Cat Scale help

[Edgemoore]

I recently purchased a 2025 AS Tradewind. On my first trip, as suggested by many I went to a cat scale and the results were:

Steer Axle Weight 3320
Drive axle weight 3860
Trailer axle weight 6240

My Ford F150 specs include:
Front Axle 3600 GAWR
Rear axle 3800 GAWR
GVWR is 7050 Lbs
Payload is 1729 per vehicle sticker

If I am correctly interpreting the Ford F150 trailer towing guide for my 3.5L eco boost which includes the tow package, the truck is capable of towing 13,200 Lbs.
Am I correct in that some of the overweight on the drive axle can be shifted to the trailer to stay within the vehicle towing requirements?

What am I not considering?

Thanks for your help.

[Bill M.]

You can shift more weight to the front TV axle from the rear TV axle by adjusting the hitch.

[kb0zke]

You should be using a weight distributing hitch. That will, indeed, move some of the weight around to the steer axle and back to the trailer axles. Of course, the hitch assembly, itself, adds some weight, so it isn't just moving a few hundred pounds from here to there.


You didn't say what your trailer weighs, but it might be possible to move some weight from the front of the trailer to the rear. Keep in mind, though, that you want 10-15% of the trailer's weight on the hitch. If you have a trailer that weighs 7000 pounds, for example, 700-1000 pounds should be on the hitch, and the rest on the axles.

[ROBERT CROSS]

You are lacking the TV alone weight loaded for camping.

That front axle weight is what you're basing the WD setting on.
Vehicle requirements vary.
Some, (ours) state 100% return, newer TV's may have a 50% return to the steering axle limit.

Bob
🇺🇸

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by Edgemoore

I recently purchased a 2025 AS Tradewind. On my first trip, as suggested by many I went to a cat scale and the results were:

Steer Axle Weight 3320
Drive axle weight 3860
Trailer axle weight 6240

My Ford F150 specs include:
Front Axle 3600 GAWR
Rear axle 3800 GAWR
GVWR is 7050 Lbs
Payload is 1729 per vehicle sticker

If I am correctly interpreting the Ford F150 trailer towing guide for my 3.5L eco boost which includes the tow package, the truck is capable of towing 13,200 Lbs.
Am I correct in that some of the overweight on the drive axle can be shifted to the trailer to stay within the vehicle towing requirements?

What am I not considering?

Thanks for your help.

What is your hitch? And what is the tongue weight?

You can tow a lot with the ecoboot 3.5. I have the same engine, however you can't do it without a weight distribution hitch system installed.

I have a 2000LB payload and I still need the distribution hitch. Dead weight is limited to 700LB or less on most 1500 frames. Could you get this without the WDH system? Unlikely with heavy travel trailers.

Scales are decent information however the most important weight is how much weight you are putting on your hitch system.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by JJTX

What is your hitch? And what is the tongue weight?


Scales are decent information however the most important weight is how much weight you are putting on your hitch system.

Well, not quite. The most important thing is that the weight is being distributed properly.

Forward to the steering axle, back to the trailer axle/axles and the correct load on the TV receiver/hitch.

Us...
1200lb TW, on Sherline scale
860lb receiver weight with WD set
560 to the FA
160 to the AS
720 moved With 1000lb bars and Hensley Arrow hitch.

Sweet Streams.

Bob
🇺🇸

[silversled]

Hello,

Besides weights for axel rating, don’t forget there are weight ratings for tires as well. Weighing each axel on the trailer would be necessary for this.

AM

[waninae39]

you need to weigh twice

1st with WD and Sway on
2nd with no wd or sway

only then can you adjust how much WD you need
this topic has been discussed many times in this forum.

search the forum for what others recommend

[Edgemoore]

Thanks for all the responses.

It is a 25’ Tradewind.

Tongue weight according to AS is 725#

A Blue Ox WDH was installed when on the scale.

Installed new Michelin Defenders (10 ply)

I did have an E-Z up canopy and bedding in the front section of the trailer.

I really would like to dial in what more I can take camping and where to put i!

Thanks to all!

[LNBright]

Originally Posted by Edgemoore

Am I correct in that some of the overweight on the drive axle can be shifted to the trailer to stay within the vehicle towing requirements?

What am I not considering?

Thanks for your help.

You mentioned in your other post that you're using a BlueOx, I'm assuming a SwayPro. The bars come in different ratings, I'm assuming that they sold you the correct bars for your camper's weight.

Expect the actual tongue weight to be higher than the published value.

When hooking up your bars: After closing the latch on the ball, if you don't have it on one already, put a block under the trailer tongue jack, then raise the tongue fairly high, will then require less effort to put the bars' chains into place.

When you bought the trailer, and they set the BlueOx up, they should have told you that there's a certain number of links that you count, to pick the correct one to set onto the rotating latch system. (Then, you use the wrench to rotate the latch, on each side, then lower the trailer and remove the block from under the jack.) But if you count an additional link, you can tailor the amount of return weight you're distributing. The weight isn't just going to the trailer, but also to your front axle. I would try an additional link, but it may be that to get it dialed in, you end up going two additional links. You may try two, or even three, then find it's a link too far, and revert back a link.

