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Old 11-12-2020, 06:27 PM   #1
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CALLING ALLAirSafe AirBag Hitch Owners

I have towed our 25 ft FC with a F-250 and Equalizer 10,000 bars. I really have no sway and except for a neutral Ft tire weight with Bars on it tows well.


Can you Air Safe owners chip in your results


1: Did you you your existing sway bars with AirSafe


2: Do you tow without bars.


3 Any pictures of a set up would be nice to see,


4: How do you set up your system?



PM is OK but I would like some feedback. The Company is VERY lax on tech support. They just say we sell a lot to Airstream owners. I first saw one at Jackson Center a couple had it delivered overnight for a 33 and use no bars.
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Old 11-13-2020, 06:05 AM   #2
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You might also consider the Gen-Y torsion hitch. Much better company support and much lower cost. Works extremely well IMHO.
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Old 11-13-2020, 07:30 AM   #3
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I second Gen-Y. Very helpful and I'm happy with it. Works fine with the weight distribution.
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Old 11-13-2020, 07:49 AM   #4
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We have an Airsafe set up. We didn't get it because of sway, we got it because of bumpy roads. The hitch set up decouples the trailer from the truck so the road doesn't transfer the bumps back and forth. It works very well. We used our old hitch this fall a couple of times because my husband has been ill and didn't have the strength to lift the Airsafe, and I certainly don't. We missed the Airsafe: definitely a difference. And we use our old sway bars as normal.


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Old 11-13-2020, 08:32 AM   #5
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CALLING ALLAirSafe AirBag Hitch Owners

I have Gen-Y hitch that I was going to use with Curt WDH. I have hesitated because of weight.

The Gen-Y 10k is a beast - 40 lbs plus the Curt WDH head 40 lbs makes for a very heavy assembly. Plus it extends a foot behind the bumper requiring trailer chain extensions.

I also have an Gen-Y 10k non weight distribution adjustable ball hitch. Works well but no anti-sway.
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Old 11-13-2020, 09:13 AM   #6
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We have found the use of SumoSprings + our Reese Dual Cam WD/anti sway was very helpful for the types of "back" roads we travel. We Off-Road Boondock 95% of the time.
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Old 11-13-2020, 09:25 AM   #7
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I use an AirSafe with my Blue Ox. They don't provide the same function. The Blue Ox provides anti-sway & weight distribution. The AirSafe provides anti-"porposing" by damping the horizontal movement of the trailer tongue. Take a look at their Class V-VIII video at:
https://airsafehitches.com/videos/
That shows what happens, for example, when you drive over railroad tracks. Without the AirSafe, it quite bumpy. The AirSafe damps that motion, giving you a substantially smoother ride. "I wouldn't leave home without it."
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Old 11-13-2020, 09:36 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Life is a Highway View Post
I have towed our 25 ft FC with a F-250 and Equalizer 10,000 bars. I really have no sway and except for a neutral Ft tire weight with Bars on it tows well.


Can you Air Safe owners chip in your results


1: Did you you your existing sway bars with AirSafe


2: Do you tow without bars.


3 Any pictures of a set up would be nice to see,


4: How do you set up your system?



PM is OK but I would like some feedback. The Company is VERY lax on tech support. They just say we sell a lot to Airstream owners. I first saw one at Jackson Center a couple had it delivered overnight for a 33 and use no bars.
I am using an Air Hitch on a Ford F250 Super Duty Diesel towing 22ft vintage trailers, including a 1963 Bambi. The difference in towing feel and lack of trailer damage from the Ford's rough rear suspension is staggering. No popped rivets or separated cabinetry.
Question 1: Yes, with equalizer hitch
Question 2: At times, yes. Typically with bars.
Question 3: Can do, but will be a while.
Question 4: Put trailer on hitch without bars. Inflate the bag to where the link arms are parallel to the ground, then finish hitching up as usual. Nothing changes, really, except there is now a air bag between the receiver and the Trailers coupler.
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Old 11-13-2020, 09:47 AM   #9
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My Gen-Y doesn't require trailer chain extensions and I haven't heard of other people having to use them either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ETroup View Post
I have Gen-Y hitch that I was going to use with Curt WDH. I have hesitated because of weight.

The Gen-Y 10k is a beast - 40 lbs plus the Curt WDH head 40 lbs makes for a very heavy assembly. Plus it extends a foot behind the bumper requiring trailer chain extensions.

