DirectLink Brake Controller by Tuson

[switz]

Has anyone used the Tuson DirectLink controller that plugs into the OBDII port on the truck? It reads the braking and engine information to determine the correct power to send to the trailer brakes (either drum or disc).

How was the braking experience?

The unit is designed and built overseas (so what is new there?).

[kdinnar]

We purchased a 23 FB last year and used the DirectLink controller for the two trips we made with that trailer. It attached directly to our Jeep Grand Cherokee. We drove about 1500 miles with it and it worked great. You can leave the main unit installed under the dash and only attach the handheld controller when trailering. I used the optional suction cup mount to the windshield and could see the brake readout at all times. This part looks a lot like cb mike.
Hookup was easy and it worked great. The display is nice too.
This year we traded both the trailer and tv up to a 25 FB and Ram 2500 Diesel which has it's own brake controller, so the DirectLink now sits in the basement.

[slowmover]

A thread on here by MexRay in re the DIRECLINK [sp] controller. On my list as the one to have.

[HowieE]

How about a link to that tread?

[slowmover]

From that sub-forum (BRAKES & BRAKE CONTROLLERS)

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ler-86877.html

[switz]

I just posted my need for a braking solution at the end of the thread captioned above (#105). I have a DirecLink NE ready to install when I return stateside. Thus the request for current experiences.

[dznf0g]

It is the best controller I have ever owned.

Sent from my XT907 using Airstream Forums mobile app

[BAB]

I used it when I had my 2012 Infinity QX56...and it worked wonderfully well. Now have a 2014 Ram 2500 and it has an integral controller. BTW, I noticed they were selling the DirecLink in the A/S store at JC.

[switz]

Titan makes two models of their disc brake controller system (SD & RF [wireless]) that I was told by one of their technicians are incompatible with the Dodge factory installed brake controller (and some other vehicle brands as well). Personal experience has verified that incompatibility with our 2012 Dodge brake controller coupled to the BrakeRite II SD with extremely erratic brake operation no matter what settings are tried.

Supposedly, the original Titan BrakeRite EHB model would operate properly with the Dodge factory brake controller.

Both of our trailers had the Airstream factory drum brakes in common with the two models of Hensley designed hitch. Having "enjoyed" the Hensley bump on the 25FB using the Hensley hitch (as may others have reported) and on the Classic with the ProPride hitch, the common element is the Dodge factory brake controller.

Thus the search for a suitable alternative with the least amount of rework involved on the trailer after the disc brake installation. To remove the current Titan pump unit and separate control module requires removal of the propane tanks, ProPride jack stands, the Lifeline batteries and the battery box.

I selected the DirecLink based upon the future capability to move to an ABS brake system and it was not just a motion sensor based system. My backup brake controller pump option to replace the existing Titan system would be the Tuson ACT1600 pump and then migration to ABS would be relatively easy, but expensive due to completely different disc brake assemblies on each axle and individual brake lines to each wheel from the control module.

The original battery box is the home for the current Titan SD system's two parts and there would be more than enough space to swap out the Titan equipment for both the Tuson brake pump and the Tuson ABS device in the future.

[Secguru]

I have used the DirecLink brake controller since 2011 on three different trailers. I am very happy with the brake controller.

It provides true proportional braking on standard electric drum brakes. That is if you just touch your truck brakes, your trailer brakes also just lightly brake, while if you press hard, the trailer brakes also brake hard. More importantly, the trailer brakes engage just slightly ahead of the truck brakes so that bumping never happens.

It's the best brake controller on the market in my opinion.

[switz]

Today the DirecLink NE was installed in our 2012 Ram 2500HD with an existing factory brake controller that was part of the towing package.

This is what we did:

1. A direct #10 wire from the truck battery positive through a 30 amp auto reset circuit breaker to the positive pin in the seven way receptacle in the back of the truck.

2. A direct #10 wire from the truck battery negative to the negative pin in the seven way receptacle in the back of the truck.

3. A direct #10 wire from the blue lead of the DirecLink 4 wire harness to the trailer brake pin in the in the seven way receptacle in the back of the truck.

4. Took the black and white wires of the DirecLink 4 wire harness directly to the truck battery terminals (they were long enough to reach without splicing) using a 30 amp auto reset circuit breaker as recommended on the positive lead.

5. Took the red lead of the DirecLink 4 wire harness directly to the truck brake light switch on the energized when the pedal is pressed side.

Connected the wires to the DirecLink controller in the order described in the instructions.

Turned on the the truck and hit the brake to awaken the DirecLink and it found the truck. No error code.

Cleaned up the loose wires and reinstalled the lower dash and took truck out to trailer and connected the seven wire plug from the trailer. No error codes thrown and brakes worked like they are supposed to do.

Will return the spare Tekonsha Prodigy P3 and cables since DirecLink works as advertised. There was no need for the specific Dodge interface cable and it would not have worked with the installed factory controller anyway.

The P3 and DirecLink could use the same Tekonsha part number cable for each specific vehicle. The 2010 to 20`12 Dodge models could have used the 3021-P adapter cable but was unnecessary for our installation.

The erratic trailer disc brake operation issue is cured!

[slowmover]

Thanks for description

[switz]

I forgot to mention that the factory wiring was not detached from the factory controller. The three wires mentioned above were cut at the rear of the truck, not under the dash.

The factory wire sizes at the plug were #14 for the trailer brake activation wire (blue) as were the +12Vdc and -12Vdc. That wire size is rated 15 amps in the national electric code. The signal wires were #16 which is rated 8 to 10 amps.

Four drum brakes can draw close to 18 amps and the hydraulic brake pump can draw over 25 amps. Thus our selection of #10 wire meant less voltage drop due to wire size and the capacity to carry the load without melting. Perhaps the cheaper, smaller wire used by the truck builders in their wire harness contribute to the some of the braking issues experienced by their customers.

The factory brake controller display still does it's start up display when I start the truck. All it's sensors are still attached wherever they may be in the run to the rear of the truck. There is just never a resistive load to clue it in there is a trailer attached, so it just sits there fat, dumb and happy awaiting a trailer.