAP. If it did not 'give' you couldn't drive into a gas station with an incline.

Aka its normal and cushions your vehicle as it travels. Completely normal suspension travel. Extremes either way, should be addressed though.
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Old 07-17-2023, 03:32 AM   #7
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Absolutely!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JJTX View Post
If you dont over load your camper with things you dont need, heavy things mainly like your dumbell set, in the front, and distribute things evenly and dont hoard supplies, theres no need to weigh your truck/trailer, as you've just proven to everyone on here. Your common sense loading and vehicle/trailer combination by default means its fine.

I giggle whenever I see the term 'porposing' on these forums. Your WD hitch is a spring. It's designed to do this. If its too rigid, your beating up your camper. If its too 'springy' you need new rear truck struts installed ASAP. If it did not 'give' you couldn't drive into a gas station with an incline.

Aka its normal and cushions your vehicle as it travels. Completely normal suspension travel. Extremes either way, should be addressed though.
Thank you. Well said. I agree that we should always avoid extremes. I like the connection you made to suspension and the "give" that is required.

Cheers, Paul
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Old 07-17-2023, 08:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJTX View Post
If you dont over load your camper with things you dont need, heavy things mainly like your dumbell set, in the front, and distribute things evenly and dont hoard supplies, theres no need to weigh your truck/trailer, as you've just proven to everyone on here. Your common sense loading and vehicle/trailer combination by default means its fine.

I giggle whenever I see the term 'porposing' on these forums. Your WD hitch is a spring. It's designed to do this. If its too rigid, your beating up your camper. If its too 'springy' you need new rear truck struts installed ASAP. If it did not 'give' you couldn't drive into a gas station with an incline.

Aka its normal and cushions your vehicle as it travels. Completely normal suspension travel. Extremes either way, should be addressed though.
Couldn't agree more. I feel that many use, and apply, the term porpousing incorrectly. Porpousing is a condition where the "see sawing", or bucking becomes cyclical with the frequency of road surface undulations (expansion joints, etc) and usually increases in amplitude at a given speed. IMO, the feel of the combination should be somewhat like driving a loaded TV solo with healthy shocks. Over bumps....down, up, back down, up and settle. That is not porpousing. Any less = too much wd. Any more = not enough wd.

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Old 07-17-2023, 09:41 AM   #9
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I know nothing about a ProPride, but I use very little tension on my Blu Ox springs, just enough to insure I have sway protection. Your 3/4 ram will handle the 25FB very well.
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Old 07-17-2023, 07:35 PM   #10
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One thing doesn't show up very much in these discussions is the impact to night driving. Too little WD means the front end of the tow vehicle is elevated, even if your tow vehicle can handle that weight, and that results in your headlight beam being much higher in the eyes of oncoming traffic. I get folks flashing at me often, even when I don't have my trailer attached, because my truck sits so high totally unloaded, so when I add my trailer, I try to be sure to apply enough WD transfer to minimize that headlight impact. I think I am in the minority here in that I do a fair amount of driving after dark, but the impact is real. If you only tow in daylight, this is probably N/A but if you tow at night, be aware you can cause a hazardous condition, or at the very least a nuisance distraction, to oncoming traffic with headlight glare. Please be considerate of others in these cases.
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Old 07-17-2023, 08:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamRider View Post
I know nothing about a ProPride, but I use very little tension on my Blu Ox springs, just enough to insure I have sway protection. Your 3/4 ram will handle the 25FB very well.

Same here (w/ 1 Ton Ram SRW & 27FBQ).
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Old 07-20-2023, 04:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1StreamDream View Post
One thing doesn't show up very much in these discussions is the impact to night driving. Too little WD means the front end of the tow vehicle is elevated, even if your tow vehicle can handle that weight, and that results in your headlight beam being much higher in the eyes of oncoming traffic. I get folks flashing at me often, even when I don't have my trailer attached, because my truck sits so high totally unloaded, so when I add my trailer, I try to be sure to apply enough WD transfer to minimize that headlight impact. I think I am in the minority here in that I do a fair amount of driving after dark, but the impact is real. If you only tow in daylight, this is probably N/A but if you tow at night, be aware you can cause a hazardous condition, or at the very least a nuisance distraction, to oncoming traffic with headlight glare. Please be considerate of others in these cases.


I think its a safe bet that immediately after applying a lift-kit to any truck, the headlights are not adjusted correctly anymore, in just about all cases. The way the law works in Texas is, the headlight, high intensity portion, cant strike the road more than 75 feet ahead. I believe that is still the standard. Then people add lifts, brighter and different color bulbs that are brighter at night, and its glaring. It's been proven vehicle 'inspections' in this state completely worthless. And I'm glad its being repealed for 2025!

Since nobody who lifts their truck actually re-adjusts their headlights, down, every one of them is glaring and an easy ticket for DPS. We wont talk about the jokers with 80 inch wheels and 2 foot lifts that makes the whole lighting system too high to actually pass an inspection. Somehow, it did... 72 inches is max headlight-height.

With all that said, I do all I can to never pull any trailer at night, especially my camper because I cant see far enough ahead to avoid objects.
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Old 07-27-2023, 06:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJTX View Post

I giggle whenever I see the term 'porposing' on these forums. Your WD hitch is a spring. It's designed to do this. If its too rigid, your beating up your camper. If its too 'springy' you need new rear truck struts installed ASAP. If it did not 'give' you couldn't drive into a gas station with an incline.

Aka its normal and cushions your vehicle as it travels. Completely normal suspension travel. Extremes either way, should be addressed though.

This is really why I started this thread. Basically, to try to find out if there is an actual mathematical point at which point I've made the WD hitch too rigid. Since I have the jacks set very low and am not moving a ton of weight, my assumption is that I'm nowhere near that point.


Thanks for all the input!
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Old 07-28-2023, 02:20 PM   #14
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Florence , Kentucky
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Like dznf0g description as it really sums things up with porposing and WD.
We also run with a ProPride towing our 27FBT Globetrotter. Without a full tank of fresh water we're 4300 on the steer axle, 4480 on the drive axle and sitting very level. Trailer on the CAT scale at 6440 which indicates the TV is handling quite a bit leaving plenty of room to spare on our F250. Total weight empty tanks is 15,220 according to CAT. Jacks are set just a bit under 2 inches. We recently have been hauling more water so we adjusted the pitch on the stinger to allow more room on the jacks. We're real careful on loading the AS so everything is where it should be.
Had a real scare with sway that almost resulted in a roll over due to dealer not installing a previous hitch incorrectly but that's another story. For now "Flipper" isn't an issue..."Neve understood the Porpose of that show BTW"
Safe travels
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