Can I tow without weight distribution in these limited circumstances?

[GOUSC]

I have a question as to whether I can tow safely short distances on non-public roads without using weight distribution. For example, moving my RV on my property or from campsite to campsite within the same campground. All distances are less than 1 mile.

I have a 2018 Globetrotter. Max trailer weight loaded of 7,600 lbs and tongue weight estimated to be around 1,000. My TV is a 2018 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax. The confusion for me is the weight info on the hitch sticker and the weight info on the VIN lookup for my vehicle. The sticker on the hitch indicates tongue weight of 1,500 and max trailer weight of 13,000 with no mention of weight distribution, see picture.

The VIN lookup states 500 lbs Dead Weight Hitch – Max Tongue weight and 5,000 lbs Dead Weight Hitch. It then states 1,300 lbs max tongue weight and 13,000 max trailer weight with weight distribution.

I’m thinking the stamp on the hitch is what I go by and would be able to tow these short distances without weight distribution but looking for input / confirmation from the forum.

[AFTER TAXES]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

I have a question as to whether I can tow safely short distances on non-public roads without using weight distribution. For example, moving my RV on my property or from campsite to campsite within the same campground. All distances are less than 1 mile.

I have a 2018 Globetrotter. Max trailer weight loaded of 7,600 lbs and tongue weight estimated to be around 1,000. My TV is a 2018 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax. The confusion for me is the weight info on the hitch sticker and the weight info on the VIN lookup for my vehicle. The sticker on the hitch indicates tongue weight of 1,500 and max trailer weight of 13,000 with no mention of weight distribution, see picture.

The VIN lookup states 500 lbs Dead Weight Hitch – Max Tongue weight and 5,000 lbs Dead Weight Hitch. It then states 1,300 lbs max tongue weight and 13,000 max trailer weight with weight distribution.

I’m thinking the stamp on the hitch is what I go by and would be able to tow these short distances without weight distribution but looking for input / confirmation from the forum.

only a couple miles......totally fine
be safe

[HowieE]

Yes you can.

You should be able to tow, even on public roads, as long as you are not driving at highway speeds. Around town at less than 40 mph you will not set up a sway condition and not build tire temperatures that would cause a failure.

[Adventure.AS]

The only issue might be some sag in the rear of the tow vehicle bringing the hitch and more importantly the tongue jack close to the ground where it could bottom out on unlevelled ground. I installed rear airbags to help lift the rear of the TV. I do not use the airbags for highway, but only for moving the trailer to the dump station in the campground.

[featherbedder]

I have 2000 chev 2500 6.0 engine set up for trailer hauling and 1976 31 ft AS. I do this quite freq. all around farm and 4acre yard plus some very short road haul only on ball, no problems. IMO go for it, you have enough vehicle. I get about 1&1/2 sag but springs are not down on over load springs

[GOUSC]

Originally Posted by Adventure.AS

The only issue might be some sag in the rear of the tow vehicle bringing the hitch and more importantly the tongue jack close to the ground where it could bottom out on unlevelled ground. I installed rear airbags to help lift the rear of the TV. I do not use the airbags for highway, but only for moving the trailer to the dump station in the campground.

There will be no problem with this. The rear axle is rated to hold plenty more so no sagging in the rear. In addition, the distance from the ground to the front wheel well with and w/o weight distribution is w/n 1/2" of each other as the chasis is a beast and tows the Globetrotter with no problem. The weight distribution hitch is more for sway control than weight distribution for this set up.

[JacksonPayne]

What a coincidence, I have the same trailer and same TV.
Have you had any problems with your new Globetrotter,specifically with the ceiling locker above the galley? Mine fell down and caused severe damage resulting in a costly trip back to JC for repairs. There was a maintenance bulletin issued but NO RECALL. I suggest you contact them to see if yours was assembled the same INFERIOR way.