Just make multiple passes at the CAT scale: and if they're not overrun, it would be a good idea to also get your F150 by itself, and the camper by itself, just to have those data points. But then, the key ones are, TV/camper combo with no distribution applied, then put the WD bars in-place, and see the change; then adjust by the link or two, and check again.

I like our BlueOx setup: the only thing I want to caution is to not try to put the WD bars on without having the tongue jack cranked up: if you have it too low, don't have it raised high enough, there's a lot more tension in the bars and they can snap, scarily so, even possibly flinging the wrench; but if you have it sufficiently raised up, there's almost no effort require to rotate the chain latches.

Good luck, and enjoy!

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by Edgemoore

Thanks for all the responses.

It is a 25’ Tradewind.

Tongue weight according to AS is 725#

AS is wrong 100% of the time. Its likely more like 900LB before you put anything in it.

You need to weigh the Tongue, to get that number.

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Well, not quite. The most important thing is that the weight is being distributed properly.

Forward to the steering axle, back to the trailer axle/axles and the correct load on the TV receiver/hitch.

Us...
1200lb TW, on Sherline scale
860lb receiver weight with WD set
560 to the FA
160 to the AS
720 moved With 1000lb bars and Hensley Arrow hitch.

Sweet Streams.

Bob
🇺🇸

When most people load their camper, its probably at Gross, or close to it. The TW is the best, and easiest way to estimate the rest of the camper weight on a level surface. If your weight there is not excessive, the rest of it is probably not important if your tow-VEHICLE is not close to its max rating with an empty camper, by default. The load you put in the camper is rarely enough to be a problem. If you are using a tow vehicle that is not a good tow vehicle, you might want to weigh up everything.

Just from what we have seen people post on this forum proves my point because I have seen very few that are over loaded. In fact I dont remember seeing many campers over gross at all. Its more about the tow vehicle. But thats easy to 'see' when your truck is squatting and by seeing 25 foot campers being towed by a tow vehicle thats too small to start with.

Thats why I say, first, measure the TW. If its on the lower end, the camper is not over loaded.

[SVTRIDE]

Also, there is most likely a sticker like this on your trucks hitch, near the draw bar receiver hole. Get to know it.

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by SVTRIDE

Also, there is most likely a sticker like this on your trucks hitch, near the draw bar receiver hole. Get to know it.

I assume this is your 3500 frame sticker?

This is one of the trucks that does NOT require WD-Hitch use because of the 3500 frame. As the TW rating is same same.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by JJTX

When most people load their camper, its probably at Gross, or close to it. The TW is the best, and easiest way to estimate the rest of the camper weight on a level surface. If your weight there is not excessive, the rest of it is probably not important if your tow-VEHICLE is not close to its max rating with an empty camper, by default. The load you put in the camper is rarely enough to be a problem. If you are using a tow vehicle that is not a good tow vehicle, you might want to weigh up everything.

Just from what we have seen people post on this forum proves my point because I have seen very few that are over loaded. In fact I dont remember seeing many campers over gross at all. Its more about the tow vehicle. But thats easy to 'see' when your truck is squatting and by seeing 25 foot campers being towed by a tow vehicle thats too small to start with.

Thats why I say, first, measure the TW. If its on the lower end, the camper is not over loaded.

You may estimate, I don't. Actual weights rule.
Everyone is free to set up their trailer as they wish.

We have been Streaming for 40+ years, and found it best NOT to estimate our set-up

To each their own...

“Remember, it’s wiser to ponder all things with diligent suspicion than follow with blind assumption."
RLC

Bob
🇺🇸

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

You may estimate, I don't. Actual weights rule.
Everyone is free to set up their trailer as they wish.

We have been Streaming for 40+ years, and found it best NOT to estimate our set-up

To each their own...

“Remember, it’s wiser to ponder all things with diligent suspicion than follow with blind assumption."
RLC

Bob
����

Sure. But so far weighing the camper and truck has not amounted to much. Minor adjustments for those who want to be perfect. Or for those who are over-packing with the kitchen sink full timers? I get it. Otherwise its not much use.

[SVTRIDE]

Originally Posted by JJTX

I assume this is your 3500 frame sticker?

This is one of the trucks that does NOT require WD-Hitch use because of the 3500 frame. As the TW rating is same same.

Yes, 350 truck.
I just wanted to point out what the Ford label would look like and its location and remove all doubt on ratings. Owners manuals (or Ford towing manual) can be written for many variations of a model and perhaps confusing. Much like the door jam sticker, just makes it clearer.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by JJTX

Sure. But so far weighing the camper and truck has not amounted to much. Minor adjustments for those who want to be perfect. Or for those who are over-packing with the kitchen sink full timers? I get it. Otherwise its not much use.

That is your're OPINION.

For many here, a balanced, safe rig is VERY important.

Bob

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by SVTRIDE

Yes, 350 truck.
I just wanted to point out what the Ford label would look like and its location and remove all doubt on ratings. Owners manuals (or Ford towing manual) can be written for many variations of a model and perhaps confusing. Much like the door jam sticker, just makes it clearer.

Right, but the rear hitch sticker is usually most accurate.

[djb75]

Even more important (and easier to forget) is also raising the hitch before you try to take the chains off. If you get part way off with full tension applied, it can rip the wrench out of your hands and fling it at a goodly force.