I also have an Gen-Y 10k non weight distribution adjustable ball hitch. Works well but no anti-sway.
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Old 11-13-2020, 09:52 AM   #10
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Guess I am missing the value here? I watched the video, I see the extra length and added weight, and the above comment on eliminating "porposing", but I don't have that issue with properly set up sway 1500 lb bars. I am already at 1100lbs tongue weight with my 28' FC. I have always been happy with BO SP hitches once set up properly; no issues with last 3 AS's. After reducing the PSI on my AS tires as recommended many years ago, it his eliminated popped rivets, broken hinges, etc.. We do a mix of highway, backroad, and "sometimes" bumpy Interstate (think: TX thru LA to FL). Not sure why I need this? AS has shocks; F250 has shocks..no obvious damage inside after 48K miles on the AS?
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Old 11-13-2020, 11:03 AM   #11
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AirSafe Hitch, Class VI.

When I bought them, there was a disclaimer that said if you use weight distribution, take 10% off the hitch capacity which I haven't seen on the site in a number of years now. Definitely smooths the connection, night and day.

I use the Reese Dual Cam system.
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Old 11-13-2020, 11:39 AM   #12
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Have Had Good Results With AirSafe

Our setup is a F250 SuperDuty 4x4 pulling a 2017 30ft Classic. When we first bought the trailer we used the setup provided by the dealer, a WD hitch with a drop shank to make up for the added height of the 4x4. I immediately noticed the "chucking" from the trailer riding over bumps, railroad tracks, etc. Our previous SOB was about 1/2 the weight of the AS and we towed that with a 2002 GMC 1/2 ton 4x2. Much smoother ride with the old truck/trailer.

I went with the AirSafe and noticed an immediate improvement in ride quality. No more chucking when the trailer yanks up on the hitch ball. Cabinets staying closed. No popped rivets. I had been warned about popped rivets by a long-time Airstreamer. Wanted to avoid that. It rides so smoothly now you don't even notice it back there.

I removed the drop-bar and ball from my old hitch and bolted it to the AirSafe. I still use the WD bars as well. The instructions I received from AirSafe specifically stated the AirSafe is not for weight distribution and if you needed the bars before, you'll still want them installed with the AirSafe.

Several thousand miles later, I'm still happy with everything about the AirSafe except the weight. It's heavy! But that's to be expected from a quality-built product.

My experience with their customer support was better than others. I got all my questions answered in one phone call prior to ordering.

As with nearly everything in RVing, YMMV.
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Old 11-13-2020, 12:35 PM   #13
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CALLING ALLAirSafe AirBag Hitch Owners

Quote:
Originally Posted by primepower View Post
My Gen-Y doesn't require trailer chain extensions and I haven't heard of other people having to use them either.


If I use Gen-Y ball hitch (no WD) then do not need chain extensions. However, the combination of Gen-Y for WDH and the Curt WDH pushes the hitch ball far enough to the rear that I need chain extensions.Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1131.JPG
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ID:	383174
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Old 11-13-2020, 12:40 PM   #14
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We use the Gen-Y torsion model that is designed to work with WD bars and most WD hitches. We like the Reese dual cam for our 25' FC and have tried others but prefer the Reese. The Gen-Y suspension hitch, correct tire pressure and Centramatics have given us the ride/towing combo we were looking for.
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Old 11-13-2020, 02:36 PM   #15
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I have an AirSafe hitch and use an Equal-i-zer WD hitch as well, and I use the 10,000 lb. bars. The trailer is a 2015 28' Flying Cloud RBT with one A/C. My tongue weight is about 980 lbs using a Sherline gauge when the trailer is loaded for camping, and the water tanks are about 1/3 full (all of them) and the propane tanks are both full. I just put AGM batteries in the trailer this summer, and that dropped my tongue weight about 20 lbs (difficult to quantify really with the graduations on the Sherline gauge). My tow vehicle is a RAM 3500 Cummins TurboDiesel Super Duty with a 2-1/2-inch receiver. The truck has a self-leveling feature which I'm not really fond of, but I haven't found a way to disable it, and I'm not sure it needs disabling.

I got very good support from the AirSafe reseller in Florida when purchasing my AirSafe hitch, and when I had to purchase a longer, and larger shank as well. All of my questions were answered and I am happy with my decision. Is it heavy? Yes. Does it add distance between the bumper and the trailer? Yes. But the difference in the ride was worth it.

Anyway, I was happy with the AirSafe hitch, but felt the rear of my truck was sagging a little with the front of the trailer down about 1-1/2 inches. I added a couple of washers to the Equal-i-zer set-up and that pretty much leveled-out the rig, but I noticed the ride was rougher. And, I think the trailer was getting bounced around. (I HAVE NOT been able to find the time to get to a CAT Scale and get some weights--very busy summer.) I checked all of my tire pressures, reduced the pressure in the rear tow vehicle tires about 5 psi when cold, and reduced the trailer tire pressure about 4 psi when cold (I have MAXXIS E-rated tires).