[ChuckFeldt]

Absolutely, Around town, campground, local tow, you will be fine. The hitch label is correct. Weight wise, your hitch and the truck are easily capable of towing that trailer without W/D. I have a 2014/FB27 with near identical specs and the 2015 Chevy version of your truck. Using W/D I only use 2 links of tension to stabilize, per scale I still have 100# more weight on the front axle than rear. Always us the W/D for highway tow speeds.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

I have a question as to whether I can tow safely short distances on non-public roads without using weight distribution. For example, moving my RV on my property or from campsite to campsite within the same campground. All distances are less than 1 mile.

I have a 2018 Globetrotter. Max trailer weight loaded of 7,600 lbs and tongue weight estimated to be around 1,000. My TV is a 2018 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax. The confusion for me is the weight info on the hitch sticker and the weight info on the VIN lookup for my vehicle. The sticker on the hitch indicates tongue weight of 1,500 and max trailer weight of 13,000 with no mention of weight distribution, see picture.

The VIN lookup states 500 lbs Dead Weight Hitch – Max Tongue weight and 5,000 lbs Dead Weight Hitch. It then states 1,300 lbs max tongue weight and 13,000 max trailer weight with weight distribution.

I’m thinking the stamp on the hitch is what I go by and would be able to tow these short distances without weight distribution but looking for input / confirmation from the forum.

I have and still do many times. Never on Interstates or Expressways. I do it on local roads and never over 60 mph. I am not encouraging you to do it just noting what I do since that is what your question was.
Air Stream supposed to be the best riding most stable trailer out there. Reading these threads here one would think they are rolling over and swaying into oblivion wholesale everyday.

[Safetyfirst]

I picked up a new 30 Classic and towed it home on the ball only. About 90 miles, mostly interstate. Zero problem. Not saying you should but locally I do it regularly.

[GOUSC]

Originally Posted by JacksonPayne

What a coincidence, I have the same trailer and same TV.
Have you had any problems with your new Globetrotter,specifically with the ceiling locker above the galley? Mine fell down and caused severe damage resulting in a costly trip back to JC for repairs. There was a maintenance bulletin issued but NO RECALL. I suggest you contact them to see if yours was assembled the same INFERIOR way.

Thanks for the update. I have not had that issue but I will call and check on it. Ours was delivered in early April and we picked it up 4/25. We have been fortunate and not had anything much wrong with our Globetrotter to date.

May I say you have excellent taste in RV's and TV's!

[paulwhite]

Hi GOUSC; I would say the short answer is; when you lower the trailer hitch onto the ball, you will know if its too much direct weight to tow even a short distance; I had a 31' AS ; it was 7200 lbs. dry weight; pulled by a 2500 High Sierra 3/4 ton Suburban; I always put the torsion bars on it; when I pulled the trailer with my 1972 Imperial LeBaron, which weighed in at 6500lbs. I could move it around to park it, but I had the springs beefed up;

[urnmor]

I believe the general consensus it that it is not a problem if the distance is short, however, one must be careful that the distances don't get longer over time. Personally I don't tow without the full hook-up. Lets face it it only takes an extra five minutes or so to put them in place. To me that minor inconvenience is worth the safety they add on open roads or even back dirt roads.

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

I have a question as to whether I can tow safely short distances on non-public roads without using weight distribution. For example, moving my RV on my property or from campsite to campsite within the same campground. All distances are less than 1 mile.

I have a 2018 Globetrotter. Max trailer weight loaded of 7,600 lbs and tongue weight estimated to be around 1,000. My TV is a 2018 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax

The VIN lookup states 500 lbs Dead Weight Hitch – Max Tongue weight and 5,000 lbs Dead Weight Hitch. It then states 1,300 lbs max tongue weight and 13,000 max trailer weight with weight distribution.

