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Old 11-16-2015, 09:50 PM   #101
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Cummins is the best, less moving parts and more semis use that same 6 cylinder, just bigger sized than 8. More power and torque and just quality and less time in the shop
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:09 PM   #102
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My 2013 gmc 3/4-t is a dream to drive; since it is 4wd it requires the extra step getting in (the Little Woman has her own entry gymnastics that quite amuse) but otherwise it's the perfect haul vehicle. I researched "longevity" and GMC scored favorably overall. I previously had a 2002 F-150 that was trouble free, but was under powered when we upgraded to current AS. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:31 PM   #103
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My cousin owns Cummins and it is a very good diesel.
The US Army just picked the Duramax for its next Hummer replacement. That says quite a bit.
Got info on this? A link please? Not trying to debate you but just want to get info on the Army's choice
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:16 AM   #104
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Got info on this? A link please? Not trying to debate you but just want to get info on the Army's choice
The army goes cheap, they did use the gm 6.5 diesel which wouldn't pull your hat off your head, also they have to use the one they bailed out....
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:35 AM   #105
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I don't think it is fair to say that the Army picked the Duramax. They picked Oshkosh, one of three builders that submitted bids. Oshkosh went with the Duramax for their bid. The Cummins six cylinder wasn't offered by any bidder; another bid used the four cylinder Cummins. Apparently it met the hp and performance requirements.

The specs for these engines will not be as per the consumer models. Expect the Duramax to be derated for durability. The outgoing Hummer GM diesel had something like 170 hp.

There would have been a lot of evaluation criteria beyond simply the factory that produced the engine.
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:46 PM   #106
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The 6.5 in the hummer wasn't the civilian version either.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:04 AM   #107
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I don't think it is fair to say that the Army picked the Duramax. They picked Oshkosh, one of three builders that submitted bids. Oshkosh went with the Duramax for their bid. The Cummins six cylinder wasn't offered by any bidder; another bid used the four cylinder Cummins. Apparently it met the hp and performance requirements.

The specs for these engines will not be as per the consumer models. Expect the Duramax to be derated for durability. The outgoing Hummer GM diesel had something like 170 hp.

There would have been a lot of evaluation criteria beyond simply the factory that produced the engine.
End of the day, this was a Gov't. bid contract; low bidder typically wins these unless no one else can meet the specification and Gov't. contracts can justify their choice. Otherwise, protests on the order from competitors would be the case.
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:47 AM   #108
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Not any more.

Very often these days the government "specifications" are tailored with a "winner" in mind.

Make no mistake, we are living in an era of unparalleled American cronyism.


Brevi tempore!
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:51 PM   #109
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Not any more.

Very often these days the government "specifications" are tailored with a "winner" in mind.

Make no mistake, we are living in an era of unparalleled American cronyism.


Brevi tempore!
Hence Ford's " military grade"


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Old 11-20-2015, 08:38 AM   #110
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Not any more.

Very often these days the government "specifications" are tailored with a "winner" in mind.

Make no mistake, we are living in an era of unparalleled American cronyism.


Brevi tempore!
Well, have to agree with you there also!
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Old 11-20-2015, 09:23 AM   #111
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Eisenhower said "Beware the military industrial complex."

The bought and paid for politicians will cut food to kids programs to feed a military that is getting more bloated all the time and wastes money like there is no tomorrow - spending on the next gee whiz weapon system when the last one has yet to work with high cost over runs is nuts in my mind.

So choosing the next trunk company with carefully defined criteria that only fits one outfit is nothing new. No bid contracts come to mind in the not to distant past....

I prefer the inherent smoothness of a straight 6 to a V8 any day of the week.
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Old 11-20-2015, 10:20 AM   #112
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Duramax or Cummings Diesel?

The disease of cronyism and promotion of "special interests" has spread to all facets of government, unfortunately.

The responsibility for this ultimately rests on politicians and officials, no corrupt officials, no corruption.


Brevi tempore!
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:50 PM   #113
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Thank you all!
Decision has been made!
RAM 2015 Laramie cummins diesel

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Old 11-25-2015, 09:44 PM   #114
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That is just a teaser picture - need more pics!
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Old 11-26-2015, 05:23 AM   #115
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David, congratulations on getting the Big C!
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Old 11-26-2015, 07:21 AM   #116
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As long as we are showing photos, this is my new 2015 Ram 2500, CTD, Crew Cab, Big Horn with 20" rim and ARE Series Z shell.

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Old 11-26-2015, 02:33 PM   #117
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Duramax or Cummings Diesel?

Brand new to Airstreams, brand new to TVs.



After SWMBO decided on her trailer (27 FB FC) I started researching TVs here on the forum and elsewhere. After settling on a 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel, we went truck shopping.



We looked briefly at Fords, as well as Chevy/GMC. Neither one really suited us in the interior.



Both son and fellow-grampa have Ram trucks, so we test drove a 2500 with the Cummins diesel. We were very impressed.