So, this summer I did have a couple of hours one afternoon in Rapid City and just happened to have my tools with me and I removed one washer from the Equal-i-zer. It has made quite an improvement in the ride quality of the truck and I think it was easier on the trailer and its contents as well. I drove the rig another eight hours to its winter parking spot and before putting it away I took some more measurements. Less than a half-inch change in the front wheel well measurements and virtually none in the rear wheel well measurements. With my not-so-naked eye (I wear glasses for just about everything these days) I still think the rear of the truck (when carrying two 2000W generators, and some folding chairs and a very small air compressor, the DW and our two Standard Poodles) sags a little more than I would like it to, and I also think the trailer is not as level as I'd like it to be. (The difference in the trailer rear bumper height after the washer removal was about half an inch, but my tanks were also virtually empty at the time--I had just a little, maybe about 6% by the perfectly calibrated and always 100% functional tank gauge. in the black water tank for final "rinsing" as I drove thirty miles back from the "quarter" car wash.)

Anyway, I'm happier now that I've removed one washer from the hitch set-up, but I'm reading--or at least I think I'm reading--that one should not use the weight distribution bars with an AirSafe hitch. Or maybe that was an old recommendation the manufacturer no longer makes? I'm not so sure I'm reading that correctly, or if I am, I would REALLY like to understand the reasoning (and logic) behind that admonition. Because I didn't get that from the reseller. I've never experienced sway--with or without the AirSafe hitch, on either of the tow vehicles I've had with this trailer.

I'm also curious about how people set up their hitches when the tow vehicle has self-leveling suspension.... I agonized a BUNCH over this, with a LOT of washer changes. My first tow vehicle didn't have it (a Toyota Tundra Premium Edition with towing package--but no factory trailer brake controller...???), and while I LOVED that truck it just didn't have the oomph I wanted for the up hill runs we make (we travel extensively in the Western United States, mostly Colorado, Wyoming, Utah and Montana) OR for the down hill sections. AND, I could NEVER get the transmission to stay in the gear I put it in (a Toyota tech told me later that the manufacturer thinks their software is superior to a human driver in all instances and so the transmission won't always stay in a particular gear if the software deems it shouldn't be in that gear), and I felt the engine was taking a beating because of the constant up-shifting and down-shifting especially on steep grades with lots of traffic--and I don't like to abuse my vehicles. So, with the DW's approval--and encouragement, actually--we switched to the RAM Cummins TurboDiesel and I'm probably not going back to gasoline any time soon. (I put a 55 gal Titan Tank and I can drive for 500+ miles without stopping for fuel.

So, should I be using the weight distribution bars?

And, how do people with self-leveling systems on their tow vehicles set up their weight distribution hitches?
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Old 11-13-2020, 03:21 PM   #16
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I’ve used the Air Safe hitch with my blue ox. This setup meets and exceeds all expectations. The Air Safe hitch has made my towing smoother and more relaxing. At end of the day, I’m not nearly as tired as I was before the Air Safe Hitch days.
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Old 11-13-2020, 03:42 PM   #17
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I have a AirSafe Class VI on my Classic

Here's photos of my AirSafe Class VI hitch.
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Old 11-13-2020, 04:00 PM   #18
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That must be the difference I'm using it with the blue ox system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ETroup View Post
If I use Gen-Y ball hitch (no WD) then do not need chain extensions. However, the combination of Gen-Y for WDH and the Curt WDH pushes the hitch ball far enough to the rear that I need chain extensions.Attachment 383174
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Old 11-13-2020, 04:11 PM   #19
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CALLING ALLAirSafe AirBag Hitch Owners

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnklJoe View Post
I have an AirSafe hitch and use an Equal-i-zer WD hitch as well, and I use the 10,000 lb. bars. The trailer is a 2015 28' Flying Cloud RBT with one A/C. My tongue weight is about 980 lbs using a Sherline gauge when the trailer is loaded for camping, and the water tanks are about 1/3 full (all of them) and the propane tanks are both full. I just put AGM batteries in the trailer this summer, and that dropped my tongue weight about 20 lbs (difficult to quantify really with the graduations on the Sherline gauge). My tow vehicle is a RAM 3500 Cummins TurboDiesel Super Duty with a 2-1/2-inch receiver. The truck has a self-leveling feature which I'm not really fond of, but I haven't found a way to disable it, and I'm not sure it needs disabling.