Short ans. YES.
Your 3/4 ton truck has the suspension to handle your Airstream just fine. The hitch receiver numbers are the ones for you to use (wt. dist. Not included there). Be sure you buy a hitch bar and ball that will handle the weight. The normal “hollow square tube bar” is 500 tongue/ 5000 tow. If you go to a trailer sales, they will have a solid steel 2 inch tow bar that is rated 2000/20,000 and will take a 2 5/16 ball with the larger shaft to match. When towing you will experience more rear bounce “if I can call it that” when you tow over wavy roads. But, I find that if little notice and my rig is a 30 Flying Cloud pulled by a 2500 Chevy Duramax. Have at it. Just go slower/more carfully. .

[rmkrum]

As a rather Old Phart, I tend to try to build safe habits when towing the Airstream, or doing anything else that has potential danger in it, like woodworking with power tools. My memory has never been what it "used to be", so I double-check every move. I have some rather weird-looking habits around sharp blades and powerful machinery, and it tends to look like a slow ballet at times. However, no major damage to my person or hardware so far...

While I agree with the idea that moving an Airstream short distances at low speeds without fully hooking up the hitch is generally not an issue, I find it better to do a full hook-up and follow the checklist to the letter.

Reason is that it trains the habit of doing it right each and every time. Doing a process correctly every time, especially a safety-related one, enhances safety. Just skipping a step, "Just this one time" for some reason, like not bothering putting the chocks in place and locked while unhitching for a "few moments" is a shortcut to disaster. Remember that Murphy is always lurking and waiting for you to screw up. Also keep in mind that, "Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong, (at the worst possible moment)" is the essence of Murphy's Law, and in many circles, Murphy is considered to be an optimist.

We won't talk about the last ime I was all hooked up to the Airstream in our front yard, released the TV brakes, and, for some strange reason, could NOT get the trailer to move--until dear daughter piped up with, "Dad, are you going to release the chocks???" Dumb move, and in front of witnesses. No foul, but real dumb...

[slowmover]

I’ve done it (or do it) and the reasonableness of above proscriptions are correct.

But habits are hard to break. In this case the variables multiply. So I limit myself to across the parking lot or campground. No public roads. Not even across a road. (That good habit thing). It’s not enough to justify my actions, IOW. (A Hensley is “always” hooked up; just tension bars. Doesn’t matter. It is, or it isn’t).

Really well-said rmkrum. Thanks.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by slowmover

I’ve done it (or do it) and the reasonableness of above proscriptions are correct.

But habits are hard to break. In this case the variables multiply. So I limit myself to across the parking lot or campground. No public roads. Not even across a road. (That good habit thing). It’s not enough to justify my actions, IOW. (A Hensley is “always” hooked up; just tension bars. Doesn’t matter. It is, or it isn’t).

Really well-said rmkrum. Thanks.

Thanks. Writing in too much detail is one of my marginally bad habits around here... but I seriously try to be clear and accurate.

The ProPride is the same, either connected or not connected.

But I go ahead and hook up breakaway cable, safety chains, umbilical, check all the lights, pull chocks and retract stabilizers, disconnect hoses and power cable, etc. every time. Keeps the backup checklist in my head updated. The three walkarounds include looking high, middle and low for issues. All this before I fire up and go. Doesn't take long, but sure avoids dumb moves...

[featherbedder]

Correction to prev. post only have 1/2 inch sag. instead of 1&1/2 but over 40 to 50 mph hook up bars for sway. I'm very wary of sway after rolling 30 AS because of of hitch failure do to faulty design that manf. reimbursed in full. The transporters of new trailers don't use wd and bars, and some go faster than I do at 65 70 mph w/full hook up.

[Wingman360]

I do exactly as you request without any problems at all... just consider distance from hitch, assembly to road even when navigating holes and ruts, and keep speeds low.

[brick1]

I tow my 2018 Serenity 28 (961lbs tongue weight) from my house to the storage yard (3 miles) without WD. F250 doesn’t even flinch.
I would not tow at highway speeds without WD/Sway.
brick