We received our 2016 Ram 2500 Laramie Crew Cab, ordered 17 August, last week. We drove it to Colonial Airstream in Lakewood NJ from Tampa, picking up the AS on Monday morning this week. We had purchased the Pro Pride 3P hitch from Sean at PP, and had it sent to Colonial ahead of time.



After a stay at Cherry Hill RV park in DC, we went two days home, overnighting in Savannah.



We averaged about 22 mpg unladen going up from Tampa, and 14 mpg towing at 65-68 on the trip down. The Cummins diesel pulls like a train; it is true what they say, it is 'hard to tell' you are pulling a trailer.



We set up the integrated trailer brake system for Light Electric, with Gain set to 5.0. We use tow/haul, mode and always set the exhaust brake to the 'smart' setting.



I liked the fact the truck recognized the trailer was attached and set to tow mode automatically. I did have to select tow/haul mode at each engine.



The diesel exhaust brake is extremely effective. Getting off the throttle brings a welcome retardation from the exhaust; it works very well.



I am going to use the procedure in the Ram manual to calibrate the Gain setting. I can tell the trailer brakes engage when I squeeze the manual trailer brake switch on the truck console.



The truck, hitch and trailer worked very well together, with no noticeable sway. Bill at Colonial set me up at 5 1/2" jack barrel height over plate on the PP WD bars. I added a couple turns to the adjustment bars on day two to dial out some slight (very slight) perceived porpoising after talking with Sean via email.



Overall I am extremely pleased with the truck so far.

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Old 11-26-2015, 03:26 PM   #118
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I'm sure you'll be very happy with your combination. We towed with an '06 Dodge
w/ Cummins. Pulled like a well trained work horse and wanted more. We traded the Dodge in over the summer and got a 2015 Ford F350 with the 6.7 diesel. Of course the new trucks have come a long way since '06 with the creature comforts. I do like the Ford but other than being new and nice I really don't think it's any better at pulling our trailer than the Dodge was. They are both great for the job and although I do like the Ford I had no complaints with the Dodge. Never had the GM product to compare but they seem to be well liked and do the job well too.

Enjoy your new truck. See ya on the road sometime.
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Old 11-26-2015, 04:38 PM   #119
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NICE TRUCK!

One word of warning........

The new modern diesels are not like my 5.9L Isuzu turbo diesel with mechanical everything. Once mine starts up, the only way to stop it is to run it out of fuel (all old style diesels have fuel shutoff).

The new diesels are very complicated and rely on all sensors and management systems to be in tip top shape. Ignore that check engine light at your peril, as it will lead to a very expensive failure.

I have a motto with modern complex vehicles.....Fluids are cheap. Change that oil before the service management system tells you too (7500 kms, 5000 kms if towing. Your turbo needs good clean oil to work properly, making sure that any inline oil filters just before the turbo are also changed on a regular basis. Dump transmission fluid at least every 50,000 kms if not 25,000. Compress the brake callipers with the bleeder open to remove brake fluid in the calliper twice a year along with lubricating sliders, with a complete brake fluid flush every three years. I do a coolant replacement every 75,000 kms with a new thermostat. I also undercoat my vehicle with a wax based undercoating that protects brake lines, fuel lines and rustproofs the vehicle.

If you maintain your vehicle like this (or something like this) the engine will last longer, the transmission will last longer and your brake callipers will last longer. Your resale value will increase and the chances of a surprise on the road will be decreased.

Good luck on the new rig and remember, new fluids are cheap insurance.

Cheers
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Old 11-26-2015, 09:00 PM   #120
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@llando 88
I bought an FC 27 from Colonial, which I picked last May. Also with a Pro Pride. Colonial used the same setting on the tension bars for me that they used for you, even though I have a GMC 1500 with max trailer tow package. Like you, I dialed in another 1/8 inch to reduce porpoising. Having now completed a cross-country trip (DC to LA in a month), I'm satisfied with that setting. FWIW, a setting of 7 on the trailer brake gain seems to work well. The PP hitch works as advertised but it has its idiosyncrasies. One is that you have to have the hitch reasonably straight to drop the front trailer stand; otherwise one of the tension bars may be in the way. You can loosen the bar and sometimes move it out of the way. Before disconnecting the TV, be sure and loosen both bars until they swing, and (in my truck's case) have the hitch 11 inches off the ground. Likewise, when hooking up, be sure you have the hitch at the proper height (because you may have moved it to level the trailer). Thanks to the rear view camera, this is now a 1-person job 90% of the time. The other 10% happens when the ground is unlevel side-to-side and I'm trying to hitch to a levelled trailer. Then, I need my wife to put pressure on the appropriate spring bar to tilt the hitch to match the tilt of the TV. We've camped at lots of national and state park campgrounds; many of their sites are seriously unlevel, laterally or transversely. Finally, I urge you not to avoid back-in sites. Many of the "pull-throughs" at national and state parks are curved loops off the main road. That's a difficult situation for our PP hitch to handle. Backing a trailer is not a big deal once you've had some practice; you just need a spotter to see that you don't run into things.
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