I got very good support from the AirSafe reseller in Florida when purchasing my AirSafe hitch, and when I had to purchase a longer, and larger shank as well. All of my questions were answered and I am happy with my decision. Is it heavy? Yes. Does it add distance between the bumper and the trailer? Yes. But the difference in the ride was worth it.



Anyway, I was happy with the AirSafe hitch, but felt the rear of my truck was sagging a little with the front of the trailer down about 1-1/2 inches. I added a couple of washers to the Equal-i-zer set-up and that pretty much leveled-out the rig, but I noticed the ride was rougher. And, I think the trailer was getting bounced around. (I HAVE NOT been able to find the time to get to a CAT Scale and get some weights--very busy summer.) I checked all of my tire pressures, reduced the pressure in the rear tow vehicle tires about 5 psi when cold, and reduced the trailer tire pressure about 4 psi when cold (I have MAXXIS E-rated tires).



So, this summer I did have a couple of hours one afternoon in Rapid City and just happened to have my tools with me and I removed one washer from the Equal-i-zer. It has made quite an improvement in the ride quality of the truck and I think it was easier on the trailer and its contents as well. I drove the rig another eight hours to its winter parking spot and before putting it away I took some more measurements. Less than a half-inch change in the front wheel well measurements and virtually none in the rear wheel well measurements. With my not-so-naked eye (I wear glasses for just about everything these days) I still think the rear of the truck (when carrying two 2000W generators, and some folding chairs and a very small air compressor, the DW and our two Standard Poodles) sags a little more than I would like it to, and I also think the trailer is not as level as I'd like it to be. (The difference in the trailer rear bumper height after the washer removal was about half an inch, but my tanks were also virtually empty at the time--I had just a little, maybe about 6% by the perfectly calibrated and always 100% functional tank gauge. in the black water tank for final "rinsing" as I drove thirty miles back from the "quarter" car wash.)



Anyway, I'm happier now that I've removed one washer from the hitch set-up, but I'm reading--or at least I think I'm reading--that one should not use the weight distribution bars with an AirSafe hitch. Or maybe that was an old recommendation the manufacturer no longer makes? I'm not so sure I'm reading that correctly, or if I am, I would REALLY like to understand the reasoning (and logic) behind that admonition. Because I didn't get that from the reseller. I've never experienced sway--with or without the AirSafe hitch, on either of the tow vehicles I've had with this trailer.



I'm also curious about how people set up their hitches when the tow vehicle has self-leveling suspension.... I agonized a BUNCH over this, with a LOT of washer changes. My first tow vehicle didn't have it (a Toyota Tundra Premium Edition with towing package--but no factory trailer brake controller...???), and while I LOVED that truck it just didn't have the oomph I wanted for the up hill runs we make (we travel extensively in the Western United States, mostly Colorado, Wyoming, Utah and Montana) OR for the down hill sections. AND, I could NEVER get the transmission to stay in the gear I put it in (a Toyota tech told me later that the manufacturer thinks their software is superior to a human driver in all instances and so the transmission won't always stay in a particular gear if the software deems it shouldn't be in that gear), and I felt the engine was taking a beating because of the constant up-shifting and down-shifting especially on steep grades with lots of traffic--and I don't like to abuse my vehicles. So, with the DW's approval--and encouragement, actually--we switched to the RAM Cummins TurboDiesel and I'm probably not going back to gasoline any time soon. (I put a 55 gal Titan Tank and I can drive for 500+ miles without stopping for fuel.



So, should I be using the weight distribution bars?



And, how do people with self-leveling systems on their tow vehicles set up their weight distribution hitches?



Experienced with both 2019 Ram 2500 Cummins with factory rear air suspension and 2020 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel with four corners Automatic Air Suspension System.

To setup WDH you need to set air suspension to desired height. On 2500 this is “Normal” or “Alt Ride Height” (a lowered ride height setting). On 1500 it is “Aero” or “Normal”. Then turn it off by putting it into “jack mode”. Otherwise the truck will correct any sag before you can adjust the tension in WDH torsion bars.

Follow the instructions for setting up the WD hitch measuring the differences in ride height at front and rear wheels and making sure trailer looks level. Remember when you so turn on the air suspension, the hitch will come back up to its level position even if the WDH did not fully remove any sag. Therefore, if the trailer is a little bit low in front it will become level when the air suspension turns on.

When you are satisfied, then turn on the air suspension. The truck will level out but will have a little less work to do because of the WDH.
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Old 11-14-2020, 09:45 AM   #20
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I've been using an AirSafe Class VI and Equalizer combination on my Ram 3500 and 27FB Classic for the last 4 years and 20,000 miles. Never a sway, good WD, and not a drawer open or pillow out of place. It makes the truck ride much nicer, as well. I highly recommend it.
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